azankich

100% sure that I changed the correct sensor. Bank 1 Sensor 1 is located on the backside of the engine near the firewall, accessible from underneath the vehicle with a lot of twisting of the arm and contortion of the body. It was replaced with a brand new genuine Lexus/Toyota Denso sensor with the exact same part number imprinted on it which reads TOYOTA 89467-48011 DENSO 0200. HINT: for people reading this post in the future, the most difficult part of changing this A/F sensor out is disconnecting the plug connection, which is actually accessible from the top of the engine with one hand, and from under the vehicle reaching up with another hand - yes it takes two people. There is a small slot on the female end of the plug near where the four wires go into the plug (the female side of the plug is not the end attached to the A/F sensor). Slide a very small flathead screwdriver into that slot which will release the male end of the plug while being pulled by your buddy reaching up from under the car. Because this plug connection is really hard to get to and takes two people, practice disconnecting the plug on the A/F sensor that comes off of the front side of the engine and is easily accessible. The plug connection for the front A/F sensor is grey and is on the drivers side between the air filter and the engine block. The front A/F is called Bank 2 Sensor 1.

Thanks for the reply and tips. There are no disconnected hoses off of the aircleaner and I've super cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAS) with alcohol & Q-Tips with no luck, nor is it throwing a code related to that. The fuel cap seems to be sealing properly, but how do you ever know? I might replace it just to make sure because that is a good thought. The engine compartment is shockingly clean (I'd seriously eat dinner off of the top of it, or any parts within) which leads me to believe that there has never been any corrosion or abuse which I suppose could affect other wires. Anyone...anyone? The coincidence of the timing belt change leads me to lean towards that, but as I mentioned I can't fathom another couple thousand dollars to deal with this issue.

I just had my timing belt replaced at the recommendation of the Lexus dealer at a Lexus dealer for scheduled maintenance (91,000 miles). Within 3 days the Check Engine light and VSC light came on. I took it to an autopart store who read a p1135 code "A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)", to which I replaced today by myself with a brand new Toyota one (part number 89467 by Denso) A/F sensor. 30 seconds after clearning the codes (both through an ODBC2 computer and disconnecting the battery for several hours), the lights came back on and it re-read error code p1135. Could the dealer and mis-timed my engine resulting resulting in a bad air fuel mixture that might cause this code? Any thoughts on if this is related? Honestly after spending an $$$ arm $$$$ and $$$ a $$$ leg $$$ replacing the timing belt, all other belts, and the waterpump I'm honestly scared to go back to the dealer and face a several thousand dollar repair. Thank you.

I'm hoping someone can help me out. Long complicated story, but I'm trying to repossess my 2002 LS430 Ultra-Lux from my ex- because the payments to me as agreed upon have stopped coming. In my possession I have one of the two original keys (the ex- has the other original key) and I also have the credit card sized emergency key that came with the car in the owner manual packet. I've tried both keys and the car will turn over but won't start. I know the car runs because I just saw my ex driving it yesterday. The "regular" key transponder has a new battery and unlocks the car and steering column no problem, but when you try to start the car it just turns over and over and over without ever starting. Same thing when I use the emergency key following the instructions exactly (i.e. inserting the metal key and holding the card to the ignition in the direction of the arrow). In all cases everything seems fine by all appearances and even sounds fine as the engine turns over but it will not start. It acts as if it is out of gas but it shows a nearly full tank. The dash board screen shows the typical 'system check' message and clears itself indicating there isn't an issue. The little red security LED to the left of the steering column stops flashing as expected. Any ideas? Could these keys have been deactivated accidentally or intentionally? Could there be some sort of other factory ignition override? Again they are the original keys - but they haven't been used on the car in about 9 months. I'm hoping to avoid towing costs to a Lexus dealer and the inevitable outrageous bill if this is something easy to figure out. Thank you very much!