U.S. Lex

2001 Lexus RX300 170,000mi. The passenger window behaved erratically for a few weeks, meaning it wouldn't go back up without trying 10-20 times. Finally, yesterday, it decided to ONLY GO DOWN, no matter WHICH DIRECTION the EITHER passenger or driver switch was activated. The end result was that it was STUCK ALL THE WAY DOWN wellofcourseitdid. Today I followed ample youtube videos to get the door panel off (BTW, the secret to getting the door-handle bezel off is to pry INSIDE the bezel just over the lock toggle and under the back of the handle, to lift plastic ears off the tabs) and to get the window off the window regulator and the regulator out of the door) and how to replace the relay on the circuit board). I discovered, SURPRISINGLY, that although the 10mm bolts holding the bottom of the window to the rail were out-of-reach with the window all the way down, I was able to LIFT the window by hand to be able to see the bolt heads through appropriate access holes. After pulling the window out of the door, by tilting it down towards the front, I was able to collapse the regulator and pull it out towards the back. I cleaned all the movable joints with rubbing alcohol and re-greased with lithium grease. I disconnected the motor from the regulator (and found it was under spring-load) and reconnected it and the passenger-door switch-block and verified it operated with the switch. I then reconnected it to the regulator in the middle of the range of the gear and reinstalled it in the door leaving the six bolts loose. I ran the motor to locate the rail with the access holes and reinstalled the window. I tested the switch. WARNING: if it moves even a LITTLE, do yourself a favor and TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS at this stage. I left them loose, and although the window raised flawlessly, when I tried the down direction, it made a HELP of a NOISE. WIth the bolts slack, there's not enough clearance between the moving parts to avoid collision and they gripe loudly when making contact. You'll note I did not mention replacing the relay. I didn't have one, but I did go ahead and disassemble the switch assembly from the door to get access to the circuit board. Instead, I gave the CR2-212 relay a couple of good whacks with the butt end of a screwdriver and then proceeded to clean the contacts on the circuit board AND on the rubber membrane above it. These latter contacts are pressed down to connect two pads of the circuit board and thus are conductive. I cleaned them with rubbing alcohol and Q-tips, taking my time. Vids I used: I originally assumed my relay was shot and this would be my solution, but luckily I found the relay to be a little high for my taste, especially since I'd also have to de-solder to replace. I may have to return to this--OR I could leave the STUPID window UP... That last video contains the SECRET to getting the door-lock bezel out successfully. Pry from OUTSIDE the bezel??? FAIL... INSIDE is your friend.

Trying to follow a friend's advice to "disable the ABS by yanking the 60A ABS fuse/fusible link in the engine-compartment fusebox", I promptly shattered it--because he nor I knew it comes bolted in--and from below. (Once again, thank you, engineers who don't work on what you design.) I posted this as a reply on another forum, but decided the info was rare enough on the web that it should be here as well. (The Lexus mechanic confirmed that a lot of the specifics were missing from his computerized shop manual.) Re: the pix 1. The engine-compartment fusebox is actually a "split box," an upper half snapped into 3 tabs on the lower half and bolted to the fender well with M6x1.0 bolts (10mm). The label inside the box cover identifies the ABS fuse as the one in the upper left. It's yellow. It is held in by two small bolts underneath. The box must be separated and the internal module holding the high-current fuses dropped out from below. 2. The internal module is snapped and held in place by three internal tabs. A reasonably sized flat-blade screwdriver is enough to release all the tabs (including the external ones). At least some of the connectors to the upper half might have to be disconnected to get enough slack to drop the module out and get access to the screws. (Several electrical diagrams I looked at indicated a 7.5A "ABS 3" fuse was located at the top of the 3-fuse column to the right of the main fuses. When the upper half is off, one can see there's no electrical connections to that area.) Incidentally, the upper-left shows what happens to a fragile 60A fusible link when attacked with pliers because one doesn't even suspect it might be bolted in. (I actually Dremeled it, thinking I could see how it was held in. The screws are through the sides of the conductor tabs, not into the body.) 3. The screws are revealed. They have 10mm heads. Probably want to torque them well if you haven't enjoyed the journey this far. Please don't drop either one of these. For heaven's sake, treat them as if your father were watching you handle them. 4. If activity has lifted the lower half of the fusebox, you may notice that the mounting hole to the front of the vehicle is impossible to align to bolt the box back onto the fender well. I found a "locator foot" molded into the bottom of the lower half of the fusebox and that it was outside of its locator hole, causing the entire box to stand about 1/2" too high. There just wasn't enough working room for me to "influence" the foot back into its hole. In the end, I had to remove the battery, and even then found the task difficult. Before I accidentally got it in, I was contemplating sawing it off... When the holes finally lined up, I immediately dropped one of the mounting bolts which wedged itself under the air filter so I had to go to town to get a replacement. Don't drop either of these either. This is tough enough without suffering your own carelessness.

When I went in for a replacement ABS fusible link, a most helpful Lexus mechanic volunteered the opinion that "a reluctor ring had come loose and was rotating freely" causing the computer to make bad ABS decisions based on bad information. He also confirmed the solution would be an axle replacement and it would be "pricey." (Currently looking for "How to Disable ABS (and return to the Uncomplicated 1950s)")

Because I shattered the 60A fuse trying to take it out in the first place, I opted to take a Dremel grinder to it, on a whim that the rumored "screw" was probably in the bottom center. I figured if I could free the case from the central screw I could pull it out and deal with the screw later. (Those who already know the answer will recognize the futility of this.) In the end, I reamed out the entire, empty center, and proceeded to saw the case in half, hoping the holding screw would be in one side or the other. (More head-shaking by those who've seen the fuse.) Nope, still held fast. I broke down and unbolted the fusebox from the fender well, removed the lid, and then unclipped the top half of the box from the bottom half. There's nowhere near enough slack in the wiring to flip the top over to be able to see the situation under the 60A fuse, so disconnecting enough connectors to get slack is a must. Even at that, I still cannot see the (may I say it please, "!Removed!!") screws (the Lexus mechanic said he thought it was an 8mm and a 10mm holding it in place). I met the mechanic when I went to the Lexus parts counter to order a new one. (The young attendant told me he googled to get the part number first so he could enter that into his parts catalog :^) ). When you see it (attached), you too will know why it Sucks So Bad. Toyota calls it a Fusible Link: Toyota (90982-08202). If anyone ever figures out how to get to the bolts/screws/whatever, please contact me, no matter how many years in the future it is: I'll still be trying to figure it out...

The 2001 Lexus RX300 Owner's Manual says in a footnote (p. 15): Does anyone know how to accomplish this? Thank you.

Back to report that, a day later, the vehicle had forgotten/erased/ignored the codes again. Opening the door after unlocking the vehicle manually sets off the security alarm. Thank you anyone for a suggestion.

And... I just had it to a locksmith who used a tablet computer (he called it an "Autel" and said it's what most use) to connect to the OBD port. He first said it would not communicate with the vehicle. After trying several things, he declared that none of them returned a successful message and that the problem was likely "a computer problem: either the computer is bad, or possibly, has already been replaced." (I don't actually see how the latter would explain not communicating...) However, as an afterthought, he clicked the lock and unlock buttons on the keys. Both worked... and he wouldn't take any money because he said, "I didn't DO anything! Everything I tried did not respond!" The problem remains that I don't know if this latest "fix" will last any longer than the earlier successes I've had. If accidentally it does, be assured I'll track him down again and pay up. ...and probably bake him a cake. I must say however that as a new "old Lexus" owner, I'm beginning to believe in spooks.

Re: the first question, I did find this, from which I quote (thanks, Colin): This answers my first question, and may answer my second in that it appears the registered transmitter codes may be being erased (Prohibition Mode) inadvertently. It looks like trying to get into Confirmation Mode would be a good next step, followed by another attempt at programming, in Rewrite Mode if necessary.

I have two questions. The first is "What's the difference between 'ADD' and 'REWRITE' modes, referring to programming a Lexus key?" The second is "What might explain a vehicle's 'forgetting' a key which worked mere minutes before?" I'm a new "old 2001 Lexus RX300" owner, acquiring the car from a friend. He handed over two keys, one an original and the second a Denso replacement got from ebay seller, 1010keys. Both start the vehicle. He left the remote lock/unlock programming to me. I found, a few, guides for how to do it (I mention "five lock/unlock cycles" for reference) and have successfully programmed both keys (a number of times). It seems however that some thing is undoing/erasing the programming. After a time, typically shorter than one day, the vehicle stops responding to both keys, and has to be unlocked manually--WHICH, sad to say, SETS OFF THE SECURITY ALARM[1] (intentionally SHOUTING here)! I first thought I had been doing it myself, unintentionally, by accidentally following a test sequence after programming of "lock/unlock/lock/unlock/lock" which results immediately in disabling both keys. However, my last test was to lock the car with the remote in the evening, unlock it with the remote in the morning, drive it, lock it manually with the switch on the driver door. Returning later, the vehicle would not respond to the remote and had to be opened manually with the key WHICH, you guessed it, SET OFF THE SECURITY ALARM. I've now found a variation on the programming sequence which I will try. The difference seems to be whether the door is CLOSED or OPEN when the key is inserted into the ignition. [1] for those new to the situation, the solution is to put the key into the ignition, with HORNS BLARING, and turn it to the ON position to shut off the alarm. However, it will do it again the next time the car is unlocked manually, until the key is programmed--and you know, actually "remembered" by the car...

I just had the same experience. I made a right turn into a parking lot and had driven about 100 feet when I heard a mechanical noise, like I ran over something, followed by the immediate locking of the right rear wheel. The wheel was dragging and I fully expected to find a blown tire. Instead, witnesses said the wheel simply wasn't turning, but was dragging. I turned the car off, and not knowing anything else to do, started it, backed it up a foot and then forward. The wheel unlocked and I was able to drive it, 30 miles, home with no recurrence, but much trepidation. On a couple of other turns, I noticed the right rear wheel spinning out as if it was getting far more traction than the left, and that's made me suspect the differential.