Using The 7336 Pc Buffer

[joelsin]

I have a black Lexus LS430 that needs a thorough cleaning both inside and out. I've been using a 7336 PC Buffer to polish the dark surface which showes every mark imaginable. I have clayed and used a scratch removing compound as part of the first 2 applications. As for polishing the surface, my question is: how fast do I regulate the speed of the buffer to achieve the best finish on the different compunds? Also, the plastic bumpers are in need of some major cleaning and gouge repair. I have a Bondo repair kit to fill the deeper scratches and am not sure if this is the appropriate material to use. Over all, the conditon of the vehicle is excellent, however it has never been totally and thoroughly detailed. Your response is appreciated......thank you.

[SW03ES]

The bondo material is not the proper material to repair the bumper covers, in fact you cannot repair covers that are deeply gouged, you'll be better off letting a bodyshop refinish them.

As for the PC, what compounds and pads are you using?

[joelsin]

Thanks for the recommendation to have the bumper covers repaired by autobody shop. As for the buffing pad, it is the same pad that came with the PC - a 6" buffing pad, supposedly safe for all applications. Additionally, I have used the pad for both compounds (cleaning and polishing) while cleaning the pad with Dawn or Tide detergent between applications. The two compounds I have used so far are Meguires #1 Medium cleaner for scratches and Meguires #9 Swirl Remover and polish. I recently purchased MOTHER'S POWER POLISH for all Buffer TYPES. The product says that it removes Swirls & Scratches and is safe for Clear Coats. I found that when using the Meguiar's #1, I had to go back several times to get the scratches reduced or removed. Perahps if i had used the buffer at a higher spin rate it would have produced a better result - I used the #3 setting for the polisher. Thanks for your assistance.

The bondo material is not the proper material to repair the bumper covers, in fact you cannot repair covers that are deeply gouged, you'll be better off letting a bodyshop refinish them.

As for the PC, what compounds and pads are you using?

[SW03ES]

You need to buy some better pads. The pad that comes with the PC is extremely poor, you'll get much better performance out of higher quality pads. www.pakshak.com has a good selection.

Speed 3 is also way too low, I use 4.5 to spread the product around and 6 to buff it out.

[TOGWT]

There are many threads on foam pads/products/speed used, this will provide some info -

Polish / Cutting Pad (*Yellow)-a harder more dense foam composition (50 PPI ) with an abrasive cutting action, for use with a medium abrasive polish, Machine Polish 1 or 2, Swirl Mark Remover, or Autoglym Paint Renovator Polish (Speed number 4-5)

Polish / Light Cutting Pad (*Orange)-a mid range, high density foam composition (60 PPI) with a medium abrasive cutting action, for use with a Swirl Mark Remover, Pre-Wax Paint Cleaner, Klasse All-In-One, or Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Speed number 4)

Polish / Waxing Pad (*White)-a softer less dense foam composition(70 PPI) with a light abrasive cutting action, for use with a Swirl Mark Remover, Pre-Wax Paint Cleaner, Klasse All-In-One, or Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Speed number 4)

Finishing Pad (*Black)-an ultra-smooth foam that has no abrasive cutting ability (80 PPI) for use with Klasse High Sealant Gloss, Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection, Zanio Z-2 or Z-5 or a Glaze (Speed number 3)

Levelling Pad (Wool):

Are made from 100% natural lambs wool (do not use synthetic wool) are usually used to level a paint film surface with an abrasive machine polish (compound) or to apply a polish to large areas

Wool pads used wet or dry produce the most paint surface `compounding haze' (40 PPI)

Four- Ply 100% Twisted Wool

Each strand of high grade wool fibre is tightly twisted, allowing our pad to stay at a consistent level of aggression for longer periods of operation. Choose from 1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2" and 2" pile lengths. Choose shorter pile for your most aggressive compounding and longer pile for aggressive compounding with greater durability.

Electrified White Sheepskin

The electrification process removes the microscopic barbs from the hairs in the wool resulting in a soft and effective compounding material that does not scratch the painted surface.

Choose from 3", 4", and 5" diameters with a 1/2" or 3/4" pile height.

Lake Counties (LC) patented process encapsulates the base of the lamb’s wool fibres with microscopic polyurethane foam particles. Cuts like natural sheepskin but finishes like a foam pad. Aggressively removes 1500 - 2000 grit scratches, leaving a lustrous finish with no hazing by reducing compounding swirls. Foamed fibres resist matting and compression. Foaming process also creates minute air pockets at the base of the fibres, which improves cushioning and retention of compounds and polishes.

Information Resource- http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/woolcutpads_feat.html

[joelsin]

Thank you gentlemen for you responses and advice, it is much appreciated - I certainly will invest some time and effort to obtaint the correct pads to use.

With regard to the pad, should I be applying the compound and then, once applied, remove it with a micro-fiber cloth using a 50/50 solution of water and alcohol: the same applies for the polishing compound? It, to me, is a bit unclear if the buffing compound is removed wet or dry? Additionally, with regard to the sealant, should i be applying and then using the PC and a fine buffing pad to remove it ? In the past, I have been applying the sealant by hand and then removing it with a micro-fiber cloth. Thanks again for your assistance and advice.

[SW03ES]

Well, really modern compounds and polishes that can be used with a PC can all be removed dry. if you're using them properly there won't be much of anything left on the paint surface to wipe up anyways. The point of the 50/50 water/alc. mixture is to remove any fillers the polishes might have left behind making sure that the marring has been totally removed, and making sure that you can bond crosslinking polymer sealants to the paint afterward. If those things aren't really a consideration than I wouldn't bother.

[joelsin]

Well, really modern compounds and polishes that can be used with a PC can all be removed dry. if you're using them properly there won't be much of anything left on the paint surface to wipe up anyways. The point of the 50/50 water/alc. mixture is to remove any fillers the polishes might have left behind making sure that the marring has been totally removed, and making sure that you can bond crosslinking polymer sealants to the paint afterward. If those things aren't really a consideration than I wouldn't bother.

Thanks for replying to my previous message. Let me clarify what you're saying because things do have a way of being misinterperted.

1.To remove scratches spin the compound with an orange, foam cutting pad, keep the pad lubricated using water At this point there should be no buffing compound left to wipe off the painted surface. Proceed with using a polishing compound to remove any swirl marks or haze.

2. Polish the surface to remove hazing and swirls using a white foam pad to bring back the luster and shine.

3. Apply the wax using the PC buffer and a black, foam finishing pad. Remove the dried wax using the PC buffer and a clean, foam, black finishing pad. Whether applying synthetic sealants or wax the black foam pad is an acceptable way to apply/remove either of these materials.

I am assuming that this is what you are saying that I should be doing and a good technique to use to achieve excellent results. Thanks in advance for any corrections and suggestions. I appreciate you comments and help.

[SW03ES]

Ypu've got it. You don't want to keep the pad wet though, a spritz with water at first will get it ready but you don't want it wet. Apply only enough of the compound to do the job, and when you're done buffing out a section there should be little to no residue left. Now, what types of compounds and what types of polishes are your planning on using

[joelsin]

Ypu've got it. You don't want to keep the pad wet though, a spritz with water at first will get it ready but you don't want it wet. Apply only enough of the compound to do the job, and when you're done buffing out a section there should be little to no residue left. Now, what types of compounds and what types of polishes are your planning on using

Thanks for your response SW. As for Polishes I'm using, I have Meguiar's Step 2 Polish, Mother's Power Polish and some older Dupont #7 that are all available. Whether or not I should be using them is another matter. I have purchased the S100 paste wax and have some Meguiar's Deep Crystal Carnuba PW as well.

I am now finishing the bumpers and find the Back to Black is a bit tricky to use. The directions say to buff out after drying. The Mother's forum says to add a protectant over the BB as it will run with wet weather. I've also ordered the 303 and the Poorboy's Natural look for the dash. I can't beging to tell you the hours I've spent on this car.

Oh, one other thing...........the tires I'd prefer, not a wet look, but a natural look; what do u suggest for a good trie dressing? Thanks a million for your help.

[JasonATL]

The 303 Protectant should give the tires the look you want. For me, the 303 on tires isn't wet enough. It is really not very shiny at all. So, I "mix" 303 with Meg's tire gel to the wet look I want. I spray some 303 on the tire, put some Meg's gel on a tire sponge and spread. Nice shiny, wet look, due to the Meg's gel. The 303 seems to make it last a lot longer than the Meg's gel alone.

Again, the 303 alone will probably give you the look you want. Spray it on, spread it, wait a few minutes then buff it off. A clean, but not wet, look to my eyes.

[SW03ES]

I agree, 303 Protectant is a good choice.