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Troubleshoot 1MZ-FE V6 coolant loss now won't start


crypticaleleven

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Please help troubleshoot my 1MZ-FE V6 engine not starting. What would be the likely causes and next troubleshooting steps for the symptoms described below.

Engine was running well on the interstate this morning until dash lights came on and gradual loss of power, then complete stop. Lower radiator hose was leaking near clamp and the radiator was half empty. I do not believe the radiator temperature gauge rose significantly before the failure.

Got a tow 100 miles back to the house then tested the battery. The battery was dead so I charged it. Still would not start. I put the transmission in neutral gear and turned the crank pulley with a wrench. The belts and pulleys appear to be rotating normally. I got someone to turn the ignition key while I watched the passenger side of the engine. The accessory belt and pulleys appear to be rotating normally. I can't see the timing belt yet. I think this is good news because I was concerned that the engine was seized but now believe it is not seized.

The battery, starter, alternator and serpentine belt are only a few months old. A new water pump and timing belt were installed 50,000 miles ago. The car has about 210,000 miles now.

What would be the likely causes and next troubleshooting steps for the symptoms? Thanks!

Edited by crypticaleleven
capitilization
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I just now sprayed a shot of starter fluid into intake past the intake valve. Then I turned the ignition key. No change. No smoke or sputtering sounds. The only sound is the turning of the starter. After this starter fluid test It seems like maybe an ignition or mechanical engine failure?

I loaned a fuel pressure gauge kit from Autozone this morning but haven't used it yet. The OBD2 reader I ordered has not arrived yet.

What do yall think?

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Autozone OBD2 code tester test results are as follows:

P0117 Generic Stored - open or short in ECT sensor circuit
ECT sensor
ECM

P0017(1of 5) Generic Stored
Engine Coolant Temperature
Circuit Low input

P0117
FuelSys1 CL
FuelSys2 CL
Calc Load(%) 32.2
ECT(degree F) 275
STFT B1(%)-0.8
LTFTB1(%)8.6
STFTB2(%)0.0
LTFTB2(%)5.5
Eng RPM 2534
VehSpeed(mph)76
SparkAdv(degree)31.0
IAT(degreeF)50
MAF(lb/min)3.3
TPS(%)22.7

P0325(2of 5) Generic Stored
1. Knock Sensor 1Circuit(Bank 1Or
Single Sensor)
2. Knock Sensor 1Circuit

P0330(3of 5) Generic Stored
Knock Sensor 2 Circuit

P0325(4of 5) Generic Pending
1.Knock Sensor 1Circuit (Bank 1 Or
Single Sensor)
2. Knock Sensor 1Circuit

P0330(5of 5) Generic Pending
Knock Sensor 2 Circuit

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  • 9 months later...

Do you have a test light? 

 

This should help your track it down some what easily, as it appears their is a bad ground and your ecm went into fail safe mode to protect its self. 

If you get a test light and start testing the circuit of your electronic controlled transmission i bet you find a bad ground on one of or multiple of the lines. I think it's related to your parts change a few months ago. Check the IGT signal from the igniter and use the test light to stick it in from the wire connector side and ground the other side, if you get a light that looks like your spark plugs it works and go to distributor, if it stays on it has a loss of ground or bad connection to distributor, then check IGF this the other signal generator that if your ECU doesn't get it will go into fail safe. 

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