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dashan

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Posts posted by dashan

  1. I did some research on LS400 AC clutch. All you need may be a in-vehicle replacement of bearing of clutch pulley, costs $20

    Hear is the link to the bearing

    http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit12376

    Here is the the in-car removal of the pulley for a different car

    http://bernardembden.com/xjs/comclutch/index.htm

    Here is the removal of the pulley from a denso compressor (the same as that in LS400)

    http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/928-forum/424999-nippondenso-10pa20c-compressor-rebuild-pics.html

    Another denso bearing removal

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrB3pMVD4Cg

  2. I replaced the PS Steering pump in my 95 LS400. The problem I am having is the main supply line will not stop leaking. I don’t know if I’m missing a washer, gasket or something I’m unaware of. What I have now is a copper washer on the pump side and a copper washer on the other side with the bolt through and tightened. Can you tell me if I am missing something or doing something wrong? It is leaking right at the connection to the new PS pump.

    Thank you.

    Where did you buy the new pump?

  3. If you rotated it CW by "x" degrees, you should be able to rotate it CCW by "x" degrees and get it back close to where it needs to be.

    With this piece of information in mind and other suggestions from forum members, I DID put the belt back and each timing mark matched with their partner.

    Thanks

  4. with the belt off, I think you can turn the CAMshaft pulleys clockwise with out any damage. I dont think you can turn it the other way, more than a fraction without damage. line the three up and put the belt on.

    I got this info from others...... none of mine ever moved... so try to get confirmation..

    Lexus should have manual to deal with this situation.

  5. I turned the cam clockwise by accident. Per Landar's method I tried to pushed it back but could not go all the back to original position.

    I think the easiest way for me is to realign all of the three marks of the belt to the marks at engine, respectively. The Crank is currently at TDC+50 degree.

    My goal is: Crank at 0, and the cam marks on the timing belt align with marks on the engine.

    I don't know I should turn each pulley clockwise or counterclock wise.

    Could anyone have experiences please give me a writeup of the procedure (as detail as possible).

    or is there a shop manual on how to do that?

    Thanks

    If you rotated it CW by "x" degrees, you should be able to rotate it CCW by "x" degrees and get it back close to where it needs to be. The crank is at TDC+50 to give you the most clearance between valve and pistons. IOW, its a bit of wiggle room while putting on the new belt and to keep from damaging the valves if(more likely when) the cam snap-rolls due to spring pressure. How far, in degrees, do you estimate that you accidentally rotated the cam? You do realize that the cam will snap-roll? You may only be fighting the spring pressure to return it to original position, which is fine.

    Take a look at this thread. Should be close -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=61372&st=0&p=394040&hl=how_to&fromsearch=1entry394040

    I put the crankshaft back, and confirmed that the Crank pulley was indeed at TDC+50 position.

  6. I turned the cam clockwise by accident. Per Landar's method I tried to pushed it back but could not go all the back to original position.

    I think the easiest way for me is to realign all of the three marks of the belt to the marks at engine, respectively. The Crank is currently at TDC+50 degree.

    My goal is: Crank at 0, and the cam marks on the timing belt align with marks on the engine.

    I don't know I should turn each pulley clockwise or counterclock wise.

    Could anyone have experiences please give me a writeup of the procedure (as detail as possible).

    or is there a shop manual on how to do that?

    Thanks

  7. does any one know where I can get the E.g.g. pipe for my 1990 Ls 400?????????????

    I appreciate in advance any guidance to a good place that's not the dealer ...

    never heard of a EGG pipe, if you mean a EGR, the dealer is the only place I have found them, never wanted a used one.... I replaced them on both of my 97's awhile back.... I now have 99's

    my 97's looked like this: (movie is for size comparison)

    Hi, Mr. Powell,

    Are those two gaskets of EGR pipe the same? Can you confirm part number of each of the two? Thanks.

  8. I recently shipped my 2006 LS 430 Ultra down from Alaska to Washington. When I went to the port to pick it up the PCS warning indicator light was on, the ride height was at full up and I couldn't lower it. I also had a service engine light on, whew! Expecting the worst I took it over to the Lexus dealership and dropped it off. I bought this car as a CPO and am so glad I did as the entire repair bill of over $5400 was completely covered under warranty. The most expensive part was the PCS sensor to the tune of over $4,000. The service department writers could not have been more pleasant and courteous. I would highly recommend this dealership to anyone in the area or traveling through needing assistance. In my experience this was by far the most positive experience I have ever had with a dealership of any kind. Still trying to learn all about the GPS system. Quite an automobile and am very satisfied with it.

    Brett in WA (nee AK)

    Come back and report your feeling when your warranty is over and when you have to pay from your pocket.

  9. Thanks for your suggestions. Bicol-ini, your method worked perfectly. I did not need to remove the tranny support, just the two lower bolts and nuts on each converter, and the Y pipe dropped easily. Don't know how I missed that. After about 50 miles of driving today, my CEL dissapeared and I passed emissions just fine. The aftermarket converter took care of my PO430 code as I had hoped. Thanks

    Which after market muffler did you use? Where did you buy it from?

    The Muffler Shop quoted me $360 for an after market muffler (part only).

    Thanks

  10. If you talking about a bulb in the light assembly on the right rear fender and not on the trunk lid, access to the bulbs is not from inside the trunk. Open the trunk lid and look for two small, round dime size pop off plastic covers on the inward side of the fender mounted tail light assembly. Pop off these two covers, remove the two screws and the entire light assembly should come right out.

    That's a very nice piece of information and it saved me a lot of time. I was going to tear the trunk liner to replace the stop light bulb before I read this information. I did the stop light bulb replacement in less than one minute in a 96 LS400.

  11. I also replaced the strut rods in my 96 LS4 today. The information provided by Landar and jaed2 is very useful, thank you very much.

    I got one new tip to add on how to do the replacement.

    Actually, you don't need to remove the 17 mm nut that is in the place that connects the stabilizer linker and stabilizer bar. I was not able to loose this nut since it was too rusty so I just leave it alone, and did the replacement of the strut rod.

  12. I just removed and replaced the low beam headlight bulb of the driver side of my 96 LS.

    1. Remove the battery.

    2. remove the half-plastic ring on the back of the low bean head light.

    3. release a spring wire that keep the light bulb in place.

    4. pull back and retreat the head light bulb socket.

    5. Remove the head light bulb.

    6. Put the new head light bulb in.

    It is a little tricky, it will take you a few minutes to figure it out.

    YOu don't need to remove the head light lamp.

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