jiggapoo

Yep, I did it. You can simply tie the input and output together and it turns the light off.

Er... I mean, down low? :) Thanks!

I wish I had a choice! We have one dealer. But I see your point; I wish there was some competition so I could raise the bar of expectations of my dealer.

But what if, instead of a filter, there was a solid piece of metal? At that point I wouldn't get ANY air!

Okay, that makes sense. Thanks for the clarification.

You must own stock in the company that makes the cabin filter! I don't see how that'll solve the problem. Can you explain?

I used the good bulbs for testing and, yep, it's the bulbs. I switched the good and bad bulbs and then good bulbs lit up where the bad bulbs where, and vice versa. Go ahead and post your capacitor write-up to the board. I'm interested.

Yep, that sounds about right. It's louder a) when cold and B) under moderate to hard acceleration. However, it doesn't go away totally when warmed up. Perhaps because your pipe was totally busted the hole was big enough to keep the sound to a minimum. When cruising with the radio on I can't hear it so it sounds like the problem is diagnosed. Again, thanks for the help.

1996, 200k miles. This is not a climate control LCD problem, this is a backlighting problem. Two or three of the bulbs out of the back of the unit are out, leaving my fingers wondering which button to push next in the morning when it's dark. I called the dealer to get some replacement bulbs but there are two types which allegedly look the same. This somewhat makes sense in that there are bulbs which light up the LCD and then bulbs which light up behind the buttons. Can anyone help with bulb part #'s and which is which? I don't see any markings on the bulbs and they all look the same. I'll also put some pictures up and a DIY when I discover the solution.

That's the one that's up high, right? Has the two posts at the end of it?

I modified the broken EGR pipe that came out of my car. I bent it, and then crushed it the rest of the way in a vice. Did you not *hear* your EGR pipe broken all the two years you were driving it? That's what's driving me a little bit up the wall. It almost sounds like a crack in an exhaust mainfold but I've been feeling/listening up close for leaks in the obvious places with no findings, hence my trip to the shop and their diagnosis which I had not thought of. Thanks for your help!

1996, a little over 200k miles. It's about 33 degrees outside. I get heat when moving (but not much) and cold air when stopped--even when engine is warmed up. In addition, the fan sounds like it's blowing hard when I have it on full blast but I don't get much from the vents. Note that I have this same weak flow problem with the A/C on (the air is cold but just doesn't flow hard even though the blower sounds like it's working hard). To me it feels like there is a mix vent that is not keeping the outside air out and/or not letting the interior blower do its job. Is this a common problem, is there a common fix? I tried a search in the forums but "mix vent" is not allowed so I'm stumped.

Just over 200k miles, unknown suspension maintenance on my 1996. I get a clunk from what feels like the left (driver's) side under the following circumstances: 1. At speeds less than 10 mph: hitting the brakes hard 2. A sharp dip/drop-off at low speeds (e.g., coming out of a driveway) It feels like the car is bottoming out and makes a sound to match. It seems to make a worse sound/feeling when I'm turning to the right and going through a sharp dip. As for checking the usual culprits: no visually broken bushings or busted boots on lower control arm, balljoints, upper strut arm, sway bar, or tie rod ends. Tires are not wearing funny / strange and have about 20k miles on them There is a very slight jiggle at highway speeds but no pulling (may or may not be related) Tires are balanced and alignment was done in about 5k miles ago (Feb/08) Do these cars have a subframe bushing I'm missing?

You can reach the point where the EGR pipe attaches to the exhaust manifold from underneath the car. Put your car up on ramps and slide under the car just behind the front passenger's side tire (I don't know what side the steering wheel is on in Russia, so if you are standing at the front bumper, it's the left side.). After the car has cooled off, reach up towards the manifold and you can feel the EGR pipe. I was able to remove mine with a combination wrench. I believe you have to remove the heater control valve (and maybe some other parts) to unbolt the other end of the EGR pipe. We don't do emission testing here, so I just capped mine off at the exhaust manifold to make the exhaust noise stop, and it worked beautifully (which is also posted on youtube). Very nice! I'm having this problem on my '96. At a trusted mechanic (non-dealer) I had the fix quoted at $800 total, of which $110 is the part. What did you use to cap it? I haven't even looked at the connection... we do have emissions but I just passed so I'm good for a year. An interesting comment was made by the mechanic who gave me the quote. He said that cold air in the upcoming season could be sucked back into the engine and bend the valves. I'm not sure how that would happen... can someone confirm that theory and/or explain it? One other tidbit: no codes, no CEL, no tough starting, no bad acceleration, no rough idle. However, my gas mileage is horrendous. I get 15mpg around town and only about 21 mpg expressway. I've attributed it to this cracked EGR pipe so when I get it fixed / capped I'll report back.

Followup: anybody have the wiring diagram to disable? E.g., does tying the input and output of the wire (near the wheel) make the light go off? I've checked my pads, they still have life left (both front and rear) and would like to continue driving without having to stare at Mr. Red-Dotted-Circle.