Rogerm

I called 4 dealerships.. granted it is Sunday.   Not much help .

I do know that the seats need to be reset.

I was told you did NOT need to do resets for mileage.   One online help, said it would reset by itself over a week or so.

They all wanted me to bring it in.

One Service guy said drive it for 30 min after jump starting it and it will be ok. ???   Sounds like I'll try that.

On 6/14/2009 at 3:32 PM, Solace said:

When you all installed your batteries, was it as simple as with other cars? Did you have any problems with the car's computer loosing settings?

Solace

Are any resets needed after installing a new battery?

Do you have a picture that shows the two parts and the seal between them?

I have had good luck using 3M 1 inch wide Scotch Tape. Two layers over the top of the two halves of the headlight.

It last about 2 years .... but it works and is easy to do.

I had tried silicone caulk... did not work.

Velcro same color

Glue with Elmers and tape with painter tape until dry.

Cheap

Easy

Works

Mine is still fine after a year.

3M makes a really good kit Auto Zone or Trac Auto... or online

yes servos

I repaired mine with same color Velcro. (tan in my case)

Looks and works great. still going after a year.

However,

On the headliner, I used about a 3 inch long strip of 1/2 in wide Velcro. I attached it with Elmers wood glue.

I taped it with 3M paint tape. Until dry.

On the visor, I cut 2 1/2 x 1/2 in pieces. applied about 1/2 inch apart. Used same gluing procedure.

Very cheap,

Very Easy,

Very Effective.

Very Attractive.

Your sunroof drain tubes need to be cleaned...

I did mine...

I don't know where I found out where they were and how to do it.

used a coated flexible steel cable. lots of water

Did it from the top all four corners. and from under the car up.

Used small wire as well.... just keep going deeper each time and adding water.

mine had algea build up I think.

Fixed the problem...

the actuators ( there are about 3 or 4) divert air from various locations to other locations.

There contacts can get dirty. They are usually replaced. but can have the contacts cleaned.

Fairly common problem in older Lexus RX300

It's on the passenger side.

From underneath

Look at the firewall where it transitions to the floor.

Look between the wishbones... about as far back as the center of the tire.

Its not far from the catylictic converter and the drive shaft U Joint.

It's a 1/2 to 1/4 inch black tube...comes out about an inch then 90degree downturn for another inch.

I tried to upload a picture to the media area, but could not....

They say:

We are currently making improvements to the Media Library.

Go to Youtube.com

Then

For some reason, this forum IDENTIFIES a " A/C Condensate Drain Clog"'

But

You can search 20 entries and NOT find the Solution for FIXing it !!!

Hear it is on YouTube.. Plain, Simple, Clear and Cheap

...

LOCATION

It is on the drivers side.

The location of the 1/2 to 1/4 black drain tube is on the firewall, near the floor.

it runs out about 1 in,,, 90degree turn down and another inch.

If you look up to thru the wishbone....about as far back as the center of the tire.

You'll see it... near the drive shaft U Joint and nor far from the catylitic converter.

Have a picture, but could not get this site to take my upload.

For some reason, this forum IDENTIFIES a " A/C Condensate Drain Clog"'

But

You can search 20 entries and NOT find the Solution for FIXing it !!!

Hear it is on YouTube.. Plain, Simple, Clear and Cheap

...

...

From youtube direct type in

Another site suggests hooking a garden hose up to it an giving is

several bursts.

For some reason, this forum IDENTIFIES a " A/C Condensate Drain Clog"'

But

You can search 20 entries and NOT find the Solution for FIXing it !!!

Hear it is on YouTube.. Plain, Simple, Clear and Cheap

...

For some reason, this forum IDENTIFIES a " A/C Condensate Drain Clog"'

But

You can search 20 entries and NOT find the Solution for FIXing it !!!

Hear it is on YouTube.. Plain, Simple, Clear and Cheap

...

For some reason, this forum IDENTIFIES a " A/C Condensate Drain Clog"'

But

You can search 20 entries and NOT find the Solution for FIXing it !!!

Hear it is on YouTube.. Plain, Simple, Clear and Cheap

...

FYI, velcro has not worked successfully b/c the adhesive is not stronger than the bond of the velcro. perhaps a quick stitch could work.... I don't see paying $120 for a sun visor is appropriate.

Two Points of Velcro:

o Get the auto velcro that withstands the heat.

o Cut off some of the "hair" on the velcro...so it does not hold quite so tight... so tight that it pulls the

velcro adhesive off the headliner; but still tight enough to hold the visor up.

I posted the velcro solution before the crip solutio was posted... the crip at 2 5/8ths inches in is probably better.

2000 RX300, driver side sunvisor keeps falling down. No problem for my wife, but I'm taller and it annoys me.

Any tips to get it to stay in place.

This has been discussed before...

It is possible to cut the fabric and crimp down on a preasure sleve to tighten it.

The easiest way is if the problem is just keeping it in the up possition is to use a very small velcro strip.

All:

Did the following and it works.

http://my.is/forums/f90/cleaning-maf-sensor-diy-394837/

Lots of good pictures...

So easy

Unplug the MAF

remove the MAF... two screws...

spray contact cleaner ( degresser type)

Replace... also checked the air filter and tubes for leaks.

and you can spot the crud. The two wires on mine were soooo crudy that you could not even see them

with the flashlight.

Saves ... $ 500 or more from shop to replace a MAS.

Also used the OBD tool that I bought from Enova.. to reset the light and codes.

This $ 200 device has saved me more grief and dollars...and easy to use.

( Gives you the generic and Lexus/Toyota codes, their explanation, and all Freeze Frame data.

They should be built into all autos...but the dealer shops would loose alot of service money.

But I'm sure this did the trick since , it starts better, runs better cold and runs

with much more pep and accurate shifting.

Wow.

before you bake them, try cleaning them up with Meguiars PlasticX. It made a huge improvement on mine and only takes a couple of minutes. Yellowing and haze that appeared to be on the inside were actually removed, especially near the top of the lens. It's worth a shot, if it doesn't work just throw them badboys in the oven.

----------

PlasticX is great stuff. I would use it even if you don't think you need it.

Won't solve water problem though.

Need some help with a head light problem.....water gets inside...what the best way to get it out..even the condinsation...and why does this happen and what can i do to prevent it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

THis may not be the perfect place to post this, but my searches did not bring back the results I was looking for.

My two high beam lights are foggy and I have heard that the stuff used to clean the plasitic windows of convertable tops works, but my biggest challenge is getting in there to clean them.

Anyone know the easiest way to get these light out - pictures would be great

Thanks for your help

Plastic-X -- is great for cleaning the outside of the lenses. When they get a little old and oxidized.

It is not for the water problem. It does take some rubbing.

Not exactly sure of the name... they also make a other X products.

My finger is pointing to the part that has to be tightened (i.e., clamped down with vise grips). It should be obvious why sticking toothpicks in there is futile - the clamp's too far in. Make sure the mechanism is in the "up" position before clamping it.

Any way you could measure that and let us know the distance from where the pivot arm goes into the visor to the "squeeze" point? Just trying not to have to cut into it.

Thanks.

---------------------------------

Just eyeballing it.... It Looks like the distance to the middle of that part that needs to be crimped

.... is about 6 times the diameter of the prvot arm ROD.

Has anyone tried ... probeing with a long needle or pin ... to find the two ends of this part?

My local AutoZone says they don't do the scans anymore. they did say they had a scanner that I could purchase. Any idea's what a decent scanner for personal use would cost. And any favorite models etc.

Thanks

--------------------------------------

With the cost of Auto Repair( Especially LEXUS ) these days, ... $ 1000 is not out of the average.

I decided not to scrimp on a SCANNER !!!

[[Telling a mechanic a scan code and that you have and know how to use a scanner;

is a way to have him know you appreciate his skills and he will likely do only what you need.]]

Based on what a really good Transmission Service Uses ( They race.)

and online research... I chose:

Equues

INNOVA

Didital Can OBD 2 & 1

Scan Tool

Model 3140

http://www.equus.com/product_info.php?prod...egory_id=1_10_7

You can get it for $ 250 I think.

Works on alot of cars.

Works while on the road.

Really versatile.

Good manual..

Since it has alot of features ... it does takes a learning curve.