sc300ccret

The guide won't work on a 97up. But you should be fine on other years. The GTE swap is spendy but I think its the right way to go. If your looking to make 450 to 500hp the NA-T right is a cheaper and easier alternative. Mike ← it sounds like it makes sense... but is there a reason why? why would the na-t only be good for 400-500hp? ← You can make a NA-t run up to 900hp if you want. :) But I personally think that 500hp is the limit for a reliable daily driven NA-T. Anything after that, it makes sense to do the swap. Mike

PLEASE DON"T do this. Pretty Please?:chairshot: ← Why not? Looks cool to me. Why the plea not too? ← Because its ULTRA Rice. And your Lexus is not a civic. The Sc is a classy coupe, and lambo doors just take it into the realm of hoaky. To each their own, but I just think its super rice. You say Lambo doors I think this. http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=126299 http://www.autofashion.co.uk/bmw_e362.htm Barf. The doors open to the side and up, the shape of the opening that is left is just goofy looking. I'm a fan of the it didn't look like it came from the factory I don't want it club. And the way the kits have to swing the doors out and up so they don't hit the fenders is just cheasy. /rant off Mike

PLEASE DON"T do this. Pretty Please? :chairshot:

In this scenario, the SC400. If you said the S60R, I'd nod for the Volvo. The 60R is a SICK car... Mike

I could be wrong but, I'm working under the thought that a 1.5JZ is a 1JZ head on a 2JZ block. The displacement doesn't change beccause of the head. Its "change" because your 2.5L head is now on a 3.0L block. As for the second part of your question, the 1JZ head stuff(Manifold's) are different than the 2Jz ones. You should cruise over to www.supraforums.com, register there and poke around in the 1JZ/2JZ swap section. There is more infor there than you'll ever need. Mike

Simple honest answer. No. It won't work. I define work as being properly sized for the motor and providing the proper flow. Its simply too small. Two things to consider here: If you can't afford to do it right, don't do it. Cheap and turbo lexus do not go in the same sentence. Mike

Bolts right in. I did a how to with pics on here. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126977 Mike

Since everyone is wrong, Apparently I missed something. The 1JZ is a 2.5L motor and the 2JZ is a 3.0L. How do the "cubic inches stay the same" yet have different displacements? Head design has nothing to do with the ability to rev. Reciprocating mass and the bore/stoke ratio has to do with the ability to rev, not head design. Your last statement also doesn't make sense. Torque is primarily a function of the bore/stroke ratio not head design, even though on an N/A car the intake design does matter to a certain degree. Here are some facts. ______________________________________________________- Displacement, cc 2491 Engine model 1JZ-GTE Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 280 ps (205.94 kw) / 6200 rpm Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 37.0 kg*m (362.85 N*m) / 4800 rpm Power density 5.43 Engine type Serial 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve IC twin turbo Engine information Fuel system EFI (electronic fuel injection) Turbocharger Twin Turbo with intercooler Fuel type Unleaded premium gasoline LEV system (Low emission vehicle) No Compression ratio 8.5 Bore, mm 86 Stroke, mm 71.5 Final gear ratio Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km 12 Fuel consumption at 60 km/h, l/100km 5.9 _____________________________________________________ Displacement, cc 2997 Engine model 2JZ-GTE Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 280 ps (205.94 kw) / 5600 rpm Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 46.0 kg*m (451.11 N*m) / 3600 rpm Power density 5.32 Engine type Serial 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve IC twin turbo Engine information VVT-i two-way twin turbo Fuel system EFI (electronic fuel injection) Turbocharger Twin Turbo with intercooler Fuel type Unleaded premium gasoline LEV system (Low emission vehicle) No Compression ratio 8.5 Bore, mm 86 Stroke, mm 86 Final gear ratio Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km 11.1 Fuel consumption at 60 km/h, l/100km Please help me understand your statements because on the surface they make no sense what so ever. Mike P.S. The I have one so I know arguement won't fly. P.P.S. Here is a good article on bore/stroke affects the character of the motor. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/09...ker/index.shtml

The guide won't work on a 97up. But you should be fine on other years. The GTE swap is spendy but I think its the right way to go. If your looking to make 450 to 500hp the NA-T right is a cheaper and easier alternative. Mike

Your Supra TT calipers will bolt right on. Mike

Good luck. That info isn't really posted anywhere. You'll have to just wing it. Based on a 4.3, either twin 57's or a single GT47-76 or 80 would be fine.

Ummm... :chairshot: Whatever... As with everything there are a few ways to do things. I personally think that anything less than a full 2JZ-GTE swap is a compromise. The Na-T's can make sick power. Dave H is the testament to that. But for all the one off parts he had to make, he could have gone with the well established and easily supported GTE platform. This is not a knock against Dave, rather just pointing out that *I* think the right way/easier way to make the sick kinds of power is to do the Full GTE swap. You can do the 1Jz swap but is a pain to get parts in the states. You can do a 1.5 Swap, but then your limited to certain manifolds for the GE head. Once again, I think its a compromise. You can do a JDM GTE swap, but there are certain issues with that as well. I got lucky when I did my car, and I found a USDM GTE motor at a decent price. Since I did all of the wiring myself, and I helped with most of everything else, I honestly feel I can say that the GTE swap is fairly easy and considering the benefit I highly recommend it. The twin turbo route is really just for bling bling. There was a huge arguement on the MKIV list just last week about this. 95% of the people agreed that a single conversion is the way to go. Big single or small single is your call, all depending on all your goals. TT's makes sense for a V or flat motor, but an inline it just doesn't make sense. Mike 97 Sc300 GTE'd 867RWHP on its first dyno pass. More to come. P.S. Typos are all over my post. Deal with it. :)

Depends on the material. The feramic tends to weld itself to an aluminum flywheel(AKA Fidanza). I kept mine stock as to a lot of other big power guys. Mike

I have the feramic with an ACT pressure plate. The fermaic clutch is nearly unbearable for the first 500 miles. After that is is SWEEEEEEEEETTTTT. The first 500 is super grabby, chattery and so on. a bit off that it rocks. My suggestion is to either call Ryan Woon at WOTM.com or call horsepowerfreaks.com. They are the clutch guru's. But your on a w154 tranny right? Mike

I dunno. Put a huge 101mm turbo on it and run a 4 inch exhaust like I did. If you bought the mufflers and your now trying to design the exhaust, I think your rearranging furniture on the Titanic at this point. You design the mufflers around the exhaust not the exhaust around the mufflers. Mike.

Dunno. i'm a huge fan of the horsepowerfreaks.com feramic disc with ACT pressure plate but its prolly way over kill for you. Any good reason you have not to use the stock clutch? Mike

Since the thread is about the strengths of the 1/2jz I think its not even close to jacking:) I have Arias Pistons, Crower Rods, Imm over Ferrea valves with Crower springs. A Virtual works racing stage two race port head, HKS 272's, Virtual works intake mainfold. Incase you don't know who VWR is they have the worlds fastest non nitrous supra at 8.89@156. They also built Garth Weavers car which is now on t04r.com and he made 1035 RWHP. They also have a customers stock block Supra with a 74mm Strim and it just made a 9.96 seond pass. Anything else just PM me so we don't thread jack. Mike

C16 is my heroin:) Its a great time. That was the first pass on the dyno, then the AEM CDI decided to let me know that it hated non resistor plugs, so that sacked the rest of the pulls. We are hoping for 920RWHP. I should make it back next week. That pull was at 39psi with like 13 degrees of timing. so there is tons of room for improvement. Mike

Are you keeping the same rear end? If your keeping your NA rear end, then keep the tranny. If your going witha supra lsd rearend then swap the tranny to your v160. Mike 97 SC300 867RWHP V160-:)

Nope. Just replace the pads like any other car. Nothing special required at all. Mike 97' SC300 867 RWHP

Personally, I am biased, but I'd go 2JZ. 1. MUCH Easier to get parts. 2. Swap is easier espec if your getting an AEM. 3. Potenetial is far greater. 4. Its not much more than a 1jz swap. FWIW my 2jzSC300 laid down 867 RWHP last week. Mike

Thank you.. Mike

As far as the GE vs. GTE debate. The motors are a bit different in that the GTE has oil squirters under the pistons and the GE block doesn't. Most applications don't matter,but if your going to get silly then GTE is the way to go. Also the head is different. Now I did the harness in my car myself. Phils guide is good up until a '95. After that some of the stuff is different enough not to work. Mike 97SC300TT

The harness is indeed different. The easiest way to do this is to get a Sc300 harness and run an AEM instead of the factory ECU. Factory ECU will work fine as well, but I just love my AEM and couldn't see going turbo and keeping the factory box. Mike '97 SC300TT

Ohh... the expert in this area is lextech.org. Might wanna ask him. Mike