mxl4729

Nice job. I used a impact gun to get mine off. i was not able to get the cam gears off. made a tool and it just bent. gave up and cut the shield around the water pump to get it off.

this will tell you everything and anything you want to know about AC

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/manuaisecatalogos/01/AutomotiveHeatingandAirConditioning.pdf

I have a 97 es300 that has a squeal when turning the wheel. i looked under and it was leaking power steering fluid. one of the lines had rusted at a bend untill it started leaking. cut out the rusted section and replaced it with brake line and some rubber hose. refilled the fluid and it has been fine ever since.

mine takes ATF fluid. if u put power power steering fluid instead of ATF it will squel. make sure u use ATF if it take ATF

anything and everything u ever wanted to know about AC and fixing AC

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/manuaisecatalogos/01/AutomotiveHeatingandAirConditioning.pdf

I have a 6 disk changer that mounts in the truck out of my 1997 ES300 i would sell. let me know if you are intrested freematt55555@gmail.com

i would say it is just becaue of the cold. now that it is warming up i think u will see it go back.

two reasons why it gets bad in the winter

Weaker gasoline

Gasoline doesn't vaporize readily at very cold temperatures. So oil companies formulate fuel differently for cold-weather markets in the winter. Unfortunately, the changes that provide better cold vaporization characteristics also result in less available energy for combustion. You won't get as far on a gal of winter gas as you will on a gal of summer gas.

Temp

Have a gander at these calculations for a Honda Civic hybrid at 60 MPH in varying ambient temperatures:

MPH-----AMBIENT-TEMP-----MPG (US)

60------------95----------52.98

60------------85----------52.62

60------------75----------51.16

60------------65----------49.12

60------------55----------47.22

60------------45----------44.67

60------------35----------43.05

60------------25----------41.54

60------------15----------39.41

60------------05----------38.09

Look at the extremes: the coldest MPG is 28% lower than the warmest.

I did valve guide seals on a 1986 ford ranger V6 a few years back and it took me about 12 hours. Had to use a tool to connect my air compressor to the spark plug hole and keep the cylinder under pressure so the seals could be removed and replaced.

All i can say is the job was a huge pain in the !Removed!.

the way to tell if it is the rings or the valve guide seals is simple. all you need is some oil and a compression checker.

first check the compression in each cylinder and write it down. next add about 3 cap fulls of oil to each cylinder right before you check the compression again. if the number go way up its your rings that have gone bad. if they do not go up then its your valve guide seals.

hope this helps

Matt

So all the key fobs i had for my 1997 ES300 when bad. The cheepest replacment i could find was 80 bucks. So i figured for 25 i can get a remote start with keyless entry.

So i got the

Bulldog RS1100 Remote Starter with Keyless Entry

http://www.amazon.com/Bulldog-RS1100-Remote-Starter-Keyless/dp/B00009WC2S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1270051118&sr=8-1

Installed the unit using the wireing digram below.

The only wire that i did not connect was the DOOR TRIGGER.

well i can remote start the car and it will run for 10 seconds then turn off. then it will remote start again and turn off and the alarm will go off.

I called tech support and they said the only way to get around this was to use the factor key fob then the remote start. This does not work becuase i no longer have the key fob.

anyone have any idea or have a remote start in the lexus ES 300 1997 and up

matt

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/printpage.asp?ModelID=18879&MakeID=27

MODEL YEAR(S)

ES300 1997 -

KEY T-HARNESS IMMOBILIZER

N/A N/A N/A

PART COLOR LOCATION

12 VOLT CONSTANT WHITE (+) and WHITE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

STARTER RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

STARTER 2 N/A

IGNITION 1 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

IGNITION 2 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

IGNITION 3 N/A

ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BLUE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A

KEYSENSE N/A

PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) GREEN (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS

PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) GREEN/ORANGE (+) or GREEN/BLACK (+) @ WHITE PLUG, BOTTOM OF FUSEBOX

POWER LOCK DARK BLUE/WHITE (TYPE B) See NOTE *1 @ ORANGE PLUG, BOTTOM OF FUSEBOX

POWER UNLOCK DARK BLUE (TYPE B) See NOTE *1 @ ORANGE PLUG, BOTTOM OF FUSEBOX

DOOR TRIGGER RED/WHITE (-) TOP RIGHT SIDE OF FUSEBOX, in 7-PIN PLUG

DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #775 Relay

TRUNK RELEASE RED (-), Requires Part #775 Relay @ TRUNK RELEASE SWITCH

SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A

HORN GREEN/BLACK (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS

TACH GRAY See NOTE *2

WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A

BRAKE GREEN/WHITE (+) @ BOTTOM OF FUSEBOX

FACTORY ALARM DISARM DISARMS WITH UNLOCK

ANTI-THEFT N/A

EXTRA INFORMATION

NOTE *1 THE LOCK AND UNLOCK WIRES ARE ABOUT 18 GAUGE.THEY WILL ONLY TEST BY TURNING THE KEY IN THE PASSENGER DOOR LOCK CYLINDER. NOTE *2 ON THE 6 CYLINDER MOTORS USE THE GRAY WIRE LOCATED AT THE IGNITIOR ON A BRACKET, JUST IN FRONT OF THE DRIVERS SIDE STRUT TOWER.THE MODULE SAYS "DENSO" ON IT.

Can anyone advise where I can purchase a split outer boot for 96 ES300? I really don't want to pull axle and have used split boots on K. Ghias in the past. Struck out at Auto Zone and Advanced Auto.

Thanks

from what i undersdand you can no longer get split boots. the ones that you glue would fail becuase people would get glue in the joint and then it would not seal.

the ones that came with hardware would fail becuase people would over tighten them and the boot would split.

Thanks. I guess you are right since I found zero with lots of web searching. I'm off to buy "real" boots and learn how to change!

I am in the same boat right now. from what i have found 2 boots cost you 50 bucks and a new half shaft is only 75.

so i might be worth it to just get the half shaft and save your self the time of cleaning out the cv joint and putting a new boot on.

also do you know how to get the axel out? have been reading up on it and it looks like there is a clip but not sure where and how to remove it

you can replace the boots yourself for like $25-30 each. easy to do. . .i done it on my ford a few years back

. take out the tire

. get a knife and cut old the old one.

. put the new one on and glue the halves together.

. add the grease that comes w/the new one. .

. put the ties and wheel back on. . done

if u r replacing the inner boot, make sure you have proper jack stands

Are you serious about gluing the boots ? :o I can't beleive that would last

They no longer make the split boot that you could glue together. the axel must be removed and the CV joint seperated so the boot can be changed.

I gess my new question is how to get the axel out?

I am looking in alldata and it says there is a snapring. were is this snap right and do i need a special tool to get it off

Can anyone advise where I can purchase a split outer boot for 96 ES300? I really don't want to pull axle and have used split boots on K. Ghias in the past. Struck out at Auto Zone and Advanced Auto.

Thanks

from what i undersdand you can no longer get split boots. the ones that you glue would fail becuase people would get glue in the joint and then it would not seal.

the ones that came with hardware would fail becuase people would over tighten them and the boot would split.

I plan to change my timing belt in the next month or so. In addition to changing the timing belt, I plan to change the water pump, #1 and #2 idler pully, timing belt tensioner, crankshaft and cam seals.

My question is on the crankshaft and cam seals, do I access those by taking off the timing belt cover 3? How hard is it to change these?

Thanks!

I did the timming belt and water pump in my 1997 lexus es 300 myslef and it took me something like 12 hours to do.

the problems i ran into was i could not get the cam sprockets off to remove the plate behind them which also covers part of the water pump.

I tried eveything to get the sprockets off with no luck.

i ended up cutting the cover with a dremel tool so i could get the water pump out. but the studs were so long it hit the frame rail. i had to disconect the motor mounts so i could jack the engine up just enought to slip the water pump out.

But i did get it done and it was my first time. just make sure you have a service manual when you did it. If you do not i can email you the info you need to get it done

Matt

Thanks for the reply Matt. I have the factory service manual, so I think I am good there. Also, I have changed timing belts in the past, just not on this car...in fact, I have not done much of anything on this car. When you did this, did you replace the cam and crank seals too? While I have everything open down there, I want to try and do as much of the little things that I can to avoid any issues in the future.

I also planned on the whole weekend to get this done...so I should be good there. Thanks again for the reply.

I did not replace any seals. They were not leaking so i left them alone. I did mine about a year ago when my car reached 100k i have put about 30K on with no problems.

The only problem i had durring the job was the cam sprockets. i was never able to get them off.

I plan to change my timing belt in the next month or so. In addition to changing the timing belt, I plan to change the water pump, #1 and #2 idler pully, timing belt tensioner, crankshaft and cam seals.

My question is on the crankshaft and cam seals, do I access those by taking off the timing belt cover 3? How hard is it to change these?

Thanks!

I did the timming belt and water pump in my 1997 lexus es 300 myslef and it took me something like 12 hours to do.

the problems i ran into was i could not get the cam sprockets off to remove the plate behind them which also covers part of the water pump.

I tried eveything to get the sprockets off with no luck.

i ended up cutting the cover with a dremel tool so i could get the water pump out. but the studs were so long it hit the frame rail. i had to disconect the motor mounts so i could jack the engine up just enought to slip the water pump out.

But i did get it done and it was my first time. just make sure you have a service manual when you did it. If you do not i can email you the info you need to get it done

Matt

I have a 1997 Lexus es300

One of my CV joints seems to be leaking grease around the clamp but the boot has not ripped yet.

I think it is early enough that I can change the boot and add more grease

OR

I can replace the entire half shaft with an aftermarket one

The price is about the same for two new boots from Lexus or an a aftermarket half shaft.

Does anyone know the quality of aftermarket half shafts?

They seem so cheep is the only reason I ask.

Has anyone done this job? Do I need any special tools to remove the half shaft?

i under stand the adding grounds and i can see how that will help. but i have a question what is the Voltage Stabilizer? is it a big capacitor or something? does anyone know? can i make one out of something? I have seen them before and thought it was a lot of money for something that might not do anything

well i may try this

I found this store on ebay

http://stores.ebay.com/Performance-Curve

they have flex pipes and sections of pipe with lots of different bends so u can put together what ever u need.

the problem is still the ends and the time it takes to make one.

I would need an old one to use as a template so i could still use my car. i will keep my eye out for a used one and if i find it i may do it

Toysrme

i like what i see but i have a couple more questions

how did u bend your pipe that is one thing i do not have access to

also were could i get the flanges to mount them to the headers and were could i get a flex pipe so as not to have the engine brake my headers when i hit the gas

I have welded in a couple of cat and removed a couple of cats and welded in a pipe before so i am sure i could do it.

Is it realy that much of a HP gain?

and if it is y does no aftermarket make one?

It shouldn't. You didn't cut the dog-bone mount off did you???

Wire feed welding. :) You've *got* to make yourself a new y-pipe. You'll be thanking me for years every time you hit > 4500rpm.

u have any pics or info on this y pipe i would love to put the welder to use

do u think it is going to be a problem that i trimed this metal around the water pump? i did not think of it at the time but looking back it seams that the timming belt area is sealed up and now it is no longer becusae i trimed around the water pump

its a lot of work to take off the valve covers. i am not even sure how u get to the rear

is that how they do it in the dealer ship?

is there any other way?

has anyone goten the waterpump out themselfs?

So I have been looking into rims for my 1992 ES300 for a while and I decided to order the RX330 18X7 chrome wheels. The ES300 size is 18X7.5 but when I ordered them It said it fits the ES300. So I figured what the why not. Now I have to get tires put on and balanced but all the people around are saying they probably not going to fit! Some people say I am going to need spacers, and some say that eveything is going to fit alright. I dont wanna buy the tires untill I know if the wheels are going to fit or not... Does anybody know?? or do I have to go on the Ray Gibson and Claude Banks killing spree? and another thing, if I get spacers arn't they dangerous so that the wheel can come off while I am driving down the street with a fly !Removed! biatttch?

please help!!!

Not sure about the RX but i have IS rims on my ES and they did not fit with our spacers in the rear. the hole difference from rear to front wheel drive.

well i add 3/16 spacers in the rear and got them to fit. i have had them on for over and year and 20000 miles and the wheels have not come off yet. i would not go bigger then 3/16 with out changing the studs though. sory i can not be more help

Thanks for the help... how much did you pay for those spacers?

like 20 bucks shipped from ebay i got the 3/16 inch ones thats all i needed for my clearence. i added washers till i had eought space then i took them off when i had enought and measured them thats how i came up with the 3/16.

again i only put them in the rear i had enought space in the front. but when i turn the wheel all the way i get a little bit of rubbing. spacers might fix that but i would rather not run spacers on the driving wheels of the car

We last week i did the timing belt and water pump. please take a look at my pics i had a lot of problems and to some i found some half !Removed! solutions. like i was unable to get the cam sprocket off so if anyone knows how to do that i would love to know

Ok i got to here and could not get the cam sprocket off. i tryed everything i even tryed making a tool pictured below to hold the sprocket but it just bent it up. I have no idea how to get them off and would love to know how any one did it

all bent up and it still would not come off so i gave up and cut the cover with my dremell

here i start cutting i realy did not want to do this but i had no other idea how to get it out

when the waterpump was free it still would not come out becuase the studs are to long and it hits the frame. i had to put wood under the oil pan and jack up the engine a little to wiggle it out

to reset this little timingbelt tencher u need to use a press and push the plunger back in and put a alen key in there to hold it

So I have been looking into rims for my 1992 ES300 for a while and I decided to order the RX330 18X7 chrome wheels. The ES300 size is 18X7.5 but when I ordered them It said it fits the ES300. So I figured what the why not. Now I have to get tires put on and balanced but all the people around are saying they probably not going to fit! Some people say I am going to need spacers, and some say that eveything is going to fit alright. I dont wanna buy the tires untill I know if the wheels are going to fit or not... Does anybody know?? or do I have to go on the Ray Gibson and Claude Banks killing spree? and another thing, if I get spacers arn't they dangerous so that the wheel can come off while I am driving down the street with a fly !Removed! biatttch?

please help!!!

Not sure about the RX but i have IS rims on my ES and they did not fit with our spacers in the rear. the hole difference from rear to front wheel drive.

well i add 3/16 spacers in the rear and got them to fit. i have had them on for over and year and 20000 miles and the wheels have not come off yet. i would not go bigger then 3/16 with out changing the studs though. sory i can not be more help

Anyone got two 12 inch subs with a 1300 watt amp didnt think so well i do in my sweet 1995 ES 300 it kicks and this car can really ride smooth im a new lexus owner tell me if you know how to inprove the performence please leave a post.

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i would like to beleve you but, with out a pic it makes it very hard