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Posted

A while ago I posted that I thought my rear rotor was warped and my caliper was seased.

Well after a long day of driving I took a IR gun and measured the temp the right rear (the one I believe is *BLEEP*ed up) was 300 while the left one was 200 degrease F.

I removed the wheel when it was cool and measured the run out of the rotor and it is about .009 at the edge and about .006 in the center. The limit is .006 so I am going to assume it is warped. Which means it is time to replace the rear rotors and calipers.

My question is

1. should I replace everything including all the parking brake shoes that are inside the rotor?

2. should I do it on both sides or just the side that is warped?

3. should I also change the rubber lines that run to the caliper?

And what should I be replacing it with. Is there anything wrong with getting the stuff from my local allpoints auto store or should I get it from Lexus.

Thanks for you help

Posted

i forgot to say i did find this in my search

Lexus/Toyota pads are softer but easier on the rotors.  If anyone's front/rear pads can last for 50,000 miles, why look for aftermarket?  Normally, the rotors should last 2-3 sets of pads.  If you do any tire jobs anywhere, make sure they do not over tighten the lug nuts (76 lbs. according to owner's manual).  Over tighten or unevenly tightened lug nuts are the main reasons for rotor premature failure.  If you live in New England area, of course you'll power wash the car/the brake a few times in the winter to prevent rust.  By the way, the rear brake lower caliper slides tend to seize over time.

is this true and if it is could my caliper not be bad?. could i just cut the rotor and put everything back together and everything be good?

Posted

go to a professional and see if the rotors have enough meat on them to cut and still leave you with enough metal to be safe. If they do, cut them. If not, replace them.

If you like the OEM feel and quiet of the brakes now, then I would get all the stuff online at www.irontoad.com or www.lexus-parts.com. If you buy aftermarket you get aftermarket....they may squeal a little and they may produce more brake dust.

Pads come in fours so it is the whole axle or nothing at all. If you got a seized caliper then maybe the caliper should be looked at. Alot of times it is old rubber boots that don't retract back or as simple as dirt that is jamming the caliper. If the boot around the piston is torn then I would expect pressure release and even leaking fluid.

If the rubber brake hose have never been replaced it may be a good idea if this part is suspect to accessory to the problem. They ain't that expensive so go for it if it looks weak, kinked, uneven, etc.

you won't know about the parking brake materials until you pull the rear rotors and have a look. They may be ok or cleanable.

steviej

Posted

I all ready pulled the rotors and checked the rear shoes and they meet spec of 2mm or more.

I am going to try and have that rotor cut and see if that fixes the problem. what worys me is the rears normaly do not warp very easly so i am hoping there is not something else wrong.

and does anyone have more info about this "the rear brake lower caliper slides tend to seize over time." is this true and what years does this affect and how do i prevent this?

Just take off the wheel and clean and lube it once a year?

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