Need More Advice Re: Valve Cover Gasket

[ArmyofOne]

VERY well detailed description steviej!!!   :D

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Thanks Bren. It just raises my fur when someone tries to reword exactly what I said and then further adds possible confusion to the the whole shabang.

Replacing half shafts is one of my favorite DIY repairs to undertake. Done it many times on various makes and models. In every case, it was cheaper and easier to to go the way of replacing the entire half shaft.

Army:

Shirley's ES is probably equiped with ABS and traction control where your ES 250 is not (I'm guessing here). I allowed for a little extra time in removing the old half shafts without damaging the hub with traction control sensors and the ABS sensors. I also figured that the last thing Shirley would want to do is lug the dirty greasey HEAVY old half shafts from her mechanic to the autoparts store. I figured a little more because her mechanic will order the parts from the same place she is going to and yes charge her a little more, but she then won't be bothered with any of the details. Hence I figured at best: $250 per side = $500.

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yes i have ABS, but no on Trac control. :D

but alot of it has to do with the fact that i had JPI do the work...i got a killer deal.

[Lexusfreak]

VERY well detailed description steviej!!!   :D

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Thanks Bren. It just raises my fur when someone tries to reword exactly what I said and then further adds possible confusion to the the whole shabang.

Replacing half shafts is one of my favorite DIY repairs to undertake. Done it many times on various makes and models. In every case, it was cheaper and easier to to go the way of replacing the entire half shaft.

Army:

Shirley's ES is probably equiped with ABS and traction control where your ES 250 is not (I'm guessing here). I allowed for a little extra time in removing the old half shafts without damaging the hub with traction control sensors and the ABS sensors. I also figured that the last thing Shirley would want to do is lug the dirty greasey HEAVY old half shafts from her mechanic to the autoparts store. I figured a little more because her mechanic will order the parts from the same place she is going to and yes charge her a little more, but she then won't be bothered with any of the details. Hence I figured at best: $250 per side = $500.

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yes i have ABS, but no on Trac control. :D

but alot of it has to do with the fact that i had JPI do the work...i got a killer deal.

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:whistles:

[steviej]

but alot of it has to do with the fact that i had JPI do the work...i got a killer deal.

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Then the price you paid hardly applies to what Shirley will run into, agreed!? JPI is a long drive for Shirley given she is in So. Cal. That is why I gave her the ballpark of $500 to $600 for both sides.

steviej

[ArmyofOne]

but alot of it has to do with the fact that i had JPI do the work...i got a killer deal.

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Then the price you paid hardly applies to what Shirley will run into, agreed!? JPI is a long drive for Shirley given she is in So. Cal. That is why I gave her the ballpark of $500 to $600 for both sides.

steviej

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yes but i had a mechanic local to me told me $400 for both sides...so i was just saying i thought thats a little high. however, due to the increased labor and more parts/sensors that could be damaged i guess $500-$600 is a fair guess, in SoCal it could be more, i didnt even think about the fact that she was there.

[JPI]

The cost of living in cali is very high compare to Dallas. But most of the shop around here have a licence, LICENSE TO STEAL. I'm glad you have all your problem resolve. Take care Shirley.

JPI

[ronvader]

Hi all,

I need more advice regarding my valve cover gasket problem. I took my car to my friendly neighborhood garage today, the one who did the work about a month ago when mice ate through a lot of wiring and the one whom I 'thought' had told me they also changed the valve cover gaskets. Well, it turns out that they hadn't done that. The owner's wife said that she told me at the time that it needed doing.

So, the mechanic took another look at it and said that the valve cover gasket was leaking oil onto the exhaust. They gave me a price of about $300.00 to replace it; they said the part itself was only about $20.00 but that it was about 3 or 4 hours labor @ $68.00 per hour. Does that sound about right in southern California?

Another thing.... I asked them about the rear valve cover gasket and was that alright? She said that there 'isn't' any valve cover gasket in the rear but you guys are mentioning the front and rear ones all the time. So, what is that all about? Is there another name for the one in the rear? Now, I'm really confused....

Is it safe to drive the car for awhile this way, with the burning smell after driving it, but no oil leaks on the driveway? I don't want to do any more damage.

One last thing.... I asked her about the PCV valve (I hope that's the right name)and she said that if there was a problem with that, the engine warning light would come on. Is that correct? My car is a '93 with about 74,000 miles on it. I don't know if it's ever been changed because I bought it used.

Your answers will sure be appreciated.

Shirley

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I had the same problem for two years, with oil leaking at rear of engine. My ES300 has 300000km on it, runs well, doesn't use oil internally, but oil was burning on the hot exhaust pipe as it passes under and to the rear of the engine. My Lexus dealership failed to diagnose the problem. Two other (general mechanic) shops couldn't find it. A local Pennzoil Oil Change Service Center told me it looked like a drive shaft seal was leaking bad. Main symptom was a very annoying burning stinky oil smell coming in the vents when at rest after car warmed up. No real oil stains on ground. This had been occurring over a 2 year period and was driving me nuts.

Finally I got fed up and took the following steps;

a) Got really mad and fed-up!

b) Drove front wheels up onto a high curb so I could crawl underneath for a look with a flashlight. Looked around from topside as well, using a portable mirror. I did this after dark so I could see better (strange as it sounds). I confirmed clean oil wetness originating from rear edge of rear valve cover, and running down onto exhaust pipe. I tested and found several of the valve cover capscrews were loose enough to turn using my fingers. Made sense, oil pools there somewhat during operation, then drains back down into crankcase after shutdown (explaining the lack of driveway stains).

c) Got a combination spanner (10mm A/F) and a bright flashlight. Tightened each of the capscrews by hand. I had to be a bit of a contortionist, but fortunately I was still angry (and stubborn). I did manage to get at and tightened them all

d) Took car to detailing shop, had the engine & area professionally washed & cleaned.

I haven't had any problems since. Not this type of problem anyway.

Hope this helps someone...