Jump to content

ryan_h

Regular Member
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by ryan_h

  1. SORRY! GUYS! Idle Air Control Valve was the problem..... THATS IT! Should take you about 30-45 mins to fix :).

    why was your IACV not a problem before you disconnected the battery?

    steviej

    Just a guess- its probably because of the way they work- they allow a certain amount of air in and mine was covered in carbon. The computer over time had told it to open more to compensate for the carbon, however when I disconnected the battery, I assume that the computer was saying "hey, you cant open that far that fast! I am just idling!"

  2. I will have to try disconnecting the battery & NO! I do not have the lockout switch activated :). Thats the first thing I checked! Ha... Sorry for no response... I have been on vacation :). The door slamming idea, while novel, and completely understandable did not work as I figured it wouldn't because of my luck. Will update as soon as I have tried something new :).

  3. This one is a bit odd. I walked out to my 2002 ES300 the other day, pushed and held the door unlock button to open the windows and sunroof.... front windows went down, sunroof opened... but BOTH rear windows stayed up. I got in the car and tried to push the interior switch- they may the small noise (almost a very faint click- same as all other windows in the car and on my older ES) that they do when they first open (the mechanical noise of the motor requesting the windows to go down), but the rear windows don't go down. Same thing happens if you push the window buttons in the back seat - slight, normal noise, and no window movement.

    Is it not odd that seemingly both motors would go out on the exact same day at the exact same time? I don't think thats possible... I haven't checked the fuses yet, but correct me if I am wrong, if the fuse was blown I would hear NO Noise from them ....

    Please advise :) and thanks in advance.

    Ryan

  4. ryan h,

    Your problem started when you disconnected the battery, and then reconnected it. I suspect that that is the source of your problem. All kinds of crazy electrical goings on can occur when improper voltages are supplied in modern cars. I would double check your battery connections to ensure that you don't have any corrosion and that they are making good contact. Then I would follow your Lexus Tech's advice one more time. If that doesn't do the trick, it may be prudent to just bite the bullet and let them track down your problem. By the way, an idle of 200 rpms is way to low. It should be in the range of 750 - 800 without the air conditioning on on most cars. Good Luck!

    Yeah, I knew 200 was low, I was thinking around 650 to 800 myself. I had been running 87 octane gasoline and put in 14 gallons of 93, which helped somewhat, and took it on a 100 mile interstate trip. It **HELPED** but not much at all. I think I am going to clean the idle air control valve tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I am taking it in. Unless anyone has any other ideas! Thanks though! I will keep you all posted as to what it is!

    Ryan

  5. Today, I replaced the drivers side headlight on my 2002 es300. to do so, I had to disconnect the battery to see what I was doing and fit my hand. When I reconnected the battery and went to start the car, it started as normal for about 1 second, then died. I then found out I could keep it alive by holding down the gas (try having to drive 20 miles attempting to keep the car alive this way). Any ideas? Called the dealership this afternoon and the guy in the service department told me to keep the car idling around 650 rpm for 10-15 minutes and the car would relearn correct fuel/air ratios. Did this to no avail. No Check Engine light, car runs fine and always has until disconnecting the battery. HELP!

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership