sc300ccret
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Posts posted by sc300ccret
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Because its ULTRA Rice. And your Lexus is not a civic. The Sc is a classy coupe, and lambo doors just take it into the realm of hoaky. To each their own, but I just think its super rice.
You say Lambo doors I think this.
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=126299
http://www.autofashion.co.uk/bmw_e362.htm
Barf. The doors open to the side and up, the shape of the opening that is left is just goofy looking.
I'm a fan of the it didn't look like it came from the factory I don't want it club. And the way the kits have to swing the doors out and up so they don't hit the fenders is just cheasy.
/rant off
Mike
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where can i get the kit to put the lambo doors on my SC400? thanks guys
PLEASE DON"T do this. Pretty Please? :chairshot:
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Hi.
which do you believe is nicer/better/faster? The Volvo S60 or The Lexus SC400?
In this scenario, the SC400. If you said the S60R, I'd nod for the Volvo. The 60R is a SICK car...
Mike
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the displacement is the same when you convert the 1jz to the 1.5 jz, thats when it becomes 3.0, and then i think i heard that the 1jz head on the 2jz bottom end revs higher than with the 2jz head because the cams. And i was told i have to buy a 1jz turbo manifold and cant use a 2jz turbo manifold, because the exhaust manifold ports for the 1jzgte is different than the 2jzgte, and that only the 1jzfe has different valve sizes.
p.s. is that true that to upgrade the 1jz to a single turbo you cant use a 2jzgte turbo manifold?
I could be wrong but, I'm working under the thought that a 1.5JZ is a 1JZ head on a 2JZ block. The displacement doesn't change beccause of the head. Its "change" because your 2.5L head is now on a 3.0L block.
As for the second part of your question, the 1JZ head stuff(Manifold's) are different than the 2Jz ones.
You should cruise over to www.supraforums.com, register there and poke around in the 1JZ/2JZ swap section. There is more infor there than you'll ever need.
Mike
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Simple honest answer. No. It won't work. I define work as being properly sized for the motor and providing the proper flow.
Its simply too small.
Two things to consider here:
If you can't afford to do it right, don't do it.
Cheap and turbo lexus do not go in the same sentence.
Mike
like the titles say would it work? wat kind of modifcation will it need? i found a guy with a wrx stock turbo for really cheap just wondering if it would work? hes selling it for 300 buckshurs some spec
ihi vf-22
#RHB5
Boost is available at 3300rpms.
capable of producing upwards of 320 whp
info on the turbo and pics
i got this info from the seller tell me if he is not bs, i wanna know if this right info
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I know that this thread has been beaten to death but I am looking for one small piece of information. When I install the supra struts on my 95 lexus SC400, is it an exact fit or do I have to do any special retro fitting type work. The mechanics in my area are acting a bit leary. I am going to have to order the part and the mechanics don't sound capable of doing anything out of the ordinary.
CAN ANYBODY HELP ME OUT?
Bolts right in. I did a how to with pics on here.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126977
Mike
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Everyone is wrong.....THe 1jz motor revs faster than the 2j because of the head design.
THe cubic inches stays the same. In Japan all the "big dawgs" are running this 1.5jz setup so they can have the torque of the 2j but the faster revving of the 1j, THe compression again stays the same. You gotta remember in Japan they have a horsepower regulation...that is why the skyline, and the 1j & 2j (mk3 &mk4) all have the same factory horsepower ratings of 280ps. THat is why Toyota did not put the 1jz head on the 2j. Also They did this in order to make more torque down low.
Since everyone is wrong, Apparently I missed something. The 1JZ is a 2.5L motor and the 2JZ is a 3.0L. How do the "cubic inches stay the same" yet have different displacements? Head design has nothing to do with the ability to rev. Reciprocating mass and the bore/stoke ratio has to do with the ability to rev, not head design.
Your last statement also doesn't make sense. Torque is primarily a function of the bore/stroke ratio not head design, even though on an N/A car the intake design does matter to a certain degree.
Here are some facts.
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Displacement, cc 2491
Engine model 1JZ-GTE
Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 280 ps (205.94 kw) / 6200 rpm
Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 37.0 kg*m (362.85 N*m) / 4800 rpm
Power density 5.43
Engine type Serial 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve IC twin turbo
Engine information
Fuel system EFI (electronic fuel injection)
Turbocharger Twin Turbo with intercooler
Fuel type Unleaded premium gasoline
LEV system (Low emission vehicle) No
Compression ratio 8.5
Bore, mm 86
Stroke, mm 71.5
Final gear ratio
Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km 12
Fuel consumption at 60 km/h, l/100km 5.9
_____________________________________________________
Displacement, cc 2997
Engine model 2JZ-GTE
Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 280 ps (205.94 kw) / 5600 rpm
Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 46.0 kg*m (451.11 N*m) / 3600 rpm
Power density 5.32
Engine type Serial 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve IC twin turbo
Engine information VVT-i two-way twin turbo
Fuel system EFI (electronic fuel injection)
Turbocharger Twin Turbo with intercooler
Fuel type Unleaded premium gasoline
LEV system (Low emission vehicle) No
Compression ratio 8.5
Bore, mm 86
Stroke, mm 86
Final gear ratio
Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km 11.1
Fuel consumption at 60 km/h, l/100km
Please help me understand your statements because on the surface they make no sense what so ever.
Mike
P.S. The I have one so I know arguement won't fly.
P.P.S. Here is a good article on bore/stroke affects the character of the motor.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/09...ker/index.shtml
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There's a member on clublexus, but the name Phil who wrote a how to on converting over to a TT,
the manin thing he has is the wiring diagram, that's pretty helpful for witing up the 2jzgte to the sc300
2.2crx:
you best bet is to had a NA-T kit
the NA-T supra's run pretty well some up to 600hp
so there's really no need to swap out the entire motor.
the 2JZ-GE is a pretty solid motor itself, only thing missing is the oil squiters used to cool the cylinders (but thats over kill in the GTE motor)
The guide won't work on a 97up. But you should be fine on other years. The GTE swap is spendy but I think its the right way to go. If your looking to make 450 to 500hp the NA-T right is a cheaper and easier alternative.
Mike
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so what about on my 96 sc300 will the fronts just bolt right on and i will only need the caliper rotor and pad or do i also need the bracket from the supra too
Your Supra TT calipers will bolt right on.
Mike
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this is a double post...i posted in the GS forum..but no replies, so asking here now..
here's my dilemma.
my brother is planning to turbocharge his GS430 thru the means of custom fabrication.
i was wondering if anyone knew the Volumetric Efficiency (in a percentage) of the engine used in the 2001 GS430.
i just wanted to know because i'm going to check out some compressor maps soon.
any help would be appreciated.
thanks.
Good luck. That info isn't really posted anywhere. You'll have to just wing it. Based on a 4.3, either twin 57's or a single GT47-76 or 80 would be fine.
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well, here's what i think, if u got the money, twin turbo that SC300, if not, get a big !Removed! single turbo in there, it would be faster then the TT Supra. good luck.
Ummm... :chairshot: Whatever...
As with everything there are a few ways to do things.
I personally think that anything less than a full 2JZ-GTE swap is a compromise.
The Na-T's can make sick power. Dave H is the testament to that. But for all the one off parts he had to make, he could have gone with the well established and easily supported GTE platform. This is not a knock against Dave, rather just pointing out that *I* think the right way/easier way to make the sick kinds of power is to do the Full GTE swap.
You can do the 1Jz swap but is a pain to get parts in the states.
You can do a 1.5 Swap, but then your limited to certain manifolds for the GE head. Once again, I think its a compromise.
You can do a JDM GTE swap, but there are certain issues with that as well.
I got lucky when I did my car, and I found a USDM GTE motor at a decent price.
Since I did all of the wiring myself, and I helped with most of everything else, I honestly feel I can say that the GTE swap is fairly easy and considering the benefit I highly recommend it.
The twin turbo route is really just for bling bling. There was a huge arguement on the MKIV list just last week about this. 95% of the people agreed that a single conversion is the way to go. Big single or small single is your call, all depending on all your goals.
TT's makes sense for a V or flat motor, but an inline it just doesn't make sense.
Mike
97 Sc300 GTE'd
867RWHP on its first dyno pass.
More to come.
P.S. Typos are all over my post. Deal with it. :)
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Yeah, I have the w154 tranny, looks like I'm gonna have to save up a little. Any recommendations on flywheel?
Depends on the material. The feramic tends to weld itself to an aluminum flywheel(AKA Fidanza). I kept mine stock as to a lot of other big power guys.
Mike
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Sounds like you want a more aggressive clutch which is not really what I want. I did a little more research on that feramic and heres what I found:
"This is a brand new clutch compound that is capable of withstanding very high pressures with no chatter. It is incredibly slippable, and engages very close to stock. Shifting gears is like cutting melted butter. This identical clutch with 6-speed splines is on the HPF supra, and easily handles 800rwhp."
Sounds interesting, I'd like to hear from someone who has one.
I have the feramic with an ACT pressure plate. The fermaic clutch is nearly unbearable for the first 500 miles. After that is is SWEEEEEEEEETTTTT. The first 500 is super grabby, chattery and so on. a bit off that it rocks.
My suggestion is to either call Ryan Woon at WOTM.com or call horsepowerfreaks.com.
They are the clutch guru's. But your on a w154 tranny right?
Mike
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I dunno. Put a huge 101mm turbo on it and run a 4 inch exhaust like I did. If you bought the mufflers and your now trying to design the exhaust, I think your rearranging furniture on the Titanic at this point. You design the mufflers around the exhaust not the exhaust around the mufflers.
Mike.
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My clutch recently started slipping so I guess its time for a new one. I want one with a little extra grip then stock without being to stiff; Any suggestions?
Dunno. i'm a huge fan of the horsepowerfreaks.com feramic disc with ACT pressure plate but its prolly way over kill for you. Any good reason you have not to use the stock clutch?
Mike
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how built up is your motor?
sorry to jack the thread and all....
Since the thread is about the strengths of the 1/2jz I think its not even close to jacking:)
I have Arias Pistons, Crower Rods, Imm over Ferrea valves with Crower springs. A Virtual works racing stage two race port head, HKS 272's, Virtual works intake mainfold.
Incase you don't know who VWR is they have the worlds fastest non nitrous supra at 8.89@156. They also built Garth Weavers car which is now on t04r.com and he made 1035 RWHP. They also have a customers stock block Supra with a 74mm Strim and it just made a 9.96 seond pass.
Anything else just PM me so we don't thread jack.
Mike
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i just like the 1j more because of that higher revving hollow sound that it has... but yea the torque and power of the 2j is killer
mike:
867whp on c16? how much boost are you runnin?
great to hear! thats enough power to smash your face in to that initial smile when you first feel boost along with temporary blindness^^
C16 is my heroin:) Its a great time. That was the first pass on the dyno, then the AEM CDI decided to let me know that it hated non resistor plugs, so that sacked the rest of the pulls. We are hoping for 920RWHP. I should make it back next week. That pull was at 39psi with like 13 degrees of timing. so there is tons of room for improvement.
Mike
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Are you keeping the same rear end? If your keeping your NA rear end, then keep the tranny. If your going witha supra lsd rearend then swap the tranny to your v160.
Mike
97 SC300
867RWHP
V160-:)
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Nope. Just replace the pads like any other car. Nothing special required at all.
Mike
97' SC300
867 RWHP
Hey everyone,I'd like to do a complete pad and rotor replacement on my '93 SC4. I've done this several times on my Integra, but it didn't have ABS, so there was nothing special to look out for besides making sure to bleed the brakes when done.
Is there anything (like sensors, pnuematic gizmos or anything else) that I may need to have recallibrated, reset, re-adjusted or otherwise tampered with to make sure the ABS still behaves properly when i'm done? Or does this job have about the same degree of dificulty as pad+rotor replacement on a non-ABS vehicle? Will I need any special callibration tools?
I'd much rather pay $325 for all four rotors + high-grade(front) & ceramic pads(rear) at the import parts place and do this myself than get raped by the dealer at a ludicrous $1,410 - which they just quoted me.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
btw: I don't have access to this forum website during the day at work, so it will a at least a day before i can check back on replies.
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Personally, I am biased, but I'd go 2JZ.
1. MUCH Easier to get parts.
2. Swap is easier espec if your getting an AEM.
3. Potenetial is far greater.
4. Its not much more than a 1jz swap.
FWIW my 2jzSC300 laid down 867 RWHP last week.
Mike
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Yup plops right into our motor mounts...
When I get ready to do my car I'm not gonna be concerned with the motor though... I've just got a lot of soldering to do lol.
Heres a site from a guy thats done it before.. you can purchase his manual, but hey.. a step by guide for wiring harness......sweet, you really can't beat that.
http://www.fly-hawaii.com/lexustt/
good luck with it... and happy boosting :D
As far as the GE vs. GTE debate. The motors are a bit different in that the GTE has oil squirters under the pistons and the GE block doesn't. Most applications don't matter,but if your going to get silly then GTE is the way to go. Also the head is different.
Now I did the harness in my car myself. Phils guide is good up until a '95. After that some of the stuff is different enough not to work.
Mike
97SC300TT
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not much else is different. placement of some of the things under the hood are a bit different. and wiring in the gte is probably different compared with the ge and 1uz meaning chassis wiring is different. but maybe its not becasue the last time i looked at the manual the body connectors were all written the same. and i just helped my friend put in a black interior in his 300 and all of the electrical things from the 400 connected up and worked fine. so it might not be that different.
The harness is indeed different. The easiest way to do this is to get a Sc300 harness and run an AEM instead of the factory ECU. Factory ECU will work fine as well, but I just love my AEM and couldn't see going turbo and keeping the factory box.
Mike
'97 SC300TT
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ok, I have a 1992 sc 300 and i want to take a 1995 sc 400's needles and put them in mine since they are not burnt out... figured they would work so I change them out... no luck
so i try to change the guts out... still dont work... basicaly i want to have the needles from the 1995 sc 400 in my sc 300, but i dont want the miles from the sc 400 (300,000!!) neways if anybody knows nething i shud do ?? its sucha time consuming process... 6 hrs... nothing
Ohh... the expert in this area is lextech.org. Might wanna ask him.
Mike
so i try to change the guts out... still dont work... basicaly i want to have the needles from the 1995 sc 400 in my sc 300, but i dont want the miles from the sc 400 (300,000!!) neways if anybody knows nething i shud do ?? its sucha time consuming process... 6 hrs... nothing
2jzgtte In Sc300
in Lexus Modifications Forums
Posted
You can make a NA-t run up to 900hp if you want. :) But I personally think that 500hp is the limit for a reliable daily driven NA-T. Anything after that, it makes sense to do the swap.
Mike