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Awesome. Looks like I've got a date with an IS 300. Thanks for the feedback, guys!

Hi guys... Currently have a '97 ES300 and love it. 175k miles and still looking and riding great. Anyway, my wife's got a beat up '95 Avalon and for obvious reason's it's just time to get a new car. SO, I'm contemplating getting a used IS 300. One option is a 2003, private seller, 57k miles. Although I lucked out on my car going thru a private seller, I cringe at the idea of possibly buying a lemon (although I have no true reason to at this point since I haven't driven it yet). My question(s) to you all involve the following: are the '03 models reliable, are there any significant defect commonalities these cars have seen that would raise any flags, and lastly, is there anything I should bring as ammunition to the negotiation table, especially having 57k miles on it (i.e.-timing belt/water pump, although it's probably good for another 15k miles). Cliff's notes for the impatient: is this a reliable enough car that I could risk spending $15k on 'as-is'...??

As noted in topic title, I have a '97 es300 which has just short of 170k miles. For about a week it sounded like it was getting barely enough juice to start the ignition, but never died on me when driving. A couple days ago, the starter clicked on me, implying I needed a new battery. Replaced the battery, voltage read '14' after starting the car, which looked good. turned on the radio, headlights, and air conditioning and the voltage dropped to '12'. Bought a refurb'ed alternator, put that in. Same deal: Read '14', until I turned on all the extras, and it dropped to '12'. I narrowed it down to only having a problem when I turn on the air conditioning. The odd thing is, I can rev the engine up to around 3k plus and it will bump back up to '14' volts. But in idle it stays at '12'. Battery terminals also cleaned off. Help anyone?

Ended up being the IAC after all. Totally makes sense why it was giving me problems only when the engine was hot and when the moisture in the air was high. Hot engine made the carbon build-up gooey, causing the IAC door to stick to the chamber walls. Moist air also contributed to the stickiness, causing the same effect. Thanks for the help, everyone!

awesome, I will try that. Thanks, Stevie!

I have a '97 ES 300 that's been a tough nut to crack regarding some starting issues. When the car is cold (or has been sitting long enough for the engine to equal outside temperature), it starts like a gem. However, when I have been driving it long enough for the engine to heat up to normal temperatures, and stop the engine briefly, it acts as though there's no fuel injection. It will start, then die quickly. I then have to pump on the gas while starting it again to 'prep' it, idle it to about 2000 rpms for about 5 seconds then usually it's fine. But without giving it a little gas upon starting, it will not catch. It wants to fire up without any help, but doesn't quite get there. Although I have not been witness to it, my wife says it's ocassionally stalled on her when idling at a stop light, but neither of us have had any problems with it cutting out when driving. I've very recently changed the plugs, wires, and fuel filter, but there's been no difference in result. I've read a couple suggestions for similar problems, being the IAC Valve. Would cleaning it resolve this issue? I'm open and appreciative of any feedback. Thanks!