Ross W.

Thanks! When a mechanic confidently told me under the right front seat..... well..... :chairshot: I'm pulling the trunk panels anyway, both for wiring purposes and a general cleanup!

Thanks again folks for all your help. One thing I can't find solid info on is where the factory amp is located? I ask 5 different techs and I get 5 different answers! One says under the front seat, another says in the trunk, etc.!!

Thanks! Already considering that. I've been darkly muttering to myself that I need to scour the yards for goodies!

Okay, now here's where I'm going to push the limit: Is there a source for an unloaded connector that will plug into the amp end of the harness, so I can stab in my own adapter? I'd like to keep the original amp for future bargaining chips, otherwise I'd de-solder the input plug from the board and use it. I certainly don't want to cut up the original chassis harness!

Check your sway-bar end links and any similar ball-joint type link on the hub or chassis side of the suspension. Could be you've got one that's run out of grease or had water intrusion. Not always readily visible and often intermittent.

Awesome folks! I really appreciate the efforts and advice!

Good point. I'll take that into very serious consideration. I'll be running an amp that delivers 150w / channel so 16 awg wire is fine. Does anybody have a pin-out of the harness plugs at the amp end? That would be a great help!

Thanks! I did track down the correct harness adapter last night; Metra 70-8112 @ Sonic Electronix, $14.95, and I should have it in a few days. It's designed to have an aftermarket head-unit feed the Nak amp, but that amp is blown. However the adapter will help me weasel out the signal & speaker leads in the factory harness so I can run an aftermarket amp in the trunk, which is where the factory amp is located? In the end though I'd like to upgrade all the wiring at some point, but I can at least get the new stuff up and running. Great help!

Hi all Been quite awhile since I last was here. Been really busy. Anyway, the factory Nakamichi audio sys. conked out about 18 months ago, which started me saving for a new system. I bought a Metra double-DIN install kit for it. The supplied harness adapters don't fit the chassis harness plugs. I've been trying to reach their tech dept but I can't get through. I'll send them an email later. I've heard conflicting stories that the Nak system has an outboard amp(s) OR it's all in the head unit. Either way, nothing fits! I'll probably end up wiring up the new unit the old fashioned way, but running speaker cables into the doors and power leads from the batt. does not look like a straightforward job. I'll be using the new unit's onboard amps for now. So if anybody has any advice for me, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks!

Probably because I'm too neurotic for my own good, ( ) but considering it's likely one coil has failed, why not go the extra mile, and replace both? That way you'll have two "zero time" coils. I also recommend, while you're in there, to replace the ignition wires and plugs as well.

For bushings, get the Daizen polyurethane set. There are other poly mfrs out there though; perhaps other members could shed some light? For shocks, I've had good results with KYBs over the years, but Tokicos are excellent too. At this point I'd also recommend replacing the rear carrier bushings too. Poly are available. HTH!

Should've written tire.... my bad.... Going from a 15" rim to a 20" is a big step.... really big...... :o Make sure that the tire you chose is the right aspect ratio for sure! It must be very close, or the same, outside diameter as the original equipment tire's outside diameter, otherwise you'll get rubbing issues for sure, along with incorrect speedometer readings, which could also affect the ECU, if it relies on vehicle speed input. As Smooth pointed out, there is quite a variance in suspension measurements, both from manufacturing tolerances and age/mileage.

As long as the outside diameter of the tire is the same as the original '92's 15" rim, there shouldn't be too much of an issue. I have 18's on my car that are 1" wider than stock, and they rub a little. But it's the extra width causing the issue, in part, for my car. There is more weight, naturally, on the left front of the car, therefore, more wear. I'd suggest new shocks, upper cushions, and check the bushings & ball joints. My car needs all that done, and yes the left front rubs more.

OBD 1 as well. It was part of the Federal mandate that data logging fault codes would be part of computerized engine controls from 1981 or '82 onwards. Handheld scanners came to be about ten years later. Before that the smog machine or a PC with the appropriate software showed it, or more commonly, jumpering certain pins on the diagnostic port would cause the check engine light to flash the codes. Your car is that way. But I like the scan tool better! I noticed that you mentioned not much heat from your climate control. Check the engine temperature guage. Fully warmed up, it should read about 1/8" above the midline on the guage. If not, replace the thermostat. Use a genuine Toyota 'stat! I've had too many aftermarket ones fail in my travels to trust them.

Congratulations! See if you can borrow or rent a scan tool from an auto parts store. For your CD changer, try a cleaning disc. Mine used to skip from time to time, and that seemed to help. Sometimes condensation on a cold morning would fog the lenses up too, but after awhile that would go away.