Gaugster

Gearheads rule! I have the IS250 AWD with and automatic tranny. The radiator is the newer style aluminum center with black plastic caps. Two electric cooling fans are used. I could not comment on its liquid capacity but it should be the same one that is used in the IS350. You might want to consider any available radiator from a Toyota 3.5L engine like the Camry and Avalon. As far as the exhaust, man I don’t know. Headers to an intermediate pipe capped off by a supertrapp coming out just behind the FRONT wheel would be cool. I can’t say if it would work but……… Seriously though, the 2GR-FSE is a great motor and it is very well tuned when used in the IS350. You have many opportunities to mis-match intake, exhaust etc… that will decrease the motors original horsepower. Good luck to you.

Believe it or not, I am familiar with that thread but I kind of disagree. Most of the votes for no warm-up are from people in warm climates like Florida, Texas etc… but most people do let the car warm-up for a short period of time. The thread is jaded in my opinion. I think they are mixing up cold winter warm-ups with extended idling or parade duty. It basically converges to the issue of not completely warming up a vehicle. If the oil doesn’t reach its full operating temperature then the moisture is not removed and the detergent properties of the oil are hampered yada, yada, yada. The vehicles owner’s manual states that you shouldn’t warm up a vehicle because it is a waist of gas and there is a potential to create a carbon monoxide hazard in the air. The engine does not care much. I guess we hijacked this “Smart Key” thread and beat a dead horse in the process………..Kick !Removed!!!!

Huh? I must have missed that advice somewhere along the way. I'm not sure that warming or not warming has any benefits. What are the reasons that warming up a car at idle can be detrimental? I am a firm believer that frequently turning the engine on and off is bad as there is no oil pressure when the engine first starts to turn. And of course not fully bringing a vehicle up to temperature can allow moisture to build up in the exhaust etc... However the warming up thing has escaped me. Just curious. Regards,

I just upgraded to the LG VX8550 from Verizon with Bluetooth. I selected this phone based in part on it having the best compatibility from the Lexus Bluetooth list that was referenced in a previous reply. I was able to link two phones to the ML/Nav system in my IS250. The complete phone books were also transferred over successfully as a second step. Basically you have to tell the vehicle to prepare for data transfer, next tell the phone to transfer the data. I made sure that all of my phone entries had the “1” prefix in the phone number as well. The voice command needs to be trained for each of the numbers that you wish to call. Looks doable but have not tried it yet. Just go the new phones over the holiday weekend. I am hoping that I can link my phone to my key fob just like the driver’s seat settings. That way, my wife’s phone and phone book will be automatically loaded when she is using the vehicle. However I have not read that this is possible so far but I am still looking in to it. Regards,

Hello, My 2007 IS250 has a series of buttons to the lower left of the steering column. Once in the TPMS function, I have to push and Hold the button for a few seconds. Then the vehcile will learn the new tire pressure values as a baseline. It won't fix an issue if the sensor has gone bad etc... Maybe it is similar?

I have the same car but with less miles. I have only a slight buzz that no one but me can hear. It seems to come from the air bag / horn assembly in the steering wheel. Basically I can make it stop if I put my hand on the center of the wheel. I also had a rattle that came from the front driver's head rest. It was clicked up a notch or two. The noise went away when I put it in its lowest postion so that it is resting on the seat back. Could it be cold weather related since all the noises happend recently? Just a though. Regards,

Hello all, I ride motorcycles as well as own a Lexus and have a few leather conditioners that I use for my motorcycle jacket. Of course, I understand that black biker leather can be much different then Automotive leather but...how different is it really? Lexol is one of the products and Skidmore's is the other. www.lexol.com & www.skidmores.com It seems that the Lexol product would work but I have not tested it out yet. Kind of afraid that it would change the color of the leather in my IS250. Skidmore's is an old product that has a cult following among bikers. Both are very oily but I tend to load it on when I am conditioning the jackets. What are your opinions about Lexol and Skidmore's? Thanks,

Thanks for the info. I have spent some time checking out the TireRack and found it very helpful. Cool, glad I could help. As a point of reference; I went with 17" rims with Dunlop Winter Sport 3D. The tires I originally wanted were out of stock so these seen to be well rated too. Lexus dealers seem to be charging about $120 - $145 to program the TPM sensor ID codes into the vehicle's system. This assumes that the wheels are already mounted on to the vehicle and all they have to do is program the sensors. My local Toyota dealer will do the same task for only $55! I am glad that I inquired with them. Ya gotta love the marketing of vehicles. I should be getting the wheels soon so I hope I do not run into any issues. Regards,

Get the TSB done for the front brake dust issue if you havn't already. You will get a new set of brake pads and either resurfaced or new rotors. Usually for free. If that doesn't fix the problem then it might be the tires. See the other thread that was just started. Regards,

Yes, I am seeing the same issue. I drive a 2007 Lexus IS 250 with Bridgestone Potenzas. I have the 18" wheels. It started before 10K miles and has gradually gotten worse (vibration and the sound of a smal helicopter). I'm currently at 15K miles and it is very annoying. The dealership indicated today that the noise is definitely the tires and recommended Michelin Pilot tires ($1000-1200 for a set of 4). They point out that the car's user manual indicates that the high performance tire life may be significantly less than 15K miles. Looks like it will be an expensive ride... Is everyone here talking about the 2WD or AWD models? It sounds like the 2WD model because of the reference to 18" rims. Just curious. I have the AWD model with 17's but with less then 6k miles. I believe that the IS user manual is refering to the 2006-07 models that were fitted with the Dunlop SP Sport 5000 tire. I have read that these tires would cup very badly in about 15k miles and need to be replaced. The tire compound is somewhat soft for an all-season tire and the wheel alignment of the IS (and many sporty cars) appears to be hard on tires. I hope that the Potenzas' for the AWD model don't need to be replaced at 15k but then again, there is no better feeling the a new set of tires!

Hello, The arrow buttons follow the radio present station numbers. I.e. 1 through 6. When I hit the up button the station will go from preset 2 to 3 for instance. Graphically, assuming that you have the Navigation option, the display would show a downward moment based on the layout of the radio soft buttons on the touch panel. Is this what you are talking about??? If yes, then it is normal. Regards,

Check out TireRack.com as well as consummerreports.org. Lots of ratings and user opinions etc… Bridgestone, Goodyear & Continental seem to be rated very well but any dedicated winter tire should be a huge benefit in bad weather. Most of the ratings seem to nit-pick the subtle differences so I would take the data with a grain of salt. I don’t endorse any one specifically but the information is very helpful. Personally, I have a full set of wheels with winter performance tires on the way to my home. It is a bit of a pain since these cars have TPMS. L8R

I agree with "albatross83". It’s bunk. The paddles are useless in the ISx50. I have used them for an occasional engine brake but that's it. I did not buy the car to go racing at the track so it doesn't bother me. They just have a coolness factory just like the ring lights on the speedometer and tachometer. I would propose that they were introduced on the '06 ISx50 just as a test bed for the IS-F. It is my understanding that the paddle shifters work much more effectively on the 8-Speed tranny used in the IS-F. Correct me if I am wrong but they appear to be chrome plated metal which would be more durable. The behavior is a combination of the software programming as well as the transmission itself. Perhaps future models of the ISx50 will have a software upgrade to change how the paddle shifters operate. Regards,

It might be too late to change your storry but....complain about having too much brake dust on the rims of your front wheels. Lexus will replace the brake pads and rotors for free because they have a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) that fixes excessive brake dust. It does not matter how many miles are on the vehicle but it also depends on the dealer as well. I don't think the TSIB covers the rotors..just the pads. However I have heard many dealers turn/resurface the rotors when the change the pads..but I don't think they are obliged to as part of the warranty work. Just about all cars now don't have much extra meat on the rotors..meaning they may only be able to be turned once..or perhaps not at all before they would fall below mfg specs. Are you getting quotes of $600 per rotor? I am assuming you are only talking about the fronts? Rears pads should wear forever as the fronts do 70% of the work. Ask the dealer what the minimum thickness is for the rotors..ask him what the current ones have now...if you still don't buy what he is saying..ask to see the measurement done by the technician. Yeh, you might be right about the rotors. They don't automatically replace them but as you stated, some dealers will cut the rotor if they think it is needed. However, I have not heard what happens if you have the TSB done but the rotors can't be used again. It is a long shot but I would push for replacements at the dealers expense. At the very least try to cut a deal on the cost of the rotors...

It might be too late to change your storry but....complain about having too much brake dust on the rims of your front wheels. Lexus will replace the brake pads and rotors for free because they have a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) that fixes excessive brake dust. It does not matter how many miles are on the vehicle but it also depends on the dealer as well.

There is a bunch of How-To threads out there to perform what is know as the "Nav hack" to get the DVD and other functions to work while the vehicle is moving. Some have great step-by-step pictures of how to remove the radio to gain access to the wiring. Do your homework on this and other IS250 sites and you should find enough information to wire up your Sat Radio blindfolded. (Well maybe that wouldn't be a good idea.) Oh yeh, and welcome to the site. Regards,

I don't what to make any endorsements but.... www.tirerack.com would be a very good guide to find out what wheels and tire sizes are recommended. Only alloy wheels seem to be available for our cars so the basic steel wheels are not an option. I am going to do almost the same thing as you. I have 17" stock and plan to buy a complete wheel set with winter tires. We get some snow here in Illinois but also have plenty of dry winters too. I am getting a 17" package because I want to minimize any performance loses. Don't forget that you will need another set of TPMS wheel sensors for your additional rims. Also, you might want to move this post to the 'wheels and tires' forum to get more exposure. Good luck

I think the major issue with the headlights is the factory aiming of the low beams. The stock settings are very low and it doesn’t show much of the road ahead. I assume that this is a conservative aiming so as not to blind oncoming traffic but I still find it poor. I asked my dealer to check it out and they said it was normal. So I adjusted the driver’s side HID up a little and it made a big improvement. I would like to go through and perform the factory settings and try to optimize the aiming but I just don't have the time right now. Many people have adjusted the HID headlight what to high without regard for other drivers. I have seen this on all types of vehicles. I am hoping to optimize the aiming and still keep from glaring oncoming traffic.

Yes, based on your descriptions, it is pretty clear now that 'Meesha' and I are talking about the same noise. It seems most noticeable to me when I have been driving the car and then stop at my destination. I use the 'auto' HVAC setting so usually the interior is at the correct temperature. The A/C fan is just blowing air at its lowest level. This is when I have heard/felt the buffeting effect. If your dealer finds a solution please share it with the rest of the list. I have not asked the dealer about this because I would be afraid that they would do more harm the good. Or maybe they would just look at me funny and claim that they have no idea what I am talking about. (like that never happens :chairshot: ) Try opening a window or the moon roof the next time it happens. It may make it stop. The sound is similar to some cars that buffet when only one window is open and the vehicle is driving at highway speeds. Only this is at a much lower level. Gaugster

You weren't asking me that question but I will answer anyway. I too have noticed the seat vent fan noise. The seat vent fan does make a slight hum when it is set to the cooling "Blue" setting. It makes the hum even at the lowest setting of one. The buffeting sound that I referenced seems to happen only when the A/C fan is turning at its lowest speed. It does not seem to matter if the air source is set to recirculate or bring in air from the outside. It is weird because the buffeting (if that's what it's called) comes and goes. I would not think that it would be related to the cabin filter because mine has recently been replaced but it is possible. Regards, Gaugster

I have a 2007 IS250 and don't recall any fan noise or squeak. However I hear (feel) a pressure buffeting effect sometime with the fan is on. This happens for any of the HVAC settings that I have used. I have also heard or felt the same thing is a loner IS250 so I think it is just inherent in the design. What is your noise like? Regards,

Thank you! the only version of 7.1 available at this time is current geneation 5 systems which are 2006 is350 and most 2007 2008. the update for gen 2/3 and generation 4 will not be out until the first of the year. they have to bring out the 5th generation soooner so they can put them in the 2008 new lexus. they get all these made first then they start producing 2008 7.1 upates for no longer in production gen 2 3 and 4 computers.they are all 7.1 but mostly incompatible with each other . so watch which 7.1 you are buying. if your lexus is 2006 or older the current 7.1 disc wont work. it is marked u32 at 2 oclock on the disc face. the 4th generation update will say u22 . the gen 2/3 will have part number 86841-33036. Related to the newer version of the Nav disc, I have heard that the 2008 Nav systems do not have the 'Idiot Screen' that you have to hit accept to gain access to the system. Would updating the Nav DVD for a 2007 system also eliminate this bothersome screen? Or are there separate DVD versions for each vehicle model year? Just curious

Yes, this has been discussed before. Generally I would say that they work but are somtimes difficult to install. I purchased a screensaver film from ebay called cleargaurd XP. I like it and it does not hamper the function of the touch screen or distort the image. I found it very difficult to install without getting air bubbles but maybe I just need a better technique. I only bought one screen saver and so far it has not needed to be replaced. However it you tend to scratch them then I would buy more than one at a time. I am sure that there are other brands available that will work just as good as the one I bought. Regards,

I posted this preivously in the IS250/350 forum. It addresses the player issues with DVD-A and ML. It would be interesting to try to burn MP3's in the DVD-A format on to a disc to see if it would play. **************************** Hello, I have had similar difficulties with different DVD-A discs. I have to say that I do very much like the ML system but I do not believe that it is "fully" compatible with DVD-A. This is kind of a mute point as DVD-A it not mainstream yet if ever. I am an audiophile / techno-snob from way back and have looked into DVD-A in great detail when it first hit the scene. The DVD-A media (i.e disc) will be recognized by the ML system. However the ML website only states that MP3, WMA, PCM, Dolby Digital 5.1 and DTS 5.1 data formats are compatible. This list excludes the DVD-A specific format of Meridian Lossless Packing (MLP) a.k.a Packed Pulse Code Modulation (PPCM) Don't worry, I don't really know what that means either. I just know it is different from DVD-V formats. http://www.marklevinsonlexus.com/overview.asp?model=is Hence the typical DVD-V formats (DD & DTS) sound great but the high resolution DVD-A (PPCM) is hit or miss. I have the Blue Man Group DVD-A but can only use the DD or DTS sound tracks. The PPCM sound track will play but the center channel is not audible and sometime I hear a cracking sound. Perhaps my radio is broke but I doubt it. I also have an Emerson Lake & Palmer DVD-A which seems to play the PPCM sound track just fine??? Both discs are displayed as PPCM 96kHz. I believe this indicates that it is a surround sound format. I would like to find a DVD-A disc recorded in PPCM 192kHz. This is a high resolution stereo format and may play well in the ML system. **************************

I don't have any direct experience with your car but it sounds like the input to your amp is being fed by a audio signal that does not adjust it volume. This is common with the ML systems. The low level inputs to the external OEM amp do not control the volume. Rather the OEM amp changes the volume by adjusting its own high level outputs via a separate control signal from the radio. In this case you would need to tap into the high level outputs of the OEM amp to have the volume function properly. A high level (Speaker wires) to low level (RCA Jacks) converter can be used to do this. The converters should be available at many electroncis stores. Good Luck