slstsang

just got a rebuilt one for 65 bucks. that's the cheapest way to go. installation is easy with hand tools. make sure you have a pan for all the oil. also after you install the hose, make sure you suspend the car and turn the wheels left to right a hundred times for all the air to leak out before you put the cap back on.

i will be importing my 92 SC300 to Canada, Since it is mandatory for all cars to have daytime running lights, can i do this myself? anyone done it before? I know you can just turn on the headlights, but the canadians are stricter than that, so please spare me the jokes!

From the pics, they looked real good, fit tight like a glove ebay

Any other alternatives? affordable and looks nice and seat right?

hey what up everyone, i bought a 93 es 300. love the car, needs a few things fixed. lights behind mph are out, and the led lights for mph and rpm out. how can i fix it? also suspension is a rough ride and wierd noises turning and hitn bumps, help me out. thanks

if you're handy, you can get the bulbs from advance auto parts, take the cluster out and replace the bulbs yourself.

sounds like you need a new set of struts for your ride. possibly cv joint / shaft.

thanks for all the responses =)

but for us non-handy guys who just bring our cars to the shop... where can i find the regulator for cheap?

try ebay

hello everyone!

i have owned a 96 es300 for about 6 years now, and about a month ago, my passenger window stopped going up strangely, the window will go down... i had the window rolled down a little bit before it decided to stop working so there is a small openining there forever, lol. i have already called the mechanic and they want to charge $600 for parts and labor! i think this is a ridiculous amount of money for something that seems like a small electrical problem. does anyone know what the problem might be, and if it there is an easy way to fix it?

thanks!!

when you press the button, does the motor work and respond with some sound? if so then you'll need to replace the window regulator. if not you'll need to replace both the window motor and regulator. it is easy do it yourself work. i did a lot of these in college, i had a nissan maxima, they were known for window regulators failing. the plastic part broke and the whole thing fail, the new ones have better designs now.

there is no sound so that means i have to replace both motor and regulator? i am thinking it might be a wiring problem since the window still goes down.

How do you know if the window still goes down? do you push your window up and then push the button down?

I have the cluster out, want to fix it if I can.

I count 24 bulbs in the thing. Should I replace them all while I'm in there? Are they all the same bulb? Is there any significance to the colors of the bulb holders -- black, blue, gray, green?

My odometer is dark, completely off. Can I get a replacement for just that part? From the dealer? Will I have to have it programmed at the dealer? (I don't really care about the mileage reading, it's the trip and distance parts I want.) Is there any common problem with the circuit board that is causing the odomenter to not work that I can repair?

Other than the dead needles, is there anything else I should fix while I'm in there?

Actually I do have one needle question. Should I use a clamp (surgical) to hold the needle posts so I know exactly where to reinstall the needles, or do they stay still after the needles are removed so all I will need is a picture?

Thanks in advance,

JM

I just recently replaced some bulbs in my cluster, i only replaced the rmp and speed lights, my other lights were fine. they were all the same voltage. there is no significance in the bulb holders color.

i think the dealership will charge you for the whole cluster, they won't sell you just the odometer part. your best bet is get one from a junkyard.

the needles are too expensive to replace, the cheapest fix is paint it with glow in the dark / florencent paint. then get those small LED lights that plug in your dash to light the cluster area.

use the search function and look for remove needle instruction.

thanks guys for the help, i changed the radiator and now it runs fine.

I'm curious about this. Was the radiator, as Toysrme suggested, heavy and encrusted? Did you flush the radiator with water when you drained it? Did you flush it with a radiator flush chemical? Did you replace the hoses when you changed the waterpump?

I'm just curious about the symptoms that lead you the the radiator as the culprit, and what you tried before you got to the replacement option.

Thanks,

JM

My radiator was not heavy, near the upper hose opening had some "gel" like stuff, whitish / red. i did flush the radiator with my garden hose for a long time. water flow out fine. i didnot use a flush chemical. I did replace the hose when i changed the waterpump, i also changed the thermostat.

The only "sign" of clogging is, after i run the car for a while, i place my hand near the fan, and it was blowing cool, normally, it should be hot. and there are parts that are cool and some are hot, that means the cool area was clogged. hope this helps.

thanks guys for the help, i changed the radiator and now it runs fine.

one tip is remember to get a lexus radiator cap . especially if you're using aftermarket radiator for 92 es300. you'll have 2 radiator cap running in the same system. i know. it's weird.

hello everyone!

i have owned a 96 es300 for about 6 years now, and about a month ago, my passenger window stopped going up strangely, the window will go down... i had the window rolled down a little bit before it decided to stop working so there is a small openining there forever, lol. i have already called the mechanic and they want to charge $600 for parts and labor! i think this is a ridiculous amount of money for something that seems like a small electrical problem. does anyone know what the problem might be, and if it there is an easy way to fix it?

thanks!!

when you press the button, does the motor work and respond with some sound? if so then you'll need to replace the window regulator. if not you'll need to replace both the window motor and regulator. it is easy do it yourself work. i did a lot of these in college, i had a nissan maxima, they were known for window regulators failing. the plastic part broke and the whole thing fail, the new ones have better designs now.

I'm confused....

My '93 ES300 has 2 caps (one on rad, one on engine). I had a '92 before this, it had 2 caps as well.

If yours is a '92, it should have a cap on the new radiator as far as I know. Later models only have 1 cap on the engine, none on the rad.

You should be good to go with the rad you bought if it has a cap on it.

Am I right?

tck...

ps - the cap on the rad and the one on the engine are NOT the same - different parts, if you're going to replace them you need to get the correct ones, don't just buy 2 that are alike... (I did this & had to take one back..)

- you don't need to do anything with any A/C parts to replace the rad - the cooling and A/C systems are totally separate. Just undo all the hoses and bolts on the rad and lift it out - don't disturb any of the A/C components.

OK, i got the right radiator, now the radiator clamps are too long, so how should i fasten the radiator on the car? buy new clamps? suggestion anyone?

I got a radiator from advance auto parts this morning, it has a radiator cap on top.

My question is, since our OEM radiator does not have a cap on top, the cap is near the engine block. Can i still use this radiator? (meaning running 2 caps?)

If not where can i get one for a cheap price? any recommendation?

You may have put too much sealent on the water pump causing a blockage.

BTW what year is your ES 92-93 ?

92

So i just ordered a new radiator. It has the option on ordering one with or without air conditioning.

the advance auto parts guy said the difference is the size. there's no extra add on on the radiator on it. is that true?

my next question is, there isa dryer near the radiator, do i need to vaccum the coolant out before i remove the old radiator? I checked the haynes manuel and it doesn't say anything about evacuating the coolant before instalation of a new radiator. has anyone install their own radiator before? i've got a 92 es300

Clogged, or the thermostat isn't opening often enough.

that is so weird, everything was fine a few days ago when i drive around, after i changed the waterpump and thermostat and now it cloggs all of a sudden? is that normal? or am i doing something wrong? none of the radiator is warm at all. so is the official diagnosis a clogged radiator? everyone agree?

OK, I got you now.

Fill the radiator to the brim cold & fill the block via the itnake manifold pressure cap.

Warm it up, let it cool back down & repeate.

I did what you said, the fan is now cool, blowing cool. but the radiator hose are hot, nothing leaked, i ran the car for 15 mins. but the temperature is reaching H high. does that mean that i have a clogged system? like clogged radiator? since the fan is blowing cool after 15mins? the fins are cool to the touch as well.

WRong forum for an SC.

Ofcorse it's bubbling over. You've uncapped a pressurized system. The boil temperature has probably dropped 40*f the second you uncapped it.

Add coolant cold, not hot.

I have an ES 300 AND a SC300, I 'm working on the ES300.

This is what i did.

1. car is cold

2. open radiator cap

3. pour in coolant

4. start the car

5. wait for air bubbles to escape through cap

6.i felt the radiator and the air became hot meaning collant moved

7. 15 mins later, it starts boiling.

Is this wrong? the way i'm doing it? what is the proper way of doing it?

i changed the timing and water pump and thermostat this weekend, everything was fine, until i put everthing back together, i open the radiator cap and put coolant in while the car was running, the coolant keeps boiling over and bubling everywhere. what is going on? please help!

its a 97 es300 , My right front end is making noises when i go over bumps and turn, how do i know ifits my struts and strut mounts? The mechanic who looked at , didnt even test drive it, but said it was my struts!?

stand in front of the struts, use both of your hands press it down real fast and real hard, if it sinks in real fast and doesn't bounce right back, yup, it's the struts

Last time ..... WHY DO YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE COVER!

er..... bad leather my guess? found one real cheap may be?

is KYB top of the line?? what about the cheap monroe? what kind of strut mounts should i order???

KYB is stock, tokico is stiff, monore is like a caddy = boat

I didnot order strut mounts for my new struts, my car is a 92 and it is still fine. however, you much change the strut bumper and bellow. what year es300 do you have?

Where is the best place online or store to get front struts and strut mounts, and motor mounts for a good price?! Any ideas is appreciated?

rockauto.com for most parts

partsamerica.com

i bought my tokico from morepowerracing.com

all 1993 cars have r134a, the ones that you can get from walmart. R12s are illegal and you can't buy them except for mechanic shops.

Incorrect. The Camry platform did not convert to R134a until the mid generation update for 1995. R12 was used through the end of the 94 production run.

I would buy freeze 12 before converting to 134a. R12 isn't illegal. It simply requires a liscence to buy.

You're right, the conversion from r-12 to r134a 's dead line was 1995. however, r-12 is one of those "illegal" items that you cannot bring back from Canada.

28 years old, bought my 92 es300 2 years ago, bought my 92 sc300 last year, also have a toyota matrix last xmas. toyota for life :)

i bought a 92 2 years ago

things that i have replace since:

R12-R134a conversion

Air intake tube

Radiator hose

dog bone

lower engine mount

valve cover gasket

dash bulbs

currently doing timing belt, water pump, 4 struts

i will do the oil pan and transmission gasket soon.