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2001 Lexus RX300 170,000mi.

The passenger window behaved erratically for a few weeks, meaning it wouldn't go back up without trying 10-20 times.

Finally, yesterday, it decided to ONLY GO DOWN, no matter WHICH DIRECTION the EITHER passenger or driver switch was activated.

The end result was that it was STUCK ALL THE WAY DOWN wellofcourseitdid.

Today I followed ample youtube videos to get the door panel off (BTW, the secret to getting the door-handle bezel off is to pry INSIDE the bezel just over the lock toggle and under the back of the handle, to lift plastic ears off the tabs) and to get the window off the window regulator and the regulator out of the door) and how to replace the relay on the circuit board). I discovered, SURPRISINGLY, that although the 10mm bolts holding the bottom of the window to the rail were out-of-reach with the window all the way down, I was able to LIFT the window by hand to be able to see the bolt heads through appropriate access holes. After pulling the window out of the door, by tilting it down towards the front, I was able to collapse the regulator and pull it out towards the back.

I cleaned all the movable joints with rubbing alcohol and re-greased with lithium grease. I disconnected the motor from the regulator (and found it was under spring-load) and reconnected it and the passenger-door switch-block and verified it operated with the switch. I then reconnected it to the regulator in the middle of the range of the gear and reinstalled it in the door leaving the six bolts loose. I ran the motor to locate the rail with the access holes and reinstalled the window.

I tested the switch.

WARNING: if it moves even a LITTLE, do yourself a favor and TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS at this stage.  I left them loose, and although the window raised flawlessly, when I tried the down direction, it made a HELP of a NOISE.  WIth the bolts slack, there's not enough clearance between the moving parts to avoid collision and they gripe loudly when making contact.

You'll note I did not mention replacing the relay. I didn't have one, but I did go ahead and disassemble the switch assembly from the door to get access to the circuit board. Instead, I gave the CR2-212 relay a couple of good whacks with the butt end of a screwdriver and then proceeded to clean the contacts on the circuit board AND on the rubber membrane above it. These latter contacts are pressed down to connect two pads of the circuit board and thus are conductive.  I cleaned them with rubbing alcohol and Q-tips, taking my time.

Vids I used:

I originally assumed my relay was shot and this would be my solution, but luckily I found the relay to be a little high for my taste, especially since I'd also have to de-solder to replace.  I may have to return to this--OR I could leave the STUPID window UP...

That last video contains the SECRET to getting the door-lock bezel out successfully. Pry from OUTSIDE the bezel??? FAIL... INSIDE is your friend.


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