IanRShearer

Also, this post has a diagram

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/456163-code-14-a.html

If the code 14 comes up the minute the ignition is turned on, then the IGF1 signal must be missing, thats a positive voltage from the ignition relay, through the low voltage coil on the ignition coil, and through the igniter. Should be checkable with a multimeter, and might just be a bad connector. The difficult bit is identifying the correct wire on the connectors.

I would check for 12v on both sides of the coil first, then compare voltages at the igniters, as your no2 igniter is working ok. You basically have 2 identical systems to compare, swap things with

I had a similar problem, sudden cutout, rough running, almost no power. I found abraded wires rubbed by the timing belt and thought that was going to be the fix, but the problem was still there.

Turned out the left hand/ drivers side HT coil was failing, It was a little out of spec. on the resistance test, but looked fine.I didn't really think that was the problem, but changed it.

The coil lives fairly close to the exhaust, and runs in a hot environment, so tends to fail more than the other coil. I found a replacement right hand coil and changed the mounting brackets over.

My car would start, though, and run rough, so symptoms not quite the same.

Buying a cheap o2 is better than having an old o2.

I hope it was a denso so the values will match the ecu to provide the best readings .

As they all are not created equal.

There a bit anonymous, no markings at all. I will only be keeping the car a year or two, so don't want to make a big investment in it. Working better than the probably 17 year old ones that were in there.

I thought the outputs for differnt makes would all be to one standard- apparently not?

My 93 ls400 started running really bad. Mechanic said that the cats were burned out. I changed them, but it runs the same. It still has no power and smells bad. No one seems to know whats wrong with it. One mechanic thinks that its the ecm, but I changed it several months ago and when it went out the check engine light and the trac light came on. The dang thing shows no codes. Any one have any ideas.

Try thre "incomplete combustion" section

diag.pdf

If anyone is wondering if the £15 o2 sensors on Ebay are any good, I have just fitted 2 today, the car is ticking over slower, 700rpm, and pickup is better

Stopping at the lights is no longer a fight between the engine and the brakes

Well worth the effort to install ! :D

I had error codes 21 and 28

item 250338140783 sensors

The right hand one is very awkward, it is not as per the photos at http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/mainoxygensensor.html

as that's a L/H drive

this spanner helps:-

item 260413467112 socket /spanner

The wire colours are different,

white/ black

white / black

black / blue

grey / white

Uh, sorry guys, I meant to post this on the UK site, but maybe you can get them on Ebay in the US too...

If anyone is wondering if the £15 o2 sensors on Ebay are any good, I have just fitted 2 today, the car is ticking over slower, 700rpm, and pickup is better

Stopping at the lights is no longer a fight between the engine and the brakes

Well worth the effort to install ! :D

I had error codes 21 and 28

item 250338140783 sensors

The right hand one is very awkward, it is not as per the photos at http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/mainoxygensensor.html

as that's a L/H drive

this spanner helps:-

item 260413467112 socket /spanner

The wire colours are different,

white/ black

white / black

black / blue

grey / white

Just wanted to say how much this forum helped me when my 92 LS400 developed the red hot cats and no power problem.

I have only had the car for a few weeks and absolutely love the way it drives ( never had a V8 before) and I was pretty stressed when it died on me.

Searching through the forum I found the cause is often the left hand coil pack, and sure enough it was out of spec (6K resistance) I ordered up a second hand replacement and fitted it tonight, and all is well, and I know a lot more about my engine, not so concerned now about possible future problems.

Cheers

glad you got it sorted out! love the above shot of the LS, I can tell its a fresh wax job with the reflection of the apt. building across the street. B)

Yeah, not bad for a 17 year old paint job, I looked out the window and the sun was shining on the building across the street, not that commom an event in Scotland after a winter. Toyota really do paint them well

Just wanted to say how much this forum helped me when my 92 LS400 developed the red hot cats and no power problem.

I have only had the car for a few weeks and absolutely love the way it drives ( never had a V8 before) and I was pretty stressed when it died on me.

Searching through the forum I found the cause is often the left hand coil pack, and sure enough it was out of spec (6K resistance) I ordered up a second hand replacement and fitted it tonight, and all is well, and I know a lot more about my engine, not so concerned now about possible future problems.

Cheers

what on earth is an l/h boot lid hinge...no offense but I'm not from scotland & don't quite understand what that means. I even Googled it & still not a clue... Can U help me out here & show me any of the posts on this? Any help would be appreciated....

"Boot" is British for "trunk". A hood is a bonnet. I think fenders are birds.

Clear as mud?

The poster is saying that alot of early LS's have a problem with intermittent or broken trunk lid wiring.

Causes all kinds of weird things to happen. Do a search on trunk lid wiring.

Ah, yes, trunk, thanks- separated by a common language... fenders are bumpers here, or guitars..

I don't mind doing the job over if it fixes the problem but can you explain how and why the knock sensor could be causing a rough idle?

"Knocking" is when the spark is too far advanced and the burning fuel tries to push the piston back the way it came. It produces a knocking noise.

The knock sensors detect this and the car ECU can ammend the spark timing. Presumably your car is having to guess the exact timing for one bank.

To be honest, I wouldn't have expected it to make that big a difference to tickover, but I don't have the experience to know

I'm desperate here with a slight gremlin....

I replaced the atl. back in May of 08 had no probs. til we took a fiels trip from Brattleboro, VT. to Chuckie Cheese's in springfield, MA. roughly a 45 min drive..... car died at the toll booth as the window was coming down to recieve ticket... replaced battery... prob. solved... so I thought... a month later same stuff happened daily for about two or three months every idiot light would light up like an xmas tree just B4 stalling, I'd usually get about 5 to 7 miles ( just enough to make it to work). removed the alt. to get it tested... Perfectly good... re-installed now the prob. goes away for about 500 to 600 miles... I'm going thought the wringer trying to figure this out... I even got a buddy with 25+ yrs experience in Toyota tech including TRD training & even He's scratching his head like a monkey too. :chairshot:

anyone else experience this?

Sounds like the broken and shorting wires at the l/h boot lid hinge? Lots of posts on this

forgive me for not knowing but...What exactly is "the sticky"?

It's the "pinned" items at the top of the forum list

I actually overlooked the pedal freeplay becasue my light was going out when i let up but ill go check that possibility too befoer dumping 150 in the calipers...thanks

you could try opening a bleed nipple, if there is a spurt of fluid and the calipers release, you would know it was a fluid pressure problem.

If the free play wasn't checked when the master cyl was replaced, I say there was a good chance that's what it is.

Hey there

Quick question for all the lucky LS owners. I have a 91 LS that feels like it is braking all the time. I changed the pads and rotors the other day and the master cylinder last year. the front brakes are getting way too hot and are smoking when i stop and get out. When i changed the rotors and pads the individual pistons in each caliper would retract but i couldnt get both to retract at the same time when using a c-clamp on face of the pad. both sides are doing it so I dont suspect a sticking piston esspecially when they individually will retract when pushed back in. the master cyclinder is only a year old and had all new fluid when i replaced it. Anybody have this problem and fix it with maybe a part in the antilock system or proportioning valve or maybe the TRAC system. I have not sprung for the Maint manual for this thing yet and thought maybe somebody would know enough about the brakes to explain how many doo-dads are in between the master cylinder and the calipers on this over-engineered tank. (loving insult) I have half a mind to follow the lines and ditch everything in between just because it is ticking me off that bad.

PS it was doing this with the old pads and rotors so it is not the new parts either.

Thanks in advance

ghetto

Have you got some free play on the brake pedal, it could be the master cylinder piston is not moving back far enough to release the fluid pressure.

That's just a general thing, I don't know what the setting is for the LS

I repaired my starter and after putting the car back together it now has a miss at idle and it is showing a constant check engine light. The code scanner at O'Reilly's does not plug into the port under the dash so I do not know how to check the codes on this car. I am sure there is a way to make the car tell you by flashing the check engine light but I cannot find that information. I am hoping you guys can help me out here.

Thanks in advance.

Ron

My (UK) car has a different shaped diagnostic port mounted on the engine, as well as the dash one, maybe the scanner would fit that?

If it is one of the coils it is typically the one down low on the drivers side ( US model )

I haven't had a lot of time to investigate yet, a quick look showed that the "top" coil HT side had 11K resistance to earth, which is OK, but I unpluged the HT cable and the car still started and ran much the same, so that would sugest its not OK

I will have to do some dismantling to get to the driver's side coil (It's not actually my drivers side, but I'm the visitor here)

Cheers

You could also try your O2 sensors, but I think if those were bad they would trip your Chk Light.

The symptoms seem similar to what happens when O2 sensors are bad though.

Hi,

Thanks for responding. I do have codes 21 and 28, for both O2 sensors, but I always have them, I think its down to the LPG conversion, but I need to check this with the converter company.

Anyway, the codes were there before this problem suddenly appeared, I think I probably have no spark from one of the HT coil packs, but I haven't had time to check that yet. I hope that's the problem , comparitively easy to fix

Just wanted to give everyone an update and solution to my problem. It turned out the coil pack on the driver's side went out. I thought they had changed both packs, but it turned out they only replaced the one on top of the engine. Changed pack and again things are back to normal.

Hi there, apologies for re-opening an old thread, but my car, which I have only had for 2 weeks now has exactly the same symptoms, no power, both cats red hot, strong fuel smell. Can I confirm that one faulty coil caused both cats to glow hot?

I'm very relieved to find someone who had the same symtoms, wonderfull forum. I'm gutted my "new" car is off the road!