rlx101

'02-04 is interference type engine - 100%.

found this while looking at some VIP projects. anyone speaks japanese here? lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVW_e6196os...feature=related

if you drive mostly in stop and go traffic then such low mpg's are not surprise. remember when you are at a stop light you are getting 0 mpg.

agreed. last thing you want is messed up bumber color AND quater panel!

Take it to another bodyshop...this guy doesn't know what he's talking about.

A good shop can match the paint...

if i hit it big you want catch me driving one of these things!

So unless you are the founder of Wordpress/Facebook

/<your favorite company here> etc. you will be able to afford a Lexus ES 350 around 35 at best.

had a glass on '95 ES replaced for 150$. can't tell the difference from OEM! lol.

did you try adjusting the sensitivity of the rain sensor? its in the manual.

Has anyone ever replaced this before? Mine don't seem to work..

if i could afford to pay $50-70K cash for a car then i would not be worried about saving a few bucks on the oil change... may be its just me.

besides, DIY oil change or at the 3rd party shop will probably void your warranty if something happens with the engine. Lexus will not have documented oil changes in their system and may use it as a reason to not cover certain things..

does the big fan in front in the engine compartment come on when you turn on the a/c?

you can buy A/C refrigerant with dye in it. add it to you system and look for leaks. as to smell - check if your cabin air filter is clogged. also check outside air vents for clogs.

TPMS reset? isn't it supposed to monitor pressure constantly and reset itself after the tires are filled up?

simply MEAN! love that phat a$$

why not? if he can do this himself..

:) Hello All. I have a 1990 ES250 with a blown head gasket @ 340K. I was wondering if it is just easier to take out the engine with the transmission? I'm having a lot of trouble taking off the distributor cap and the exsaust from the rear head (next to firewall). There is not enough place to remove the bolts. I'm going to change the head gaskets, water pump, thermostat, timing belt, spark plugs and also have to repair the rack and pinion because of a leak. I also have a punctured cv boot on the drivers side. Please let me know what you think and if there is a better way to remove the heads. Thanks!!!

Are u sure the car is worth it?

there is a diagram posted here in the forum with all sensor locations. too lazy to search now..

if the car is rust free - then its a piece of cake. if there is rust ..... could take some time.. otherwise its a simple bolt on.

hi guys i have a simple diy question.i need to replace my muffler and probally my resonator pipe.but just to get things started id like to know how hard is it to remove the muffler myself?is it just a bolt up and then take it off the hangers?im curious to see if i can remove one myself from a local salvage yard.save me some money on parts for now.please any and all help is more than appreciated thank you guys.

will toyota cover lexus warranty?

there is a service manual pdf posted here on this forum. its got the diagram for the brakes. the hardest part is removing the rotor as it is most likely rusted and "glued" in place at this point. i used a hummer and a piece of wood (held against rotor) to bang on the rotor from the back. just bang on it and rotate, dont try to go too fast, take your time, there is lots of rust in there. took me about 10-15min to get it off. otherwise this is an easy job. btw, check out local library. my local public library has haynes manuals for a lot of cars!!!

haha, relax. i never blame other people when smth happens to me.

im past 150kmiles, t-belt/pump was serviced at 100k and i figured it wouldnt be a bad idea to refresh the fluid again. i'll see if i can buy that test first.

regarding fluid disposal: do autozone / advanced auto parts take it? they accept engine oil here, no clue about other fluids though.

yes, just open the drain with the radiator cap off, engine cold and not running. you will never be able to get all of the old coolant out, unless you completely disassemble everything(engine included). close the drain and fill with a 50%50% mixture of antifreeze and water. but again i would reccomend you check the quality of the antifreeze you currently have in there, it is very likley that it is just fine..as far as removing the radiator hose to drain the coolant; yes i have done it. it is faster usually a lot messy-er too, most often its because you are replacing the hose or the radiator or even the t-stat.

some of my concerns; how are you going to dispose of the cooland after its removed?it is toxic!

do you have the proper tools and knowledge to perform this task safely?

if you happen to get an air bubble and you over heat your car will you blame me?

should you just take it to a shop that will do it for about 50 bucks and not have to worry about !Removed! up your nice car?

i don't want to come off as being an a$$- hole but you should consider the options...

so i just open the drain plug and radiator cap to drain it? is engine supposed to be on or off while doing this?

i've read some people disconnect the hose from the radiator to drain it.. whats that all about?

I replaced my coolant when I pulled the waterpump off, I used distiled water and toyota coolant. You should not need to change it if you have less than 100,000 miles on your car, it is a long life coolant. I would suggest buying a coolant specific gravity tester (less than 5 bucks) and check your coolant, it's a little eye dropper with colored balls inside of it.

If none of the above applies then remove the plastic under the front of your car and look for a drain plug in the radiator 99% of radiators have one.

i'd like to change the coolant before winter is here. is this an easy DIY? can someone help with basic directions? did quick search and nothing came up for 4th gen.

there are many discussions here on forums on this exact topic. use search button.

i believe you will have to go through the dealer to program your remote, since you dont have a master key with remote anymore. blank keys could be purchased on ebay or other sites.

beep when you lock the doors, wether or not emergency lights flash when you lock; annoying beeping sound when the seat belt is not on; doors lock/unlock when put in D/P

my heart goes to the families of those who were affected by this inhumane event :(

.. and in case if you want to educate yourself:

moey as debt

also watch a documentary called "War made easy" here. very informative.

search for "poor idle" on this forum, many threads will come up.

did they clean/replace your PCV valve?

honestly, save your money and go with 3rd party. on saved money buy an ounce of gold!!!

put front of the car on stands take off the wheels and examine suspension visually, see if anything is loose, worn out bushings, leaky shocks etc. could be as simple as worn out sway bar bushing...