Harmonic Balancer Is Toast

[Andymon]

Well, the good news is that the nasty screeching on my '91 ES250 is due to the outer part of the harmonic balancer rubbing up against the power steering belt. I had originally thought it was the timing belt idler pully, and I'm therefore jazzed at not having to dig into that right now.

Bad news is I don't know diddly about replacement of the part.

Now, I'm sure I can figure out the mechanics of replacing it, I just would like the cheapest available option to replacing it. Should I go used or will that mean just doing this again in a couple months?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Also, while under the car I found the passenger side universal grease seal thingie is split. Looks like the driver's side has recently been replaced. Options for cheapest/quickest replacement?

Thanks again,

-----------Andymon

[Toysrme]

If yours become unglued, I wanna see it! Anyways, most of the time they're $150-300.

Toyota completely quit using harmonic balancers b/c they achive full balancing internally. I don't think they have used something external since the old A & R engines. What they have now is simple harmonic dampener. It has a "rubber-ish" intertia ring inside it that lessens the shock on the belts during rpm changes. That's what Toyota calls a "Crank pulley"!

^ You mean the CV joint. Replace the boot. If it's clicking, replace the whole half-shaft.

[Andymon]

If yours become unglued, I wanna see it! Anyways, most of the time they're $150-300.

Toyota completely quit using harmonic balancers b/c they achive full balancing internally. I don't think they have used something external since the old A & R engines. What they have now is simple harmonic dampener. It has a "rubber-ish" intertia ring inside it that lessens the shock on the belts during rpm changes. That's what Toyota calls a "Crank pulley"!

^ You mean the CV joint. Replace the boot. If it's clicking, replace the whole half-shaft.

OK, Crank Pulley. All I can tell you is that I SAW the outer ring of the crank pulley move along its axis about a cm (!) when revving the engine. It would move away from the engine, then settle back, past where it should, and I could see it rubbing against the PS belt. Bunches of vibration in the alternator belt as the crank pulley moved, but it did not skip track.

Should I consider a used one, or do they still run $150-plus? If I do go used, do you know what engines are compatible? Is it the same pulley on the 3-liter engines?

OK, CV joint. Is it okay to use one of the cut-in-half boots, or is that cheating?

Thanks again for your reply.

----------Andymon

[Toysrme]

I wouldn't buy a new one, they're expencive!

TAPRecycling.net

Or get a URD lightweight pulley

http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPa...s_id=1230100022

[Andymon]

I wouldn't buy a new one, they're expencive!

TAPRecycling.net

Or get a URD lightweight pulley

http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPa...s_id=1230100022

That thing looks cool, but it is for the 3 liter engine. I've got the 2.5 liter. Are these parts interchangable?

I've got TAP about 10 miles away from where I live, and they had ONE used 2.5 pulley yesterday for $85. If I can't figure a way to get this old pulley to work, I'll probably go with something like that.

----------Andymon

[Andymon]

Well, I got the pulley out.... in 2 pieces. Definately unglued. I'll see if I can post some pics. I'm going to see if I can weld it in the interest of saving money.

Mean time, I'm about to go back out and replace the cv boot with a generic 2-piece unit (generic was the only thing available at my FLAPS).

---------Andymon

[tckcumming]

Well, I got the pulley out.... in 2 pieces. Definately unglued. I'll see if I can post some pics. I'm going to see if I can weld it in the interest of saving money.

Mean time, I'm about to go back out and replace the cv boot with a generic 2-piece unit (generic was the only thing available at my FLAPS).

---------Andymon

I'd think twice about welding your pulley. Lots of potential for grief...

New ones are expensive because they're a fairly precision piece. You can be sure that your welded one will not be balanced properly, any imbalance (however small) will be transferred directly to your crankshaft. I'd also hate to see the result if the weld "let go" at hiway speed - expensive AND dangerous to have that 5 pound hunk of shrapnel flying around up there.

$85 for a used one seems pretty reasonable, I'd do that instead.

Also... I've always wondered how well those "split" CV boots work. I've considered using one of those kits in the past, but I didn't feel like experimenting so I chickened out. Let us know what you think when you've changed it.

tck...

[lexus400]

It might be worth just replacing the whole half shaft. They're pretty reasonable and might last longer than

a split boot. I haven't heard anyone have long term success using them.

If you spend $25 on one, you're 1/4 of the way towards a rebuilt shaft with 2 new boots.

Bob

[Andymon]

I'd think twice about welding your pulley. Lots of potential for grief...

New ones are expensive because they're a fairly precision piece. You can be sure that your welded one will not be balanced properly, any imbalance (however small) will be transferred directly to your crankshaft. I'd also hate to see the result if the weld "let go" at hiway speed - expensive AND dangerous to have that 5 pound hunk of shrapnel flying around up there.

$85 for a used one seems pretty reasonable, I'd do that instead.

Also... I've always wondered how well those "split" CV boots work. I've considered using one of those kits in the past, but I didn't feel like experimenting so I chickened out. Let us know what you think when you've changed it.

tck...

Well, looks like both questions could get answered. FWIW I had the pulley welded with 8 tacks on each side, filling the gap between the 2 pieces, and grinding down the excess on the PS belt side of the pulley.

Split cv joint also on very well on the wheel side, not-so-good on the shaft side. Can you say hokey? All I can say about it is that it is definately better than the fully split boot it has replaced, even if it is a nasty generic one-size-fits-all thingamajigger.

This is a 3rd car and a fun project that I'd like to get some miles out of, but if I don't, that is okay as well. This is really a low-budget situation.

I've got the car running again and am pleased so far.... with the whopping 80 miles I've put on it. I'll update everybody if update worthy news comes along.

As far as the welds failing, I"d be in the same spot as before. Hard to explain, but the pulley became two distinct pieces held in place, and making at least a little noise, for over 600 miles. I'm sure I'll be given some warning if the welds break.

Now I'm gonna see about uploading the pics of the broken pulley as promised. I just realized I never took pics of the pulley after the "repair". I'll see if I can get some, but the piece is now back on the car.

Well, fark.

I'm too tired to figure out how to post pics. They are meg a piece & I have 4. If you want, I'll Email 'em to you.

------------Andymon