zockslexus

Hello all!!

I have not been here in what feels like a few years. After all, there has been nothing wrong with my ES. I have 276,xxx on her and she finally popped a few codes.

PO330 - Knock sensor 2 circuit bank 2

and

PO171 - system to lean, bank 1

Can anyone tell me where to start to get this fixed? I would rather not get taken advantage of at a dealer or some shop...

Where is the knock sensor? Anyone have experience with these codes?

Lately, she hesitates HEAVILY when I accelerate now...would love to get it cleaned up and push her past 300,xxx miles!!

Thanks for all that you do.

nice...all I can say

too bad you are going to kill it...it's no clunker to me...

If you are just looking to get them clear again, with minimun effort / time. Use "Mothers Mag cleaner" Takes 5 mins and the lens are clear, I used it a year ago and it still looks decent (and the sun down here in TX is hard on these lens). Now I am sure sanding and clear coat will give much better results, but for a cheap, fast fix, this works well.

George,

I, however, appreciate your input...but quality, not quickness.

hey pete,

do it right the first time. it's cheap and lasts forever.

get 1500 grit sandpaper

get 400 grit sandpaper or similar

one can of clear coat (smallest you can find).

WET sand the lenses with the 400 grit. It will leave them looking milky and like you really messed up your lenses with the sandpaper...do this a few times. this gets off the yellow oxidation.

second, with the 1500 grit WET sand again until you have made it baby butt smooth..or if you are like me (ocd haha) you think you have sanded out every last imperfection. your lenses will still look milky and like you really messed them up. 1500 grit is for mirror finishes...so you know what this is for.

lastly, newspaper off around the lenses or take them out before starting this whole process. LIGHTLY dust with clear coat...3 coats will likely do it. LOOKS LIKE NEW!! B)

email me if you have questions...trust me, you will love your work and be proud.

I want to know guys about the coolant in my car! DO you put coolant in the radiator or the jug that runs from it? What is that Jug for? that says full and low what is it for ????

And another I know you check transmission fluid with the car running but how do you tell is its low low or full becuase it just says hot or cold

put coolant in your radiator WHEN THE CAR IS COMPLETELY COOL!! Never open it when it is remotely warm or hot as the expanding gasses can spray out and burn you making you one ugly MFER...haha. The tank is simply for overflow.

well, for your transmission...if its cold, the level should be at...COLD and viseversa.

Okay, I lied... I can confirm that the doors needed slamming harder WITH THE ENGINE ON :) because it sure as H*LL didn't work with the engine off! Thanks!

glad to see that it worked!! sweet!

ryan_h,

I don't think that you have any blown fuses or window motors that have gone bad, as they wouldn't both give up the ghost at the same time, unless hit with a power surge.

Guessing here, but do you have the window lockout switch on the driver's door pushed down? The only thing that might not fit with this idea is why the passenger front window went down but not the two rears as well.

You may have a lockup somehow in the remote's radio receiver that controls the alarm, immobilizer, door locks and windows. I would wonder if disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes would somehow reset it. Its worth a try. Keep us posted! Good Luck!

no responses bother me. if this guy ever checks back here...i would agree with dude above..plus start looking in your owners manual for odd things of this nature.

Why would you bother? These engines give terrific performance as the are, for what they are intended to do. If you wanted a performance machine, you should buy an ISF, or a GS, when you have the dough. You already have a 16 year old car. Put in the new engine and save your money from the port and polish for the proper maintenance a car of this vintage is sure to require over the next few years. Hopefully by the time you need to replace this car, you'll be further up the salary scale and be able to get closer to what you really want to be driving. Good Luck!

agreed...fast cars stock...just keep her running clean and with high octane.

The description is not very clear. Any electricity? can you restart? Any strange sound?

It could be battery, alternator, or broken timing belt.

not going to be a battery, or alternator. timing belt broken would result in the car not being able to be turned back on...pending your response, we will figure it out. battery...well a dead battery only reveals itself at startup...and alternator..would have an indicator on dash as well as dim lights for a day or so before it died. besides, if it was running and quit...then its not an alternator..those problems occur again when the owner attempts a restart similar to the battery prob.

give us more info and you will get a good lead here.

Bit the bullet and bought the Michelin Primacy tires. Added an alignment---what a difference they made. You can almost hear your heart beating now! When they changed the tires they scratched the rims a little--not enough to fuss at the guys (they have been good to me over the years). Anyone know where I can get some touch up paint?

my favorite part is how you would take a few scratches for the primacy tires...and then ask for touch up paint. In aviation, where I work and play, that kind of thinking would get someone killed...

I am not aware of any oil problems...specially lights. check your oil...the light usually means low oil.

I have the same issue with the "LOW". The blower runs, but the speed doesn't change on AUTO or MANUAL changing of the speed. It is always a low speed. I changed the blower resistor, but it was not the case.

Can I get this PDF also? My email is mmart33@gmail.com.

Or if anyone else knows what to do, please let me know.

Thanks!

MAN, WISH I COULD HAVE READ THIS ONE SOONER...THIS KIND OF ISSUE IS ALWAYS THE RESISTOR...YOU CAN USUALLY FIND IT IN THE DASH...TRY UNDER THE PASSENGER SIDE.

please clarify

Likely. Some symptoms include sluggish engine, bad fuel economy, and poor acceleration.

I have been trying to get a straight up answer to this question for a while. Is the knock sensors in my car a problem that I need to be wooried about? If they are bad shoul I replaced them in a hurry or is a big problem period?

Can someone please give me a straight answer? I can take it

Can anyone Help me?

If you elect to not replace the knock sensor a multitude of interlaced electrical and mechanical problems will result.

The most important is the motors ability to advance or !Removed! spark timing as you operate the car.

This in very important if you use low octane 87 fuel. The knock sensor retards the electrical advance program inside the ignition timing module when it senses spark knock inside the combustion chambers.

Eventually, worst case scenario are burned valves and severe piston and piston ring damage.

Without a timing light I couldn't say for sure but you may not have any ignition advance at all without the knock sensor. Fuel economy would drop directly in the toilet if this happens.

I'd strongly recommend replacing it for your continued life expectancy of the motor.

ok Thanks I will!Does the knock sensor slow your rpm down and make your car run slower?

okay i got you and I appreciate your help very much but when my check engine light comes on! I also get a leakage light come on at about the same time! Is this normal!!

Location of MAF showing by arrow.

Bt Pressing tab, disconnect the connector, and use 10MM to open MAF, also open air filter box to raise the MAF (otherwise other connector in the way to take out), use ONLY MAF Cleaner. spay cleaner inside, let it dry off and install back.

Hope that helps.

I will try 93 octane.

thanks for the help camlex!

One more thing, throw about 1/3 can of seafoam into your oil, seemed to help a bit for me as well. However, it is still "slightly" there. I hope I can knock it out with the MAF cleaning.

Zockslexus

I am currently having the same problem with my 98 ES300. The car has 67k on it. I noticed that I can only get the car to do the slight surging being in any gear, at any speed, as long as I am just giving the car 10-30% throttle and am between 1500-2500 rpm. I did have a o2 sensor and EGR code but they both went away on there own, yet the car is still doing the surging. Hope you guys can solve the problem because I think we are all in the same boat. I am going to try to clean the maf and the EGR.

J. R.

ok, keep us posted. try higher octane gas as well...see if it goes away

hey guys and gals...now I have a problem.

Sunroof will not open or close...easily.

It sounds like the gears are grinding when I push my button. It will move a bit, then grind.

furthermore, the buttons do not always do what they are supposed to do. You know, like back or forward wont work it, but tilt will...visa versa...but only for a sec. because it then grinds.

how do these things work, I saw cables in the tracks...possible cable off the track? bad gear box, bad sunroof computer?

Likely. Some symptoms include sluggish engine, bad fuel economy, and poor acceleration.

I have been trying to get a straight up answer to this question for a while. Is the knock sensors in my car a problem that I need to be wooried about? If they are bad shoul I replaced them in a hurry or is a big problem period?

Can someone please give me a straight answer? I can take it

Can anyone Help me?

If you elect to not replace the knock sensor a multitude of interlaced electrical and mechanical problems will result.

The most important is the motors ability to advance or !Removed! spark timing as you operate the car.

This in very important if you use low octane 87 fuel. The knock sensor retards the electrical advance program inside the ignition timing module when it senses spark knock inside the combustion chambers.

Eventually, worst case scenario are burned valves and severe piston and piston ring damage.

Without a timing light I couldn't say for sure but you may not have any ignition advance at all without the knock sensor. Fuel economy would drop directly in the toilet if this happens.

I'd strongly recommend replacing it for your continued life expectancy of the motor.

ok Thanks I will!Does the knock sensor slow your rpm down and make your car run slower?

Higher mile warrenty tire made with hard rubbers. Michelin is way to go, if you looking for quiet ride.

Hope that helps.

agreed...gonna have to lilve with it if you want to have high mile warrenty tires.

I have been trying to get a straight up answer to this question for a while. Is the knock sensors in my car a problem that I need to be wooried about? If they are bad shoul I replaced them in a hurry or is a big problem period?

Can someone please give me a straight answer? I can take it

Can anyone Help me?

If you elect to not replace the knock sensor a multitude of interlaced electrical and mechanical problems will result.

The most important is the motors ability to advance or !Removed! spark timing as you operate the car.

This in very important if you use low octane 87 fuel. The knock sensor retards the electrical advance program inside the ignition timing module when it senses spark knock inside the combustion chambers.

Eventually, worst case scenario are burned valves and severe piston and piston ring damage.

Without a timing light I couldn't say for sure but you may not have any ignition advance at all without the knock sensor. Fuel economy would drop directly in the toilet if this happens.

I'd strongly recommend replacing it for your continued life expectancy of the motor.

How do I replace the rear valve cover gasket on my 93 lexus es300? Mechanic wants close to $400. I'd rather do it myself if it isn't too much of a hassle.

download the repair manual on the main post page.

Can I replace a water damaged amplifier with any stock pioneer amplifier from es 300 from years 92 -96?

I've seen Toyota 86280-33041 and Toyota 86280-33040 for sale but not sure which would work. Any thoughts?

Thanks,

should be no problem.

2005 ES 330 45,000 miles 17" wheels. Bought the car used about 2 years ago. Iy has always had a low grade whine-- thought it was the tire tread design. The car has Cooper Lifeliner tires that were on the car when I bought it. I rotated the tires and the noise came to the forefront-verty noticable. I exchanged the spare with the left front and the noise went away. It came back when I put the Cooper back on. Do tires make that kind of whining-- on every road surface--hot or cold. DO I wait to put the Michelins on until they wear some more or are is this tire dangerous. Tire pressure doesn't change it much.

[/quote

do the tires have a deep tread?

I think I have a short somewhere and it recently drained my battery after sitting for a week. The "open door light" is stuck on and some of the lights like the ignition key ring is also on. I tried to ignore it because the car usually starts if I drive it everyday but after a week with out charging the battery, its dead.

My question is where do I start looking to trouble shoot this problem. The doors are all closed, hood, trunk are also closed but this light is still on. Is there a relay somewhere that controls all this? I'm at a lost on this. I do not want to go to the dealer because it might cost more then the car is worth. Its a 92 ES.

TIA for all your suggestions...

likely a broken door switch. they are usually push type...the door pushes it in when closed. it could be broken off or something. just find out how your car controls this and off you go!! There is no relay.

You guys are the best! Here is what I posted about 7 or 8 months ago here:

1996 Lexus ES300, one owner, bought in 2003 for $9,000 with approx. 80,000 miles.

This has been the best car that I have ever owned, relatively few repairs, etc. I put on a set of new tires, and had it inspected regularly along with regular oil changes. I have had the inspection & minor repairs taken care of by a local Exxon service center.

In March of 2008, the car was running sluggishly so I took it in & they removed the valve cover, cleaned old gasket material & replaced with new gaskets (cost $448.03); in January of 08 it had throttle bore service.

The car now has about $143,000 miles. Since having the gasket/valve work done, it seemed to go through a lot of oil and when I started the car it would emit a lot of smoke initially but ran fine otherwise. It passed inspection fine in May of 2008.

On 11/14 the car began running poorly and the check engine light came on. When I took it in, Exxon told me that the "test failed systems & sensors"; the gentleman told me that it was spraying oil into the engine and it was only a matter of time ("3 days or 3 months" ... he couldn't tell me). Said it would cost several thousand to rebuild the engine.

I am presently unemployed (was recently laid off) & do not have any funds to buy a new car. Any advice? Should I get a second opinion or is the car shot?

They cleaned the #2 spark plug & it is running fine right now.

Thanks!

I will ask my mechanic about going to the next highest heat range. I really need this car to last me at least another year and any and all suggestions are welcome!

sounds to me like the repair work you had done when you first got the car is the cause of the problem. sometimes, to figure out what is wrong with your car you need to go back to what was done last...hence (and in my opinion) the reason why you are having the oil leak into the cylinders is because of some crappy work done when you had your gaskets replaced. the fact that your car was smoking on start up and other such things, indicates a crap job done by the mechanic.

so, tell me what the mechanics said when you took her in for being sluggish the first time...

Perhaps a little look at the gaskets they replaced? Keep in mind, 146 thou. on these cars is WAY to young to die.

I have 250 plus on mine, no smoke out of the pipes...etc. There are others with more...

don't worry, we will get you to the bottom of this...just need some more info.

Location of MAF showing by arrow.

Bt Pressing tab, disconnect the connector, and use 10MM to open MAF, also open air filter box to raise the MAF (otherwise other connector in the way to take out), use ONLY MAF Cleaner. spay cleaner inside, let it dry off and install back.

Hope that helps.

I will try 93 octane.

thanks for the help camlex!

One more thing, throw about 1/3 can of seafoam into your oil, seemed to help a bit for me as well. However, it is still "slightly" there. I hope I can knock it out with the MAF cleaning.

Zockslexus