HMac

Thanks to all for the input. And SK, I'll certainly use the search feature - did try a topic scan before posting but will use the "forum" search feature in the future. :) In reading the posts, it seems there are three components to be cleaned (throttle body, IACV and EGR (thanks Melhadri) and that clearly seems to be the first step (with perhaps a motorvac at the same time. It also seems that some people have had the IACV and/or the EGR replaced. If cleaning doesn't do the trick, how much should a new IACV go for? The EGR? lexusk8, I do recall hearing the whining noice from the steering wheel in the winter when my car was out in the cold. that's what I attributed to, since it has happened irregularly (I don't recall hearing it recently). Also lexusk8, has your experience at the Toyota of Greenwich dealership (instead of the Lexus dealership) been good? I was not pleased with Lexus of Westport - way, way too expensive -- and could give Toyota of Westport a shot. I'm using Penfield Automotive in downtown Fairfield, but I'm a little disappointed that he didn't figure this out for me. Thanks again to you all and to eman be lexin as well

thanks very much. I'm going to have to bring it in and I'll talk to my guy about that (unfortunately I don't have the skill to get under the hood like you do). And I'll keep you posted as to how things turn out.

Thanks man, I think I have to take off the plenum to get to my 3 rear plugs, where the plenum attaches to that intake, is that where I should spray the injector cleaner? Speakign of which, do I need to take off that plenum to get to the rear plugs? ← Blackes2000 - note that I just posted what sounds like the same problem, though when I accelerate and pump up the RPMs, I still need to keep my foot on the gas pedal . Has your problem been solved by changing the plugs or otherwise?

My car has alot of miles (113K) and has been pretty solid overall, (new timing belt a little while ago/recent rotors and back pads), however about 6 or 7 months ago, I tried to start it, and perhaps didn't turn the key fully, and it would turn over but it wouldn't idle. So I kept my foot on the gas (neutral and red lights) and headed to my mechanic (he's pretty good overall, I stopped going to the dealership about 2 years ago), and before I got the 3 or 4 miles to the shop it was ok. With no "check engine" light on, he did a test and couldn't find anything -- had him look a couple of other times since with no luck. This then would appear say once a a month since; and then go back to "normal" Well now it's happening again and it's happening alot more frequently almost every time I start - and even when it's working it's idling very low, say .5. Any thoughts? Thanks.

I think I have one (comes highly recommended), and my initial dealings with him, though limited, have been very good. This 90k service/timing belt will be the first major test so.. time will tell!! thanks again for all your input

:D Thanks to all -- I'm just bringing it in for the 90k and was wondering about the timing belt -- will get that done. Sounds like my thoughts of sticking with this baby for 3-4 years before turning it over to my kids (God help the poor car then!) are reasonable. What about struts -- should I expect to replace them soon (haven't had to yet)?

I've got a ES300 that I'm quite happy with -- 90k in three years. I expect to continue to put 30k a year on and I'm trying to figure out how many years I can expect and if I should expect some serious repair bills. I've maintained it well and have only had to replace the tires and brakes. Your thoughts on possible mileage and cost would be much appreciated.

My 2001 ES had the same problem (check engine & track off). I brought it in 3 or 4 times (initially under warranty) , they changed the gas cap the first or second time (and charged me!) and then about the 4th time realized it was the charcoal cannister. I can't remember all the details about the pricing (b/c I had service done and a slight upholstery fix done also), but I'm pretty sure they didn't charge me for the charcoal cannister b/c the first time I brought it in it was under warranty. Why engineers think it's a good idea to have the engine light go on when the gas cap is loose (also happens on my Honda Odyssey) is beyond me. How about a "loose gas cap" Light?!