ricco750

I would highly recommend an RX...a 330 or newer 350.  You'll note I have a 99 RX300, which I have owned for 10 years, and have made significant improvements on over those years, but I would not recommend you buy one over 10 years old.  The RXs are easy to get in and out of, and have luxury class appointments throughout.  I'm 72, and don't like vehicles that I have to "fall in" for entry and "climb out" for exit.  Regarding hybrids, I stay away from those.  The technology is still evolving, and is very expensive to fix when it goes awry.  And you don't need to always go to a Lexus Dealership for service...unless you always want to pay more than you should.  A good independent shop is better for all but the most major repairs, such as engine and transmission, and even then there are Independents who do excellent work...you just have to find them.  Stay away from the major chain places like Firestone, PepBoys, Jiffy Lube, etc...find a place that is family oriented, and that know you and your car.

I went with the Lexus OEM springs and KYB struts.  I also replaced Control Arms, Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends, Ball Joints, and Stabilizer Sway Bar End Links.  Pretty much the entire suspension.  I could not be more pleased with the change in handling and ride.  Corners much better, very little dive in a tight fast turn, and the ride is just a tad bit firmer.  The "worth" is a judgment call...I had a new short block in 2009, and the interior and exterior look like a car that is just a few years old.  Compared to the cost of a new or newer RX, I think my money was well spent.  Plus, my RX also serves as a "hobby" for me, and the little stuff that comes up is interesting to fix.  For instance...and I had been waiting for this to happen...I looked out in the garage yesterday to see my radio antenna in the "up" position, signaling that a new antenna mast is needed.  Good luck with your endeavor.

On ‎6‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 3:29 AM, Ugo said:

hi everyone. i am kinda of a newbie here and this is my first post. my 2000 RX300 developed a problem recently. it starts fine, but then it dies immediately. unless i kept giving it gas for up to 20-30 seconds. this does not happen if i restart it immediately after driving with a warm engine. every other thing fine once it is running, though it stalls and tries to die if it alone long at a traffic stop. i have followed the steps of cleaning out the idle air control valve (IACV) and it moves freely, and the throttle body, yet the problem persists. the fuel pumps ohms out well and the pressure is good. my small research led me to suspect the fuel pump resistor, which is said to control fuel pump at low load (apparently the pump relay shunts a reduced voltages to the FP through this resistor at low loads, like immediately after starting). problem is i cant seem to find this part. where is the fuel pump resistor located in rx300?. a pic will be a mighty help. Thanks.

UGO, I noticed you have not been overwhelmed with replies and suggestions.  I have had the same problem with my '99 RX and my "02 Toyota HL V6.  Yes, the IAC cleaning helped a little, but then the problem returned.  The only thing that really "fixed" it was to replace...as in new...IAC valves.  I used the ones made by Intermotor, and they worked fine.  Now, if you have already fixed the problem by fixing the "fuel pump resistor", please let us know.  Good luck.

Well, I ended up having to buy them from Lexus, to the tune of about $700 before tax.  Now I'm just waiting for the install appointment at my favorite shop for a complete replacement of my steering and suspension components.  Between Lexus and RockAuto, I've got about two grand in parts on my living room floor.  

I'm trying to find some OE springs for my '99 RX AWD, but other than getting them from Lexus at a hefty price, I can't find anything on the web.  Not even MOOG makes them.  I found the H&R lowering springs, but don't really want the car any lower,  I read somewhere that RAV4 springs were identical, but don't know the year, or if that's true.  I'm doing a major R/R on my suspension and steering at a good shop, and my mechanic suggested new springs as well.  The springs will be hosting new KYB's. I have also read that some people think that if the car has not towed heavy loads, the springs should be OK.  Does anyone have any information about the whereabouts of OE springs?

The first place I would start is by cleaning the IAC valve.

When I push and hold the AC button the AC works fine. But when I let go of the AC button the AC quits. Is there a relay somewhere that operates the AC?

Thanks,

Joel

I found this question interesting, so went out to the garage and popped the hood on my '99 RX, opened the fuse box on the right...could not find any relay that specifically said "AC relay". So I looked at the wiring schematic in my Haynes manual for the AC system, and it's pretty complicated, and of course even involves the ECU as part of the "team".

Right off hand, I would think that if you had a "bad relay", that pushing and holding the "AC button" would not turn on the AC. I had a problem like this on my wife's '02 Toyota HL, and the fix was a new HVAC Control Unit to the tune of $687 back in '07.

Hope this helps.

Maybe you have fixed this by now, but it sounds like a bad TPS

http://www.buzzle.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-throttle-position-sensor.html

Have you considered sheepskin seat and armrest covers ? I have them on my '99RX just for the comfort...there was no problem with the original seat and armrest covers, but I got spoiled by sheepskin covers over 20 years ago, and can't go without them.

I have a 2000 RX300 that has a noise under the dash. It sounds like a CD changer trying to load CDs. I think I saw on a post that it was something to do with the AC servos, relays or whatever. does anybody have the info what it is , and how to fix it? Thanks.

Try this link.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-generation/293932-rx300-fan-noise-blend-door-motor.html

Dear Forum members,

On my wife's RX-300 she noticed kind of sreeching/chriping noise coming from somewhere behind the glove box. Initially I thought it comes from the cassette player, but I removed the cassette block and the noise was the same. Then I realized that It comes most likely from the blower or may be servo-motors, but the strange thing the noise is there as soon as the engine running and is probably the same where fan works or not.

I drove her car for couple of days and it is very annoying.

Have you experienced similar issue and if you did, how easy it is to get to the blower bearings (if it is the issue).

Really appreciate your input.

Thank you.

First, you need to isolate the problem. If it is the blower, that can be determined by going through all the fan speeds while the car is idling. If the noise changes, the problem is most likely the blower...and you cannot "get to the bearings", as they are sealed, and a blower replacement would be necessary. It also could be some debris in the fan cage itself.

But if the blower and fan cage are not the problem, then it's most likely the servos that operate the blend doors for the climate control system. They are not cheap to replace, but are relatively easy to remove and rebuild, and there are threads on the forum to help with this. I had this problem with my "99 RX...the noise was a clicking and clacking that sounded like the CD changer was searching for a disc, but it turned out to be the servos.

An inexpensive mechanic's stethescope will help with the diagnosis.

I am sorry if this has been dealt with in the forum before. I am a new member. We have bought our 1999 RX300 with 26,000 miles on it and now has 92,000. We have dealt with the same dealer for the past 30,000 miles or so. Anyway, the 90,000 mile service suggests a timing belt change and an "complete engine service" which includes a transmission flush. So since we want to keep the care for another 2-5 year or so I agreed to the complete engine service instead of the routine oil change etc.

We got a call the next day and the dealer said the there are now warning lights about the transmission after the flush probably caused by "plates shedding dirty material". Shouldn't the dealer have warned us about the possiblity of a problem caused by an engine flush. The transmission was working fine before we took it in.

Any recourse thoughts etc would be appreciated. Should we look for a rebuilt trans?

This has been a notorious issue on both Lexus sites I visit. The consensus of the majority of the members is to NEVER do a flush, but do a simple drain and refill.

If this had happened to me, I would hold the dealer culpable and expect a financial partnership in the repair/replacement of my transaxle.

My wife and I recently bought a used RX300 around February of this year and got all the fluids changed, brakes done, it was running good. One day she was driving home from work and the oil light started flashing then went solid (she did not say what color the light was). She pulled off to the side of the road and shut off the car, once she restarted the car had a kocking noise, and when you turn it off it sounds like metal is rubbing.

My question is, has anyone had this problem before and what was the outcome?

I really do not want to try to find a new engine, hope it is something I can repair.

Unless you rebuild engines, I doubt it is something you can repair. And that "knocking" noise is probably a rod knock. You should definitely not drive it, and it should be towed to a shop.

My "99 RX threw a rod though the oil pan at 109,000 miles. It was my mother-in-law's car at the time, had been cared for very well, and was being driven at a highway speed when it happened. I was not driving the car at the time, so I don't know if the oil pressure light was on...it was being driven by my brother-in-law, who tends to ignore stuff like CEL's and such.

Anyway, I bought the car after that, and Lexus put in a new short block, and gave me a 25% reduction in the parts. Still, the total bill was about 7 grand. The crankshaft bearings on the old block were blue from friction heat, so there had to be an oil starvation problem, but the original cause, be it low oil level or a bad oil pump, or a restriction somewhere...was never determined.

Anyway, I hope you have a good relationship with your wallet, because you are probably about to ask for a favor! Good Luck.

The poly bushings are favorites of the off-road guys. I definitely would not mix poly and rubber, and if I were (subjunctive) to replace the bushings on my RX, I would go with rubber.

I'm assuming you know that the poly bushings make the ride stiffer, not as comfy?

Is this what you are looking for?

http://www.mylparts.com/parts/1999/LEXUS/RX300/?siteid=214992&vehicleid=1356106&diagram=8912170

How did you rebuild the mini speakers?

Sorry if my post was confusing...I did not rebuild the speakers. I attempted to fix their rattling by wedging pieces of an old bike tube between the spaces of the cowl and the speaker housing. It has proved to be a temporary fix, necessitating repeating the fix every year or so. I wish I knew how to remove those speakers to more closely examine their attachment mechanism. They probably just pop out, but I don't want to take a chance of breaking them.

I did rebuild the AC servos...I believe I put a post on the site about that...there are others who have posted as well. I think I did that job in 2009.

I seem to hear it when I'm stopped.only. What are Tweeters and the climate control? I do not have the heat or ac on.

Tweeters are the high frequency stereo speakers mounted on top of the dash, left and right. You do not have to have the heat or AC on to have problems with those pesky servos. I rebuilt two of mine and that fixed the problem. It is a common problem in the early RX's...many folks think that it's the CD player trying to load a disc.

Does it happen only when the car is moving, especially over bumps? If so, it's probably the tweeters rattling. If it happens even when the car is stopped, it might be the servos for the climate control system.

And, the nail solution is...? Thanks

See if this link works for you...it's a post I put on the Toyota forum.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/83-1st-generation-2001-2007/406410-drooping-sunvisor-fix-final-chapter-me.html

Are you familiar with the "nail" solution...it worked perfectly for me on my '99RX.

What is the best way to go.....re-man part or factory new? I know price is a big diff, but what about quality? I was told to look for orig used from salvage or bite the bullet and spend $$ for OEM. I don't know if it is true but was told non orig part does not have Platinum is why $$ is lower and the resistance will be diff and give the computer odd readings. Thanks for any input.

Over the last 15 years or so, I have had bad luck with reman'd MAF sensors on various vehicles. If the MAF on my RX goes bad, I will replace it with a new one.

Judy, I had to read your post several times (it's early, I'm sleepy) to try to get an idea of what your question is.

First and foremost, I would not mix different types of rotors and pads, i.e. slotted rotors in the rear, another type in the front...and the same with the pads type. On my '99RX, I am running ceramic pads with the stock rotors, but eventually plan to install new slotted rotors all around and new ceramic pads, with powder-coated calipers (for looks), all from brakeperformance.com. I have bought from this company several times over the past 5 years, and like doing business with them. I installed their slotted rotors and ceramic pads on my wife's '02 Highlander over two years ago, and they are in perfect condition...and she is hard on brakes.

The general info on cross-drilled rotors is that they should not be used with "regular" driving needs, as they are primarily designed for high-performance driving. If you go to the website for PowerSlot brakes, they have some useful videos to watch.

I hope this is helpful with your questions.

"Door lock"? We need more info, please. Try the following link to see if it will get you started.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-generation/583853-rx300-diy-door-lock-actuator-fix-write-up.html

Thanks for the reply. Obviously best bet is to change fluids in intervals but I did not receive this vehicle until it had 140,000 miles on it. My only fear is that since it's been so many miles without changing it that flushing it out is going to be an issue. I know that when you don't do tranny flushes it can get to the point where the viscosity of the fluid is holding parts together, and I'm worried the same applies to the differential.

The rear diff is a totally different mechanical mechanism than the transmission. It's sturdy and tough. Go ahead and change the fluid. A lot of folks like the Royal Purple brand of diff lube...I use Castrol synthetic in my RX300 and it works fine. Check a manual to see if you need a limited slip additive as well. Make sure that you can begin to unscrew the top (fill) plug before you drain it!