Valve Cover Sludge

[Icemaninlv]

Anyone heard that inside the valve cover by the pcv and other outlets if the filters inside the cover our sludged that makes the gray smoke? a toyota mech. told me that, said he changed the covers and smoke went away saying that the engine can breath.

[monarch]

If there's sludge in the valve covers then the current or former owner(s) failed to change the engine oil at least every 6 months or 5000 miles.

Even if sludged, the valve covers can be cleaned up in 5 minutes using a can of brake cleaner. Replacing the valve covers because they are sludged is as crazy and replacing the windshield because its full of bugs.

[Toysrme]

That's a yes and no question. The sludge itself doesn't cause a problem.

When the PCV, and/or breather lines are covered/clogged; pressure builds up in the crankcase. Oil blows by the rings into the combustion chamber.

Thus, you have the burning oil and smoke.

Most of the time there is little sludge under the valve cover. It has the oily varnish on it, but the oil simply runs off the valve cover (and the valve cover isn't particularly hot enough to cook the oil while it's on there.

Looks like this.

10-1 says he was lazy and didn't feel like changing the PCV valve.

[Icemaninlv]

what is wrong with that picture? looks fine.

I recently bought the car with the problem, but would this cuase it to run way rich?

I changed the PCV a month ago old one was clogged.

[Toysrme]

Nothing was wrong with it, jsut showing what the sindide should look like -> the metal is silver, but the oil films on it / varnishes parts leaving a gold color. That's good.

Icemaninlv no, I'll call you tomorrow.

[mburnickas]

If there's sludge in the valve covers then the current or former owner(s) failed to change the engine oil at least every 6 months or 5000 miles.

Even if sludged, the valve covers can be cleaned up in 5 minutes using a can of brake cleaner.  Replacing the valve covers because they are sludged is as crazy and replacing the windshield because its full of bugs.

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I disagree somewhat since even Lexus sent out documents saying the mileage you posted is incorrect. There is no time or mileage interval on any docs here (for the sludge engines).

But keep using a dino (any) oil here. Also it anyone THINKS they have a sludge issue there is a simple way to test (as I have posted for years on). Spend the $30 for an oil test and look at the results.

To close, if you have a sludge issue and clean the covers, you are not fixing the problem. It WILL happen again unless you change something.

[mburnickas]

what is wrong with that picture? looks fine.

I recently bought the car with the problem,  but would this cuase it to run way rich?

I changed the PCV a month ago old one was clogged.

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Varish man...Cheap oil and lots of heat.

[ArmyofOne]

what is wrong with that picture? looks fine.

I recently bought the car with the problem,  but would this cuase it to run way rich?

I changed the PCV a month ago old one was clogged.

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Varish man...Cheap oil and lots of heat.

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Not nessecarily. I agree with you on most things dude, but on this one, i cant agree. Every engine will varnish eventually, no matter what oil you use, barring synthetic. Synbthetic doesnt varnish because it can withstand much higher heat levels. but even the highest quality oils cause varnish eventually.

a couple of oil changes with synthetic will make it go away.

[Icemaninlv]

looks like the distributer is bad between ne and g1 no cams or cranksignal to the ecu engine floods with fuel. new one will be here tuesday morning will reply when i put it in. wish me luck.

[mburnickas]

Not nessecarily.  I agree with you on most things dude, but on this one, i cant agree.  Every engine will varnish eventually, no matter what oil you use, barring synthetic. Synbthetic doesnt varnish because it can withstand much higher heat levels.  but even the highest quality oils cause varnish eventually.

a couple of oil changes with synthetic will make it go away.

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All I am saying is that I have never seen varnish on any engine of mine or family's. If you have varnish you have neglected the engine in some form (mostly oil, duration or low add pkg oil being used).

If you use a better oil, you will have LESS or NO oxidation happening when the oil is to hot and vaporizing leaving varnish behind.

So if you have varnish, this is the starting of deposits/sludge. Also if you have varnish I would test the oil for oxidation/nitration. They will be high. Persoanlly I would use a better oil or shorten the intervals you are doing now down some; since they are too long. Hence, more oil changes.

In a group 4 or 5 you should never see varnish. In a synthetic oil ,for example a group 3, you will have varnish quicker then a 4 or 5.

[JPI]

Not nessecarily.  I agree with you on most things dude, but on this one, i cant agree.  Every engine will varnish eventually, no matter what oil you use, barring synthetic. Synbthetic doesnt varnish because it can withstand much higher heat levels.  but even the highest quality oils cause varnish eventually.

a couple of oil changes with synthetic will make it go away.

←

All I am saying is that I have never seen varnish on any engine of mine or family's. If you have varnish you have neglected the engine in some form (mostly oil, duration or low add pkg oil being used).

If you use a better oil, you will have LESS or NO oxidation happening when the oil is to hot and vaporizing leaving varnish behind.

So if you have varnish, this is the starting of deposits/sludge. Also if you have varnish I would test the oil for oxidation/nitration. They will be high. Persoanlly I would use a better oil or shorten the intervals you are doing now down some; since they are too long. Hence, more oil changes.

In a group 4 or 5 you should never see varnish. In a synthetic oil ,for example a group 3, you will have varnish quicker then a 4 or 5.

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There is a long discussion about this topic. Mike was kind enough to get the oil sample test for us. Changing the valve covers alone won't fix it.

JP Importz

[mburnickas]

Not nessecarily.  I agree with you on most things dude, but on this one, i cant agree.  Every engine will varnish eventually, no matter what oil you use, barring synthetic. Synbthetic doesnt varnish because it can withstand much higher heat levels.  but even the highest quality oils cause varnish eventually.

a couple of oil changes with synthetic will make it go away.

←

All I am saying is that I have never seen varnish on any engine of mine or family's. If you have varnish you have neglected the engine in some form (mostly oil, duration or low add pkg oil being used).

If you use a better oil, you will have LESS or NO oxidation happening when the oil is to hot and vaporizing leaving varnish behind.

So if you have varnish, this is the starting of deposits/sludge. Also if you have varnish I would test the oil for oxidation/nitration. They will be high. Persoanlly I would use a better oil or shorten the intervals you are doing now down some; since they are too long. Hence, more oil changes.

In a group 4 or 5 you should never see varnish. In a synthetic oil ,for example a group 3, you will have varnish quicker then a 4 or 5.

←

There is a long discussion about this topic. Mike was kind enough to get the oil sample test for us. Changing the valve covers alone won't fix it.

JP Importz

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I would have to agree since you (not you) are still not fixing the problem.