jr1000a

I put the new starter in and would have had it done in one day. Before installing the intake, I reconnected the battery and put the relay back in, starter started cranking again with no key or fuse. I stopped working on it for two weeks just to shake it off. I went ahead and finished putting it back together, and am able to put the relay back in without the starter cranking. At least now, I am back to square one where the engine isn't cranking, but the fuse pops as soon as I turn the key to the start position. I am tracing wires and checking components in the circuit. Also, I love my car, but I think we need to hunt down the engineer that designed the external components of the engine, and have him personally change every starter on every LS400 on the road. If anyone is interested, I will post my experience and some recommendations that might help make the replacement a little less difficult.

well, im getting error 41 and bucking if i push the gas too hard in my 93 ls400. i already replaced the tps with a perfect one, had the ecu rebuilt by ati, and checked continuity of the wires from the tps plug to the ecu, they are all perfect. i had been emailing ati for a few days. last thing he asked me to do was check the voltage at the idl pin of the tps connector with it unplugged.

pin1 vc is 5v

pin2 vta is 1.7v

pin3 idl is 10v

pin 4 gnd is gnd

shouldnt the vta pin be reading 0v when unplugged from the tps since it is the signal from the tps when connected? does anyone know if 1.7v on that pin is normal? i emailed this info to ati and havent heard back from them in 2 days now. any help would be appreciated as this is the only error im getting now and i have tested the tps multiple times and even bought a brand new meter thinking maybe mine was reading wrong as its 10 years old. still checks out perfect according to the repair manual.

Don't know about the voltage readings. But My 93ls had the same problem. Sent my ecm for repair. they sent it back saying it was to far gone to repair. Bought one on e-bay now my ls runs fine.

Solenoid is shorted across the contacts, keeping the gear drive engaged. Mine did that two years ago after a beer festival. You can dissect the battery terminal wiring and take the starter lead off the positive terminal (leave the rest of the wiring), turn the key on, then just tap the starter lead to the terminal enough to get it started, then take it off so it's not still running the solenoid, this is if you need to move/drive it. Otherwise, pull the starter off and have it rebuilt/replaced.

Thanks. Did I read correctly that most of the top part of the engine has to come off to get the starter off? I don't have a problem doing that, I did the timing belt/water pump full tuneup a year ago, I just hope I read wrong, or that there is a shortcut of some sort.

Went to start my 94 LS400 and it wouldn't even click. Battery is fully charged. 7.5 starter fuse was blown. replaced, and blew again. for test purposes, put a wire in it's place. Starter turned over and wouldn't stop. Pulled wire and it kept turning. Pulled starter relay to get it to stop. Contacts are open on relay until I plug it in. Doesn't matter if ignition switch is on, or even has the key in, now. I am thinking ignition switch and hoping it's not starter or solenoid. I can turn ignition switch to on, install relay temporarily and start the car. It runs normally, but all indicator lights stay on and white lights, (speedo, tach, fuel gauge) stay off. Help.

Being from the commercial side of the automotive aftermarket for 30 years, (my god, has it been that long?) I have been told by mechanics I trust, that Syntetics are a worthwhile ugrade. The molecular structure makes for less friction, they don't break down as quickly, and are better for startup. Having said that, you still get the same amount of contaminants no matter what you use. So to get the best of both worlds, use 1 quart of the synethic and regular quality oil for the rest. You get the advantages synthetic has to offer, but since you still need to change your oil every 3-5k miles, you don't pay nearly as much in the long run. Myself, I just by the blended when it's on sale. And I know it's just mental, but the first time I did the semi-synthetic oil change, my 94LS felt like it had some new kick to it.

wouldn't WD-40 or PBlaster be a good way to fix the problem. I know both are able to be used on electrical components so that would not be a issue and it should lube the part enuff to stop the squeek.

I would never use WD40 as a permanent lubricant. If there's a pulley squeaking or stiffening, it needs to be replaced.

My 94 LS400 I bought a month ago, just broke the drive belt. Feeling the pulleys, I found that the fan clutch brackt pulley had froze up solid. Didn't have any warning either. Find out which pulley is squealing before you break down and have to wait for parts. (I am a new member and this is my first reply, hope I didn't pull a fopah of any sort)