R.Holmes

no joy after half a dozen attempts

the security light (red light, middle of cluster, shaped like a car w/key inside?) just flashes, never stops

thanks anyway

Go to www.toy-lex.com and try using their programming procedures for your car. I just got a new transponder and went to this site and used the programming procedure for my 2003 ES300 and it worked the first time. Maybe the procedure I sent you will only work for my year ES300. Find your car in the programming and try it.

I just went to the site and looked up your car. LX470 04 Correct? It says that your key cannot be programmed. Needs to go to the dealer to have it programmed. Sorry that I couldn't help.

no joy after half a dozen attempts

the security light (red light, middle of cluster, shaped like a car w/key inside?) just flashes, never stops

thanks anyway

Go to www.toy-lex.com and try using their programming procedures for your car. I just got a new transponder and went to this site and used the programming procedure for my 2003 ES300 and it worked the first time. Maybe the procedure I sent you will only work for my year ES300. Find your car in the programming and try it.

thanks R Holmes, will try it here in a few, any chance of "de-programing" the master cause that would really suc

Is it just me but does this all sound like witch-doctory

Will let yall know how it goes, thanks again.

I have instructions for deleteing programmed keys from the computer but will not send unless you need it.

For those folks who are looking for replacing or may just need addition to their existing key, you just found the answer. I got my new OEM key recently from ebay (see actual seller below). It was about $139 out the door (shipping, key remote w/ cover, and cutting - providing your VIN number). I was so happy for this buy due to the dealer gave me a quote for the key for about $285 not including the programming before I bought a key. I was lucky that the dealer did not charge me for programming my new key since I was there for them to program my wallet key.

http://stores.ebay.com/LexFans

Hope this helps!

Try www.ikeyless.com

oh yeah, I already have the $300 key, so being able to program it is the way I want to go

Iv downloaded and even purchased new key programing off the forum and none of it works

anyone know of a sure thing aside from calling a witch-doctor or taking it to the stealership and buying the programing?

04 LX470

Arlington Texas

I too purchased a transponder and the instructions were difficult to follow but it did work after many times trying but I got these instructions from the forum and they work perfectly. They are for toyotas and lexus and they worked for me the first time. I will list the procedure for you and hope it works

1. Simultaniously depress and release brake and accelerator 1 time

2. Insert master key, DO NOT TURN KEY

3. Depress and release accelerator 5 times

4. Depress and release brake 6 times

5. Insert new key and depress and release accelerator 1 time

6. In 80 seconds, security light goes out. Key is programmed

7. Remove new key and depress and release brake 1 time

Now try the key for all fuctions. (door locks, engine starts, etc)

Hope this works for you. Post your results.

My Wife has a 2003 IS 300 that won't eject a CD from the radio. It won't accept other CD's or play the CD that's stuck. I'm thinking it's a dealer issue but I thought that maybe somebody else has had this problem and could give me some advice. Thanks

I am not familiar with the IS but I think it is the same radio and CD changer that the ES 300 has. I have an 03 ES 300 with the same problem. After working with the changer,(loading and ejecting) several times until I could see the cd and got it to eject enough that I could get twezzers to get it out, I removed the radio and changer from the car. Separated the changer from the radio,(several screws separates the changer and radio). Took the cover off the changer,( 4 screws I think) and lubed the cd mechanism with litheum grease with a Q-Tip. Was very careful not to get too much. You can see the tracks or moveable parts where it was lubed from the factory. Replaced the unit and operated the cd changer several times to spread the grease a little. At first it wouldn't eject but after about 4 loads and ejects, it started to workd like it was intended. Be sure to use a cd that you don't mind destroying because when it try to ejects and does not eject, the mechanism scratches it. Hope this helps

Just a quick follow-up. The keys were delivered certified mail on the 27th (about 2 weeks after I ordered). I'm very happy. I started with one cracked master key (had to be very careful turning the car on), and ended up with 2 fully programmed and working master keys (ordered one new master, and a new shell and moved the 'guts' over) -- for less than the dealer wanted to charge me for 1 new key.

Programming was very easy following the instructions on the website, though I did have to go through the remote programming a few times until I held the key in the right place (up by the sunroof controls) for the final step to work. Can't believe the dealer wanted to charge me $90 for the 5 minutes it took me. It helped having 2 people, one to put the key in and out and one to open and close the door (and to have the timer for the 2-second / 1-second button presses at the end).

No complaints ... toy-lex.com did a great job.

Try www.ikeyless.com Got mine for $84.90 with shipping and I programed it myself and had local locksmith cut it for me. (Free) Got it in 3 days

Can a used remote smart key from another Lexus car be programmed for another Lexus car? There are used smart keys (remote) available at Ebay and I want to buy one for additional spare remote key (the already cut mechanical metal key of course becomes useless).

I don't see why not. I just got my new key and programed it to my car and went next door and reprogrammed it to his car.

Got my key from

www.ikeyless.com

The dealer can cut the key without programming it by the vin.

you need a working key to do it any cheaper.

Lexus head office may be able to help with the cost of computer reprogramming.

Try www.ikeyless.com Replacement keys are cheap and comes with programming instructions. Mine cost me $84.90 with shipping. Programed it myself and works perfectly.

Welcome to the LOC, Rabid! I have not used this site below, but I have heard a bunch of people claiming good service and reasonable prices.

www.toy-lex.com

Thanks Ray!

Say, it looks like you have just the key I need ;)

Hi guys, I had the same problem and found this site www.ikeyless.com

Ordered the key for my 03 es300 and recieved it today. Programing instructions came with the key. Just programed it and it works perfectly. Programing was a cinch and easy as cutting a pie. Cost of my key was $79.95 plus $4.95 shipping.

$84.90 and I have a new master or spare key. Local locksmith cut it for free. If any of you have a problem with your keys such as cracked cases or case is coming apart or worn key, you can go to any locksmith (Most any) and buy a key and have it cut and put the old transponder into the new key.

Hi guys and gals.

In my last post of buying a later model ES300 (03) I was very excited but now I don't know. I am experiencing several problems that I did not expect. First the transmission is acting up, rough idle and now the cd changer will not eject the cds. Have solved the rough idle and trany is better now but the radio removal and cd changer is stumping me now. Any advice before going to the wrecking yard for some education. (Much more envolved than my 98) Still have my 98 and enjoy driving it more than the 03. You have helped me on my 98 so don'tl fail me now.

THANKS

I've searched through plenty of threads here on the site but still can't find exactly what I'm looking for. Here's the thing....

My 1997 ES300 radio display is out.

Purchased 2000 ES300 radio for cheap. It came with a wiring harness.

The factory harness plugs from 97 radio and the 2000 are slightly different.

Went to walmart, best buy, o'reilly, autozone, circuit city to check out harnesses.

No one knows anything.

Can I splice all of the wires from the 2000 harness with the 97 wires? Some of the wire colors are different and I have been looking for wiring diagrams for both cars to show what all of the colors are to see if they will match for everything.

Pretty much I'm wondering if this can be done before I even attempt to try. Pictures can be posted up if anyone wants.

Thanks.

I have a '98 ES 300 and when my display went out, I bought the display and replaced it. As far as interchanging radios, I found that the '97,98,99 radios are interchangeable. 2000 and later are different. The wires can be spiced but I would not take the chance. My advice is to buy the display and change it out. Very simple to do.

Hi fellow members!! After driving my '98 ES300 for the past 3 years and keeping it running in tip-top running condition (Thanks to member support on helping with the few repairs needed) I have to say good bye to it. I just "STOLD" a 2003 ES300 with 42,000 miles, Gold in color, inside and out. Perfect condition for $14,000.00. I will be looking forward to your help when I run into problems that I need help with to keep this one running as well as the '98.

Thanks again for your help in the past.

Anybody have the instructions for 98+ Es 300 stereo removal? I have searched and found some 92 posted instructions. I'm just being my usual cheap self and wanting to save $6

btw -- first post but I've had my 98 ES300 since 2001. Great car, except for the check engine light that never goes out, and the completely faded LCD display. Almost traded it in for a 2005 Mecedes C230 Sport. but they only would give me 3500 on the trade. Traded my Tiburon instead. 170,000 miles on the ES and she runs great. Needs rear struts, the fronts were done at about 120K.

Great site!

quick edit --- I think I found some instructions. They are for a 2000 but looks the same as mine. Thanks anyway.

The instructions you have for the 2000 are probably the same for the 98. I also have a 98 and have replaced the radio and it is quite simple. About the check engine light that never goes out? The codes that triggered the light has to be diagnosed, corrected and reset to clear the light. Go to Auto-Zone of some place to get the codes read in order to correct the problem that is causeing the light to come on and post the codes for help.

Send me a personal e-mail with the instructions you have and I will tell you if they are good. I have removed and replaced several radios in a 97,98,and 99 es300

Thankyou very much.

Been very helpful. I am going to do it myself. Will get the CRC electronic cleaner and clean the MAF and reinstall.

Very easy to do.

Thanks again.

If cleaning or replaceing the MAF,doesn't solve your problem, check for vacum leak in the vacum booster. That is where my problem was

good work. did you use the overhaul kit. how much is the part. is it a diy. is this a common issue.

Most of it was trial and error. With suggestions of what the problem might be from members of the forum, I just started elimenating .

After getting frustrated, I sat back and re-analized what I was doing. That is when I found the problem. I bought a new booster but had a problem with the clearence adjustment between the booster and the master cyclinder (Adjustment was very tight). I returned it and had my booster rebuilt for $175. After market (new) was $190 and dealer quoted $600. Time quoted was three hrs. at $75. per. I did it in 1.5 hrs. and a half hr bleeding the brakes.Other than that. it was just time consuming. Had to remove the air cleaner and canister and master cyclinder and connections to the brake pedel. That was the hardest. (Tight fit space)

The last time I saw this code was on a camry and it was the o2 sensor

Update on my p0171 code problem: After weeks of agonizing troubleshooting to solve this agravating code, I finally solved the culprit.!!!

After exausting all the suggestions recieved from fellow members and talking to mechanics (each mechanic, different solution) I found where the problem was. I sat back and analized what was going on.Checked ok(A/F,Maf. Map etc. etc.) All vacumn hoses, canister, fuel pressure checked ok. I was ready to pull my hair ( What little I have left) Most indication of the lean fuel mixture was vacumn leak somewhere. Internally or intake? I very faintly hear a hissing sound near the canister, checked it (and hoses again) all ok. Where is there a very high vacumn?? Brake booster!!!!!! Cleared the code and removed the vacumn hose to the booster. Code emmediately came on. Plugged the hose and the code was gone. (No power brakes of course!!!) Code stayed off while idleing for about an hour. Replaced the booster and have driven car for about a week and the code has not returned. Apparently I had a pin hole leak in the diafram of the booster. Just enough to trigger the code. Hopes this helps someone else with the P0171 code.

PS: A stetoscope would have been helpful in detecting the leak.

DTC P0171 System too Lean (Fuel Trim)

P0171

When the air fuel ratio feedback is stable after engine warming

up, the fuel trim is considerably in error on the RICH side

(2 trip detection logic)

Air intake (hose loose)

Fuel line pressure

Injector blockage

Heated oxygen sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1) malfunction

Mass air flow meter

Engine coolant temp. sensor

Checked all hoses Ok

Replaced fuel pump and filter a few months back

Ran injector cleaner in two tanks of gas, even used higher octane fuel

Changed MAF

Engine coolant temp sensor seems to be working properly according to engine manual check out procedures

Have not checked Heated Oxygen sensor. Will do that tomorrow.

Thanks.

High guys, & Gals, I know this is not a new topic but I have searched the forum and read all the threads (that I could find) about the P0171 error code and tried all the fixes (?) but the code keeps coming up. This is what I have done so far

Cleaned MAF, Didn't work

Repalaced MAF, IAT sensor. Didn't work ( IAT is incorperated in the MAF sensor)

Checked ECT sensor and it is working properly

Replaced Coils, Didn't work

I clear the code and Check Engine light and it stays off for about 1/2 hrs of driving and it comes back on.

Can anyone offer me any more suggestions on how to solve this problem? Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

I checked my hoses and they look to be ok

I drove the car around the block and definitely heard some kind of hissing sound from the engine...rpm still won't go below 1700

come to think of it, when i was taking apart the black coil and IACV, there was some kind of sticky gasket between them and half stayed on the IACV and other half stayed on the black coil...can i replace that gasket? if so, where can i pick one up?

it's weird no CEL either

Your thoughts...thanks!!!

There is a gasket between the coil and the body of the IACV. If you lost that gasket or broke it when removing the coil to clean it, then that is more than likely where the vacum leak. Lexus or Toyota dealer will have it. If that does not solve the problem. take another look at the hoses that you might have disconnected. It only takes a minor leak and you can very easily miss the leak. Try the gasket first.

Ok, today I worked on the car a little bit more. The engine will now occasionally run for a little bit longer, more like around 3 to 5 seconds, and then it will die again. This happens every time I use the deflooding procedure, by cranking the car a few times with the gas pedal all the way down on the floor. I also did some diagnosis, and I got code 13 from the check engine light, which has to do with "RPM signal 2." Could someone please help me with this problem?

just a couple of questions. When it starts, can you give it a little gas to keep it running? When you let off the gas, does it die?

If you can do this, then my dianosis is the IAC Valve which you can clean and it will work like new.

does anyone know what error 25 is?

It is lean or rich. I can't remember. Look through the other posts to confirm. It not camshaft. those are 12 & 13

I apologize for my previous post. I guess I was assuming you meant the code reader code 25. You probably meant Lexus code 25. Sorry if I missled you and misinterpreted your post.

Happy Hoidays anyway

does anyone know what error 25 is?

"B" Camshaft Position-Timing Over Retarded (Bank 2) Sounds like timing problem

1999 ES 300

If we remove the battery. Do we need a code to get the radio to power up again?

Our Mazda was like this and it was quite surprising the first time we found out about it.

The code is the last 4 digits of the vin# or key code. I forget :whistles:

The 97,98,99 model es300 does not need the code I don't think. I have disconnected the battery and also removed the radio in my 98 and in my friends 97 when I replaced his radio with one out of a 99. We did not loose the code or have to re-enter one. Maybe if you have a different radio, you might have to re-enter the code. Be on the save side and have the code ready in case you need it.

Hey Everyone new user and first post.

I know this topic may have already been posted, but I need some clarification. I bought a 1998 ES300 about six months ago and now things are starting to break :cries: Today my radio started turning off and on while I was driving. The display works fine and so the CD changer. Are there fuses I can check or is my head unit/amp about to give out. What are my options? Could I go to a radio tech or do I just need to replace the unit? Thanks

It sounds like you have a loose connection from the radio to the antenna. Mine ('98 ES 300) did that to when I first got it. Tracked it down to the connection behind the radio. Does it cut off while sitting still? or only when you are driving, like over rough or bumped roads?

The two most common connections are at the radio and the back window where the antenna is connected.

I think it cuts on and off when I come to a stop or accelerate and kicks on when I make a turn. I don't think I've had it cut off when when I have been sitting still. Where is the connection in the back window and what does the connection behind the radio look like? Thanks.

The antenna wire behind the radio is a single prong cable. When you remove the radio, just push all the cables in to make sure they are seated. You can't miss the antenna cable. The connection to the rear window is located behind the real seat. Look around the window to locate it. I would check the radio connection first. If you loose the connection at the rear window, you will still have the radio but with static and poor reception whereas at the radio, complete silence or very low audiable sound. Good luck and have a happy holiday!!!