90LS400Lexus

I dont guess it matters in the slightest now... its got a big puddle of fluid under it again and its almost out of fluid and I have not even driven it yet. I guess something else is leaking.

I honestly dont know what else to do. My other car that I am driving to work now gets 10 mpg. :(

I took some new photos and the plugged hole is not leaking now. I think its a hose leaking. I will post the pics soon!

Yours only had 122K miles and it had these problems? Wow. I guess I should not feel as bad since mine has 223K and this is basically the only problems.

I paid a bundle to change the water pump that was leaking, along with changing the timing belt, too. The crankshaft bolt wouldn't come out, so the repair took 2 weeks. I replaced the ACV valve, and spent at least 1G on replacing bulbs, belts, hoses, radiator, pads and rotors, etc. And I used to back the 94 out of the garage, stop, and check if there were leaks on the floor from the P/S pump. Daily. Finally the A/C broke-totally. And I live in Vegas, desert hell. Estimate was $1,500-"Maybe more".

The point is that my pretty Lexus was bought with 97,000 miles. At 122,000 miles, I had it exterminated at the local Datsun dealer. Under the Cash for Clunkers program. My conclusion is that when you have to worry about leaks and noises from your car incessantly, your car is a PIA. And it costs a fortune to fix it. I once thought I'd change the power steering pump myself-OMG, what a pain.

In conclusion, I'd like to thank NC211 for bringing me to reality, and realizing that an old 1st gen Lexus is a great car, but it's like your favorite uncle-A little wobbly, creaky, and headed for the great beyond.

... still getting that shudder though at nearly full turn when in gear.... this only started about 3 weeks ago....

Screens need to be cleaned?

Hi 90LS,

Hope your repair is going well. Do not despair!

Thanks.

Well, he finally got it out and plugged this morning. It rained heavily all day on Friday and Saturday. He said, it was a BIG PAIN to get to and get out from underneath, but it can be done, because he did it. I have not had time to go out and check it yet... he said it wasnt leaking. I will need to drive it a few days though to be sure. Also got the broken nipple on the intake tube fixed and rerouted to the front of the throttle body as I have been told to do. I still want to try to clean the screens on the pump and rack soon... will have to look into how to do that. ;)

We will see. Updates later.

lol. Well as a owner of two early 70s GM cars and many in the past and a fan of these, I know. Thankfully I have not had to deal with that on any of mine except this 72 wagon. It has the "clamshell" gate and that weather seal has leaked, as have the cargo area windows and it has rusted out the spare tire area and the mounts that hold the 3rd seat in place. My moms cousin owns a body shop and I am gonna get him to fix it for me. Other than that, the floors are solid as rock (but the windshield also leaks now, so I keep it undercover). The rear window was resealed on the 73 Pontiac and no other leaks so far and its as solid as a rock, but these are southeast cars, so not exposed to salt - but speaking of vinyl tops, this car has one and its starting to bubble up underneath, despite the top not that old.... I have gotta rip it off and repair I guess. I had a 72 Buick Electra that was 100% rust free, but the back window had started leaking and I had to have it resealed. <_< Dang, I miss that car!

Yes, I fixed many of those rusted out GM back windows. It took them about ten years to figure out if it holds water it's going to rust. I think it was 1977 when they finally came out with the new Impala that water from the back glass drains down the trunk channels.

Vinyl roofs were another rust problem. Very seldom if ever do you see new cars with vinyl roofs anymore.

It seems to me that engineering cars is a lot of trial and error. There are some things you do not think about until the car starts to age.

The chevy VEGA was probably one of the wort cars GM ever built. Very seldom do you ever see a chevy Vega anymore. They have all rusted away. Though they did make a good place for fish to spawn if you threw them in a lake.

But the absolutely worst car ever was a YUGO. These cars were terrible. I was working at a dealership that sold them and these cars were junk. You would roll up the window and the handle would break off in your hand.

They paid their factory workers about a dollar an hour to build them but warranty at the time was about $35.00-$50.00 an hour. YUGO went broke fixing their cars under warranty.

It was so bad, I heard a dealer in Houston had about 20-25 units left and he put them into a warehouse and refused to sell them because he was getting such a bad reputation from the troubles they were having.

JP

I'm really confused as to how this has gone on for five pages. The valve unscrews from the bottom of the pump really easily, I removed mine with the pump in the car, bolted to the engine, then threaded the plug right back in. It's not enough room to climb in and have lunch, but I have reasonably big hands and had no problem doing it.

The valve cover gaskets are equally easy as well, they're both fully accessible from the top, only the intake tube needs to be removed from the passenger side. Replace the spark plug tube seals and valve cover securing bolt washers too while you're in there, they dry out from the extreme heat just as quickly.

And while I agree a Camry or Accord has an easier to service engine, I doubt either of your cars ran that mileage without leaks. You may not have seen them, but I've never worked on a car with mileage over 100k that wasn't leaking somewhere, even a little. Rear main seals begin to leak on virtually every car built at some point but you'll never see the leak as the oil is contained within the bellhousing.

An '85 Buick Century? Come on man, would you really enjoy replacing alternators monthly? The old 2.8L V6 is notorious for eating alternators like they're candy, I knew a guy who kept a spare one with tools and a belt in his '87 Celebrity he got so used to changing it.

You have a very good car, you just need to realize nothing lasts forever. If the previous owner neglected things on it, it's now in your lap. No car is free from some issues, no matter how good it is.

OK... I am back. :) Well in addition to what I have already posted above. Well it went along way for one thing is because I was getting "different" info on changing this on other sites and I didnt know what to do. Some guy even told me that you cant change it from the bottom and another had told me that wasnt the idle-up valve, so yeah, I was confused. ;)

Valve cover gaskets are easy on these cars? I was told it was a PITB and my dealer wanted something like $400 to change them on my old LS, which I didnt do. I may can get the Toyota tech I know do it fairly cheap.

Its true... those old Camrys and Accords may have been seeping something, but nothing like this LS's power steering. I have never had a power steering leak like this on any car I have owned. Also, it may be where they are so much more simple, but I have owned alot of early 70s General Motors cars and have NEVER had a power steering leak, or even a oil leak. Neither do the two I have now. I strongly believe that gaskets and seals used on the engines of the pre-80s cars are better than those on the newer cars.... I am sure they are some exceptions though, but its never been my experience. Maybe in another 10 years one of mine may start leaking. ;)

I never knew that about the Century... I wonder why? We had a 83 Cutlass Ciera (same car, but it had a 3.0L V6) and grandma had a 85 Celebrity (4-cyl) and neither of us had alternator problems... thank goodness. :) I thought the 85 Century also had a 3.0L? Maybe it was optional.

Its true... this is not a perfect car... not a POS either. I guess it was where I was upset, because its frustrating not knowing whats going on. Thankfully I have my other cars that I have to drive until I get this one repaired, so it could be worse. AFAIK, the car was well maintained... it was a 1-owner car and from the records, it was a cared for car. Seems like I bought the car when the expensive things started heading south on it. Now I am suffering the consequences.

Well, all is good now. It was a stormy day, so he didnt have a chance to start on it today and it was thunderstorming when I came home, so I could not either, so maybe soon.. hopefully that will solve the issues.

Thanks again for all of the data and replies.

Honestly, I think 90's just a bit lonely. :whistles:

One things for sure, at over 1600 hits, heeee's popular! :P

lol... well one things for sure, everyone should know how to plug this valve after reading this, instead of all of those other misleading threads I have read elsewhere about this. ;)

lol. Running to work, so no time to reply to all, but the thread went so long because I was being told one thing here and something else somewhere else. ;)

The dim brake light stopped about 2 months ago. So obviously that was not the alternator. It also appears to not have fluid on it.

I'm really confused as to how this has gone on for five pages. The valve unscrews from the bottom of the pump really easily, I removed mine with the pump in the car, bolted to the engine, then threaded the plug right back in. It's not enough room to climb in and have lunch, but I have reasonably big hands and had no problem doing it.

The valve cover gaskets are equally easy as well, they're both fully accessible from the top, only the intake tube needs to be removed from the passenger side. Replace the spark plug tube seals and valve cover securing bolt washers too while you're in there, they dry out from the extreme heat just as quickly.

Next, you mentioned a dim brake warning light. Unplug the fluid level indicator on the brake master cylinder for a few days to see if it quits. Mine did the same thing, it would flicker, light dimly, stay on, all kinds of things, the fluid level sensor is bad. I unplugged it for now, I maintain my car well so I'll know when it gets low, it's easy to just peak in and view it once in a while without seeing the light come on all the time.

I think you're letting it get to you without really thinking a clear plan of attack first. Calm down, take a breath. It's a big engine in a tight space but everything is relatively easy on this car to do, and it's built better than anything GM could ever roll off the line. True, parts are expensive, but gaskets and tune up stuff can be bought aftermarket and everything is laid out to make it serviceable to a point.

And while I agree a Camry or Accord has an easier to service engine, I doubt either of your cars ran that mileage without leaks. You may not have seen them, but I've never worked on a car with mileage over 100k that wasn't leaking somewhere, even a little. Rear main seals begin to leak on virtually every car built at some point but you'll never see the leak as the oil is contained within the bellhousing.

An '85 Buick Century? Come on man, would you really enjoy replacing alternators monthly? The old 2.8L V6 is notorious for eating alternators like they're candy, I knew a guy who kept a spare one with tools and a belt in his '87 Celebrity he got so used to changing it.

You have a very good car, you just need to realize nothing lasts forever. If the previous owner neglected things on it, it's now in your lap. No car is free from some issues, no matter how good it is.

And please don't ask stupid questions like "are your highbeams on?" or, "is the switch on?" I know how they work. They just no longer do it.

lol.

Well, one of mine is out, but its because of a blown out bulb. <_<

I have been having trouble with my 92 Lexus LS 400. The car keeps dying and stoping. There are several lights constantly on in the dash: battery, brake, tail lights, house for coolant and could be more. I have also had a bearing replaced and moaning noise was coming from my power steering, but after not driving it a few days...it stopped.

If anyone has any solution as to why my car keeps going dead and these lights are constantly on or why the power steering had what appears to be a moaning noise coming from it, feel free to comment. btw, i've had the power steering pump serviced before.

Before someone else says it and I know they will... have you checked the wiring harness at the trunk hinge for damaged wires? Notorious issue on these cars and caused alot of quirks.

Wow, sounds like you know your bodywork. I have some rust repair (caused from leaky windows that the early 70s GM cars were known for!) that I need you to conduct on my 72 Chevy wagon I am restoring. :) lol. Seriously, its not bad, but I know nothing about these things. Nothing new though. lol.

Anything can be fixed given enough time, money, parts and labor. It's up to the one dishing out the money to decide whether it is worth it or not.

I have fixed cars in much worse shape than KF's LS.

Back in late 1984 I had to repair a brand new 1985 Audi 5000 that was T-Boned in the side. It was the biggest job I ever had with 160 labors hours just for bodywork. Not painting also, just bodywork. The paint was probably another 25-30 hours labor.

When I set the car up on the Blackhawk Bench alignment system there were 21-24 alignment points for this car. Only 3 of them fit. This car was a mess. I worked on this car a solid 2 weeks.

This car was so new they weren't even making some of the replacement parts yet. We ordered the Lt RR door inner trim panel and they said they would not be making them until February of 1985. So when the car was finished, the man left with his old broken trim panel.

About mid-February we got the part in and it was stamped "Feb 3, 1985" on the back of the trim panel.

One time I even had to change a firewall on a BMW. When brand new expensive cars get hit hard, they just don't total out.

One time I had a brand new Honda Accord hit hard in the rear. I had everything cut off of the rear of the car except the Lt RR frame rail which I repaired. The rear panel was gone, both 1/4's were gone, the rt inner and outer wheel housings were gone, the packing shelf was gone, even the floor was gone all the way up to the back of the front seats. I was holding up the roof with a pole.

The customer came in to look at her car and she just broke down and cried. :(

JP

Thanks. Well, mine is both. It initially started out as only a minor external leak when I bought the car in November of 2007... it was OK until winter 2008... it leaked more fluid in the winter on colder days... if it was warm, there were no issues. Then summer 09 it started leaking even when hot outside, then only a couple of months ago, it started smoking when I would start it... then it got worse and worse, then the external leak got worse as well.

IN FACT, it seems like then the smoking started, is also when I noticed heavier leaks under it.

Yes, we will block it off and go from there... and see what happens.

Well, he was gonna take it off today, but I had not confirmed with him that was the idle-up valve. I sent him the photo (his reply was "its gonna be a sob to get off of there") lol, but he is gonna try tomorrow. Well see. I hope that also stop my leak. I cant imagine what else could be leaking.

So... does the idle-up valve not cause external leaks?

Looks like the "crush zones" really done their job! The back window didnt even shatter!

Thanks Jerry and thanks for the confidence in my car. :) Well, I copied and pasted your info in an email to my dad... he is going to try to do it for me tomorrow... I hurt my back the other night when I was under the car.

What had me confused is that someone on the other Lexus site has told me totally different than what you have told me. They said that was not the idle-up valve (what I had in red) and that it had to be accessed from the top and I had to remove the radiator hoses, fan, fan clutch, move over the alternator, etc and it had me so confused. Then someone else told him that they did it the way you said, so we are going that route. I am just going to use the 14x1.5 plug as recommended. I guess it should be lined with teflon tape or something?

Another thing that has me confused is that I thought the idle up valve was ALSO causing the external leak (dripping) under the car. I had no idea that was a totally seperate issue. I have no idea whats causing that if its not the idle-up valve.

----------------------------------------

I guess I just feel the car is a POS because I have had other higher mileage and older cars that have not had these issues this car has had (motor mount replacements are costly - it needs those, valve cover gasket replacements are costly and difficult to change... it needs those too. These cars are complex and parts are expensive and certain things on these cars are so hard to do, where they are so easy on others.

It just seems this car needs more than other cars I have had at this age and mileage. My 1990 LS400 had nearly 260K when I sold it and I didnt have the power steering problems with it that I have with this LS. Maybe they had been addressed by the PO already? I did have radio problems with that car though. Mechanically, this 1991 I have now is fine... engine and transmission are sound... no leaks or oil burning, etc. I do have that lifter noise starting though. Maybe its not a POS and its my anger talking.... because I am really frustrated over this. I have owned over 50 cars since the early 90s and I have never had one frustrate me as much as this.

Its not that I dont want to, or I am not servicing the car... I am.... I am doing a little as I can. I just replaced the tranny mount (replaced that ourselves) and recently the fan bracket bearing replaced.... that costed me a fortune and seems like its one thing after the other. After this PS deal, it will then need valve cover gaskets and lifters/valves adjusted, then engine mounts and soon front rotors turned. Its not that I dont want to do the maintainence... its just I cant afford all of this costly stuff - I have three other very reliable cars but insurance and gas is costly (and I cant part with those cars). Maybe I was foolish to buy another LS and should have stuck with a 1985 Buick Century. ;) I just want to get this car up to par for my mom, as she wants it... why, I dont know. Sure its more attractive than her 1997 Oldsmobile, but personally, that car is alot cheaper to maintain and service.

I have two nearly 40 year old GM cars that dont leak a drop of anything and I only recently had to replace the original valve cover gaskets.

I guess I should have stuck with my 1993 Camry or 1991 Accord.... never no leaks with those, but I know the 4-cyl Camrys had bad oil leak issues. I had a 93 Camry with 220K, no leaks, a 1991 Accord with 212K, no leaks.... even a 1985 Mercedes with 280K, but it did end up having to get a new seal in the steering box.

The older LS400s had PS leak issues... all have had or will soon have. Poor design. IMO, there should have been/be a recall.

Thanks for the info... we will try that replacement and see what happens, but like I said, I think I am losing most of my fluid from wherever the external leak is and I dont know what it is.... like I said, I thought the idle up valve was causing that too. <_<

The item circled in red is the idle up valve. It was sending PS fluid to your intake manifold. It also looks like it has an external leak.

Here is what I posted earlier about changing the valve:

I suppose you mean the under engine cover or the splash shield. Yes, it needs to come off and then the valve can be reached from the bottom. You will need a 17mm open end wrench. You might need a short (stubby) wrench, a long one might not be able to access it. I used both. It was too tight to break loose with the stubby and I was just barely able to get the long one in there to break it loose and then used the stubby the rest of the way.

When you take the valve out, the fluid will pour out of the hole so be sure to cover your alternator with a piece of plastic and be sure to put a catch bucket underneath.

I have never blocked one before so I do not know if you need some type of special bolt or just one that fits the hole. If the fluid is actually leaking from your valve, then this might fix your problem.

But I recommend putting it back like factory if at all possible.

It is not that difficult to do. You do not need to pull anything else loose. When you get it out, match the threads with a bolt of the same size and plug up the hole. I have never blocked one before but it should work.

Jerry

By the way, your LS is not a POS. It is a car that requires maintenance like any other car. The longer you delay to do maintenance the more problems build up. Cars get old, they require maintenance, that is just the way it is.

The 1st Generation LS400 was a very reliable trouble free car, but ANY car, Rolls Royce, Mercedes, BMW all require maintenance. Just because you do not want to do the maintenance does not mean your car is a POS.

ANY car nearing the 200k mark is going to need some maintenance. You have a good car.

I have a 91 and I am looking for another one.

In the last year I have changed:

distributor coil

brake rotors

lower ball joints

outer tie rods

air control valve

transmission mount

engine mount

plugs

wires

rotors and caps

climate control LCD

repaired speaker

It still needs the upper control arm bushings replaced, the rear control arm bushings replaced, a paint job, timing belt, crank and cam seals and numerous other things and I do not feel my car is a POS.

The Lexus LS 400 is a very comfortable, smooth driving, dependable car. You can't get much more dependable than a Toyota or Lexus.

Jerry

Thanks. My dad said he WOULD help me tackle this tomorrow if I could email him some info on how to remove and plug this idle up valve.

Can ANYONE please tell me, or give me a link with step by step instructions and tools needed to remove and plug the idle up valve on a gen 1 LS400? I searched google and found two, but neither have anything to do with the idle up valve. Anyone have photos of the actual valve? Seems like what I thought was it, is not it at all.

Thanks so much!

fwiw, this is what I thought had to come out and be plugged... it appears to be leaking here.... (circled in red)

as you can see though, its messy above that too... unless the air has blown it up???

My guess is you have two problems. The original white smoke is caused by the ACV leaking fluid that eventually gets into intake manifold and creates the white smoke. That wouldn't create the wet mess you have in engine compartment (unless vacuum hose is leaking down there). Then if you are pretty sure its leaking at the pump then putting in a new PS pump would presumably solve the leak (probably seal on main pump shaft is gone) and the ACV (since you'll get a new one in the rebuilt pump)

I think you said that was about $130 for rebuilt pump. That’s not too bad if you can install it yourself or beg a friend to help..

Thanks. Well, I was under the impression (or I have been told my others) that a bad idle up valve causes the PS fluid to be sucked in the intake, as well as external leaks under the car... does the ICV valve (or whatever the piece of crap is called) itself not allow fluid to leak out under the car when it goes bad?

Seems like there are so many different opinions on Lexus power steering systems I dont even know if I am coming or going.

May have to go the new pump route, then block the ICV on it, but if its the rack (like someone else said), then I am out. Out bigtime. I cant afford a new PS pump, have it installed, then another $$$ for a steering rack.

As others mentioned, you may be able to fix yours.. hopefully you can.

Good luck!

ok so this weekend will be the tranny mount replacement...then i got to check my motor mounts to see if they need replacement too...i've got 235,000 on my 93 ls400.. looks like a pain in the as* to do the motor mounts!

The engine mount is... which is why everyone hates changing them.

I may have a used (almost brand new) tranny mount soon if I part my car out. I paid $62 for it + tax, but will sell it much cheaper.

OMG... I was so sure it was the idle up valve.. at least thats what I have been told. Why do you suspect its something else... because of all of the fluid?

I am so confused now. All I know is that the fluid appears to be coming from under the pump... because I had let the car set for a few days and as you can see in the photo that fluid "drip" is right under the pump area... I dont think the steering rack would cause the drip that far up would it? I thought it was further back. All else I know to do is get that Toyota mechanic I know check it and get more money out of my savings (that was supposed to go for my surgery) and get him to fix it, then I will sell it. I dont want my mom in this POS. Now I wish I had of taken it into cash for clunkers because thats what it is.

If its the rack, I am screwed. I cant afford that... as mentioned, I have a small loan against the car... about $2300 owed. I cant get that much for it parting it out. I am really depressed now. :( Maybe a tree will fall on this $3200 (what I paid) POS.

Oh well. <_<

Thanks for the replies.

...I am not dealing with it anymore. Im done. ...

You've come too far to quit now!!! You're making good progress.

I reread most of the thread from the start. It seems what started as a white smoke in exhaust caused by fluid leaking by the idle up valve (also called air control valve (ACV)) in the PS pump has morphed into something more. Just fixing the ACV (either by replacing the valve in the PS pump or blocking/plugging the lines to the intake manifold) won't fix the leak.

Now you have the engine pan off the bottom can you see where this leak is? Given the amount of fluid present there must be a sizeable leak either in the pump, the hoses or the steering rack. If the pump is leaking in addition to a faulty ACV then maybe its better to replace the PS pump with a rebuilt one (as you noted early on in the thread). If the leak is a hose that is straight forward to fix. If it’s the steering rack then you might be creeping into the too expensive to bother zone.

The way I see it:

1. Faulty idle up valve (also called air control valve (ACV)), and leaking PS Pump -> install rebuilt pump (with new ACV in it)
   
2. Faulty ACV and leaky PS hose, -> plug ACV lines to intake manifold and PS pump and replace broken PS hose/line(s)
   
3. Faulty ACV and leaking steering rack -> don't fix and sell the car for parts
   

You've come too far to quit now!!! You're making good progress.

I agree, but I understand your frustration.

I think you need to back up a little and try to determine exactly where the fluid is coming from. Get some rags and try to dry things up as best you can from the PS pump down. Once dry, start the car for a little while and see if that allows you to see where the fluid is coming from. It's hard to know with everything so wet in there. Before you can start doing anything, you have to know where the fluid is coming from.

Hang in there, the car is up on the stand and the bottom is off. You're on your way.

Now I am being told by someone else on the other LS site that its not as simple as removing like this from underneath without removing alot more stuff (fan, pulleys, etc) and its not even the thing I thought had to be removed. I am so confused now. After someone else on there said otherwise that all was needed was to remove the underpanel, and unscrew the valve and screw in the plug... all I had to do was simply remove the valve from underneath. I cant tell you how much this frustrates me. I have been told so many different stories on other sites about this valve, I dont even know what to do.

I am not dealing with it anymore. Im done.

The only other thing is dig out my savings account and get the Toyota tech I know do it - then sell it. If mom wants it, she better get it. If not, I am selling it. I am over this car.

Thanks for all of the replies.

WOW! Looks totalled! I think it would cost a fortune to repair that... may be cheaper to buy another LS, or even a Camry or Accord. Thats what I would do if I crashed mine like that with only liability. My car is a 1991, but I still have full-coverage insurance on it, because I have a small loan against it, but even if not, I would at least have comp on it too.

Sorry to hear of your misfortune.... thank goodness no one was hurt.

I am assuming those two hoses that can be seen above the alternator are what get removed and the plug under them? Should we completely remove those hoses or just let them stay there? Something else hold them in place?

nosey cat.... :)

new fan bracket bearing can be seen.... :)

Hi 90LS, Sorry you're having so much trouble with you car. I think the advice to tap it and thread another fitting may work. Also, to get out the broken piece from the rubber end you could probably use a hot air blower or something similar - like a blow drier to soften the rubber before trying to pull the broken piece out. Probably should have done that before trying to disconnect it in the beginning. That's not helping the present situation though.

If you do try to tap the broken end, you may want to take off the entire plastice piece to do it because you will wind up with plastic crap inside there andyou don't want that stuff getting into your engine!

HTH

Thanks. Yeah, thats what we are going to do. As the photos show below, I started on it this evening, but it was getting dark. I managed to get the car on the ramps and removed the under engine cover. I was/am amazed at the mess under there. Fluid everywhere and even splattered up in the wheelwell on that side and even has leaked out on the inside of the RF tire, as the photos below show! It may not be visible, but it appears to me that at least from what I can see that the fluid has not been running down on the alternator, as it dont have any visible fluid on it and I think if it was leaking that bad and running down in it, that it would be coming out of the bottom? Maybe now that I am getting this now and plugging that valve, I will be OK. I was having a dim "brake" warning coming on and someone said that was a sign of early alternator failure, but the light went out 4 months ago and had not done that again. I am not sure though if that means there is still not fluid in the alternator, but it looks like there is not. I guess I should take a bag and cover that side of the alternator before removing that valve? How do those hoses come off? Clamps? Well, here are the MESSY photos and I will post more as we progress! Ugh, when I started the car, I had forgot to plug that valve on the intake and the car would hardly even run. I plugged it best I could temporarily and the car sputtered and bucked, but I finally got it on the ramps.

Car is on the dirty part of the driveway where my dad does his stonework, so the mess will be OK.... lol.

sprayed this down with degreaser.....

even when I got it on the ramps, it was still gushing fluid...

I am also really confused because that one nipple is broken on the intake area. I cant get a hose hooked to it now and dont know what to do.... :(

I have not even got the car on ramps yet to get under there to see how hard it is to remove the valve.

I also know I should clean the screens, but every site I find says something different.

I may have to just take it to that Toyota mechanic I know and let him do it and shell out more $. <_<

This is really frustrating. POS car.

Here is where I am at now...

nasty thing.... ( I have never owned a car that leaked power steering, but if I did, this one would still take the cake!)

my old Pontiac in the background there is almost 38 years old and dont leak anything.

here is the bypass hose...

We are going to plug that other part thats broken tomorrow properly.

Also, the dang mosquitoes are so bad, you cant stand being outside!

Thanks. I will try to check them. I am about at the end of my rope. I am not mechanically inclined, but I am going to try to do what I can. I cannot afford to pay a mechanic a fortune to repair this car.