j3ffr3y

Knew there was something I forgot to mention. I did the check as it was in the manual by bridging the +B and FP circuit on the diagnostic box. I could hear the fuel pump and the injectors. From what I understood, there was no reason to suspect the fuel pump. Was I wrong in assuming this?

Will certainly change the plugs. Thanks DC! I was actually planning on doing that but I can't seem to find anyone that carries Denso around here. I found the NGK and Autolite but that was it other than the ones I have now.

I checked the TPS but it is giving some really weird readings so I've decided to replace it anyway. I found one that is tested and warranteed on ebay for $30 so that should be here at least by Tuesday.

Should I check anything else in the meantime? My friend did some kind of check while I was gone and he keeps telling me that I'm getting fuel but it's not enough to keep it running. Could the TPS be causing that or should I be looking elsewhere for the problem?

Update:

Just finish the compression check. The specs show they are supposed to be between 142 minimum and 178 max. I've got 165 to 178. Soooo it's not the compression.

Just out of curiosity, I checked the plugs again so that I knew the plugs and wires were okay at least. Each one of them fired but a couple of them were kind of an orange-ish color and not white/blue like I've heard they are supposed to be. They are Bosch platinum plugs. The manual says that this vehicle runs best on platinum tipped plugs. So my question is, is there something wrong with them or could it be the distributor cap?

I'm going out now to check the TPS with the ohmmeter. My friend has shown me how to use it and I can at least try to get the readings now.

Anyone who has any other input is very welcome to comment. I would really appreciate any insight I can get.

Thanks!

Thank you for that reply.

I've just re-checked the timing, just to make sure and for peace of mind I suppose.

I have not checked compression as of yet. My friend has a compression gauge but he keeps telling me that it doesn't "act" like it's a compression issue. However, I think I'm going to do that next anyway. Again, just to make sure and for peace of mind.

As for the cold start, I took it out and cleaned it thoroughly and as much as it could possibly be cleaned, then put it back in. I didn't think that would fix the issue of it running when I give it gas but another "just to make sure".

The TPS specs that you have are the same as what I have seen in the manuals that I have but I have no idea what I'm doing with the ohmmeter. I guess I will have to start learning how to use one or at least the one that he has in his garage.

I will post again after I've done the compression check. Hopefully that isn't the issue because I really don't want to have to take the head back off again. LOL

Thanks again.

I've went through everything I can think of to try and figure this out but I'm completely stumped.

I have a 1993 ES300 V6. I'm getting tired of working on this thing so I really need help figuring this out. I do NOT have enough money to pay a garage to find and fix it for me so I'm doing this all myself.

I would appreciate any input so I can make a list of things to check. I would also appreciate it if I could get a "How to" on whatever it is I'm checking.

Here's my issue:

It is very hard to start at first but after at least 10-20 tries, it finally does and it will idle. As soon as I try to give it any amount of gas (ie... pressing the pedal even slightly) it dies.

Here's what I've done so far.

Changed head gaskets

Timing belt

Water pump

MAF

EFI (SFI main relay).

I have done the test for the fuel system by connecting terminals +B and FP of the data link connector 1.

Cleaned everything I can think to clean in and around the throttle body and replaced everyt gasket there was on it.

Checked the hoses and they all look good and/or if they didn't, then they were replaced.

A year ago I had the fuel filter and injectors changed so I'm guessing those are still good.

The spark plugs are fairly new.

I had a problem about a year or so ago with the ECU so I had a rebuilt one put in.

I checked each spark plug and wires for spark.

Checked for fuel again by taking the hose loose from the cold start.

I can only think at this point that it has to be one of these things but I'm not sure how to check them.

The distributor cap looks okay but it has a tiny chip on one side next to one of the screws.

The TPS, not a clue what I'm looking for to check on it to see if it's working.

The fuel pressure regulator.

The opening circuit relay.

Or the ECU has gone bad again.

I'm sure I probably left out a few things somewhere. I just REALLY need help figuring this out. I'm getting ready to move and it needs to be fixed SOON!

Thanks everyone. Got a new gasket just in case.

Hey guys, I have a 93 ES300 3V. I just replaced the head gaskets, along with some others. After installing all of it, I realized that no.5 cylinder had no compression. Long story short, it was a stuck valve, which I fixed. I had to take the head back off again but have still not started the car. I was wondering that since I haven't cranked/started the car, can I use the same head gasket that is still new?

Okay I'm not getting any emails telling me I have a response and yes I did the whole "email me when" thing. LOL

Anywho, I took all of the stuff back off....again...so I could see at least under the valve cover and I found out that the valves are stuck down only on that one side. I've been trying to figure out a way to get them to pop back up and lube the crap outta them but it seems I'm just going to have to take the head back off again. My friend, who thinks he knows what he's doing, started banging on the side of the head with a hammer and then he took a piece of wood and banged on top of the valves to try to get them to move. Yea I didn't find out until afterwards and no need to say what my response to him was cuz it's

Well, now I'm going to have to take the head off to make sure there isn't any major damage and to clean out the little tiny chunks of wood from it. Oh well I need to take the darn thing off to get to the valves anyway I guess. Unless someone knows of a way I can get them unstuck without having to remove it?

No compression = Rings and/or valves, Or there is a hole in the piston

Thanks fish, I already had that diagram but I will email you that beer anyway.

I just found out too that my no. 5 cylinder has no compression if you or anyone else can tell me what to look for to figure out why? I'll email you a 6 pack if you can help with that one. Oh and, if the timing is off, will that cause it not to have compression in one cylinder? I read a few things in searching and that's the only thing that has come up so far.

I posted this once on here and then on a few other sites as well but never got a single response. I don't think anyone knows the answer to this problem. Do I need to just junk my car or what? :cries: I read my other post again and realized it sounded a bit confusing in itself so here I am trying this again. I searched all of the post and really came up with no answer on what to do about this. I have the 3vzfe engine on a 93 Lexus ES300 V6 and it had a blown head gasket which was really bad. I replaced the gasket both head gaskets, along with quite a few others, the water pump, radiator, etc... I did not get a new timing belt because the one that's on it looks almost brand new but it had none of the marks on it. I did mark the TB with the marks on the pulleys and TB cover but that's the only place I marked it. I'm now getting everything together and am at the point where I have the crankshaft on "0" mark, LH (front) on "single dots" and RH (rear) camshaft on "double dots" just like the repair manual said to do. The distributor is not on no.1 yet but it would be if or when the camshaft is turned. NOW here's the confusion..., I can get the LH (front) camshaft and pulley all lined up but to get the timing marks on the RH (rear) pulley to align, the cams have to be turned quite a bit (180 degrees) to get the timing marks aligned with the timing belt cover. (The manual doesn't specify whether it needs to be turned clockwise or not either.) When this happens, the double marks on the cams are not aligned anymore but the distributor is now pointing at the no.1. Is this normal? I figured if they are still in sync, which they are, then it's ok to turn the cams to get the timing marks on the pulley and back cover aligned. The manuals are extremely poor at explaining any of this and I wanted to make sure before I finish putting it together. Am I supposed to turn the rear camshaft, even after the "double dots" are aligned, which will throw off the camshaft marks, just to get the pulley to line up and then put the belt back on? I'm really confused here.

One other question, I know TDC on no.1 is supposed to be on compression and not exhaust. If the crankshaft is on "0", how can I tell if it's on compression or exhaust side? I would really need my car back like yesterday and would really appreciate all the help I can get. This is my only car and I don't have the money to have someone else do this for me. :( Thanks in advance

Have you figured this out? I'm about a week away from being where you are in this post and if you know anything please post.

Thanks,

DJSG3

Sorry I still haven't gotten anything from anyone on 4 different sites yet and no one seems to know the answer to this either.

I searched all of the post and really came up with no answer on what to do about this. I have the 3vzfe engine on a 93 Lexus ES300 V6 and it had a blown head gasket which was really bad. I replaced the gasket both head gaskets, along with quite a few others, the water pump, radiator, etc... I did not get a new timing belt because the one that's on it looks almost brand new but it had none of the marks on it. I did mark the TB with the marks on the pulleys and TB cover but that's the only place I marked it. I'm now getting everything together and am at the point where I have the crankshaft on "0" mark, RH (front) on "single dots" and LH (rear) camshaft on "double dots", along with the distributor on the no.1 just as the manual said to do. NOW here's the confusion..., I can get the RH camshaft and pulley all lined up but to get the timing marks on the LH pulley to align, the cams have to be turned quite a bit to get the timing marks aligned with the timing belt cover. When this happens, the double marks on the cams are not aligned anymore and the distributor is no longer pointing at the no.1. Is this normal? I figured if they are still in sync, which they are, then it's ok to turn the cams to get the timing marks on the pulley and back cover aligned. The manuals are extremely poor at explaining any of this and I wanted to make sure before I finish putting it together. Am I supposed to turn the rear camshaft, even after the "double dots" are aligned, which will throw off the camshaft marks, just to get the pulley to line up and then put the belt back on? I'm really confused here. I would really need my car back like yesterday and would really appreciate all the help I can get. This is my only car and I don't have the money to have someone else do this for me. :( Thanks in advance

I'm having the same problem with mine. 93 es300. After setting the front cams to the aligning "single dots" and then setting the rear to the double dots, the belt pulley is off but my manual doesn't tell to turn the crankshaft, camshaft or anything else to get the pulley lined up with the timing mark on the #3 belt cover. I'm lost and not sure what to do from here. Did you ever find out whether to set everything to TDC, including the distributor and then turn the rear camshaft until it is lined up with the marking on the cover? Also, am I supposed to put the belt back on before I turn the rear cam? I'm sooo lost on this.

I have a 1993 ES300. Did you ever figure out what was wrong? Mine is doing the exact same thing. I can't hear the compressor come on, no cold air and I live in VERY warm area where I need the A/C. :(

My car has been doing the same thing. 93 ES300. I have changed everything including the head gaskets. Will the ECM really fix this problem? I am ready to get rid of it. But if this will fix it i will try it. Thanks

I have 93 Lexus ES300, too. I have similar problems: white smoke, gas-smell, high RPM in low gear, really bad gas consumption. I am also wondering if changing ECM can fix these. Thanks.

It certainly fixed all of the problems I was having. I litterally had raw gasoline coming from my tailpipe, terrible gas cosumption (obviously), white smoke, etc... After I had the garage put the new ECM in, all of those problems are gone! I suppose I could have gotten a cheaper ECM elsewhere and replaced it myself but I really had no idea what I was doing BUT after seeing what was done and now knowing the "how to", I could definitely do it myself. I would try ebay or elsewhere for a rebuilt ECM if I were you. It would also be a good idea (in my opinion) to just DIY. Much less expensive and come to find out, it's probably not all that hard if you have a repair manual.

Update....

After about a week with the mechanic, $199 for the computer (ECM), and $285 labor & for other "minor" things that I wanted done personally, the car is finished and running GREAT!!! Thanks to everyone for all your help!

Now I know if anything like this happens again to this car or any of my other ones, I will know what to do.

Thanks again!

Jeffrey

I've been having a few problems. Couldn't figure out how to link to my other topic but I really need to know the answer to this before I let the mechanic do anything else.

So I called the mechanic yesterday afternoon, he tells me that it's the powertrain control module, and that the only place he's been able to locate it is at the dealership for $1300. Is'nt that the same thing as the ECU or ECM that's located behind the glove box?

He said he's trying to get a cheaper one somewhere else.

If that's true and if I get a rebuilt one myself, will it need to be re-programmed for my car?

I was told that it should already be reprogrammed if it's been rebuilt? I found one at a place out of state that's rebuilt and supposedly already been reprogrammed. Why would that not work and why could I not put it in myself?

Okay I called the mechanic this afternoon, he tells me that it's the powertrain control module, and that the only place he's been able to locate it is at the dealership for $1300. Is'nt that the same thing as the ECU or ECM that's located behind the glove box?

If that's true and if I get a rebuilt one, will it need to be re-programmed for my car?

I was told that it should already be reprogrammed if it's been rebuilt? I found one on ebay that says it's rebuilt and already been reprogrammed. Why would that not work?

The mechanic told me this afternoon that number 4 & 6 injectors were being held open. He thinks either the computer (ECM) is causing it or a short somewhere in the wiring. I'm curious though, would that cause it to smoke that bad and the other symptoms I've been having?

They are going to have someone look at it thoroughly tomorrow to try and track down exactly what is causing the injectors to stay open.

Update...

First I want to thank you guys for the advice and help.

I have a friend who is a mechanic. He won't charge me for the labor and all I have to pay for is the parts. The only thing is, he has the tools to fix whatever is wrong with it but he doesn't have the equipment to test the car to find out what is wrong with it. So, labor charge being out of the way...

I have a week until he gets back from vacation to take it to a shop to find out what is going on. I caught him just as he was leaving so I didn't get a chance to ask him what I needed to have them check.

I have a place just around the corner to take it to now so I don't have to drive all that far to get it checked out.

I'm assuming they will put the "sniffer" thing on the exhaust right? Does anyone know what else I need to make sure is done?

1993 Lexus ES300 V6 Automatic 260k miles...I know thats alot but I still want it fixed!

I've been reading forums, reading the repair manuals and topics for a couple of weeks now to try to figure things out on my own and to learn as much as I can. Needless to say, this thing is driving me crazy because I don't really have a lot of money to spend and the conflicting I'm getting. I do know some basics about car repair and such but this I'm just not sure because of all of the conflicting information I'm getting and now I'm just getting confused more than anything. I'll try to put as much info as I can think of and hopefully it will help if anyone can give me a straight answer on what is to do. I don't know anything about the previous owner(s) or how it was taken care of before.

Please keep in mind, I don't have a whole lot of money, I don't want to junk it, and that I just want it fixed without taking it to a repair shop or dealer.

Here's what's going on with it.

1. It sucks down gas REALLY bad...sorry that's the only way I can put it
   
2. It's blowing white smoke from the tailpipe (sometimes it looks a little greyish but mostly white) when I say "blowing", I mean it's litterally ROLLING out REALLLLLYYYY thick
   
3. It blows raw fuel from the tailpipe
   
4. It sputters some but otherwise runs really good
   
5. It doesn't overheat that I've noticed
   
6. I haven't noticed water in the oil or vice versa, BUT there is a smell of fuel on the dipstick
   
7. the CEL was on BUT...long story=short version...battery disconnected & now I can't get the codes
   
8. not sure if it's using a lot of oil or coolant because I haven't been running it alot (actually I'm a bit afraid to because of the fuel leaking & a few people have mentioned it's like a time bomb waiting to explode)...ummm YIKES?!?!
   

Here is a list of what I've done with it so far

1. new injectors
   
2. new spark plugs
   
3. new VSV's
   
4. new fuel pressure regulator
   
5. new PCV valve
   
6. cleaned EGR
   
7. cleaned IACV
   
8. cleaned throttle body
   
9. replaced a few old vac hoses
   
10. distributor & rotor still good
    
11. changed oil & filter
    
12. flushed radiator & replaced coolant
    

Been thinking it has to be the head gaskets & rings causing the smoke and raw fuel but have been told it couldnt be that. I've also been thinking that the guy that told me that is an idiot too though. :chairshot: LOL

I'd really appreciate any real advice and/or help....

THANK YOU SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO MUCH!!!!!!!!!! Man that helped alot!!!!!!!!!

If you want or have time, you can email me j3ffr3y04@yahoo.com

Did you ever figure out what the problem was with the gas smell and such? I have the "exact" same car and the "exact" same problem. I've been searching for weeks to try and figure out what the problem is with no luck. I don't have the money to take it to a dealer and I'm going CRAZY trying to figure it out on my own.

I also have another small problem now too. I let a friend look over the car and he unplugged a few vacuum hoses and forgot how to put them back the way they were. I've tried everything I could think of to figure out which one goes where. I've even posted here and other forums, looking for a picture of the Emission Control Set (the VSV's on top of the engine) and I can't seem to find one anywhere. Even asked around to see if someone would take a picture of theirs and still...nothing. :( BUT all of that was after the gas smell, etc...

Like an idiot, I had a friend look at my car when it was sputtering because he "supposedly" knew what may be wrong with it and he disconnected the entire Emission Control Valve Set along with the hoses. He had no idea how to put it back on and now I'm not sure if it's on correctly. Does anyone have a diagram for this specific vehicle? I've tried the diagram in the Haynes manual but it looks so much different from what's in my car that it's hard to tell what goes where. It would be even MORE helpful if someone could just take a picture of the top of the engine where the VSV's are so I can just see that. I would REALLY appreciate it. I can't seem to find a really good diagram online that shows what I'm looking for.

Thanks,

Jeffrey