Jump to content


What's Wrong?


Recommended Posts

Hello,

As you know, I have 97 ES300. I changed following items.

Front Lower arm controller bushing. (Both)

Front KYB struts and mounts.(Both)

Front stabilizer bar bushing. (Both)

And, still I am hearing some noise comes from front when I go over speed bump.

I am very upset. Please help me to solve this problem.

Thanks,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

As you know, I have 97 ES300. I changed following items.

Front Lower arm controller bushing. (Both)

Front KYB struts and mounts.(Both)

Front stabilizer bar bushing. (Both)

And, still I am hearing some noise comes from front when I go over speed bump.

I am very upset. Please help me to solve this problem.

Thanks,

check your lower ball joints. also your strut mounts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

somebody check ball joints, okay.and new strut mounts

they might look ok, but chcances are they arent, their lifespan is about 100K miles. maybe 150 if all highway. 9x out fo 10, ball joints look ok until they are changed, then you dont realize they have been eating themselves alive LOL.

the other thing to check is the rack and piniopn buchings and mounts, make sure they arent loose/bad.

if you can move the wheel laterally or vertically, chances are you have a fried ball joint, and/or bad rack and pinion bushings. the R&P bushings tend to last MUCH longer than the ball joints though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is it easy to change or better take it to shop.

The R&P bushings on an ES are a PITA, an LS is different. those are easier.

i woudl say if you cant change a CV axle/align your car, dont attempt this.

Ball joints are a farily easy procedure, will cost you 1-2hrs per side, 2 hrs being the MOST. the ball joints themselves are under $40 here:

http://www.discounttoyotaparts.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They replace mine 2 month old strut with new strut and mount i was right there when they were installing. I saw that yellow place(Spring bump), but they didn't use any grease.

I am sure they know what they are doing.

Noise is still there. I think it's ball joint. I could be wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They replace mine 2 month old strut with new strut and mount i was right there when they were installing. I saw that yellow place(Spring bump), but they didn't use any grease.

I am sure they know what they are doing.

Noise is still there. I think it's ball joint. I could be wrong.

Here you are camlex:

Step 1: Inspect. (irregardless of whether you desire to do this step, i will put in in here for the archives)

-In some vehicles it is recommended that you check to see if the grease fitting can wiggle in the ball joint. If it does, the ball joint should be replaced. Always check the service manual when checking ball joints.

-Some ball joints have a wear indicator built into them. The most common type of wear indicator has a shoulder that sticks out of the bottom of the joint about 0.050" when it is new. If the ball joint has worn, this shoulder will recede into the ball joint housing. When it is flush, the ball joint should be replaced. A wear indicator ball joint must be loaded and at normal ride height to read the indicator.

0900823d8005024d.gif

-Ball joints should be checked for excessive wear and torn grease seals. Look for unusual tire wear. Worn ball joints or other front suspension parts that cause looseness can result in cupped wear of the tire tread. A torn or missing ball joint seal will require replacement of the joint by a front suspension specialist. Bad shock absorbers or a tire out of balance can also result in cupped wear.

-Feel around the outside of the boot, looking for tears. If the boot is torn, the joint will probably fail soon and should be replaced.

-Inspect also for signs of rust or cracks on the control arm near the joint.

-Load carrying joints will have some slop when the weight of the vehicle is taken off them. Follower joints should never have play.

-To check a load-carrying joint, it must be unloaded. When the coil spring is on the lower control arm, raise the vehicle by jacking under the control arm as close to the ball joint as possible. This gives the maximum amount of leverage against the spring.

-The ball joint is unloaded when the upper strike out bumper is not in contact with the control arm or frame. A quick check for looseness can be made by using a pry bar between the tire and the ground.

part II coming up...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Step 2: Replace.

0900823d80050ece.gif

^The ball joint is connected to the steering knuckle with a tapered connection, called a steering taper, which is also used in other steering connections.

To remove a ball joint requires the use of a ball joint remover.

Another way of "breaking" the taper is to use a large hammer.

-First, remove the cotter pin from the ball joint nut and loosen the nut several turns.

-Position the vehicle so that the coil spring is pushing on the ball joint. This could require lifting the vehicle or allowing its weight to rest on the wheels.

-Use a hammer to pound sharply on the steering knuckle on the outside of the taper. This will deform the taper and spring pressure will separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.

Removing the Ball Joint from the Control Arm

A ball joint can be retained by one of several methods:

0900823d80050ecf.gif

Some ball joints are held in with rivets from the factory. The rivets are drilled and punched to remove them. Bolts and nuts are used to hold the replacement joint in place:

0900823d80050ed0.gif

-The most common method is press fit. Some manufacturers require you to replace the entire control arm assembly if a ball joint is to be replaced. In these cases, the ball joint and control arm are made as a single assembly and individual parts are not available.

-If the control arm has been removed from the vehicle, a pressed-fit ball joint can be removed using a standard hydraulic press. When the control arm is still on the car, a special press set allows the removal and replacement of these ball joints. Some pressed-fit ball joints have a spot weld that holds them in place. This must be carefully removed. When a replacement ball joint is installed, a snap ring often takes the place of the weld.

NOTE

Be sure the grease release hole in the new ball joint's rubber boot is aimed away from the brakes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership