lemaylexus

Well in the manual it says if the compressor isn't working the A/C light will blink. It doesn't blink, it stays on solid like it normally would. I know there is freon because last month when I was having my brakes done I had them check all the fluids.

Alright. I know of a good dealer out of Houston I could get the part from. I guess I should take it to my mechanic and have him tell me if the compressor is bad. I don't know any other way of figuring it out.

Well, today was the first day it really got warm enough for me to turn the AC on. (I've been stressed from these earthquakes, I live about 15 minutes from the epicenter in Illinois. Unusual for around here.) Anyway the AC is blowing warm. Last fall I had an occasional blinking AC light but it was still blowing cold. Now there is no blinking light, it stays solid, just warm air. There is refrigerant in it. I assume I'm probably looking at a bad compressor. Anyone know how much they cost or where I could get a cheap one? I tried searching the forums but it didn't come up with anything for some reason. Anyway any help would be much appreciated.

I'm trying to find out if the small strip of stock blue tint along the top of my '97 SC300's windshield is magnetic or not. I want to mount my radar detector as high as possible on my windshield, both for better effectiveness and conspicuousness, but I know magnetic tint affects the reflections used by the detector. Anybody have any ideas/suggestions?

I agree completely. I think the deal is it's compatible with two bolt patterns, 5x100mm and 5.45". If you look at the pic there are 10 bolt holes on the wheel. Seems like $88 a pop is pretty damn cheap, too. I may end up buying these wheels.

The bolt pattern isn't correct. I guess that's the 4th thing I forgot to add on my original reply. Bolt pattern for our cars is 5x114.3 Most cars today use that pattern; only backwards American cars still use 5x100. A few odd German cars still use it too. As for the tire's fitment onto a rim, 225/55R16 can fit on 7" easily. Each tire has a width range; most 225/55R16 tires have a width range from 6" to 8". Sometimes different tire brands have slightly different ranges. Check tirerack.com for spec details. By the way, this forum really needs to create an info topic about tires and rims. I'd be glad to write it. Well, if 25.4mm still equals 1 inch then those wheels have to be the correct bolt pattern at 5x4.5in. Sorry if I'm missing something obvious here, but how isn't that the correct bolt pattern?

I've been experiencing a fairly severe wobble in the wheel at various speeds and when breaking at higher speeds. Feels like I need new rotors, which may be the case, but I also think all of the wheels on my SC are bent because my local tire dealer told me he couldn't get any of them in perfect balance (even when he puts weights on both the inside and outside of the rim) when I bought new tires a couple months ago. Anyway I'm looking at buying some new wheels now as this wheel wobble is getting extremely annoying. Does anybody know if my new set of 225/55 R16's will fit on these rims? I know it's probably an easy answer but I don't know enough about tires to know if they'll fit or not. And what do you guys think of the way the wheels look? My 97 SC is silver, so I think it would be a good match. I hope these rims will fit, they seem to be within the obvious boundaries of what Bosy said. Just did a little more research and figured out the stock rims are 16x6.5, and since those rims are 16x7 I don't think the 225/55R16's will fit. If someone could confirm that though, I'd appreciate it.

I never resolved my situation, but this might help you out. Soarer dash removal

So according to that chart, my engine is interference. I suppose it's probably a good idea to change the timing belt this summer whether it appears to need it or not then. I've got 110k on it now, hopefully it can make it to 120k.

My vehicle has had 3 previous owners, and I don't have the full service history. It's a 97 sc300. I bought it with 100k miles on it and it seems to run great, but just to be on the safe side, I've been thinking about having the timing belt replaced this summer. It's got 110k miles on it now. Are there any symptoms, such as a characteristic noise from the engine, that I should be looking for? I'm not really inclined on engines so to be honest I'm not even sure where the timing belt is to look at and see if there are rubber teeth missing or what not. Just figured its better to change it now if it never has been than to be sorry I didn't later.

I don't know if this was only on the newer models or not, but on my 97 SC300 when I lock the car with the keyfob it just beeps once and when I unlock it beeps twice. No horn. I was having the same problem with the very short range. Probably just need to put in a new battery. That fixed my problems and now I can set off the panic from a window 4 stories up.

since i posted last i've found the culprit of the problem and a temporary solution. what i was talking about is the little piece of metal that keeps the door open at certain points as you open and close the door, its like a little metal cover with some bumps on it around the hinges where the door meets with the body of the car. that has apparently become rusted and is causing an extremely loud squeaking sound at two points as i close or open the door. i got out the WD-40 when i figured out that was making the noise, and i greased it as well as I could without taking that cover off. that seems to have almost completely silenced the squeaking for now. I'm thinking about taking that cover off so i can get in there and clean it and actually put some serious grease on it besides WD-40, as it only seems to work for about a day without being reapplied.

Well the title pretty much explains my situation. I'm getting the all too common two loud pops when I open and close my drivers side door. I've tried to WD-40 all the areas that look like they could be the culprit, to no avail. I'm afraid this may eventually do some damage to something other than the hinge. So I'm curious, what options, if any, do I have that cost less than $500?

Thanks for the suggestions. It's unfortunate that I gotta open it back up again because I just did that for the drivers side tail light not more than two months ago. Oh well. Also JohnH, I'm not sure what contacts you're referring to. Would you care to specify a little more? Thanks again.

Hello all. I have sort of a strange problem. Sometimes I'll start my car and the lights will come on just fine. Other times I'll start it and the indicator that tells you that you have a light burnt out will come on. I get out to go check it and its always the passenger side tail light. If I tap on the light itself, it will come on. Problem solved. But any idea what could be causing this? It's kind of annoying having to get out and tap my tail light (especially with a lady in the car, haha) even if it is only every once in a while. The car is a 1997 SC300.

Honestly from what I've ready on the forums I'm not so sure that there's a large difference in actual gas mileage between the V6 in the SC300 and the V8 in the SC400. I have a 300 and I generally get around 20mpg (up to 23 or 24 on the interstate, and as low as 15 or 16 in the city). I think you would be looking at around the same for the 400. If anyone knows different, please feel free to correct me! Haha :)

Hey everyone! I had a quick question I figured someone on here could answer for me, or at least point me in the right direction. I've got a fairly new Pioneer head unit (Pioneer DEH-P4800MP) that I bought to put in my Jeep, but since then I bought a 97 SC300 (which I love, by the way) and I've decided I want to put it in there instead. I much prefer the direct line-in sound quality of the aftermarket Pioneer to the tape adapter I'm using now. I currently have the stock Lexus premium sound, not the Nakamichi. I know that there's a sub and a mono amp somewhere and I'll need the correct wiring harness so all of that stuff will work. I'm just not sure where to go about finding the harness. If anybody could let me know what, if anything, else I need, or could point me in the direction of the correct harness, it would be much appreciated. Also, if anyone has any suggestions as to a better option for line in, such as using the changer line-in or an fm modulator, I'm open to anything. I wasn't sure if the changer line-in could be used or not. As you can see I'm pretty lost here. Haha. Thanks in advance! Dan

96 Chrysler Sebring JXi - sitting out in the barn waiting on me to put a new distributor in it 97 Jeep Wrangler 4cyl manual - winters here can get nasty, still have it as well now driving a silver/black 97 sc300 and loving every second of it.

looks really clean :) congrats!