BRAKATK

I have owned Goodyear, Pirelli, Continental and Falkens on my GS300. The goodyear Invicta were the stock and they were pretty mushy. The Pirelli were the P6000 Sport Veloce and they improved the handling and steering significantly without harming the ride. They got pretty slippery at the end of their tread life though. The Conti's were ContiExtreme's and they were amazingly grippy in wet and dry, but a bit louder on the hwy at 80mph (i drive fast I guess). I currenlty have Falken Azenis ST115's on 245/40-18 in front on a 18x8.5 wheel and 275/35-18 on a 18x9.5 wheel in back. They are super grippy in dry and wet, and ride very smoothly for this width and profile. They are quieter over seams and bumps than the Conti's. The car is overall quieter than the Conti's also. In a thicker profile, they would be an extremely quiet high performance tire (as advertized!). That is what I know about tires on my Lexus in a nutshell. All these tires were "reasonably priced" in their category (More than Kuhmo and far far less than Michelin). Good luck!

Deep dark green on a sporty car of any kind.

If you are having work done that involves removing/replacing the struts and/or mounts and the car is near 90k in mileage, seriously consider getting the KYBs and having them installed. Compare prices online and have the shop match the price or just order them online and bring them in for the shop to install. Newer KYB struts will preserve the Lexus ride.

I have a K&N Gold Series. I have been very happy with K&N products over the years. I am sure a lot of Fram users are freaked out about now!

This is the key bit for real improvements:

"It also includes an ECU that recalibrates the air-fuel ratios for optimal performance and enhanced fuel economy."

This what I want from a JET reprogramming for my '93. I wish a kit like this existed for the Gen I cars!

I have tried to find better shocks for my lowerd car to no avail. I am about to order some new KYB GR2's for my 1993 GS300. I am interested in the Japanese KYB's that are available. Maybe Guru can pm me?

What about a cold air induction, a cat-back dual exhaust, AND an ECU/ECM reprogramming? I talked with the guys at JET chip and they said they could reprogram the ECM to either a "Stage I" or "Stage 2" (depending on mods to the car) to gain 30+ HP on top of the other mods. Also, what about a wet or dry Nitrous set-up?

Seems these option all would give some real seat-of-the-pants performance improvements w/o getting a turbo or new car? Just some ideas.

There have been many discussions on this here in this forum and in the UK club section in the past. I am sure you can find more if you search a bit.

At the risk of grossly oversimplifying, the reset allows your car's control unit to "re-learn" your driving preferences (e.g., hard accelleration vs. gradual accelleration). The typical outcome is that the car is more responsive and the characteristic "lag" in the transmission that develops (affecting acceleration) disappears. It's a pretty easy thing to try if you are curious.

I wish I had more info on the sensors, etc. as GuyTelefunken asserts these mods should not have any effect. I can attest (as others like DannV have) that the open element and reset (and the reset alone) do improve the cars acceleration. It seems that the first gen cars respond more to this stuff than the later models. Does anyone have a theory/info on why that might be?

^^^^Thanks for the pointer. Their caliper and hub paints look pretty good. :)

Here is a photo of my headlight plastic-not the best photo quality but it is very clear after the Meguire's.

Thanks. I should invest in a service manual. Where did you get yours? As far as strut braces go, the one I installed is the factory Aristo front brace, and I can attest to the improved steering response, solid feel and flatness in turns. I talked to others (some LOC)with it before I installed mine-all felt it helped. I race vintage mustangs and they make a huge difference on those cars as well. Believe what you want. They also make people go AHHHH!

I do not know if the rear bars make much difference, but maybe someone on here can enlighten us.

The Continental ContiExtreme is a pretty grippy tire in wet and snow and a pretty good bargain.

Your cc might also have insurance for damaged and returned items. Depends on your "level" etc. Also, a registered letter to WheelMax that you intend to comm to the BBB and to LOC etc. will get them to take notice and come clean I bet. From there is might be small claims court...

In my case, Lexus told me to actuate the moonroof periodically to keep the cables and hardware lubricated. Since I rarely used mine, the cable became brittle and snapped. So slide that thing a few times a week no matter what.

I've had a Solo model for years. Time for a new one-I prefer the cordless version of the Passport.

FYI-The Brembo OEM replacement rotors at Tirerack are NOT coated/plated and will corrode. Can anyone recommend a coating to spray on the hub portion? I was thinking of a heat paint or "Cast blast" -type coating. While we are at it, can anyone recommend a caliper paint brand or tips?

Tint is very nice in summer, and helps cut down the HID glare from behind as well. Also, consider a colored tint that will complement your body color. For example, I have a light bronze tint on a dark green body color. BTW, $125 is a for the whole car is good deal to me. Just be sure the front windows are not too dark or Johnny Law will have a word with you. Good luck!

After the tune up, might want to reset the ECU as well.

Sorry to hear about the jiggly ride. Do you have a front or rear strut brace? I added a front strut brace from an Aristo and it really helped front end response. I am running factory bars. Maybe go back to the factory bars and ad strut bars?

How are the GR2 shocks? My GS is getting kind of bouncy after 93k miles and a 30mm lowering spring install. Did you install them yourself? How was that?

Never had that happen, but did have the moonroof snap a cable. You could pull the fuse for the moonroof to get any random electrical energy out of the circuit. Sort of a reset. It cannot hurt and often saves a trip to the dealer and $$$.

I used the same part and it works great. Be sure and lube the metal antenna shaft with a good silicon or Slick 50 spray lube and blot the excess off.

No worries! I should mention that many (most) spring upgrades lower the car 1-2" from stock.

Redstar-I have found it difficult to source shocks for the 93-97 GS300. The stock are KYB GR2. I have checked Tokico, Bilstein, and others. Coilovers are another story-many choices there-do a search and read on for days....

Most I've talked with that use spring/shock set up go Eibach, HKS, Intrax, Vogtland, or another spring and then a new set of the GR2's to keep a more factory ride. I'd be curious if there are other "shocks only" upgrades out there for the Gen 1 cars?

Are the Brembo others cad plated? I hate the corrosion that forms on the hub after a while.

After I modded the airbox, I reset the ECU and "drove it like I stole it" as they say. The acceleration seems better (no more characteristic big lag) and my 0-60 time is a tad faster according to my watch.

I plan on getting the ECM computer reprogrammed to a Stage 1 or Stage 2 profile. That should make for a noticable improvement as a whole as the computer uses the increased air more effectively. Better exhaust flow will help as well.

Some guys on LOC claim a dyno read of 10HP increase with the Blitz air kit. Other cars post even better numbers with K&N air intake upgrades-but they usually tweak their ECM/ECUs as well.

Have you tried resetting the EFI fuse? It does work as described.