Matej

Many thanks for the replies. The engine heat an flow of oil into the differential must be the reason I thought I had it all full, but two days later I was showing low fluid even though there were no leaks. I filled it again when hot, thought I had it full again, but the level would drop again. Finally got a stable reading.

Thanks again.

Bill Harrison

Same car here, 1995 ES300

This post is 6 years old.

Still, how did you filled the differential oil? From under the car or from the top? Does this require to jack the car?

It's good to hear that you have it fixed. I think auto manufactures really should re-design the idle stop screw. Many people do not realize that on a fuel injected car, it should not be touched, period. It will always be something else that is causing the problem (except when it has already been messed with, and you are just trying to return it to the original position).

Even in the days of carb engines, the throttle screw has limited adj range. If you adj it too far you will mess up the idle transition circuit of the carb, and it would stumble off idle.

Still somehow it was sticking, well I sprayed carbon cleaner on the throttle valve during movement, until sticking's gone. Yes, George, you were right, now it's not sticking. But as you can see on the photos, it was just a superficial cleaning. The whole intake should be dismounted and cleaned, not just sprayed.

I love this forum but it does get confusing. This is what "I" am going to do with my 96 es300 w/125k mi.

1. The manual says to "inspect" at 125k but says nothing else about oil transfusion or what to use.

2. The dip stick says to use Dex II and to check the rear end oil at the filler hole. However my understanding is that Dex III can be used in place of all before it. I am not sure when Dex II was superseded/discontinued but I thought it was before 96 as stated below. I am sure the stick is OEM and has all the jap lingo on it. I concluded that maybe the stick is older than 96 but then what did the factory really use? I assume it had to be Dex III. (Democratic disclaimer: No disrespect meant on the Jap statement.)

3. The forum seems avid against using Dexron. So I called the Dealer...Bell Road Lexus in Phoenix @ (602) 866-1474 and they told me...:

"Pre 1999- Dexron III ATF. 1999 to 2004- Toyota ATF. 2004+ World Standard ATF what ever that is...you new guys can fight it out. I asked about the synthetic and he said with older cars it would not really matter but suggested "no". I asked about using the Valvoline vv337 Dex/Merc Extended Life and he said it was a good product and a good replacement for the Dexron".

4. So...I want all the oil changed out... so I am doing the flush method irregardless of the damage threat (I'm such a rebel) and pulling/cleaning the pan/changing the internal screen filter. And I am using the Extended Life Valvoline. Because the Valvoline can be used and will mix with everything I feel safer useing it. It takes 9 qts plus one or 2 for the flush. If interested in the Valvoline I have posted more info on it...read on:

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer...ission-fluid/37

Overview from the site above:

MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF contains a blend of superior base oils and a unique additive package to help extend the life of transmissions with over 75,000 miles. It is formulated to maximize transmission performance, reduce transmission wear, and improve and maintain smooth shifting longer than conventional fluids. MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF is compatible with new and rebuilt transmissions and will not void new car warranties.

Recommended for use where DEXRON, DEXRON II, III and VI, Toyota T-IV and WS, MERCON®, MERCON® SP and LV, Allison TES 295 and 389, Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J and Matic-K, Honda Z-1 (except CVT), Mercedes NAG-1, Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II and SP-III and many others are required.

WIKIPEDIA:

All previous DEXRON specifications were replaced once DEXRON-VI was introduced. There are no valid approved products that carry the DEXRON approval unless they have a DEXRON-VI approval and associated license.

DEXRON-IIE has been surpassed by DEXRON-III as of January 1, 1994. It is no longer available and its use is no longer recommended. DEXRON-IIE is not compatible in systems requiring DEXRON-III or DEXRON-VI.

DEXRON-III is not compatible with the most recently designed transmissions, and the use of these earlier type fluids could result in transmission damage. All DEXRON-III licenses expired at the end of 2006, and will not be renewed. Beyond that date, General Motors will only support the use of DEXRON-VI fluids for use in Hydra-Matic transmissions. Fluids claiming DEXRON-III type performance continue to be sold under abbreviated names such as Dex/Merc, and D/M however since the DEXRON-III licensing system no longer exists, these fluids are not regulated in any way.

DEXRON-VI

DEXRON-VI was introduced in 2005. It was designed to replace all prior specifications, and is therefore backwards-compatible with applications calling for DEXRON of any type. The specification (GMN 10060) defines both a performance level and specific additives that provide improved shift feel, friction durability and oxidative stability compared to earlier specified fluids.

Hope this helps and not hinder...

Here is what I did, lunacy...

ES300 1995, 142 000 miles

Since it was mine,

1st tranny fluid change (drain and refill cca 2.7 litres) was done in March 2009

- tranny filter change included, also with magnetic cleanup

2nd May 2009

3rd December 2009

Changed with Dexron III type - Shell Donax TX (not an advertisment)

At 1st I was affraid, then it was and is much smoother, I felt a quicker response.

Why 3 changes in one year?

I could not figure out last time it was changed.

Automatic transmission is a quantum mechanics for me, very difficult thing.

I am mostly driving in city, rarely on highways, tranny A540E is called heavy duty, but like any auto tranny can be easily blowed up.

Compression check seems easy to do. I'll try to look for the tester, or pay a visit to a dealer. I don't know how much, but I post it here? How much in US?

Us you can pick up a gauge from $45 for a decent unit, professional units are more expensive.

Plugs are dry, a little dark, I should've taken some pics of it.

That's good, is there any signficant difference between the 6 of them? IE is one much lighter, or darker?

I see that you have an experience. Really, would you say that adjusting spark plug gap is OK?

Checking the gap is not optional, you must do it, trust me on this one. Some engines are more sensitive to gap than others.

I have a new NGK BKR6EP-11 here, waiting for replace, bought them sooner - was a good price on them. I measured the gaps with a slide calliper (0,02mm tolerance), they are perfectly OK.

It has 235000km (around 142000miles). Changed oil, oil filter, ATF (filter last year - wasn't required), coolant, brake fluid, maybe soon I'll drain the powersteering/cooling fan fluid (Dexron II). I'll measure the resistance of spark plug wires, do a compression check. I will change the plugs in march.

How to check cap and rotor? Btw, aren't those supposed to be in a carburated engine?

I would suggest buying a replacement cap and rotor. That way you will have something to compare it to. If you do not need it, you can always return it if it has not been installed. The wear will be evident, especially if you have the the new one to look at. And carburated engines have no bearing on if it has a dist or not. Later model lexus (ie 94 up) do not have dist

Tranny was drained and filled twice this year, it was brown, now its more orange (cca 6 litres in tranny + cca 3 litres in reservoir)

Just plz tell me, when adjusting throttle cable (kick-down tranny cable), manual says that there should be a 0-1mm of stopper visible from a rubber boot. But after adjustment, there is still a little slack. And when engine started and fully warmed up, the dashpot moves down resulting in -1mm inside the rubber boot (outside cable) with bigger slack.

What about this?

that I would have to look up, cannot do that at this moment.

Compression check was done today (yes, Sunday), OK.

Spark plugs a little grey, mechanic said they are perfect, don't need replacing.

Cap and rotor perfect OK, mechanic said.

So I took him for a ride. He felt that shaky idle in neutral, same as in drive.

So he measured the resistances of IAC, checked if rotating (plugged 12V on both directions) - OK.

He also measured coolant temp sensor resistance - OK

Then he went for stopper screw, it was high, yes, the throttle was all the time at idle a little opened - IAC is stepping engine, it has more than 100 openning levels, and ECM could not find the right position for IAC, so it sets the nearest lower. Then the mechanic checked and adjusted the TPS with 0.7mm gauge, set it for infinite resistance and fastened the screws.

Problem caused by throttle lever stop screw. Everything smooth now, very good pre-christmas gift :-) (before I did adjustments to screw, it was higher, I just set it a little lower just like the manual stated, I still can't find out who messed with it, there was yellow painted mark which was scrambled before I did adjustment).

George, just like you said, he also recommended throttle intake and IACV to soak it up with cleaner for a few hours. IACV - intake ending with lots of hoses in it included IAC motor. But told that this is not necessary now, cause it runs fine. Suggested, that sometimes in March would be OK.

He asked for 36€ (3 hours of work) for all this, I gave him 50€.

Compression check seems easy to do. I'll try to look for the tester, or pay a visit to a dealer. I don't know how much, but I post it here? How much in US?

Us you can pick up a gauge from $45 for a decent unit, professional units are more expensive.

Plugs are dry, a little dark, I should've taken some pics of it.

That's good, is there any signficant difference between the 6 of them? IE is one much lighter, or darker?

I see that you have an experience. Really, would you say that adjusting spark plug gap is OK?

Checking the gap is not optional, you must do it, trust me on this one. Some engines are more sensitive to gap than others.

I have a new NGK BKR6EP-11 here, waiting for replace, bought them sooner - was a good price on them. I measured the gaps with a slide calliper (0,02mm tolerance), they are perfectly OK.

It has 235000km (around 142000miles). Changed oil, oil filter, ATF (filter last year - wasn't required), coolant, brake fluid, maybe soon I'll drain the powersteering/cooling fan fluid (Dexron II). I'll measure the resistance of spark plug wires, do a compression check. I will change the plugs in march.

How to check cap and rotor? Btw, aren't those supposed to be in a carburated engine?

I would suggest buying a replacement cap and rotor. That way you will have something to compare it to. If you do not need it, you can always return it if it has not been installed. The wear will be evident, especially if you have the the new one to look at. And carburated engines have no bearing on if it has a dist or not. Later model lexus (ie 94 up) do not have dist

Tranny was drained and filled twice this year, it was brown, now its more orange (cca 6 litres in tranny + cca 3 litres in reservoir)

Just plz tell me, when adjusting throttle cable (kick-down tranny cable), manual says that there should be a 0-1mm of stopper visible from a rubber boot. But after adjustment, there is still a little slack. And when engine started and fully warmed up, the dashpot moves down resulting in -1mm inside the rubber boot (outside cable) with bigger slack.

What about this?

that I would have to look up, cannot do that at this moment.

I see that you have also ES300.

Could you plz take a photo of your throttle cable when engine is cold and not started?

The plugs should be a very light tan and dry. Black is a indication of too rich, wet is even worse. Most auto part stores carry compression testers. It is a simple procedure. I don't know how much dealers charge per hour over there, but in the states you can buy a very good compression checker for less than 1 hours labor. The procedure is simple, first make sure that the battery is full charged and remove the fuel pump relay. Next remove all spark plugs, note the condition of each plug ie color, and is it dry or wet. The compression tester will have a gauge, with a hose with a fitting that screws into the spark plug hole. You screw the compression tester into one cylinder and then crank the engine for several seconds (with the throttle held open). The gauge will read, and hold the peak pressure.

Note the peak pressure, and then move the gauge to the next cylinder, and repeat the process. The compression should be about 180 psi, but the difference between the highest and lowest reading is the most important thing here. 5% is good ie 15~20 psi. The greater the difference the worse the problem..

This is also a good time for a tune up. You state the plugs are ok? How many miles/kilometers? Were the gaps checked? Very important! I used to not believe that gapping plugs was critical, I do believe it now ( I have several ASE certs, one is the L1 advanced engine diagnostics, I have a little bit experience with this). I assume that you have also measured the resistance of the spark plug wires, along with checking the cap and rotor. Once you check the compression, let us know what the results are.

Now as far as auto transmission go, they are not my strong point. I do know the basics, and I assure you that you will be in a much better position to evaluate the trans after you have figured out why the engine is running poorly. At this point I would just make note of the transmission fluid condition, and make sure that the level is correct.

Compression check seems easy to do. I'll try to look for the tester, or pay a visit to a dealer. I don't know how much, but I post it here? How much in US?

Plugs are dry, a little dark, I should've taken some pics of it.

I see that you have an experience. Really, would you say that adjusting spark plug gap is OK?

I have a new NGK BKR6EP-11 here, waiting for replace, bought them sooner - was a good price on them. I measured the gaps with a slide calliper (0,02mm tolerance), they are perfectly OK.

It has 235000km (around 142000miles). Changed oil, oil filter, ATF (filter last year - wasn't required), coolant, brake fluid, maybe soon I'll drain the powersteering/cooling fan fluid (Dexron II). I'll measure the resistance of spark plug wires, do a compression check. I will change the plugs in march.

How to check cap and rotor? Btw, aren't those supposed to be in a carburated engine?

Tranny was drained and filled twice this year, it was brown, now its more orange (cca 6 litres in tranny + cca 3 litres in reservoir)

Just plz tell me, when adjusting throttle cable (kick-down tranny cable), manual says that there should be a 0-1mm of stopper visible from a rubber boot. But after adjustment, there is still a little slack. And when engine started and fully warmed up, the dashpot moves down resulting in -1mm inside the rubber boot (outside cable) with bigger slack.

What about this?

TPS can cause all sorts of problems with accelerating, but without the throttle moving, the voltage should be steady. The MAF should also be fairly steady. I would suggest checking compression, note the color of each plug, and any issues with compression. You should be seeing around 180 psi (not sure what that would translate to kg cm3). If there are any low cylinders pay special attention to the condition of the plug.

Do not worry about the transmission now, focus your attention into getting the engine running correctly.

Do not get overwhelmed by the list of possible causes, you need to check the basics, chances are that you will find the clue that will point to what should be checked next. I think that you are mistaken on how much these engines can adapt, there is a small window of adj, but once it gets out of that window you will notice problems.

I only pulled out 3 spark plugs, other 3 are underneath the air intake. What color on the sparkplugs should I see, if there is a wrong compression?

Also found something about torque converter, if damaged, will result in drivability. But also tranny solenoids.

I returned the stop screw to the right position, (applied vacuum to the dashpot and measured 0mm distance between stop lever and stop screw)

Then I set the TPS to right position based on resistance specified in manual.

Then the "kick-down" or throttle cable was adjusted so there is 0-1mm when throttle valve closed (but there is a little slack)

I'll visit the dealer to check the compression, this one I don't see as a DIY.

I suggest removing the throttle body and soaking it, you really need to get it move freely.

Next I would suggest checking the coolant temp sensor, keep in mind that the computer uses it's own separate sensor. So just because the dash gauge reads normally, the computer sensor could still be bad. A bad sensor could explain the rich mixture.

The next thing to check are the O2 sensors Bank 1 sensor 1 & bank 2 sensor 1. These control the mixture and could also explain the rich condition. I do not think that the MAF is your problem, but it is a good idea to check it thoughtly. Keeping in mind that the sensor is mainly a mechanical device on this year. First make sure the vane moves freely, without sticking. Measure the voltage, +5, grd and signal. The signal should change smothly if you move the vane with your finger. And measure the Air temp sensor (inside the MAF))

Have you done a compression check? And what is the mileage on your car?

I must mention again, that this sticking at the beginning is happening only when vacuum to dashpot is applied. When the vacuum is not applied, it is not sticking.

Maybe this valve openner sticking is stopping or slowing down the dashpot (in case of overvalued pressure??)

I looked at the troubleshooting in manual, it is insane, many things could cause this symptom. On the other hand, many of these electromechanical parts have a certain tolerance, in case that one thing goes wrong, other things will adapt to it.

I think, that this could be caused 60% TPS and 40% some tranny solenoid.

I suggest removing the throttle body and soaking it, you really need to get it move freely.

Next I would suggest checking the coolant temp sensor, keep in mind that the computer uses it's own separate sensor. So just because the dash gauge reads normally, the computer sensor could still be bad. A bad sensor could explain the rich mixture.

The next thing to check are the O2 sensors Bank 1 sensor 1 & bank 2 sensor 1. These control the mixture and could also explain the rich condition. I do not think that the MAF is your problem, but it is a good idea to check it thoughtly. Keeping in mind that the sensor is mainly a mechanical device on this year. First make sure the vane moves freely, without sticking. Measure the voltage, +5, grd and signal. The signal should change smothly if you move the vane with your finger. And measure the Air temp sensor (inside the MAF))

Have you done a compression check? And what is the mileage on your car?

146 022 miles, bought in Torronto, Canada.

CTS is OK, like new, measured ohms by manual.

Oil is OK, coolant is OK, ATF is OK, air filter is OK.

O2s don't know if OK, haven'ŧ checked them, but they would show Check Engine? Am I right?

I opened the throttle, It looks that this sticking is from manufacture. Can't clean, it just stuck (little but can feel it) at the beginning.

What is vane?

Second thing is, that my engine is not braking when throttle pedal released with O/D on at highway. RPMs just suddenly fall. When I turn O/D off, they return. Engine braking at L and 2 is working.

what about mass air flow meter and hose?

Nope. They were measured and checked OK.

Try taking the cables off of the throttle body, see if the thottle blade moves smoothly then. You need to isolate what is actually binding. You may have to pull the entire body off to soak it in cleaner, but you must get it to move freely.

As for the IAC, did you spray it with cleaner, or did you take it apart? If may need to be taken apart, but concentrate on the throttle body first Until that is moving correctly, you will not get good throttle control even if the IAC is working correctly.

You did not mention in your post, but have you checked all the vac hoses? Including the PCV? Leaks of un metered air will also cause problems with unstable idle.

The picture in you first post, the arrow is pointing around 750 RPM, that is normal. Are you saying at that speed it is shaking the steering wheel? If so check the plugs/wires/dist cap. What color are the plugs? Can you smell gas in the exhaust? How many miles on the car?

Last the hard shifting, are you talking about between gears? Or just when you move between drive/ neut/ rev?

I'm playing with it the whole day.

Cables off won't help it. PCV is OK, I haven't mentioned that there is no O/D blinking nor Check Engine light. Seems everything is fine, even on Bosch ESI diag, borrowed from one of my neighbours. IAC just sprayed into the hole, not dismounted.

Yes, the car is shaking, more than diesel volkswagen.

Plugs are OK.

Wires - OK

Distributor cap - OK

Yes, checked the exhaust, seems like too much fuel on same amount of air (no black nor blue or very white)

No, between N-D N-R is just a slight kick, but while driving, I put a little pressure on the throttle, 1st-2nd is rough - feel like on manual, when clutch pedal is quickly released. I found the info about TPS, that this mostly affects the sooner/later shifting. This one I adjusted like manual says. Inserted thickness gauge 0.7mm, should be without continuity. 0.35mm should have continuity.

I was at our Toyota reseller for changing fluids, they haven't noticed any faulty.

What would you do?

You should not have adj the throttle stop screw. If possible, try to return it to the original position. It sounds like you have a couple problems.

First, the sticking throttle, Remove the rubber intake tube, and check the throttle blade. It probably has a buildup of dirt around the blade and body. This is restricting the normal airflow into the engine. Get a can of carb cleaner, use a couple rags, and clean off all the dirt.

Second, there is a air idle control valve. This valve is probably dirty, and sticking. This valve is what the ECM uses to control idle speed. Do a search on this forum, there is a lot of information on the idle control, and how to clean it.

I checked it before this operation. It is pretty clean. I also used throttle cleaner on IAC. Yes, I skimmed all of the topics about this car on this and other forums. I got all the information.

My head is going to explode. Sometimes its shifting smooth, sometimes hard, depends maybe on my foot. When I drive newer car with auto tranny, it is always shifting smooth, regardless of my foot pressure on throttle.

I hope someone solved it.

Maybe you could know, on the Lexus ES300 1995, applied vacuum to dashpot, stop lever screw adjusted to no clearance, should I turn it a little bit more?

Throttle valve is stick at the beginning, I must push it a little bit harder. But only at the beginning. Is this OK? Is it for the idle?

After adjusting stop screw, I adjusted TPS and corrected throttle cable. All based on the information from service manual for 1993 ES300

I was seeking for the solution, my lex is shaking my hands on the steering wheel, when fully warmed up and idling. Too low RPM?

Yes, it is old car, but it is a good one.

Is this RPM level ok?

not needed, also replace gromat (rubber peice which hold PCV on Valve cover).

Turn engine on, disconnect hose from pcv, you will hear lots of vacuum, spay TB cleaneer in vacuum

that will clean hose all the way to intake.

if nobody replace for longtime chances of Gromat break a part and falls inside, there is grill between valve and valve cover, nothing to worry.

Every 15,000 i do replace gromat and PCV. and my all cars oil caps looks brand new.

Did it, it required a slight throttle pedal pushing during start, lot of smoke, I left it started for a minute, then went on the road, I felt a difference while pressing throttle pedal, it was smoother acceleration, and that buzzing noise in range cca 1800 - 2200 rpms was almost gone (still is there, but much less). Many thanks. Just the detail, I haven't had the hose disconnected during started engine. I just sprayed TB into hose, PCV and engine, connected them all, waited 15 minutes and then started engine. Was it sufficient? Or should I let the hose soak up TB while disconnected?

Many thanks.

That oil is normal, I also checked with another technician.

He is telling you correct. That is a sign of bad PCV. make sure you replace PCV, clean hoses(PCV)by spaying

TB cleaner.

OK, did it, PCV and hose has TB inside, should I spray some to the opening in engine, where PCV is inserted?

Matej,

You definitely have some dirty oil in your engine, and have had for some time. Its very hard to tell how the previous owner treated the oil change schedule, but I'd bet it didn't see regular service before you bought the car. That aside, you need to double up on the oil and filter changes for the next several changes in order to get a lot of the gunk out. By that, I mean do your oil change every 3 - 4 thousand kms instead of the stated interval in your owner's manual for the next 4 changes.

You may find some posters here who will suggest putting some engine cleaners in with your oil to loosen up the gunk and flush it out. Check with a mechanic who you trust before you do. You may create a bigger problem than you'll fix.

As well, you really shouldn't be mixing different oils. Buy the best oil that is suggested in your owner's manual that you can afford and stick with it. That will give you the longest engine life. Good Luck!

Hi there,

I called the Toyota authorised servis, showed them those photos, they said that it is ok, since this is only filler, where oil is poured through, and when is not cleaned, it will stick there due to high temperature. They said that if this gunk or carbon is not on the dipstick and oil temperature sensor, than I should not fear.

Ofcourse I want now them to check on it better, they enrolled me on the 8th December. I'll let you know.

Hello LexGuys

Do you consider these pictures as bad?

I was just checking fluid levels this evening, and I just opened the oil filler and got shocked. I always let profesionals to deal with car service, every oil change with brakes check and cleaning, rotating wheels, pressure etc. So I did not mess with the engine. But this looks scary and tomorrow I will call to that service. Now I 'd like to know from you guys, if you ever experienced this, what could cause this?

Car is Lexus ES300, 1995 yr with 235 000 km on clock.

Oil and filter change at previous owner was 8000 km, I continued with it.

I can't remember if it was like this when I got this car (I just think it wasn't).

What can I imagine right now is that at last oil change, I used 1 litre of non-API oil (just ACEA A3/B4) to 3.5 litres API SL (One thing is for sure, both oils were not marked as energy conserving, there is no such thing in European oil market??!).

I got the new oil and filter, but right now, I will not do anything, until I got the answer from local service, which I was visiting.

Guys, is it really bad just based on this filler?

Have you ever had a problem with the torque converter lockup? - during drive over 40mph, left the pedal, and it should stick with a gear, and downshift when rpm's are getting lower. What to do if RPMs make a big jump in decrease, when throttle pedal is fully released?

Big THX ;)

Hi all, I'm kind of new to these forums. Looks like a great place to get advice so I'll give it a try. I have a 98 es300, 105k miles. I perform all maint. myself, the only problem this car has ever had was a o2 sensor heater error, replaced the sensor and all was well.

Recently a new problem has come up. If I only drive the car for 10 or 20 min. it does fine. But when I drive it for over about 40 min and it gets hot, the car idle is not steady, it's like it cuts out about every 2 sec., sounds like it's going to stall, then revs to about 1k, it will just sit there and cycle like that, rpm going back and forth from about 500 to 1000. If I turn the car off for a min. and restart it still does it. If I give it gas it will rev up and smooths out about 3k but anything under it still has a small cycle in the engine rpms. I also took the gas cap off for a sec. in case there was a vacuum in tank but no change.The other strange thing was the exhaust seemed to have kind of a sulfer smell. No warning lights come on on dash.

If I let the car cool for about 20min. it runs fine again. I have run some lucas fuel treatment in about the last 5 tanks but no help. the car has clean air filter, almost new spark plugs, I need to check my maint. notes to see if I have changed the fuel filter I'm not sure.

I plan on checking how old the fuel filter is, I have also read on here about a idle control valve and am kind of wondering if that could be the problem. I don't mind trying to clean parts but I can't afford to just start changing parts, I may end up biting the bullet on this one and just take it to the dealer but I'll be very upset with myself it it turns out to be something simple.

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks-Dave

Faulty TPS, change it before it goes wrong. It is cheap part. If it's adjustable, don't mess with it, let your car mechanic adjust it.

Photo while engine was fully warmed up and idle. Throttle stop screw and stop lever on TB has no clearance. But throttle opener has. Should I unscrew throttle stop screw until this 5mm opener clearance disappear?

ES300 1995 -- NGK BKR6EP-11 platinum

Got ES300 1995 as a 20yrs old. Now I'm 22, still having it.

maybe someone can help me so I dont have to take it to the shop. when the weather is cold around 15 degrees or below my ES 300 does not idle smoothly when I start it up it goes up and down very erraticly and sometimes it cant idle. when its 30 and above it idles fine. does anyone know whats going on? Thanks.......

Hey there!

It is the TPS (throttle possitioning sensor), sometimes adjusting is enough, but I would recommend a new one. Visit your local store, it should be cheap cca 15-30USD.

Where it is? Open the hood, look at the "butterfly" - throttle valve, it is behind it, on the other side of intake pipe.

Do not remove it on yourself, do not even loose its screws. Ohm meter, socket for that TPS is needed and you need 0.70mm and 0.35mm thin pads to make it right.

Best regards.

Sorry for spamming

The worst car = Audi 100 yr 1988. Bought new, driven for 10 years, sold with value of 700USD (15.000.- SKK)