Anwisok

1.) Initial looking around the web I see a lot of praise for Amsoil? Amsoil is one of the, or possibly THE, best out there. It is also 100% synthetic, which most aren' t - they're actually blends of synthetic and dino oil. I ran Mobil 1 in my Caddy and in my Explorer, so I'm not putting down the blends, but - if you're going synthetic, why not go fully synthetic, if it's easy to get in your area? 2.) Can I switch straight to synthetic? Yes. If the inside of your motor is dirty, switching to synthetic will help clean it up. This is a good thing, BUT!!!!! - there is a possibility that some of your gaskets/seals may start leaking after the switch. If the car has gotten its oil changes as needed, this should not be a problem, but if the car was neglected . . . :( Other than that possible issue, you should have no problems switching over. Should (slightly) help your gas mileage, too! 3.) My hood struts don't work anymore. Are these an easy bolt on/bolt off repair? Haven't done this repair yet, so can't really give you a definite answer. I'll leave this one to someone else, rather than speculating.

I'll probably go with Jim Walker, although he actually did NOT end up being the least expensive. Everyone else I've emailed/called has given me a kinda generic answer. Mr. Walker, on the other hand, gave a clear explanation of exactly what needed to be done, and which of my problems each repair item would correct. As he said in his email , though - "you have just about every problem that can go wrong" - which means that the total would be $625, plus 25 more if I want it overnighted back. :cries: Ohwell. I knew going in that there would be some stuff that just can't be fixed cheaply on these cars. Guess I'll just have to suck it up and take it like a man. At least, since it'll be a fully reconditioned cluster, I shouldn't have any more problems with it.

I was actually composing an email inquiry to him at the same time you posted this. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. Called Mikado - geve me a price range of 245 - 490, depending on exactly what needs done when he gets the unit. At $490, I'd essentially have a fully rebuilt cluster. I saw this on ebay: cluster repair service for $160. The seller's id is mandigital, in Minnesota. I wrote him and described the exact issues I'm having. He said all would be included in that price, except the one fading needle I have - replacing that would add $245. (ouch) Has anyone used this person for these repairs? Oh . . . and I guess I'm a member of the "family" here. When the Gen Mgr. for the Jag dealer, who happens to be a personal friend, tells you you should buy "that car" instead of getting one of their trade ins (at cost +$100.00), you know it's a good deal. :P

I have an opportunity to buy a 93 LS400 with 183 k miles on it for $2700. This was basically a one-family car, has full records to 90k, and I can contact the previous owner with specific questions (like, was the timing belt changed when it came due the second time around). The current owner, a friend of mine, bought it for even less, with the intention of turning a profit, and knows the original family personally. Overall, the car is in VERY good shape, with a few minor issues which simply add character and can be addressed as time and budget permit. It does, however, have one (possibly two, but they may be related) issue/s which concern/s me. The car has an issue with the instrument cluster which I have not seen directly addressed, and I wonder if anyone can give any guidance on this specific issue. The car has the fading speedo needle, which I have seen addressed numerous times. I also has an issue where the instrument cluster is simply dead when cold. Unless the car has been heated by sitting in the sun for an extended period, the tach/gas gauge/temp gauge simply do not move - even after the car has been driven a significant distance. I've seen numerous prices for cluster repair, seemingly dependent on exactly what the problem is, ranging from 80 - 400 bucks. Does anyone have experience with this specific issue, and/or any idea where in that repair range this problem would fall? Possibly related is a problem with the speedo needle - when cold, it is also dead, but DOES (usually) come back to life after being driven for a while. Would you think this is related to the other cluster issue I'm seeing, or would this seem to be an issue with the tranny speed sensor which I have seen mentioned as being problematic? My next question concerns cost of repairs to the car. My brother is an ASE certified mechanic, and I'm a pretty good parts changer (although not a diagnostician). I figure that, between the two of us, repair manuals, and sites like this, we can fix 95+ % of problems that come up in the future. Let's face it, I'm only spending < $3k to buy it - I'm not going to take it in for dealer service for things that I don't have to. The question is, how many of the parts on this car are dealer specific? If I have a Chevy or Ford, I can go into any parts store in the country and damn near rebuild the whole car out of in-stock parts. Any DIYers here that can give me an idea of how often they'd send me off to the dealer for parts for this car? Thanks John Thomas