Turbo Question

[takeaflyingleap]

I have decided to add a turbo. I was at the junk yard yesterday and found an 89 300Z turbo. The turbo is in excellent shape. My question is, does any one know if the 89 Z was a twin turbo. There was only one turbo left on the vehicle and I could not find a mounting location for a second turbo. The turbo that was on the vehicle looked very small and that is why I am asking if it is a twin turbo. I was looking at the Nissan turbo as I have heard that they are a very good design and spool up very fast (and I can get them cheap from the junk yard)

Thanks,

Neil

[Toysrme]

CGTS! ES Z50. That's right!

No that's the little T25. The pre-86's came with a t3 60/48.

I am not a 300z expert, but to the best of my knowledge, it went t3 48/60 in '84. Added coolant lines 85-86. (both 6.7psi) 87+ swapped to T25 @ 4psi.

On a 2vz-fe that would be an OK turbo to make 200-230bhp with. It'd be on the low end of what you would want to retain the stock fuel system with just some AFM tweaks & a fuel pressure bump.

Use the TB/EGR's coolant lines & route them to the turbo.

[takeaflyingleap]

So I could use that as a single turbo? It looked like a 2 1/2" intake and a 2" output. That's why I said that It looked quite small. The engine and turbo looked fresh, that's what got me excited. The body However, was totaled (rolled). I think that it is a replacement turbo. I'm not looking to make insane amounts of power... Yet. After I get the turbo I will pick your brain for the adjustments required. Today I'm adding an external transmission cooler and filter. More power = more heat. I'll pick up the turbo tomorrow ( I hid it in a Geo Metro just in case it was a good find ) I'll probably purchase an intercooler kit from eBay. Thanks for the info.

Neil

[Toysrme]

Eh. Sounds like a budget setup to me. I wouldn't go spending tons on an intercooler. Stock volvo coolers a ginormous for $30-50 & do better than many of the little $200 intercooler "kits".

The T25 should be ok. You'll have boost instantly on that. You would probably make in the neighboorhood of 200bhp. I would guess around 200-210bhp @ 9-10psi. Say 156-163whp. Peak.

The stock wastegate is... 4psi. I would leave it like that & see how it drives just to make sure everything is peachy.

@ 4psi The turbo should be putting out little more peak power than the engine already makes. You'll have a lot more grunt from having a powerband as broad as the turbo can make it. (Even if you don't nessicarialy make any more peak power with the turbo.)

I digress... Leave it as-is & run it @ 4psi to see how it responds. Set the distributor at 5* btdc (stock is 10*), set a cheap ebay FPR to 50-60psi & I hope to be finalizing my data on AFM cog adjustments soon. Put the NGK plugs in & check them out. Then just hang out for a week. Make sure it's not lean & gonna crap all over itself. Then give 9-10psi a try with a hair more fuel pressure & more AFM cog richness.

[takeaflyingleap]

definitely a budget set up. eventually I will go with something a little more substantial. for now I just need a little more power. I have already ported and polished the heads and intake, so I am hoping that this will give me what I'm looking for. Does the O2 sensor go before the turbo or after the turbo? I will have about a million more questions, so I'll make a list and fire away right before I get ready to install this thing.

Thanks,

Neil

[Toysrme]

It can go either way. There are pluses & minuses to both just before & just after the turbine. I would probably stick it a few inches down the down-pipe so you get a better flow into it.

[takeaflyingleap]

Is there any benefit to polishing the internals of the compressor side of the turbo? The casting looks kind of rough. I'm going to post some pictures soon (I have to take them first). Which is better, an air to air or air to water intercooler? I have the aluminum, some heater cores and the welding skills to make an air to water intercooler. I even have an electric water pump from my drag racing days for a stand alone intercooling system. I may be over complicating things here (I have a tendency to do that) What I am thinking about doing is relocating the battery to the trunk and mounting the air to water intercooler in place of the battery. Mounting the turbo over the transmission and using the cross over pipe for the turbo supply. I am also thinking of running an engine oil cooler and was wondering if I should plumb that in line before the turbo. I am sure that I will need you to hold my hand through the set up for the air/fuel and also a glossary for the acronyms, like FPR. Correct me if I am wrong, but I heard that you can run an external fuel system that is activated with the turbo. Something with it's own fuel pump and separate injectors that activate when the turbo spools. That also may be overkill. I'm going to start drawing the plans and parts list next week. I'll send it to you if you wouldn't mind looking it over and critiquing it. Also let me know what you think of my ideas so far so I can incorporate them into my plans.

Thanks,

Neil

[takeaflyingleap]

Ok I did a little research and decided that I want to do an air to water intercooler. They look like they give the best inlet temperature drop. I am however, looking for suggestions on types of blow off valves and settings. Inlet pipe diameter suggestions and any other suggestions that you can think of. I am convinced that I can make an effective air to water intercooler with a little more research. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Neil

[Toysrme]

Polishing the compressor housing will minutely help.

There are positives & negatives to both an A2A & A2W cooler. When the actual charge cooler itself stays the same size, an A2W cooler is more efficient. Otherwise, they are harder to package, require maintenance, more weight, more parts etc. I'm not the biggest fan of A2W intercoolers on road-going cars. Unless you're running on a track all day, or doing lots of semi-sustained boosting I just don't see the need.

There are so many used & cheap coolers that are as good as anything else you can buy cheaply. The if you get to the point where you're boosting for so long it starts to heat soak, a $5 windshield washer pump, $3 of hose from a store & a few dollars in atomizer/mist nozzle<s> will solve that.

Water spray on a cooler is great stuff. If you're worried about running out of water, there is *plenty* of space in the engine bay / behind bodypanels in the nose to run however much water you need. Run a gallon if you want. Or 4. I digress, your project, if A2W is where it's at for you, it zings my bing!

I wouldn't add an oil cooler pre-turbo. Little of the oil will be cooled. Add an oil cooler pre filter & relocate the oil filter. Keep the turbo oil supply line to about 1/8", or a 3AN size. Turbo's under a generic T4 size don't need much oil & too big a supply line is a common cause of leaky/blown out seals.

I can run you through a good A/F setup. That's not going to be a big problem. Yes, you can add extra injector<s> to make up fueling differences. I prefer that method to replacing all injectors & re-tuning the stock ECU, whenever possible. It's the easiest way to effectively tune something. (No you don't use a separate fueling system. You simply T into the existing fuel setup.)

mmmm I don't really know of any guides on building your own A2W cooler. I really don't know where to begin to help you on that one.

Ya know... In a way I'm jelous of you. You're gonna have a lot easier work to do than anyone else will. Regardless of the 2vz being weaker, that es250 will be faster @ 200-220bhp than anyone elses ES 300 will be @ 280bhp. And yet you're still in the rough paramiters that the drivetrain can safely work in without much second thought. :)