wwest

I would sincerely appreciate it if the "powers that be" would now go ahead and ban me, so there is no "temptation", permanently from the LOC.

Please.

Enough is enough.

My current password is:

c210

Anyone, other than moderators, who feels I should not be allowed to post at LOC.....

I am considering a GS450h but a little concerned about winter driving in the snow (Montreal, Canada) since the GS450 h is a RWD with a lot of power , by law it’s mandatory to have 4 snow tires installed on the vehicle for the winter period , is it enough to be able to maneuver in the snow with the help of VDIM and the Snow Mode switch?

Thanks

IMNSHO the GS450h is 'WAY over-powered and a horrible prostitution of the use of the HSD concept. I am normally an advocate of RWD (as opposed to the "other" choice) but it seems to me that the absolutely STELLAR level of low-end torque provided by the GS450h's electrics would be really hard to tame absent a very quick reacting TC, Traction Control, system.

So be prepared to either switch TC off or spend a lot of time "feathering" the throttle in attempting, I suspect mostly unsuccessfully, to defeat TC.

I also consider the RX400h just another prostitution of the HSD concept, TOO much power, unwarranted power, for the platform. So I would recommend(***) the RX400h F/AWD model even though it is mostly FWD, and even with F/AWD remains most definitely FWD biased, be a better choice for adverse wintertime roadbed conditions.

Should you go ahead with a GS450h purchase I would recommend NEVER traveling without tire chains on board in the wintertime and not hesitating even briefly to install them when encountering adverse roadbed conditions. With the GS450h's dramatically HIGH level of low end engine/drive torque, even with a good, even excellent, set of winter treads the onset of wheelspin (even considering a "snow" mode, engine/electrics "derating" activation) will often be so quick and sudden you will be forced to have TC active at all times.

*** The RX400h can only have tire chains installed on the front. Raising the potential, by Lexus own admission, for loss of directional control substantially. Adding 1.5 inch wheel spacers at the rear will allow the use of most types of tire chains at the rear first, SAFELY, and a second set at the front if the need should arise. I added 1.5" wheel spacers, 17X8 wheels, and wider tread tires all around on my 2001 F/AWD RX300. Slightly wider "stance" improves stability overall.

my wifes car has 140,000 miles on it and its paid for so i have to try to fix it myself before taking it elsewhere - tried to trade it before all this happened for a civic and they hurt my feelings so we have decided to drive it until the wheels fall off but im afraid that may be soon if i cant fix it - i have read other topics on this problem but have not solved it yet - OK it started out by check engine light coming on - this was the 171 code so i bought a O sensor -

You could have stopped this dissertation right here....

Until the O2 sensor code is cleared via replacing the sensor all else is a completely UN-educated GUESS.

naturally it was for the one just before the catalytic converter and not the one on the exhaust manifold - so i got the wrong one - anyhow i didnt put it on yet - then the transmission wouldnt go into od and i knew it was low - after this i drained all the transmission fluid twice and refilled with the correct t-4 fluid - reset the light and it did fine for about 20 miles - then light came back on and it wouldnt go into 3 or maybe OD - it was taching about 3000 on interstate - anyhow i tried cleaning the maf or map sensor just behind the air cleaner with the spray cleaner and that did work for about another 20 miles then light came back on - dont know where to go from here - the transmission shifts and sounds acts fine until light comes on and you get out on the road -the fluid was dark but no pieces or hunks on the plug or in the fluid -

i have not changed the O2 sensor yet so that may be the problem and causing the transmission not to shift

EXACTLY...!!!!

- i do believe however that the transmission was low before all this started because it does have a small leak but i never checked it until the car wouldnt pull itself in the driveway - then i checked it and it was low -

i got the right fluid put in it

How low....??

and it did fine then - anyhow this is where im at now - anyone have any suggestions before i take it to a real mechanic ??? thank you for any help here

If your's is a '99 or '00 RX300 with 140,000 miles and the transaxle hasn't yet been overhauled then be prepared to shell out ~$4500.00, if not now then soon.....

'01 to '03 RX300 then only "soon".

I have a 2001 RX300 with 128K miles. I am clueless when it comes to automobiles. I am experiencing an acceleration hesitation problem. It happened the first time when I had driven all day looking at real estate. I knew I was low on oil so I stopped, added a quart and the problem went away.

I like to think "this" recovery had more to do with the ignition off period than the low engine (??) oil.

Now two months and an oil/filter change later the problem has come back. When the car has been run for about an hour I experience a similar accleration hesitation problem decribed in this forum. No matter what speed I am going 0, 40 or 60 MPH when I accelerate over 2000 RPM I experience a loss of power/acceleration followed by a "sling-shot" move where the power comes back just to go back to sling-shot again. When I pull over and stop and start the car the problem goes away to return an hour later. Any advice?

Given the history, forum posting history, for the 2001 RX300 if mine had that kind of mileage I'd be overhauling the transaxle.

Have you checked the ATF fill level or condition..??

ATF should be mostly clear/transparent and light pink in color.

With the ignition switched on but no engine start make sure all the instrument panel diagnostic lights/icons illuminate.

There is a huge amount of posts on tranny problems, Please note maintenance, maintenance , maintenance, every 15k miles a fluid drain and fill may help....Just my two cents from one that has been there and most vocal about the failures...

Personally I'm ignoring the 15k "rule" in favor of just watching out for a change in the ATF condition, appearance and odor/smell.

At only ~40,000 miles mine was dark and smelled burned.

I'm now at 70,000 miles and the ATF doesn't yet quite meet my drain and refill criteria.

so yesterday i was driving my car and it was runnin a ok just fine and then when i put it back into my garage and came back out later that day and tried to go somewhere it wouldnt shift the button on the shifter wouldnt go all the way in. i tried using the shiftlock release but it didnt work ne ideas? 94 ls400

In the early models you had to use a small object, say a flat blade screwdriver and press down really hard on the shift lock release if the brake light circuit solenoid doesn't release it automatically.

Hi, all!

Haven't had to post too much since (thankfully) problems with my LS are few and far between!

I noticed this evening as I drove home that my normal "evening" setting of 75 degrees didn't seem as warm as usual. Bumped it up to 80 degrees and seemed the same. Didn't notice heat until it got to the HOT setting (86 degrees, I believe). At that point it was blazing hot! Let it run for a few seconds, took it down one degree and seemed to blow cooler again, with what seemed to be little or no heat, just cool. It's only happened this one time and I will see if it persists tomorrow. Outside temp was between 68-70 degrees.

Just thought I would put it out there to see if any others have/had this type of problem.

Thanks!

JIM

I my experience you seem to be describing normal, perfectly normal LS HVAC operation.

The OAT, Outside Air Temperature, Sensor is in the HVAC control loop. With it already fairly warm outside the system isn't very likely to provide really warm (discomforting for many of us.) airflow. Except, as you noted, at EXTREME settings in relation to the (already warm, warmish) temperature of the incomng FRESH airflow.

And then if the sun was shining brightly (it does that in the evening a lot during our long summer days) the HVAC's solar radiation sensor will even be in the act to "tone down" the level of system "heating".

Obviously we have differing opinions about global warming. I don’t thing either one of us will change our differing opinions about global warming and debating the issue on this site may get us into debating non car related issues which may not be allowed on this forum. There are many reasons to own a hybrid and not every hybrid owner got one because of G/W issues. I don’t understand why it should matter to a person that does believe in G/W why someone made the choice to get a hybrid, the fact that someone is utilizing the technology regardless of motive should be reason enough to consider it a positive result. I liken the comment misuse of hybrid to something a misguided animal rights person may say in a situation where a person reveals that they gave up eating meat because of heart and cholesterol problems, but the made up animal rights person in the story gets upset because he didn’t give up eating meat to save animals. The bottom line is the regardless of reason or motive the end result is the same, in one case less animals are killed and in the other case a cleaner technology is used. In my opinion the end result is what matters the path to get there is unimportant.

But I don’t understand how utilizing cutting edge technology could in any way be abusing hybrid technology.

Prior to the RX400H I drove a 4 wheel drive high output V8 engine Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland that got half the MPGs. I needed a vehicle that would be able to carry a lot of stuff, sometimes large objects, perform well in snow, and would be large and comfortable so it would not aggravate my physical problems. The RX400H was able to do just about everything the Jeep did while consuming half

[i was getting between 30 to 33 MPG around town with the RX, the Jeep got 12 to 14] the gas.

But wouldn't have been even nicer if that had been an RX225h and as much as 40 MPG in city stop and go traffic..?

I consider this to be a good thing. I don’t understand what you consider an abuse of hybrid technology, maybe you can explain. Be when you explain please keep in mind that people’s needs and requirements differ and although the Prius may be a great option for some people it won’t fulfill everyone’s needs.

In the past 3 years I have spent time living and owning houses in NY, TX and SC. I sold all my houses except for the one in SC so I no longer need a snow car and I don’t need to move around a lot of stuff so I got rid of the RX400H and replaced it with the GS450H. Again I needed something comfortable enough to drive for the two to three trips I make every year but wouldn’t aggravate my physical problems. I have tried driving a smaller car to see if wouldn’t bother me, but every time I rented a small car to drive 50 to 60 miles to the airport it bothered me. There is no way I could sit in a small car for over 1,600 miles [800+ miles to NY and 800+ miles back to SC].

I am not going to apologize for owning a car that has many features solely for the comfort of the driver

You can get all those "features" with a GS350......

because I got in injured while performing a sworn duty enforcing the law and keeping the public safe and there isn’t an hour of the day that doesn’t go by where I am not in constant pain.

So if I can afford to own a car with a smoother ride, more comfortable seat I feel I have earned the right and paid for it with my blood so I am not going to worry about the abuse of hybrid technology.

Other than 0-60MPH bragging rights what does a GS450h give you in luxury features, comfort, quietness, etc, that a GS350 would not..???

Or even better, a GS250h..??

So rather than abusing technology I am able to own a vehicle that is comfortable without burning as much gas as a normal luxury car.

"without burning as much gas as a normal luxury car."

Maybe my '92 LS400 isn't "normal" but with only 248HP it gets ~25 MPG hwy and has all the "luxury" appointments and conveniences I could wish or want for.

I owned a MY 2000 GS300 for a year or so and found it just as luxurious and "fun" to drive as most any car in that class.

Can you imagine the STELLAR FE that could be achieved by limiting the GSh's HP/torque equivalence to, say, 300..?? Or given the size/weight in relation to my 248HP LS400 why not a GS250h...??

Just what additional "thrill" do you get with a GS450h that you wouldn't have with a GS250h were it available...??

As you may have already noted "this" is a little like the "pot calling the kettle BLACK"..

But my '01 911/996 C4 was "purpose purchased", and that was NOT as a daily driver. It has just reached 20,000 miles and that includes 2500 miles on the Autobahn and two trips from the east coast to Seattle. But then while it is race track "qualified" it still gets ~25 MPG.

Can you tell us, would you mind telling us, the mixed and overall MPG for the GS450h..??

Well pumps makin all kinds of noise so I bought a new one and removed plastic mldings from pass side of motor and mas air sensor, belt, etc removed line from pump res and two bolts located on a bracket that mounts to rear of pump.. Well pump doesn't budge what am I missing... Anyone have a walk through on how to remove this pump,any help is appreciated,thanks...

Have a look from underneath....

Car: '04 LS430 Ultra Luxury

Mods: Datasystem Air ride controller

Please pay close attention to the days/timeline listed as this could get confusing ;)

Keep in mind that this happened w/ my Datasystem height setting controller on NORMAL MODE , so the car was at stock height. (it may also be important to note that a day before all of this happened, I left my ignition in "accessory" the Friday night before and drained the battery so it had to get jump started the following Saturday morning.)

On father's day(Sunday), I hit a protruding manhole in the road due to construction and immediately my a warning to check my PSC appeared. It stayed on for the remainder of the day and I made plans to bring it into the dealer that following Friday. The next day(Monday) the light dissappeared and would occasionally come back.

The day after THAT (Tuesday), in addition to the PSC, a warning to check my VSC appeared along with the Check Engine Light and 'TRAC OFF' light.

On the days leading up to my scheduled dealership service for Friday, the lights would periodically come on and off.

The day I brought it into the Lexus dealer (my friend and fellow enthusiast is a cert. tech and the car is still under warranty) he attributed the Datasystem AIR Suspension controller as a possible culprit, stating that it could interfering with the speed sensor which could throw some lights. I've had this controller on my car for about two months with NO PROBLEMS whatsoever, so strange that any problems should appear RIGHT AFTER hitting the manhole.

I mentioned the fact that I drained the battery a couple nights prior to the incident b/c i've heard of a weak batter messing with the electronic sensors on LS430's. I've also noticed that one of the mirrors folds a little slower than the other when shutting off the car and when I'm on bluetooth, the phone number that shows up on the navi flickers now and then. Could the battery be the culprit? But shouldn't the battery be recharged from the alternator...especially after about a week?

Has anyone w/ an LS430 had this many lights come on at once?

Thanks in advance! Cheers!

The only "light" you should be interested in, focussed on, initially, is the CEL, all the others are simply defaults with the CEL on.

The VSC "alone" could very well be the result of a stearing system misalignment from the manhole cover. If the stearing wheel isn't centered when the vehicle is going straight forward.....

And a "weak" battery can/will most definitely result in random faults "popping" up, sometimes many all simultaneously.

With the first sign of that kind I almost always swap in a battery from one of our other vehicles and if that solves the problem it time for a trip to Costco....

are u talking about the expansion valve located under the dash on the passenger side? part number....88515-50060? because the evap is the reciever drier and it looks like an aluminum bottle.....

Was this intended to be "addressing" me...??

"evap is the reciever drier..."

This statement "loses" me completely.

Sorry about that... writing too fast ... but yes. The 40% loss is based off conversion (heat source to steam to generator to transmitted source). Whereas locally located photo cels are more efficient. So with fossle fuel costs, it only makes sense to me ... to tell the dealer (when (s)he asks what model I want) the next vehicle I buy, will only have an electric motor ... whether it's a hihy, an RX, or one of those little 'think' EV's which are schedueled to come out next year (62mph for over 100 miles ... woo hoo!).

According to EPRI the OVERALL efficiency of the US commercial power grid is only about 40%

The availability of nuclear power generation will not change that aspect, only a reduction in the emissions level. More accurately stated, a reduction in atmospheric emissions in trade for an increase in radioactive material storage and disposal problems.

I think we'll see a move to CNG powered vehicles long before electric only.

Is it normal for my battery to ALWAYS stay at 3/4 charged? I've been driving freeway a lot lately using mostly the gas engine, so I guess it should give enough time for my battery to fully charged.

Please share your experience. If it's not normal, what should I do?

While the Toyota HSD system is fully optimized, FULLY optimized, for use/driving in city stop and go traffic, that is often not the case for freeway use/driving.

Absent the ability for the use of regen capability to recover energy otherwise lost to heat there is little reason to optimize the HSD system for freeway use, it will always come out slightly on the negative side when compared to non-hybrid vehicles of roughly overall equivalence.

Even simply cruisng along on a level roadbed at a relatively constant speed the CVT's electric motor(s) must remain powered, consuming power, althought the ICE is running continuously and IS the main driving force. Absent this uniqueness of the CVT the ICE could be the ONLY driving force for freeway use and therefore the hybrid battery would not have need to be recharged at all.

It appears that our prius "waits", intentionally waits (in hopes a regen capability/opportunity arises..??), to begin using the ICE to recharge the hybrid battery until the charge level gets fairly low. About 5 charge cycles between Seattle and Portland, 175 miles or so, seems to be the norm.

IMMHO the HSD system should have a mode switch so I can "tell" it that for the next "n" miles there will be no likelihood of/for regen opportunity.

Only then could the system be more fully optimized for freeway use.

I don't know much about Lexus but most other first year cars are plagued with problems. MY RX400H has been trouble free for the 17,000 miles I have driven it. I picked up the GS450H last Saturday but I only have less than 40 miles on it because it came to SC from NY on a trailer hooked to the back of a Pensky truck. I loved the RX but the GS is much much better. Since you have more knowledge about Lexus I will take your word for it the Lexus isn't plagued by first year bugs, but I still feel it is better to wait a while to get a new model. I just have this feeling that GM is stirring up interest in a electric Volt type car while Toyota / Lexus is just sitting back and waiting for the right moment to announce their own version of the Volt. But in every instance I can recall where a new very desirable model comes out the supply is short and the dealers add thousands to the list price. That is why I think that June of 2011 will be the best time to trade in the old lease for something new.

PS I know there is no way there will ever be a break even or payback point on the added cost of the hybrid, and I don't believe global warming is cause by man, I just love cool new technology and the GS450H is the ultimate in cool.

No, the GS450h, as is the LS600h, and to a lesser extend the RXh and HH, or an absolute ABUSE of hybrid technology insofar as global warming consciousness is concerned.

"..Ultimate in cool.."

Not by my standards.

i need to get the timing belt changed on my lexus.. im looking for some help with that.. anyone has any experience.. what are the recommended brands...? is GMB any good.. i found a GMB belt +tensioners + idler+ water pump on ebay.... shud i go for that..or is there another brand that goes with lexus better.. what and how much does the belt quality matter...i have very little experience with cars.. xcept driving:) .. ty in advance

Absent having accured in excess of 150,000 I will not consider replacing the timing belt in my '01 AWD RX300. The timing belt that was removed from my '92 LS at 153,000 miles looked as if it was ready for the NEXT 150,000 miles.

And the issue of replacing the water pump is nothing more than an "old wives tale". Long ago water pumps often failed due to failure of the internal seal protecting the "nose" bearing, the ONLY bearing, from failure due to coolant getting into it. To help prevent that all water pumps have a "weep" hole/opening so the small amounts of coolant getting past the seal can simply drain away onto the street. Basically the improvement in those seals over the years has resulted in such a low water pump failure rate that replacing them as a preventative maintainance measure is a waste.

I have to agree with you on both counts. I am sure my timing belt would have gone at least double what I had it replaced at. But Toyota had a coupon for about $320 and it was in the Lexus manual as required maintenance , so I caved in. But then again torqueing drive shaft bolts are also in the manual and who does that. At least Toyota was up front with me when I enquired about water pump and idler. I pretty much got the same answer from 2 Toyota service writers and 2 Toyota techs: "We see a lot of these engines and the WP and idler do not fail". They do however check them when replacing the TB. I bet a Lexus tech would have a different answer.

Lexus techs are most likely on a more agressive comp plan.

Maybe not.

The Lexus fleet, "installed base", is a lot lower that that of Toyota, a whole LOT lower, and the FLEET is undoubtedly a lot more reliable. So getting a broken Lexus into the shop at a dealer is like getting candy on an ordinary, non-special, day.

i bought some bad gas

Maybe not....

which fouled my spark plugs

Fueling with diesel, maybe.

but before i figured out the spark plugs were fouled i dumped a bunch of injector cleaner in the gas tank and

it didnt fix any thing.

Hardly ever does, placebo at best, catalyst destroyer at worse.

i replaced the plugs and it ran fine then the nest day i was driving around and i almost hit empty

Injector fluid didn't "mix", floated, like oil on water, on top of the gas...??

when my car started sputtering like it was out of gas.

What do you suppose the octane level of that injector cleaner fluid is..??

so i went home and i replaced my ignition wires, maf, air filter,oil,radiator flush and ignition coils. none of that fixed anything.i noticed the cats were glowing and the engine was randomly misfiring in random cylinders, so i tried to see if i left it running at 2000rpms for about 10min when the check engine light came on then the car stalled and then stoped working...

" i dumped a bunch of injector cleaner.."

A BUNCH...??!!

At 178,000 miles the catalyst might have very well been on its last "legs" and the BUNCH of injector cleaner may have very well pushed it over the edge.

It is not at all unusual at high mileage for the honeycomb structure of the catalyst to break apart and and begin clogging the exhaust outflow. It is HOWEVER pretty unusual for both to fail simultaneously. What do the directions on the injector cleaner container say about this possibility...??

My 1995 Lexus LS400 "gears down" when I let off the gas pedal.

Am I having transmission problems? 115k miles on odo...

Thanks for any suggestions!

Are you by any chance "coming" from a FWD or F/AWD "previous" car..??

Because of the additional safety aspects(***) of RWD or R/AWD it is not at all unusual for these to have a much more pronounced level of engine braking.

***If road conditions are such (snow..., ICE...!!) that a given level of engine compression braking would/might result in wheel lockup this can potentially be more life threatening in a FWD or F/AWD as opposed to RWD or R/AWD. Whereas with RWD or R/AWD, the effects of engine compression braking occurs, or occurs primarily (R/AWD), at the rear wheels and thus you still have directional, stearing control/correction, available.

So it is not at all unusual in my experience to encounter a significantly higher level of engine compression braking on a RWD platform vs FWD, given otherwise equal aspects, weight, etc.

You might also want to check and make sure your brake lights are not on constantly.

Your LS will ALWAYS unlock the torque converter the instant you touch the brakes (illuminate the brake lights) regardless of road speed.

Possibly last post for me on this car... I have someone wanting to buy it with a question- when looking at the car, on the outside of the headlights, are those actual lights or just there to complete the look of the headlights? They aren't turn signals (they're at the bottom) and they don't come on with the headlights or with the parking lights. It's been like this since I had the car, but I've never wondered if there were bulbs in there that were burned out. Thanks, now I'll be posting questions on my 2004 LS 430.

For some reason the factory selected/supplied/dealer parts bulbs for these corner lights have a very short life time, even the closely equivalent ones you can purchase at radio shack. My guess is that to much heat is being generated for the packaging.

I finally gave up and use a LED replacement that is not quite as bright and has only a slight bluish tint.

i need to get the timing belt changed on my lexus.. im looking for some help with that.. anyone has any experience.. what are the recommended brands...? is GMB any good.. i found a GMB belt +tensioners + idler+ water pump on ebay.... shud i go for that..or is there another brand that goes with lexus better.. what and how much does the belt quality matter...i have very little experience with cars.. xcept driving:) .. ty in advance

Absent having accured in excess of 150,000 I will not consider replacing the timing belt in my '01 AWD RX300. The timing belt that was removed from my '92 LS at 153,000 miles looked as if it was ready for the NEXT 150,000 miles.

And the issue of replacing the water pump is nothing more than an "old wives tale". Long ago water pumps often failed due to failure of the internal seal protecting the "nose" bearing, the ONLY bearing, from failure due to coolant getting into it. To help prevent that all water pumps have a "weep" hole/opening so the small amounts of coolant getting past the seal can simply drain away onto the street. Basically the improvement in those seals over the years has resulted in such a low water pump failure rate that replacing them as a preventative maintainance measure is a waste.

I own a 95 es 300 with 176,000 miles on it. It drives great and no mechanical problems. Under heavy load i get exhaust fumes coming through the ac vents. The recirc motor is functioning properly and it comes through the vents under any setting. The exhaust smell only comes through the vents under hard acceleration on the highway or when passing someone. When cruising it's fine, and there is no exhaust smell. I have replaced both exhaust manifolds with good used ones along with the doughnut gaskets. With the car in the air, and the car running, i have not been able to find an exhaust leak by running my hands across the exhaust tube, and there are no black areas along the under carriage or pipes that would lead me to think of an exhaust leak. I love the car and this one problem is annoying. Just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this problem or may know where prone exhaust leaks may develop on these vehicles. I forgot to mention that I have replaced all 4 engine and transmission mounts so i know there is no flexing of the exhaust pipes. Any helpful advice is greatlt appreciated.

My '92 LS400, even when new, would end up with exhaust fumes in the cabin with just applying enough extra power for a small incline. I finally discovered that using recirc mode was the culprit. If you switch to FRESH mode you will end up FORCING airflow out of the outlet flow ducts, cabin airflow exhauster ducts, in the trunk at the bottom of the rear quarter panels. For some reason, I suspect aerodynamics, you can get reverse exhaust flow through these ducts in the circumstances you describe.

My LS has a exhauster duct in each side and each has a lightweight rubber "flap" valve to prevent, mostly prevent reverse airflow. At 176,000 miles yours may have lost that ability.

Your LS uses an EPR valve to more closely regulate the boiling, evaporative rate, of the refrigerant and also to "quiet" the refrigerant evaporative process, less "noise" in the passenger cabin.

Most automotive A/C systems have the evaporator outlet completely open to the compressor inlet. Your LS has an EPR valve mounted right at the firewall. Be aware that with an EPR the low pressure in the compressor inlet line is often NOT at the same low pressure level as the evaporator outlet, outflow.

To get these pressures close enough to equal to get the guage pressure measurement system to "work" the EPR must be FULLY OPEN. To do that the evaporator cooling load must be as high as possible, HIGH blower, LOW temperature setting, FRESH intake, windows down and/or doors wide open.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That "surge" you get just before coming to a stop may very well one day save your life.

On a FWD or F/AWD vehicle it is potentially life-threatening to have a significant level of braking, engine compression braking or regen braking, should the roadbed traction be questionable. Ford now has a US patent that addresses this issue in their hybrids. Ford reduces the level of regenerative braking significnatly as/when the OAT approaches/reaches freezing levels. Additionally regenerative braking is disabled completely the instant ABS detects impending lockup during actual braking.

I wouldn't be very surprised at all if this is one of the cross-license issues and so, as a safety measure, Toyota/Lexus HSD vehicles are likely to do the same. thing

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The infamous "surge" is not that effect at all. I experience this myself only once in a great

while, usually when coming to a stop at a slight downhill angle. It isn't so much a surge as the

resistance of the regenerative braking releasing just before a stop. The result is that you

need to push harder than expected just before stopping.

I have only experienced this about three times in several months. I could see that if a driver

was distracted or not paying full attention you could easily end up hitting a bumper or stopping

further into a cross walk.

It is difficult to reproduce on command. It is fairly subtle.

/Steve

Yes, I have been tempted to refer to "it" as a "lurch" forward but the best decription is a "feeling as if being bumped slightly from behind."

Hey guys,

I had a friend work on my air. We replaced compressor with reman, expansion valve, ac drier, and condensor. First I had it checked for leaks. He checked with dye to make sure we had no leaks. Made sure we were clear of r12 and we are doing 134a.

For some reason, it is very cold in the evening when the temp is lower(60-70), but when its hot in the day(85- 100), it seems to not get cold enough to make the car comfortable. I turned the car from heat to cold and they both work, also seems you can here the blend door changing over.

He hot wired the condensor fans because they were not coming on so now they stay on when the car is on. Also when the air on, the car idles up a notch on the rpms noticebly.

Is this how it is suppose to work. And is there any suggestions to check to see what is wrong with the cool. With all new equipment i would think this thing should run magnificently.

You can see, watch, the blend door position, positioning, cycling, via watching the movement of the coolant control valve in the engine compartment at the top center of the firewall. There is a push/pull cable that comes through the firewall, non-visible end is attached to the blend vane/door servomotor.

I always remove the push/pull cable from the HOT water flow control valve during the summer and tie-wrap the water flow valve TIGHTLY shut.

Well, here's my .02:

Voice response - forget it

Bluetooth phonebook - random selection of one phone number per person, one at a time? What were they thinking.

GPS - I find it to be very good in general. Here's how to bypass the "safety" feature (at least in my '06): Menu/Audio. Touch upper left, lower left, upper left, lower left. On the screen that appears, hold "Bypass" until it turns black. Hit Back. Unfortunately, you have to do this every time you turn the car on. However, you can do it while the car is moving!

Mileage: Local roads I get 30 to 32 in warm weather. Highway I can get over 30 as well setting the speed control to 55 - 60. Having the bar graph on will teach you how to do this.

Annoyances: that "surge" you occasionally get as you roll to a stop! Rear wiper (but my dealer has replaced this free a couple of times). Front floor mat wearing a hole at 20K (once again - a whole free set from my dealer!)

That "surge" you get just before coming to a stop may very well one day save your life.

On a FWD or F/AWD vehicle it is potentially life-threatening to have a significant level of braking, engine compression braking or regen braking, should the roadbed traction be questionable. Ford now has a US patent that addresses this issue in their hybrids. Ford reduces the level of regenerative braking significnatly as/when the OAT approaches/reaches freezing levels. Additionally regenerative braking is disabled completely the instant ABS detects impending lockup during actual braking.

I wouldn't be very surprised at all if this is one of the cross-license issues and so, as a safety measure, Toyota/Lexus HSD vehicles are likely to do the same. thing

hi everyone,

i'm new here. i currently have a curt classIII hitch to be installed on my 04 rx330. i would like to install the wiring. i found this http://www.autoanything.com/towing/75A3875A0A0.aspx and i'm wondering if this will work. otherwise, i think i need to do some splicing or do i need the wires from lexus. can anyone help me figure this out?

I can't help you with wiring but how about some FREE towing advice..??

There is a design flaw in your transaxle that might result in premature failure if you plan to tow something over 500-1000 lbs, and even that in hilly terrain or with a heavy cabin load in addition.

With the advent of the RX330 Lexus adopted DBW to "protect the drive train" due to the design flaw.