Coolest

:) :D GPS is back. LS 430 2002 No need to drain batteries disconnect batteries or remove ribbon cables. I found this information as a comment on another site and that was the clue I needed to know that I needed a newer disc to fix the problem. A clue for y'all I just started using a good program called Imgburn that I recommend. ----------------- I downloaded a upgrade nav dvd but it was not the right one it loaded and then went haywire everything was Japenese and it said insert the correct disk. Well after trying everything I found on the internet from battery removal from drive to removing all wiring to the drive system take out its battery Ect. Ect. nothing worked I went to the dealer 2/9/08 today to have them fix it for 45.00 I am also out of warranty too so I thought that was a fair price since I screwed up my wifes car The couch was getting really uncomfortable boy was I in the dog house I think I watched to many Home Improvment shows. They told me to bring the original disk so they could reset the system and restart with it . But it would not work they said that you cannot go backwards for instance if you tried to upgrade with version 3.2 from your system disk of 2.1 that it will not reboot backwards so whatever version you upgraded too you has to be at least one step higher as far as versions go for it to fix itself it It so happens one of the techs there just upgraded his system and had a extra disk that was a newer version than mine they tried it and walla it booted just fine they just charged me 45.00 to my disbelief.. lexsus of tulsa a great company So you can do 1 of three things 1. Go buy the latest version 2. Find a friend with the same generation and a newer version than you had. 3. Drive around looking at the japanese You do not have to upgrade you nvram or anything else just follow this an it will work. If I have helped you let me know revrnbob@cox.net --Quoted from Bobman5731

I had the same issue however, this is what I did and it solved the problem. Remove the Gen2/3 ECU from your trunk (or wherever it is on your particular model, my 02 LS430's in the trunk). Carefully remove the faceplate and surrounding screws until you see the circuit board and disk drive. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE DISK DRIVE FROM THE CHASSIS. The key is to drain the ECU battery. You'll see it as a round upright device with yellow edging. You can use either a small xmas tree bulb (with the wires exposed) or 1 ohm resistor. (I used the xmas light), and tape one wire to each side of the battery. The light being lit indicates that you've got a good connection. Don't expect it to be very bright btw but the object is to drain the battery. This could take hours so it's best to do this before you go to bed. If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can measure the beginning voltage (3v DC) and what it needs to be be (<2V DC). Once the voltage is below 2v DC, it can't keep the memory and the o/s will be lost. Put everything back together and reinstall in car. It will go through a reinstall procedure but when it's done, you'll be back to the english version. Note: Even though this will get you back to the default english version. it *cannot* go back to an older version of o/s. The current version of o/s is stored somewhere else so you MUST have the same version of s/w that you were previously using in the drive. Note to self: I spent all last weekend fretting over this. Never, NEVER, EVER mess with those settings again! -aki aki, can you tell me more about the ECU in the trunk? is it the silver unit next to the dvd drive? Take a look at this link. The unit we have in the LS 430 2002 is the Gen 3 last picture: http://lexus-toyota-nav-trouble.blogspot.c...r-nav-unit.html

I had the same issue however, this is what I did and it solved the problem. Remove the Gen2/3 ECU from your trunk (or wherever it is on your particular model, my 02 LS430's in the trunk). Carefully remove the faceplate and surrounding screws until you see the circuit board and disk drive. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE DISK DRIVE FROM THE CHASSIS. The key is to drain the ECU battery. You'll see it as a round upright device with yellow edging. You can use either a small xmas tree bulb (with the wires exposed) or 1 ohm resistor. (I used the xmas light), and tape one wire to each side of the battery. The light being lit indicates that you've got a good connection. Don't expect it to be very bright btw but the object is to drain the battery. This could take hours so it's best to do this before you go to bed. If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can measure the beginning voltage (3v DC) and what it needs to be be (<2V DC). Once the voltage is below 2v DC, it can't keep the memory and the o/s will be lost. Put everything back together and reinstall in car. It will go through a reinstall procedure but when it's done, you'll be back to the english version. Note: Even though this will get you back to the default english version. it *cannot* go back to an older version of o/s. The current version of o/s is stored somewhere else so you MUST have the same version of s/w that you were previously using in the drive. Note to self: I spent all last weekend fretting over this. Never, NEVER, EVER mess with those settings again! -aki I have done this process already and still didn't work. I will try again this time I will leave the light on all week and try to install it back on the weekend. I'll forget about it for now. Thanks.

The following was taken from Moogy on Clublexus and I will be trying it as soon as my brakes come from IRONTOAD.COM thanks. --- First, I want to extend a thanks to Tommy (lexiss_sc400) for answering any questions I had about replacing the brake pads myself. He gave me his phone number and was willing to talk with me on the phone to answer any questions I had. Very cool guy. To open up, my 2004 LS430 now has all new brake pads. I cannot believe how easy it was. By the time I was on the last tire, it was taking me roughly 10 minutes from start to finish (including removing and remounting the tire). The disc breaks "slide out" on the LS430, and that's what makes it so easy (you don't have to remove the brake mounting) - so for anyone who is considering paying a Stealership the ridiculous $600-$700 they're asking, you can do it yourself in roughly an hour (two tops for people who work a bit slower) and $110 (cost of OEM pads). All you need is a good sized flathead screwdriver, a C-clamp, and a small pin-sized screwdriver (for pulling the guide rod pin and removing the sensor 'clamp'). I highly recommend anyone needing a pad replacement do it themselves - it really is that easy. Before you start, remember to take the brake fluid reservoir cap off 1) Remove the Tire 2) Remove the 'pin' on the guide rod that holds the break pads in place - put it where you can easily find out 3) Slide out the guide rod (this will cause the "holder" to pop off) and put it next to the pin (holder too) 4) Remove the pad on the inside of the rotor (slide out like a drawer) 5) *for sensor only* pry off the clamp to the sensor and slide it out (put clamp with pin and rod, etc.) 6) Take the C-clamp and clamp just a little pressure on the brake closest to you to push the pistons back just enough to be able to slide it out 7) Remove the 2nd brake pad 8) Take the large flathead screwdriver (leverage position) and SOFTLY/SLOWLY ush the pistons back as far as they will go (this makes room for the new pads and their size) Be sure you push on the metal part of the O shaped pistons, not on the rubber seal 9) Take the 2 plates that are against the old brake pads and put them on the new brake pads 10) Slide the new brakes (with the plates) back in 11) *for sensor only* put sensor back in and put sensor clamp back on 12) Place the "holder" back on and while holding it, slide the "guide rod" back through (remember head goes towards the back) 13) Put the pin back in the guide rod to secure it 14) Put the tire back on YOU'RE DONE! When you're done with all wheels remember to put the brake fluid reservoir cap back on. ...I think baking a cake is MORE difficult than this... Hmmmm...