larryp

I agree. More than likely it's the alternator - especially when new batteries fix the problem.

The lights to the inside of the headlights are the fog lights, and yes there's a switch that controls those. On my 91 they are yellow when on. The lights to the outside of the headlights are the corner lights. They stay on when the lights are on. Probably yours are burnt out.

if the key turns the ignition, then it's not the problem. What happens when you try to start? Does it turn over? Any background on the car's history? We'll need more info to try to help.

Welcome to the club Sounds like your seat belt is normal. It will retract and lock in case of a collision. Don't think premium fuel will fix your problem but it won't hurt to try. I ran regular in mine for 4 years and 120k miles with no problems. Need to pull the check engine code to see what it's trying to tell you. Probably EFI related. Check lexls.com for some great info on maintaining your LS.

I agree w/ landar's recommendations. i'd probably start by pulling the plugs and checking them when it won't start. Look for "wet" condition - plugs fouled by too much fuel. Could be once it has sat for a while the plugs are drying out enough to fire. Just my $.02.

Welcome Eddie! Check out the sticky on LS400 Buying Guide. Should answer most of your questions.

According to the service manual there is only one fuel pressure regulator and it should read at 41psi.

I'm no chemist but even the replacement compressor i got was stamped with R134 only. They obviously have different chemical makeups so one would assume all of the warnings about mixing the 2 have some merit - but i can't attest to it personally. If they are compatible then i wasted a bunch of time and effort swapping out the o-rings :cries:

Agreed, seconded. I'll 3rd that. I think you need to drop the "highly regarded" from his title. Compressors are designed to run on R134a. When a conversion is done it's important to get all of the r12 out of the system since the 2 refrigerants are not compatible. Also important to use the right kind and amount of compressor oil. I also replaced all the o-rings when i did mine. May have been overkill but many recommend it. I suspect that there was something missed on your original conversion to R134. Check out Tech Choice Parts, or AC Parts Now. I bought AC parts from both places and was happy with prices and service. Then find another reputable mechanic.

There's nothing that says they have to be all changed at the same time, but i would at least do plugs, cap, and rotor together. However, if you plan on doing the timing belt soon, i'd do them all at the same time - will save you a couple of steps overall since the covers, cap and rotor all have to be removed for the timing belt. I'd defintely go OEM.

See earlier post. Should answer your questions.

Check out the tutorials section of lexls.com. Great stuff.

Contact the Better Business Bureau and see if they are a member. You are getting taken for a ride as a result of shoddy work. Talk with the owner if you haven't already and raise hell. No heat is probably a result of low coolant. I'm not a master mechanic, but i'm pretty sure a camshaft position sensor error wouldn't have anything to do with distributor cap, rotor, or plug wires. A sudden coolant leak after a major repair job would be a huge coincidence don't you think? Not sure why it would be leaking from the rear of the engine as any issues with water pump replacement would normally show up near the front of the engine. Obvious from their responses that they are trying to take you to the cleaners and don't really have a clue as to what is wrong. Good luck.

Couldn't find 63 or 67 in my list of trbl codes. Code 55 is indicating a problem with the knock sensor on bank 2 (passenger side) cylinders. The causes according to the manual are a short in the circuit to bank 2, a loose sensor, or an ECU problem. Don't have any personal experience with this fault so maybe others will chime in with more info.

Start by pulling the plugs and checking for "wet" plugs which is a sign of unburnt fuel. Make sure to note which cylinder each plug is removed from. If only one plug is bad, you may have a bad plug, spark plug wire to that plug, a distributor cap problem, or a stuck injector. If more than one are bad, you may have a bad coil, distributor, or distributor cap & rotor. There are 2 coils and 2 distributors, so if it's coil or distributor related affecting several cylinders, you'll be able to trace the bad plugs to one coil or distributor. Without any other information, my wild a$$ guess is your timing belt is slightly off causing improper firing (and excess fuel being sent out the exhaust).