92LS99

I filled up with this fuel twice now, just because of a route I have been taking to work and I feel no difference. What shell says is nitrogen creates a buffer zone that discourages build up and sticking of deposits on engine parts. The same crap as Techcroline probably. For our cars all that matter is pumping 91 and cleaning the fuel system every so often................

Wasn't considering buyoing them, just throwing the product out there for feeddback. I agree with SK's comments, they are probably a boiler plate spring rate and would not match well with the LS400 OEM ride feel. Thanks.

Anybody ever seen a product like this. At first glance it seems like on of those "made just for ebay gimmick products", but then another glance says that the concept in itself is legit. Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these.

They caught my eye becuase they would be about $600 cheaper than real coilovers.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-94-Lexus...sQ5fAccessories

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wider by two inches because it's a gen II right? SK do you have anymore pics of your ride?

Once thing that might be VERY helpful is to let everyone know what year of LS you have.

as 1st gen and 2nd gen have different fitment requirements.

my bad, i thought I put first gen in there. I have a 92 LS.

Whats the make and model??

I personally would go with a nice luxury wheel. This is not necessarily VIP becuase that style is fatter spokes, and less spokes, but I like the luxury look. Zone Wheels.

is that what you have on your LS in the photo SK?

I have been playing around and searching for rims. I really like the deep dish lip look and once I get some coilovers, (anyone got any for sale) will definitely have a slightly negative camber because I want big wheels 19"-20", and I want them to tuck into the fender wells or at least be flush.

What is the widest rim and tire combo for the rear that anyone on the forum has ran or knows of that will work with either coilovers or tanabes? Please reply with wheel size, offset if known and tire size. Photos would be nice too. Thanks. :D

FYI I currently have 255 50 17's in the rear with no rubbing at all (stock slightly worn suspension, no air). Thanks.

im down to the last bolt...the last !@#$%^& bolt. Does anyone have any tips to get that !Removed! of a bolt that is underneath the power steering pump off? I honeslty cannot get it and now the threads are rounding off.

Why is it right there???

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steering/pspumpremoval.html

paste this link into your browser, everything is right there. A goog way to tell if the pump is bad is if your car makes the high pitch whine when it's running and there is still fluid in the reservoir.

In regards to the bolt like other have said, you must have the pulley off, this is usually the last bolt I take off.

If you have bad lines then you are probably loosing fluid, what happens when you checked your fluid levels, were you loosing fluid before this all started?? Or was the steering just difficult.

Look for a very shiny, glossy alternator just below the ps pump. This is tell tale sign of a leaking pump, banjo fitting at the pressure line or reservoir bushing...

Thanks for the links. I finally changed the pump, had some issue with leaks and crush washers, bad threads, and I blanked off the pressure valve. Hope that wasn't a mistake. I picked up what was mentioned on lexls.com.

Thanks for the help. One thing is that my power steering is ok, but it's a firm wheel. Not super loose and easy to turn is this normal?

I'm not experiencing this. It's a dip and pull. I assume from all the responses that there are no "free" online manuals. I'll break down and buy one. Thanks amc.

Now about strut rods. Are we confusing strut rods with "struts (used to absorb bumps, mounted with three bolts visible from the engine bay)" I know that struts are not my problem. So what exactly is a strut rod?

The car pulls because the left strut rod is dead, very common , change both of them

SK. Front or rear or all four corners?? I need a manual, Im gonna flip out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The cheapest one I found is $$$150, it's factory though..

by using all rubber, the pressure hose will flex as u turn and could cause problems with rubbing as it flexes...

yeah after looking at the lines more in detail, the main pressure being a flexible line could create some issues. I've got a pump on order and I'll let you guys know what happens. On another note...to continue with the rest of my avalance...

Does anyone have a link for a free online repair manual? Thanks.

i went through 3 pumps before i finally got a good one, also u should replace the valve by the pump....also get new hoses and have the rack checked, if u have a leakiy rack and u replace the pump and hoses it could cause contamination to get in the system and shorten the life of ur pump...i replaced all 3: pump,rack and hoses its a little expensive but once its done u r done with it for a long time

Funny you say that Python...I was under the car last night and looking at those hoses and pondering replacement. My question is this, the OEM lines are bent metal tubing and rubber. I was thinking to use banjo fitting adapters and just go all rubber. The OEM hoses, from looking around are just as much as the pump!! You don't find many LS400's in the wrecking yard either. Has anyone converted these lines? Thanks.

thanks guys

Thanks for the response(s) guys. No intention of having bad forum manners, I just have read too many threads that drag out with 100 questions just to get to the bottom of the issues, that's why I was specific in listing the issues.

No offense to PYTHON. I respect you for your mad stats, I am just still looking for more feedback on some of the questions I posted. I ran about 6 searches and they really turned up nothing definitive, that why the post is so deep.

Look forward to more dialogue...I've ordered the ps pump, after learning through other posts that bad ones kill alternators.

92;

It's unfortunate because this should have been a sticky along time ago.........

The root cause of your problem is the filter that is on the Power Steering Rack Solenoid. It is clogged and needs to be cleaned. When it's clogged, it causes the discharge pressure of the power steering pump to increase to the point where the pump leaks fluid onto alternator and kills it. Don't even bother replacing the pump until you clean the filter on the solenoid.

When you replace the P/S pump, hang on to the old one awhile before you return it for the core. Chances are good you will have to scavenge the flow control valve (NOT the Air Control Valve) out of the old pump. When you install the new pump, it could have the wrong valve in it, resulting in stiff steering. Provided you haven't returned the old one for the core, you can take the old FCV out of the old pump and put it into the new pump, which fixes the problem.

Myself and probably 40 other people have written about this. This subject comes up every 2 to 3 weeks..............

Thanks thread. I am assuming that solenoid is the black shock looking part just topside of the rack and pinion assembly??...looks fairly simple to remove it?? based on what you have said, do you think the pump is salvagable once the pressure backs down, or the seals are blown for good??

thanks guys

Thanks for the response(s) guys. No intention of having bad forum manners, I just have read too many threads that drag out with 100 questions just to get to the bottom of the issues, that's why I was specific in listing the issues.

No offense to PYTHON. I respect you for your mad stats, I am just still looking for more feedback on some of the questions I posted. I ran about 6 searches and they really turned up nothing definitive, that why the post is so deep.

Look forward to more dialogue...I've ordered the ps pump, after learning through other posts that bad ones kill alternators.

Hello:

I'm crossing over and heading towards VIP :D , I just sold my 91 Legend w/Type II mods, etc. I just bought a 92 Lexus LS400 with 95,000 miles for $2,950. I feel like I got a decent deal except for the car having no stereo and having a bad PS pump. I have several problems that I want to fix and hope you all can help.

I am going to replace the pump, I checked all the lines and they seem OK. The pump body itself is leaking and when I take the cap off I can't really see it recirculating the fluid. Not to mention I hear a constant power steering whine...

When I brake, I get a clunk and the front of the car pulls HAARRDD to the right and the rear pulls HAARRDD to the left? I feel like I'm ridding on a bowl of jello :( . I read something online about a caster bushing going out but can't find this yet, I am still looking for a repair manual. Any one know a link for a free online one? I eventually want to replace the whole suspension, but I need to pinpoint this problem cuz im on budget

What is the best way to stabilize the LS400 without breaking the bank??

Just had the key fob battery replaced, when I lock the doors they cycle three (3) times but still dont lock? Is this because the driver door does not lock at all when I hit the master lock button? Is this some sort of funky master switch thing??

Acura's take special coolant, PS fluid and trans fluid. Any special fluids for lexus'...in the search i saw a mention to Toyota Red, but don't know what this is.

What year did the LS400 switch over to R134 refrigerant. My AC blows but it's not that cold... Thank for the help....

PS.... Any rubbing concerns with tanabe drop springs and 20x8 and 20x9.5 staggered wheels?? Thanks...