FastEd

Lexlover, I doubt you can see the starter bolts with the intake in place even using a mirror. Getting the starter off isn't particularly hard just slow. The bolts can be reached with a conventional boxend wrench once the intake is removed. You just can't get much of a swing on the wrench. In my case the solenoid gave a hearty single click when the key was turned to start but the engine didn't even try to turn over. I checked with a meter and I had plenty of battery voltage and it didn't drop much when the solenoid clicked. This seemed to fit with starter brush failure as described in this forum. I might add that the problem occurred suddenly with no warning, one morning it just wouldn't turn over. It had started great the evening before. I didn't tear down the old starter so I can't comment on how hard it is to change the brushes. As hard as it is to get to I felt it was better to just put in a rebuilt starter and forget it. I bought an intake gasket set which includes the manifold to head gaskets and the gasket between the manifold upper and lower halves, and a water outlet gasket that I couldn't figure out why I would need. I also bought two gaskets for the water connector that goes between the heads at the rear. And of course the starter. The part numbers are in an earlier post in this thread. Regards, Ed Just to repeat info that has been in other posts in this thread and others on starter problems, if you get multiple clicking when you turn the key to start you likely have a low battery or corroded connections. If you get a single solid click but no engine movement then it is the starter. Good Luck, Ed

"Hi Ed I am not young but have a strong back and have to do the dirty deed. Just wondered after you removed the intake and everything hooked to it, how long before the starter was removed. Thanks in advance." Lexlover, once the manifold is off and the starter is exposed it only takes maybe an hour to get the starter off. The reason it takes that long is the bolts come in from the rear and there is very little clearance between the bolt and the firewall. I used a box end wrench to remove the bolts but because of the clearance issues I could only get about 1/12 of a turn before having to remove and reset the wrench. I think that one of the newer ratcheting boxends that are available now might fit and make the job go faster. My ratcheting boxends are the old style and just too bulky to get into the space. It might be worth investing in a 14mm thin ratcheting boxend. Regards, Ed

"I was checking EPA website and they mentioned that this Duracool is a flammable material and not recommended for Auto use." It is true that Duracool is flammable, but the auto ignition temp is 1635 Deg F. R 134a is a couple of hundred degrees lower than that. Which is safer. Either won't burn until all the plastic parts on your engine have been consumed. Also there is less than a pound of the material in the whole system. As I said I have had really good luck with the stuff. Regards, Ed

Grand LS 4, Just wanted to thank you for your post. I just finished changing the starter on my '98 LS 400. If it hadn't been for your post I couldn't even have found the starter. A few tips for the next guy. 1. Have a 14mm flarenut wrench, the fuel line nut is soft and will round off with an open end. 2. Consider taking the top and fuel rails off the manifold. I didn't and it is difficult to horse the manifold off and on with all the stuff in the way. I am a big guy and managed with some difficulty. If you are smaller, have a helper or take it apart. The gasket sets come with the required gasket. 3. Have universal joints for your socket sets, and a good magnet pickup tool. You'll need them especially if you don't take the manifold apart. 4. Don't worry too much about all the electrical and vacuum connections you have to disconnect. All the electrical connectors are different so it only goes together one way. The vacuum lines fall right back into place if you only disconnect one end. Make sure they are disconnected though. I broke one nipple off and had to repair with a brass fitting. My car was out of service for about two weeks. Most of that time was researching and ordering parts and waiting for them to come. I think if you are young and have a strong back you could change the starter in eight hours with all parts available. Regards, Ed PS: I bought the starter from Advance Auto Parts web site, $149.95 plus core. Came in About 4 days and I returned the core at my local Advance for instant credit with no shipping required.

I have had good luck with a product called "Duracool" in R12 mobile systems. No conversion required, inexpensive and actually refrigerates better than R12. Can be added on top of R12. Google search will find online source. Regards, Ed