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I just tried to get my car inspected and got rejected because the O2 sensor was bad. The report said it was, "Bank 1 - Sensor 2". So is this the sensor in the front or back? Autozone sells the short and long one, which one is it? And how hard is it to replace it.

ok this has been bugging me out for the past couple of days. im having a hard time getting sound to my new radio, i bought the metra harness for it and still no luck... i tried to strip some of the wires for left and right front speakers and no luck either... what should i do next? should i just take it to best buy or circuit city?

u have to use the TYTO -01 kit. u won't be able to find it at any local stores, u'll have to order it online. then when u get it, u'll have to reconfigure some wires in the harness to make it work. circuit city installed mine and he found out all the info he needed in some forum, not sure.

I tried installing an after market cd player this weekend and had some complications. I used the correct wire harness, Metra 8113 and everything hooked up correctly. But there is no sound going through. Someone told me that I have to bypass the factory amp to resolve that issue. Is that true? Or is there another way to correct that issue. Please help if anyone has any suggestions or tutorials. thanks

I think you posted this in the wrong forum. IF you have an LS this is the IS 300 forum. Maybe the electronics forum would help to.

I'm not familiar with the LS CD players. I can tell you the IS 300 CD players had alot of issues also, but they didn't pertain to burned CD's only.

Can a mod move this to the correct forum?

I currently own an 01' IS300, I am having issues with the head deck on the IS300. I was just referring to the LS400, I "use" to have.

I am having problems with playing burn cd's with the factory head deck. I used to own an older LS400 and had the same issues. But with the LS, there were certain brands that worked and some that didn't. Any recommendations on how to make burned cd's work on the factory head deck or any specific brand?

To answer the questions: 90' with ruffly 220,000, and I use Exxon, Chevron, or Shell premium gas.

do you have a check engine light on? when the knocking occurs? when you press the gas pedal or you hear it on a permanent basis?

Well I disabled my check engine light when I install a new instrument cluster, because it stayed on all the time. It starts to knock when I give it gas.

I have noticed that my engine makes a weird knocking noise when I am driving it. I don't know exactly what it is and was told that higher octane fuel will help remedy that. But since it is a LS, the highest octane is required already. So what is the next step up to take care of this problem. Please help.

Here's my situation, my master switch is not able to control the rear passenger window. I am able to control the front passenger side window from the master switch but not by the front passenger side itself. The lock from the front passenger side can only be open either manually or with a key on the outside. Even the master switch can not open it, not even the keyless entry. You'll also have to lock it manually, or it'll stay open even when you lock it by remote. I am assuming that I'll have to replace the switches, so any one have an idea of how much this is gonna cost me. Thanks

I too have a 90 LS, Pearl White with grey interior, and am considering adding window tint and new wheels. What or who's tinting did you folks go with? With after market wheels, ride comfort will be compromised as you go up in wheel diameter over the stock 15". Thanks for your help with the window tinting.

- Mike

I had mine done at a shop that only does 3M high performance metalic tint. Just remember if it's not metalic, there's a good chance that it will turn purple.

I actually did some pimping on my 90' LS already. I added a body kit, custom pearl paint job(got rid of the two tone grey), subs/amps, tinted windows, remote start alarm, and 18" rims. Although rims do compliment your car very well, be aware of the hazards. There are some many new highway constrution going on right now and so many potential accidents. I already cracked one rim and bent the other. I am still debating if the rims are worth the trouble. You will have to sacrifice the ride quality and slow down almost to a complete stop at every pot hole or crack in the road. So in other words if your not a speed demon, you shouldn't have a problem. Personally I wouldn't recommend 19" because are more expensive and require lower profile tires, might as well get 20" it will actually be cheaper for tires. But like I said, they do look good. :D

I agree, it was probably installed by a previous owner. The remote start function can be combined with any factory remote. All that needs to be done is hook up relays and progam the remote. I have an aftermarker remote starter myself and I love it. Warm it up when it's cold and cool it down when it's hot without having to leave your house.

I own a 90' model and I'm wondering is there a big difference for the power button. When I have it on, I noticed that it shifts harder and has more of a jerking acceleration. Will it use more gas? Is it bad to have it on, on a regular basis? What's the real purpose of it?

This weekend I ran over some debris and got a hole in my exhaust filter. After that I started smelling exhaust fumes in my car and had no power in my accelleration at all. I was only able to go about 20-30 mph. I took it to the exhaust shop and was told that my exhaust system was still fine. But they noticed that my catalac converter(I think that's how you spell it) was glowing red. So they say that either there is too much gas going thru or not enough. But I did noticed that I'm down almost half a tank of gas with only 75 miles. So I'm thinking somehow its buring to much gas and is causing the catalac converter to clog up to close down. Please help, I am taking it to the mechanic today to get it checked out. I would like to know what the problem is before I take it to him. Thanks

When I was younger I knew people that could steal any car with just a simple flat head screw driver and I know they are still doing it today. Lexus, BMW, and Mercedes just to name a few.

Try, http://taprecycling.net/.

I have the same problem, as you probably noticed I think it's a gas tank behind the seat. That does not allow much sound in at all. I don't think there is a real solution to the problem. I'll be interested also if any one knows how to overcome it.

i got sick and tired of not having enough bass so i went after market.

i got a 1200.1 kicker amp and 2 kicker soloberic L5 12 ". the box was built to spec but the bass is having trouble coming inside the car. i am sure it is a common probledm any solutions please hellp. thanks. and yes i removed the stock subwoofer.

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I had the same problem about 9 months ago. The cause of the problem is the "idle speed control valve". A very expensive part, about 600.00 to 800.00. Or hopefully you know a very good mechanic that can adjust the valve and just charge you for labor like he did for me. Also might as well clean out the throttle body while your at it.

Looking to buy some wheels for my LS, but I refuse to sacrifice my ride quality for size.  I wanted to go w/ 19's but I hear 20's absolutely destroy the ride.  I would also be willing to do 18's.  Does anyone have one w/ 18's or 19's and is their ride still good? 

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I have 18" on my car and I wish that I would have stuck with stock. You will sacrafice ride quality because of the low profile tires. I have already cracked my front wheel and bent the back one on a pot hole. If I were you I would seriously consider ride quality and also being scared of every bump in the road.

I agree with getting a salvage part, it'll save you some money and work just as well. I would recommend http://www.taprecycling.net/ also. I've just purchased an instrument cluster from them and it works fine.

I have a 90 LS 400, when I had the starter done I had about 200,000 miles on it.

Be prepared to pay alot of money to get it done. It's not a simple task at all, from what I've been told you will have to remove your whole intake mandifold and ect.

Sorry to hear about it, I just had it done last year.

It's might be a jammed cd in your cd changer. Happened to me and I had to yank my cd magazine out and there was two cd's in one spot that caused the jam.

I have the same problem with my shift knob, the leather just just ugly, i got a quote from that stitch place and it was ridiculous. Does anyone know of a decent aftermarket one?

Well I tried to repair it myself but ended up damaging it even more. My rpm needle went dead so I approached it from the front by taking off the glass but in the process broke it. I put the needle back in and it worked fine until I had it detailed, that's when whoever cleaned it didn't realize that there was no glass and knocked the needle off and broke it agian. No it doesn't work at all. So now I just want to replace the whole thing. thanks for the response everyone