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Elrukin

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  • Lexus Model
    g35

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  1. "Said the blind man as he bent down to pick up his video controls" A universe could be created out of what you've yet to see.
  2. Heres a customer review link you can check their feedback on ebay too. http://www.ibc34.com/CONSUMERREVIEW.html I am pretty sure it does not fix everything. It says it does not make repairs just removes oxidation.
  3. Me too - You may have very well been restoring glass for years. I am not talking about glass. there is a difference and its good information to know just what method works best for which problem. Not every one needs to have their lens resurfaced. Sandpaper is necessary in extreme cases where there is surface damage. Sandpaper is not the best solution for oxidation wet or dry. What would your suggestion be to remove oxidation on a lens has no surface damage?
  4. Sorry man but it is typical crap online. Go one some major detailing forums and do some reading. It is junk. The write it they post is a total joke. Step into the 21 century. I use the product so I know it works. your comments only stand to show how little you understand about chemistry. As far as the other forums, they are all dominated by cavemen like your self who keep encouraging people to use outdated wax. What kind of credibility do you think you have when you speak on a product you have never tried? none, just sour grapes. Maybe you need a major detailing forum to tell you how to think, but I do just fine on my own. You must really be scared of VaporWax to have never tried it but discussed in major detail forums, that only happens when a product is so good it worries the competition. You're right to be worried because cavemen are a dieing breed. Try to stop progress and you will be run over by it. keep holding on to the past and you will be forgotten with it. Wax on cavemen.
  5. You might think WAX is outdated but it is not. Some people like the look of it and some like the look of poly etc. So far from reading online, the product sucks the big one. I like the do not do anything for 24 hours, or the "replaces lost electrons in the paint"..Talk about junk product! Said the caveman when he first saw fire,
  6. Wax is outdated and a lot of work, If I'm going to rub on anything that long, I want it to rub me back. There are too many new synthetic conditioners on the market that apply easier, protect better and last longer. These products may be described as wax or polish but that is inaccurate, they contain neither abrasive elements found in polish or plant based wax. I prefer VaporWax above all
  7. Yes it is. I see the suggestions of others promoting the use of sandpaper and abrasive polish. They are very temporary fixes and will cause your lens to end up in worse condition after a few month and in some cases mere weeks. I have seen the results of enough ill fated attempts to scrub, scrape, sand buff, or polish headlights. Plastic scratch remover will damage the UV layer of your lens and the lens itself, leaving the lens exposed to the yellowing effects of sunlight and re-oxidation. Oxidation is a natural occurance and there is no one time fix. It will return in time and have to be removed again. Lens that were once crystal clear become clouded with scratches and buff marks from the cleaning process. If your lens has not been exposed to abrasive cleaning techniques, you can restore them to like new in a few seconds with Pittman's Pure liquid acrylic lens restorer. It is a non abrasive oxidation remover that requires no tools or buffing and it removes oxidation on contact. Opaque plastic surfaces will not show scratches and cloud over like a clear lens will. Only a pure liquid acrylic lens restorer designed specifically for headlights (ALR) will safely restore your lens without damageing it. Think about the cost of replacement before you put any type of abrasive cream, polish, rubbing compound on a clear plastic projector lens. I can guarantee that once you start sanding on your lens it will never be the same. A pure liquid deoxidizer is the best way to go.
  8. Before and after Examples of liquid deoxidizer effects on oxidized headlight lens. liquid deoxidizer
  9. Any method that involves sandpaper or any type of abrasive polish will damage the UV layer on your headlights. They may look good for a minute but rest assured they will re oxidize and yellow within weeks to months. You will have to repeat the job. Only now you've got scratches on the lens from the last cleaning. What works on plastic and paint does not work equally as well on thermoplastic based headlight lens. The main difference in that a lens is designed to project light not reflect it. Those time consuming multiple step solutions are ok for a mechanic in a body shop getting paid by the hour. They are usually the ones that get people to ruin their headlight lens with out dated information. Unless you have severe damage to your lens it only takes a few seconds to bring them back to clear. Pittman's Original One Step ALR is designed to remove oxidation from all thermoplastic based lens on contact. It is a molecular reactive formula that attacks and removes oxidation only. There is nothing on the market that works faster and as the namd implies, it is a one step process. Anybody can restore their lens in seconds. No tools buffing goggles or gloves needed. Before and After Pittman's ALR
  10. I have found that sandpaper is necessary in some cases but it can cause problem in others. If your lens is scratched, pitted chipped peeling or has some obvious surface imperfection, sanding or replacement are your only options. Depending on where you live and the invironment you drive in would have a bearing on the condition of your headlight lens. The vast majority of headlights are not damaged in that way. Normally oxidation is the problem most of us face with thermoplastic based headlight lens. They will become opaque and can change color from white to yellow to brown. You can sand this oxidation off but sandpaper will cut through oxidation, UV, layer and lens surface. It cannot tell the difference between them. You will damage the factory UV protective coating. Once you remove that, your exposed pourus lens will quickly turn yellow and you will never get them clear again. Best way to go is to use a liquid deoxldizer that will only effect the oxidation. Your UV layer will be left intact and your headlights won't sustain the type of damage abarasive compounds and sandpaper can cause. My car is 4 years old, My lens were not damaged, they were pretty smooth, however the lens had a solid coat of oxidation over them, I used Pittman's Original One Step ALR on mine, I bought it online. It cut the oxidation off the lens as I was putting it on. Took me less than 10 minutes to do the headlights taillight and marker lights. They look great. One thing to keep in mind is that oxidation returns. It does not go away forever. You will have to clean your lens again at some point in time. Once you start sanding you will have no other option but sanding or replacement when they turn yellow. Use a non abrasive acrylic lens deoxidizer.
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