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TRD911

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Posts posted by TRD911

  1. I would suggest trying to get the door handle, the part inside that you use to open the door and hope and pray that the cable came off from the handle and not near the actuator part. I would then try and grab one of the cables, one is for lock / unlock and one is to open it. I am sure you have tried this although you did not say. 

    You might be able to take the rear seat out, remove the weather stripping and try to remove the panel. You are in a really tight spot with this and I feel for you. 

    Goodluck

  2. Hi, I own a 98 GS300 and I'm having an problem with the heater. When I activate and the temp gauge is set to 73 degrees on the dash.. the heater will run once the car warms up... but the blower runs then stops..runs then stops.. intermitant at best... ?? even though I'm calling for heat. I was wondering if this sounds like the blower motor or the blower control module. I'm not good with testing the voltage etc... but heard that a blower motor can act up if the brushes are worn. Its just really odd because it will run but then shuts down and then turns on again..the blower is very eratic... Any suggestioins would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks !

    I have a fan motor assembly. sounds more like the control module though I have a non GPS control unit as well.

    BP

  3. I'm getting a loud POP from the front driver's side wheel. It happens when I am turning right and applying the brakes at the same time, like pulling into a parking spot. Ball joint? Tie rod end? I can't remember what makes that poping noise... It's not a "clunk", like metal hitting metal. It's like something is binding and releasing, creating that pop noise, as I turn and stop.

    Sounds like a ball joint.. be careful

    BP

  4. Hello,

    New member here, looking very seriously at a GS400. Wondered how the rear spoilers are attached on these cars, are there holes in the trunk or is it some type of adhesive? Thanks for any assistance.

    Jeff

    Jeff,

    I am assuming that your looking for a car to buy or a spoiler? I have both for sale. My car does not have the spoiler but I have one to match the color of the car.

    The spoilers are bolted on. See the followoing link..

    http://www.clublexus.com/forums/2gen-gs430...tml#post4404474

    BP

  5. Are you using Toyota ATF+4 fluid... if not you need to... other than that it could be a failing solenoid or a bad transmission mount... hopefully someone more knowledgeable can chime in.

    Well.. I think that the 1st to 2nd shift is controlled by the valve body not a solenoid. If I am wrong someone correct me. I am basing this on the 5 speed transmission that they are putting in the Tundra starting with 05. It has a sliding mechinism that might be sticking.

    Use a product that is intended to "flush" the trans like an AutoRX product then like djspawn stated make sure you use the correct fluid. I think that Mobil 1 has fluid that is trated for the Type IV fluid...

    Good luck let us know what you find.

    I am going through this with my Tundra 00 now. I am just now using the AutoRX product.. I am 200 miles into my 1k miles..

    BP

  6. OMG...One of the coldest days of the year and I do not have any heat in my car. I have a 1995 GS300. I noticed over the last month that when I turn the control to turn the heat on, the fan...not sure if it does with the A/C, haven't had it on, it would make this weird noise like a whining type noise when I first turn it on especially if its on the first two settings, when I turn to the 3rd setting it goes away. My husband thought maybe something needed to be clean, not sure what. Anyways....I went to get in my car yesterday and turned the heat on, nothing is blowing out the vents. I can hear maybe like the fan motor humming but nothing is blowing out. What could be wrong? My husband thinks it could be a "clip" not sure what that is. I would appreciate any help. It's too cold...I need heat!! :cries: Thank you!!

    Sounds to me like you have a fan that is locked up. I had a Toyota Tundra that did the same thing. I replaced the fan but after disassembly I think the thing to do would have been to spray the bushings down with WD-40 or some other type of penitrent. Then use a silicon lube to get it to spin.

    If that does not work replace the fan assembly.

    Good luck..

    B

  7. There are many postings on how to replace door actuators but what do you do if the door is locked and you can't get the door open to fix the lock? It is a 2001 GS300 and the child lock is not on (although it can't be checked right now and I have tried to open from the outside). The door lock is stuck in the lock position and if I force it to the unlock position, I still can't open the door from the inside or out (window still opens). When I force it to the unlock position, it does return to the lock position so I'm thinking the linkage is still connected but something is preventing it going to the unlock position.

    Obviously I have to open the door to have a chance to fix it. Does anyone know how to slim jim this door? It might be my only option.

    You might have to try and remove the door panel from the inside. You could remove the bottom section of the seat to get to the bottom of the door panel. I think your in a bit of a difficult situation. If you have never taken the rear panel off I would suggest taking the side that open off to get a fee for where the clips are etc.. I would not "slim jim" it as there are a good number of wires in the door.

    Good luck.

    BP

  8. ok, well i broke the plastic scews or gromets that attach to the door lock actuator. these are the cables that attach to the door panel, and to the lock and handle. The new replacement is $239.99 and around $219.99 online. I have looked at the local yards and they will only sell me a complete door for around $450.00.. well SOL. anyone know an easier fix. sure don't want to spends hundreds on a piece of plastic.

    Pictures please..... ???????????

  9. HI GUYS,

    I NEED HELP WITH MY 2004 GS300.

    I HAD AN ACCEDINT WITH MY LEXUS, SO THEY HAVE TO REMOVE SOME WIRES FOR THE REPAIR PROCESS.

    IT SEEMS THAT THE WORKSHOP COULD NOT RETURN THE WIRING AS IT USED TO BE.

    SO NOW, EVERY THING WITH THE SCREEN ( NAVIGATION, RADIO, TAPE, AND CD CHANGER0 ARE WORKING FINE BUT WITHOUT ANY SOUND COMING FROM THE SPEAKERS.

    I TRIED ADJUSTING THE SPEAKERS FROM THE RADIO UNIT( ON SCREEN) BUT DID NOT HELP.

    THE ONLY SOUND I AM GETTING IS THE NAVIGATION SOUND FROM THE DRIVER SIDE SPEAKER.

    I CHECKED THE WIRING TO AND FROM THE MARK LEVINSON AMPLIFIER, AND IT APEARS THAT THERE IS ONE CLIP/HOLDER WICH IS NOT THERE.

    MOREOVER, THERE IS ON CLIP/HOLDER WHICH IS MISSING( NOT CONNECTED) TO THE TAPE UNIT.

    I GUESS IT WILL BE EASIER TO CHECK THE WIRING ROUTING FROM TAPE UNIT TO THE MARK LEVINSON AMPLIFIER AND THE NAVIGATION UNIT.

    I WILL APPRECIATE ANY HELP ON THIS PROBLEM.:cries:

    A wiring diagram will help. I have one for the 98 to 01. but that will not help you.

    BP

  10. Here are some pictures of what is involved in repairing a leaking evaporator box. Somehow, the price from the Lexus garage seems more reasonable as I look at these. The black seal in the last picture is where the leak occurred. Nothing a $3.00 tube of silicone and fifteen or so hours couldn't fix. :D

    Holy Crap.

    BP

  11. Check engine light came on. Dealer says I need a new catalytic converter (driver side) for about $1000 parts + $300 labor. He thinks O2 sensors are ok.

    The car has about 120,000 miles and the O2 sensors were never changed.

    Various websites suggest that a failed upstream sensor will mess up the cat, so replace the sensors if you need to replace the cat, they suggest.

    So, looking at various oxygen sensor sellers, I see items labeled front, rear, back, upstream, downstream, and left and right.

    The dealer told me I have sensors before and after the cat, but what's up with left and right? Do I have 4 sensors? Are there 2 for each of the

    two cats? Are they really made differently for left and right?

    I want to replace all 4, and also replace the failed cat, which is on the driver side. Can anyone tell me where the sensors are located and

    how to I identify the type I need with respect to left and right, front and back, etc.

    I was thinking of Bosch sensors. Any suggestions on where to buy the cat? I've seen prices around $200.

    I'd love a link to a factory repair guide. Any ideas on that?

    Thanks!

    nydavid21 Welcome to the board. Cats do go bad. The post cat O2 sensor only monitors catalist performance and it will through a code if there the computer thinks there is an issue.

    I have purchased O2 Sensors in the past from a guy on Ebay. The sellers name is evalero1 his email is evalero@hotmail.com. Here is a link to a seach with all of his items. http://search-desc.ebay.com/search/search....o=&saprchi=

    Very easy to deal with and his prices cannot be beat.

    I have a complete manual on CD for the 98-2001 GS I would love to have a bad cat so that I can make a test pipe and get ride of the Cats. Maybe we could swap for a bit..

    Let me know,

    BP

  12. There is a small black electrical part dangling near my radiator fan. It is on a small metal bracket, but the part and the bracket are unattached. It plugs into a two-pin electrical connector. Part number is rubbed off some, but it is something close to Denso 077503-3313.

    Just wondering what this is and trying to find out where it goes.

    pic please

    BP

  13. driving to a NYS inspection station my CEL light comes one, PO161 bank 2 sensor 2... any idea where this o2 sensor is and what sensor I would purchase to replace it. I'm guessing sensor 2 means post cat but can someone confirm. I'm going to order from rockauto.com but I'm not sure which model would be the right one. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

    Look on ebay. bank two is the side what has cylinder number 2 (passenger) and sensor two is the post cat.

    I have bought from evaolu1 I think.. I miss-spelled it but he has lots of o2 sensors. Look for the denso part number on rock auto then search on ebay.

    BP

  14. On my GS 300 I have an O2 Sensor that is out, the code says it is sensor 2 of bank 2. How do I determine where bank 2 is located. I think I have figured out that it is the sensor behind the Cat Converter but which side?

    Thanks

    AJ

    bank two is the side that has the number 2 cylinder. I am pretty sure that it is the passenger side.

    BP

  15. My engine light on my 2001 GS430 is on. When I went to the mechanic he told me the computer say it is PO420 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold bank 1 and 2, and that each convertor would be $1,250 each. My car runs excellent so it was hard for me to believe that it could be bad. Can anyone tell me were to find a cheaper catalyic convertor or can it be the sensors.

    I want one of your old ones to make a test pipe from. I will send it back or buy it from you.

    BP

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