Funkdoobiest

2000 ES300. How can I tell?

Is it a bolt-on or is it spot welded?

I know I'm still a noob here, but I'm a trusted member on 3si.org(Mista Grimm, 11 yrs) with a good trader rating and also on numerous other forums. I have any needles you need for your ES(amber), only small needles for the GS(red), and only a couple small and one large for the SC(white/amber). $25 each shipped to lower 48.

I too think it's your intake hose leading up to your throttle body. They all split causing all kinds of idling, dying, and starting issues.

I can get you one used for $120. Just give me your ECU number. It's located behind the glove box. I'm located in Ft. Worth BTW.

Try Ebay. There's a guy there who can cut you a new key with just a pic of your old one if you don't have the code. He cut 2 keys for my 2000 for $40. All I had to do was swap the guts from my old one. He used to have the early keys too, email him and ask if can do yours. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus-Key-R...sQ5fAccessories

I would also check your intake hose to see if it's split open, they all go bad. This caused the same symptoms on my 94 and my buddy's Avalon(same engine and intake hose).

I had my 300ZX Twin Turbo high pressure pwr steering hose rebuilt by a local hydraulics and fittings shop for $35. Took an hr. A rebuilt one on the net cost $250 and you have to send your core in. Before I discovered I had this option I bought a new hose for my 94 ES. It was the long one that goes from the fan to the rack. I don't remember how much I paid, but it was way more than $35. So look into this option with your local hydraulic hose rebuilder. The shop I used does heavy duty commercial hydraulic lines as well as AC and auto applications. They replace all the rubber and crimped fittings but keep the metal lines.