djones

Has anyone found anybody making exact fit struts for the GX? I've only been able to find the factory part and the cheapest for about $235 each. Since two should be replaced, this is pretty high cost without even considering labor. I really am not inclined to get a "universal" fit version.

Thanks for any ideas.

QUOTE: "I get my kits for $95 with a one year warranty. I've installed them on about 17 or so cars this year with only one problem which was covered. I guess you can thank china for cheap reverse engineering."

djspawn00,

You failed to mention where you get the $95 kits ...

Where's the cheapest place to get true oem pads for the front?

Thanks for the diagnostic info; just what I was looking for there, Anyone had to deal with the exact same problem?

Hi,

Can anyone tell me what these mean? I have a 95 sc400 w/ 134 system and a replacement compressor about 6 months old. Blows warm (when cold wanted) and cold (when warm wanted) ONLY at idle. Works fine at higher rpm. Does anyone have the proper hi and low pressure ranges for various temps? I believe I'm running above range on the lo pressure side and well below range on the Hi pressure side. The clutch is engaged.

I think one of my front wheel bearings is on it's way out. Getting a constant humming/rubbing noise.

For what it's worth... I also thought I might have had this problem in the past... after searching this forum about the topic and how rare this problem is, I found that my problems were actually:

1. a brake pad wear indicator and

2. bad tire wear.

It may be worth getting it diagnosed as opposed to just "done".

I have ordered these for front and rear from a local dealer. Since then I read on another forum (my other car is a Jag XJR, fun to drive but falls apart!) about these pads being hi-squeal and eating rotors. They are due to arrive any day now. I'm looking for no squeal, low dust, long wear and to be rotor friendly. I last put Axxis Metal masters on the back and got short life with a lot of dusting. On both forums everyone seems to have an opinion. I guess I'm asking for the latest. I'll be using "plain" Brembo rotors...

...brake pads seem to be a subject no one wants to touch...

My wife went through the autowash with the radio on. Needless to say, the antenna is completely lost, including the retractor inside.....all gone.

Any good suggestions for replacement?

see the "AfterMarket Antenna" topic from 30 Aug... looks like good info... the wiring is key. I botched mine and now leave it permanently recessed.

It works great but the original headlights had a slight coating to prevent the yellowing. Once sanded off you need to replace it or it yellows even faster again in a few weeks.

I wet sanded mine down ,high speed buffed the headlights, turn signals and fog lights. Then covered them with clear bra vinyl and they look even better than just the buffing as they are now perfectly smooth. The pitting is gone and filled by the vinyl as well.

...don't all these "outer" treatments assume that the inner seal has not been comprimised? I still had to open mine up because someone before me had seen fit to drill small holes at the bottom of the lens to release moisture (I assume).

The vinyl bra makes sense to me. I have it across my entire front, except the lights. SK, How long have you run this way?

I have ordered these for front and rear from a local dealer. Since then I read on another forum (my other car is a Jag XJR, fun to drive but falls apart!) about these pads being hi-squeal and eating rotors. They are due to arrive any day now. I'm looking for no squeal, low dust, long wear and to be rotor friendly. I last put Axxis Metal masters on the back and got short life with a lot of dusting. On both forums everyone seems to have an opinion. I guess I'm asking for the latest. I'll be using "plain" Brembo rotors...

I have them in 2 of my cars and love them to death.

With a good flush it will brake on a dime.

Good to hear. I'm making the switch then. Because a couple of months ago I changed out my pads & rotors all the way around plus did a brake fluid flush and the brake pedal was just as mushy as always - even after the new pads got seated to the rotors. So I'm looking forward to trying the braided brake lines (along with another flush)

Thanks.

I'd like to know where you got them and how much... also the fit...

Thanks ahead of time.

You definitely also want to see if the little orange (I think, or is it red?) plastic clip is broken that connects the key lock mechanism to the rod that comes up from the door opening mechanism. If so, you may be able to replace it without removing any other pieces.

I'm actually half way inside my door, as well, but for a different reason. The rod that pushes down to open the door from the outside has broken off inside the mechanism and thus doesn't always engage. I have replaced the plastic connecting clip to the door handle twice already. Makes me want to suggest your check the other clip as I mentioned, above. Someone said Lexus made it the weak link to reduce breakins.

I have already picked up 2 new bolts from the dealer for the window guides because I have ruined the phillips head on the one at the bottom of the door. Lexus did not ever want these removed! I'm going to try this weekend to loosen the bottom bolt and work the entire door mechanism out from behind the window guide without removing the window. I'll let you know how it goes if you're interested.

Djones

95 SC400

190k

Ok, so my passenger door lock does not lock or unlock when you press the button. You have to manually lock and unlock it. First it was intermitternt, then you could only lock, then it only twitched, and now it doesnt move.

I took off the inner door and the plastic to see the actuator. But I don't know how to take the actuator out. Looks like the window guide is in the way of it. Any ideas on how to get it all out? Can't seem to get the bolts out from the window guides.

I have a 93 sc300 and aparently this is a common problem. Anyone done this repare before?

Thanks.

Are you saying you bought the mast and cable only from Lexus? If not where? ...and how much?

Djones

95 SC400

185 miles

I bought the cheapest replacement which was just the mast with the white trailing cable, didn't have to mess with new wires. It came with instructions which basicially had you unscrew the mast, turn it on and let the entire cable out, thread the new one in, turn off and let it pull it back. Worked for me. Searched prior posts.

My power antenna does not go up and down fully anymore as the gears are bad.

I got an aftermarket power antenna from ebay and it has 3 wires.

Red, Black and Green.

My stock Antenna has 5 wires, red, black, Green, blue and black/yellow.

How do I connect so that the poer antenna can go up and down?

...this is my first request for help after using past posts for a couple of years now to get valuable help...

I have a 95 SC400 I bought 4 yrs ago at 98k and now it's up to 166k (the prinout from the dealer service record showed a 30k servive done at 94k, which I took at the time to mean "30k + 60k = 90k"). I have replaced the alternator, ps pump, tensioner pulley and top idler pulley over the last couple of years. 6 mths ago, I replaced the entire radiator due to a small leak in the core.

In the last couple of days I have developed a rather obnoxious "raspy" (grinding metal) rattle/squeal that seems to come from the area of the belt pulleys...it starts about 15 mins after starting (warm engine)...it changes pitch some with rpm change but occurs continually from then on...occurs with the a/c on or off...no overheating... I had a guy at the parts store and myself both try to "stethescope" which pulley was the culprit. He seemed to guess the water pump but didn't seem very confident...neither am I...I released the belt and turned the free wheeling pulleys with no noise...slight play however in the water pump...

I was encouraged to hear the water pump ran only $100 -150, that is until I read how painful (or expensive) the labor was and all the items relating to timing belt and seals on this site.

Since money is an issue:

1. Does anyone have any ideas that suggest something wrong other than the pump...?

2. Is only replacing the pump for now silly thinking?

Thanks for any help!