djones

Has anyone found anybody making exact fit struts for the GX? I've only been able to find the factory part and the cheapest for about $235 each. Since two should be replaced, this is pretty high cost without even considering labor. I really am not inclined to get a "universal" fit version. Thanks for any ideas.

QUOTE: "I get my kits for $95 with a one year warranty. I've installed them on about 17 or so cars this year with only one problem which was covered. I guess you can thank china for cheap reverse engineering." djspawn00, You failed to mention where you get the $95 kits ...

Where's the cheapest place to get true oem pads for the front?

Thanks for the diagnostic info; just what I was looking for there, Anyone had to deal with the exact same problem?

Hi, Can anyone tell me what these mean? I have a 95 sc400 w/ 134 system and a replacement compressor about 6 months old. Blows warm (when cold wanted) and cold (when warm wanted) ONLY at idle. Works fine at higher rpm. Does anyone have the proper hi and low pressure ranges for various temps? I believe I'm running above range on the lo pressure side and well below range on the Hi pressure side. The clutch is engaged.

...brake pads seem to be a subject no one wants to touch...

see the "AfterMarket Antenna" topic from 30 Aug... looks like good info... the wiring is key. I botched mine and now leave it permanently recessed.

...don't all these "outer" treatments assume that the inner seal has not been comprimised? I still had to open mine up because someone before me had seen fit to drill small holes at the bottom of the lens to release moisture (I assume). The vinyl bra makes sense to me. I have it across my entire front, except the lights. SK, How long have you run this way?

I have ordered these for front and rear from a local dealer. Since then I read on another forum (my other car is a Jag XJR, fun to drive but falls apart!) about these pads being hi-squeal and eating rotors. They are due to arrive any day now. I'm looking for no squeal, low dust, long wear and to be rotor friendly. I last put Axxis Metal masters on the back and got short life with a lot of dusting. On both forums everyone seems to have an opinion. I guess I'm asking for the latest. I'll be using "plain" Brembo rotors...

Good to hear. I'm making the switch then. Because a couple of months ago I changed out my pads & rotors all the way around plus did a brake fluid flush and the brake pedal was just as mushy as always - even after the new pads got seated to the rotors. So I'm looking forward to trying the braided brake lines (along with another flush) Thanks. I'd like to know where you got them and how much... also the fit... Thanks ahead of time.

You definitely also want to see if the little orange (I think, or is it red?) plastic clip is broken that connects the key lock mechanism to the rod that comes up from the door opening mechanism. If so, you may be able to replace it without removing any other pieces. I'm actually half way inside my door, as well, but for a different reason. The rod that pushes down to open the door from the outside has broken off inside the mechanism and thus doesn't always engage. I have replaced the plastic connecting clip to the door handle twice already. Makes me want to suggest your check the other clip as I mentioned, above. Someone said Lexus made it the weak link to reduce breakins. I have already picked up 2 new bolts from the dealer for the window guides because I have ruined the phillips head on the one at the bottom of the door. Lexus did not ever want these removed! I'm going to try this weekend to loosen the bottom bolt and work the entire door mechanism out from behind the window guide without removing the window. I'll let you know how it goes if you're interested. Djones 95 SC400 190k

Are you saying you bought the mast and cable only from Lexus? If not where? ...and how much? Djones 95 SC400 185 miles

...this is my first request for help after using past posts for a couple of years now to get valuable help... I have a 95 SC400 I bought 4 yrs ago at 98k and now it's up to 166k (the prinout from the dealer service record showed a 30k servive done at 94k, which I took at the time to mean "30k + 60k = 90k"). I have replaced the alternator, ps pump, tensioner pulley and top idler pulley over the last couple of years. 6 mths ago, I replaced the entire radiator due to a small leak in the core. In the last couple of days I have developed a rather obnoxious "raspy" (grinding metal) rattle/squeal that seems to come from the area of the belt pulleys...it starts about 15 mins after starting (warm engine)...it changes pitch some with rpm change but occurs continually from then on...occurs with the a/c on or off...no overheating... I had a guy at the parts store and myself both try to "stethescope" which pulley was the culprit. He seemed to guess the water pump but didn't seem very confident...neither am I...I released the belt and turned the free wheeling pulleys with no noise...slight play however in the water pump... I was encouraged to hear the water pump ran only $100 -150, that is until I read how painful (or expensive) the labor was and all the items relating to timing belt and seals on this site. Since money is an issue: 1. Does anyone have any ideas that suggest something wrong other than the pump...? 2. Is only replacing the pump for now silly thinking? Thanks for any help!