newlexman

Hello Guys,

My mechanic is trying to figure out why the high side pressure to my airconditioner keeps going up. I dont have many details, but can anyone explain to me what could make the system rack up pressure as you use the air. It normally acts up in really hot dry weather. It is fine when it is cooler. I am the guy with the post that says the air makes the intermittent noise like a balloon letting out air and then you smell and see a little freon shoot out. Thanks

I had the egr 71 malfunction and replaced the egr modulator ,cost about a hundred bucks at the dealer, then cleared the check engine light. I have not had any more problems.

Thanks so much. I will tell the mechanic. He seems to be stumped. He keeps testing and finding the pressure going up on the high side but nothing is making sense as to why.

I guess no one has had this problem?

Hello Guys,

Last summer my air was not working and I replaced pretty much every part in the system. It began making this noise that sounds like flatulance(farting) or letting air out of a balloon that you just inflated before tieng it, and throwing off what i believe to be freon. We replaced several denso new air compressors at a mechanic shop until we finally got it working. All winter long I have been using it to defog windows and on warmer days at mild tempatures. The first really hot day we got, i cranked it up and this noise is now happening again. What did the mechanic do wrong so I can ring his neck when I take it back to him to leave it yet another time. Also If you could recommend a good mechanic in Atlanta Georgia for this car , I would appreciate it . I am tired of morons who dont understand this car hurting , not helping my vehicle.

Thanks my wise friends

Hello Fellas,

I was wondering if you could recommend a good mechanic in Georgia who really knows these cars. I grow weary of mechanics who guess and never look at any of the items that we discuss on here when there is something wrong with my car. 1991 lexus ls 400 Thanks

Ok I just bought a 1991 LS400 and when i hit the brake's it pulls to the right, and at lower speed's i hear this wierd like metal on metal squiking/grinding. Does any body knw what this is? I suspect the ball joint's but i wanted another opinion before i bought some. thank's.... Ohh and I know it's not the brake's squiking or grinding it sound's like some suspension parts.

I just had the same problem and turned out to be wheel bearing. Cost about 260 to fix. hope this helps.

Hey Guys,

On my 91 lexus ls400 , along with the high idle until the car warms up, when I turn the air up it idles back up to the same level as when you start it in the cold. Once it is warm . I can start air and it will build up the idle and stop when it is less than 1 slot on the rpm, if i turn air off , it idles back down. What could cause this.

Thanks

CEL code 71 is for the EGR pipe and it is only available on cali vehicles. the name is EGR system malfunction. 1st you wanna check for air leakage around the EGR valve on the engine. 2) then check the EGR vacuum modulator. 3) check VSV with cold engine. then check EGR and VSV with warm engine. 4) check EGR valve. 5) check VSV for EGR. 6) check voltage between terminal EGR of engine and ECT ECU connector and body ground. ask for more details. the other steps require checking voltage on the Engine and ECT ECU if those above steps dont work then ask and i'll give you details on the rest or if you want i can send you the repair article but it's too big to post on here.

I would apprecaiate that. Please send to arthurcarbonpro@gmail.com. Also does the fumes come from this issue or has anyone else had a code 71 with no fumes.

Hello Guys,

I have a 1991 ls400 with about 162000 on it and I need to get to the bottom of a couple of things. 3 things actually:

First, my car seems to have no alignment on the highway. My friend worked on my car and while he was under there he told me that my sway bar bolts were just hanging and he would screw them in . He told me later that he tried to tighten but they had nothing to tighten to. What can be done to get them tight again.

Next, my car seems to slow a lot as if i have the overdrive on when i coast at speeds around 60 or more on the highway.If I step on the gas it picks back up fine but if i coast, it slows like i was slightly breaking. I know for sure the overdrive button is not pressed in. I had the trans fluid changed to synthetic about 8 months ago. Gears change fine otherwise. What else could this be.....?

Last , i get a lot of fumes in my car most days and few with out. I have a code 71 right now as well when i check the codes. I have reset it and it came back on in an hour of driving. No noise besides maybe a light flutter on accel and i dont see any performance being effected. Just lots of rich fuel fumes and the light. I need to figure out how to tell myself if it is the egr pipe, or gas tempature sensor , without paying for both, or something else it could be. I took filter out of the vacuum mod and replaced with sponge material for now. Help....?

Hey Guys,

I am experiencing the symptoms you all describe with the flutter while reving the engine and i am pulling a code 71, egr failure with the check engine light on so i am assuming i have the busted pipe. I also experience exhaust smell coming in the car at different times while driving. I wanted to know what am i hurting by driving the car this way until i get the money to address the repair. Will the car eventually not run or am i hurting one of the systems in the car.

Thanks

Hello Guys,

I wanted to know if anyone else has had the cabin of the vehicle constantly seeming like the heat is on. While im driving i dont feel any fans blowing at any vents but it constantly seems like the heat is being thrown at me, even with the air set to maximum cool but the air will not be on. I dont have heated seats that I can tell and when I bought the car the driver seat is not even hooked up where it can move, no electrical engines on it. But on a hot day you can get in the car and it will be already hot, then when it moves additional heat is being thrown at me?

Can the differential have anything to do with my 91 ls 400 feeling like it needs motor mounts. My mechanic said the mounts are strong, but I feel to much shifting of the car when i put in reverse or go to drive. And when i am driving there is a delay in the shift, but I know it is nothing wrong with tranny?

No!

One of the things I love about my ls is that you cannot really tell when the ac is on. From an acceleration standpoint, or noise (well a little). Every car I've owned up to the ls400 would pause, shudder, bog down, or hesitate on A/C.

The ls should not. You may be able to hear the comp. but not much. Maybe at idle w/ the window down.

Sounds like the re-built wasn't rebuilt too well.

I'd check:

1-Amperage draw- could be a bad connection/ ground issue -check if it is within spec.

2-Oil charge- make sure the comp is not working overtime-- low oil will burn it out quickly. The whining on acceleration sounds like a low / no oil issue. Takes a lot of oil. Ask reman how much. Comp's need to come loaded with oil (the right oil for your refrigerent --r12-mineral oil-- 134- (pag or ester?). They are NOT compatible. Make sure comp was charged w/ oil when installed. May need more.

3- make sure ac low side pressure is somewhere in the 25-35psig range at idle after a couple minutes. This changes upon ambient outside temp. Add a refrigerent charge if low. What refrigerant are you using? Above is for r-12. Google: r12 a/c pt chart.

Idle should auto bump up, upon engaging a/c.

Check for leaks. Don't assume a new system does not leak. Do it before warranty runs out.

Sounds like another bad a/c job done by amateurs.

Save that compressor!

It does bump up upon engaging. r134 . I will find out how much oil in system.

Talked with mechanic he said compressor was full of oil and he added two ounces. He said he can try to add more if i want but he thought that would be enough. I want to know what you think. Air blows well, just that slight wine or humm when i turn on compressor. car seems harder to accelerate when the air is on. I will have him check pressure but he said he checked it and it was fine before he gave me the car back. I will also have to have it checked for the ground and amps.

I had a reman on another car (not a Lexus) and it was noisy too and pulled the motor down a bit. Sounds like it's just a low quality reman.

I hope not for 500 dollars

Asked, answered, and proven a scam, in a previous thread.

Please give me more info . I spoke with a mechanic at work and in his country they convert cars to propane and drive. He has been watching this technology and swears it should work based on the model. We are going to buy one that cost 60 bucks and put on his truck to see what it does......

No!

One of the things I love about my ls is that you cannot really tell when the ac is on. From an acceleration standpoint, or noise (well a little). Every car I've owned up to the ls400 would pause, shudder, bog down, or hesitate on A/C.

The ls should not. You may be able to hear the comp. but not much. Maybe at idle w/ the window down.

Sounds like the re-built wasn't rebuilt too well.

I'd check:

1-Amperage draw- could be a bad connection/ ground issue -check if it is within spec.

2-Oil charge- make sure the comp is not working overtime-- low oil will burn it out quickly. The whining on acceleration sounds like a low / no oil issue. Takes a lot of oil. Ask reman how much. Comp's need to come loaded with oil (the right oil for your refrigerent --r12-mineral oil-- 134- (pag or ester?). They are NOT compatible. Make sure comp was charged w/ oil when installed. May need more.

3- make sure ac low side pressure is somewhere in the 25-35psig range at idle after a couple minutes. This changes upon ambient outside temp. Add a refrigerent charge if low. What refrigerant are you using? Above is for r-12. Google: r12 a/c pt chart.

Idle should auto bump up, upon engaging a/c.

Check for leaks. Don't assume a new system does not leak. Do it before warranty runs out.

Sounds like another bad a/c job done by amateurs.

Save that compressor!

It does bump up upon engaging. r134 . I will find out how much oil in system.

Talked with mechanic he said compressor was full of oil and he added two ounces. He said he can try to add more if i want but he thought that would be enough. I want to know what you think. Air blows well, just that slight wine or humm when i turn on compressor. car seems harder to accelerate when the air is on. I will have him check pressure but he said he checked it and it was fine before he gave me the car back. I will also have to have it checked for the ground and amps.

No!

One of the things I love about my ls is that you cannot really tell when the ac is on. From an acceleration standpoint, or noise (well a little). Every car I've owned up to the ls400 would pause, shudder, bog down, or hesitate on A/C.

The ls should not. You may be able to hear the comp. but not much. Maybe at idle w/ the window down.

Sounds like the re-built wasn't rebuilt too well.

I'd check:

1-Amperage draw- could be a bad connection/ ground issue -check if it is within spec.

2-Oil charge- make sure the comp is not working overtime-- low oil will burn it out quickly. The whining on acceleration sounds like a low / no oil issue. Takes a lot of oil. Ask reman how much. Comp's need to come loaded with oil (the right oil for your refrigerent --r12-mineral oil-- 134- (pag or ester?). They are NOT compatible. Make sure comp was charged w/ oil when installed. May need more.

3- make sure ac low side pressure is somewhere in the 25-35psig range at idle after a couple minutes. This changes upon ambient outside temp. Add a refrigerent charge if low. What refrigerant are you using? Above is for r-12. Google: r12 a/c pt chart.

Idle should auto bump up, upon engaging a/c.

Check for leaks. Don't assume a new system does not leak. Do it before warranty runs out.

Sounds like another bad a/c job done by amateurs.

Save that compressor!

It does bump up upon engaging. r134 . I will find out how much oil in system.

Hello Yall,

Ive been watching this technology and i am considering putting this on my vehicle.

Let me know if you have tried this at all or what you think.

water4gas.com

runcaronwaterkit.com

Hello

I have finally got my air going. I have two concerns. When I turn on the reman compressor, it runs loud enough to hear if you pull down your windows. You can here the sound raise and lower with acceleration. Im wondering is this normal.

Also , when I turn it on i noticeably feel the car bogging down slightly as if someone tried to slow the car down. Is it normal to feel a slight change in power on a 1991 ls 400 with the air on.

Thanks

If he put 5 cans in that 1 lb. per can if it's the small cans so it would total to 5 lbs. That's a bit to much.

Go to any auto parts store and get a A/C fill hose with a gauge, they are not that expensive.

I was wrong, he put 3 cans in. ALso i was just driving and it started to make a wierd noise as if something was trying to get through somewhere every coupl of seconds. I turned off the air , and a burst of smoke came from under the hood. then i turned it on and it came on again. It did it about 15 minutes later again. I turned it off. ?????????? This air is driving me insane.

Need to know the preasures of low/high.

Did you put the correct amount of oil?

And finally were the fans working before you did the work, if so you shouldn't need to hot wire them, also it's not recomended because your not letting the engine come up to operating temp.

Sounds to me your just a little short of r134.

I dont know the pressure, but the guy was pretty knowledgeble who put it in about high side low side pressure. we put a used compressor on and he had to take it off because of the low , high thing. He said he made sure he put oil and i think 5 cans of freon in all. It must be a bit of knowledge on something he is missing that would solve this final issues. Can the hotwired fans be causing this. I believe the fans worked before. I bought the car with the air not working. at one time we put 134 a in it it was cold for two days then it was cold no more.

Hey guys,

I had a friend work on my air. We replaced compressor with reman, expansion valve, ac drier, and condensor. First I had it checked for leaks. He checked with dye to make sure we had no leaks. Made sure we were clear of r12 and we are doing 134a.

For some reason, it is very cold in the evening when the temp is lower(60-70), but when its hot in the day(85- 100), it seems to not get cold enough to make the car comfortable. I turned the car from heat to cold and they both work, also seems you can here the blend door changing over.

He hot wired the condensor fans because they were not coming on so now they stay on when the car is on. Also when the air on, the car idles up a notch on the rpms noticebly.

Is this how it is suppose to work. And is there any suggestions to check to see what is wrong with the cool. With all new equipment i would think this thing should run magnificently.

Hello,

My 91 ls 400 idles high on first start whether hot or cold outside. As soon as the temp light gets halfway between hot and cold, it idles down whether sitting or moving. It happens everytime. Is this normal or do I need to fix something. Thanks guys

Some of you know I had a thread here about a vibration that could really be felt between 35-50 mph. I took it to a local Lexus dealer and they dismissed it as it being the tires. I never thought so, but I had hoped this was it. I have not changed the tires, because they said the tread was still good and I should simply wear then out first- which I have been doing. After today, I am more convinced that its the motor mounts causing the vibrations. It was cold this AM and I had that little PS pump noise, so I "raced" the engine a little, up to about 2500 rpms a few times. I had my hand on the steering wheel and felt the same vibration at certain RPMs that I have been feeling on the road between 35-50 mph on smooth roads. With this said, does it sound like I indeed have worn motor mounts? The car has 209K (its a 91' LS) and I am sure they are original. Also when idling, I can feel a little engine vibration through the steering wheel and if I have the RF window down a little, it will rattle a little. This indicates to me that the mounts are worn. When I asked one of the Lexus techs this, he said that the mounts rarely go bad because they are liquid filled. From what I have heard from others with bad mounts, this makes no difference.

Now I am wondering.... could it also be the transmission mount rather than the engine mount, even if I am feeling it through the steering wheel when racing the engine? I am thinking motor mount, but not sure if a bad tranny mount would also allow vibration through the steering wheel during engine speed changes when in park. ??

If it is the engine mounts, about how much $$$ is this going to set me back? I also have a local independent repair shop with reasonable rates, but I prefer to have this done at perhaps the local Toyota dealer instead if its not a labor intense job. I am thinking that the motor mounts are costly from the dealer. I wonder if there is a good aftermarket set available at a good price? I want to get this fixed ASAP, as the vibration is driving me insane on this otherwise ultra smooth car.

Whats the best way to check the mounts for excessive wear?

Thanks guys!

The Lexus tech does not know what he is talking about. These mounts typically shear the rubber part. In hindsight, my failing motor mounts made my hood flutter. You could see it easily from the drivers seat. If your mounts are original, they are surely shot by 209k. I changed mine out at about 150m. The tranny mount is an easy DIY, the motor mounts a bit more work. Plenty of writeups about this procedure, including mine.

There is only original Toyota mounts available from the Lexus dealer. I haven't seen any aftermarket and wouldn't use any either. You do not want to repeat this repair. The parts were not cheap but they are typical Toyota beefy high quality. This is a straightforward repair for a good independent. When I got a bid from my guy, it was extremely reasonable for the amount of work that I did.

You will be amazed at the ride quality improvement from good motor mounts.

glenmore

1990 LS400

1991 300CE

2000 C280

Hello, Thanks for the info, where are the writeups and are there any diagrams I can get a hold of for my mechanic.

HELLO EVERYONE.

I have a 91 ls400 and the air does not blow cool. I havent had the car officially checked by expert but my mechanic friend says it has 40 lbs of coolant and all systems engage fine when it is turned on. Could anyone tell me some things to check to repair this. Blower works, heat works fine, it just doesnt cool.