pachocco1

I took it to the dealer and they said they can't feel anything. I think they just don't know what it is.

Did you reference the TSI? (the link in my past post)

DATE: APRIL 26,1996

LS 400 DRIVESHAFT & DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT CHANGES Page 1 of 1

For improved driving smoothness when accelerating from approximately 35 m.p.h., the following production

changes have been made:

1. Rear drive shafts phase–matched between inboard and outboard joints.

2. Dynamic spring constant of differential rear mount changed.

3. Dynamic damper added to stabilizer bracket.

PART NUMBER INFORMATION:

REF: DRIVELINE/

DIFFERENTIAL

NO: DL002–96

MODEL: LS 400

PRODUCTION EFFECTIVE:

Starting VIN: JT8BH22F#T0036670

The reason I think it is driveshaft related is because the vibration only happens under heavy load or hard acceleration. If you are accelerating hard and then quickly leave off of the pedal it immediately goes away. If it were a tire out of balance or wheel out of round it would still be there. Plus I have had the tires balanced and rotated and there is no change.

I understand completely!

Here is what I replaced and why.

I also replaced the driveshaft. In the end, the car was perfect, but my wallet a good deal slimmer. Ultimately, my car got totaled soon after.

Best of luck.

The are the rear differential bushings, rear sub-frame bushings, and others I am probably missing.

Why are you certain it is drive shaft related? With your symptoms, I would look at a imbalanced wheel ( maybe you lost a weight) or a rim out of true (hit any curbs or really big pot holes lately).

I have been struggling to replace timing belt in my 91 LS400.

When I finished the job and I was pretty confident that I had done

a good job, but ... the timing was not right and car was moving

fairly ok but gear change was not smooth.

After three trial I made the timing good.

Car runs smooth.

But, alas, rear gear and neutral both move the car forward.

In Drive, the car runs smooth and everything OK.

Did I break the transmission? Any one can help me?

Interesting.

Have you tried every shift position(3,2,1,)? If so, are they appropriate?

My passenger side headlight received some damage from road debris. Aside from keeping out the elements that will reduce the lamp life, I can not pass Texas inspection in its current condition. I would like to take some suggestions for a low cost (compared to a new assembly ~$250 new or less used) solution before replacing.

Thanks in advance.

Pic 1

Pic 2

I had a similar problem of water entering the trunk and pooling in the spare tire well of my 1997 LS400. I was absolutely certain that it was a faulty trunk gasket. The gasket was removed and reinstalled with new adhesive. The problem returned. Further tests of spraying water from almost every possible angle at the trunk, tail lights, license plate screw holes produced no water accumulation in the trunk.

What seemed unrelated a few months later (this past December) ... I lost all power to the Lexus built-in mobile cellular phone. This caused the stereo to be permanently muted. Fuse #33 TEL 15A was blown and water was again in the spare tire well. A very short time after Fuse #3 ECU-IG 15A blew, causing the ABS warning light to come on (loss of ABS braking system) and the automatic transmission to be locked in PARK. There weresome other side effects as well.

Turns out (thanks to some clever technicians at my local Toyota dealer) that water was entering the trunk area through a defective floor plug on the passenger side of the trunk - they sprayed water into the rear passenger wheelwell and the water poured in. They re-sealed all of the trunk floor plugs with silicone and replaced the 2 blown fuses. Unfortunately, the accumulation of water over time and the 2 blown fuses led to my mobile cellular phone amplifier being damaged. The amplifier sits in the trunk on the passneger side.

I checked the trunk today and it is dry as a bone. But I am still looking for a replacement mobile cellular phone amplifier. If anyone knows of a 1997 LS400 in a salvage/wrecking yard, please let me know.

Because of my trunk leak in my 97(see above post), i took out my phone amp. It is a Motorola model 19120NAMSC. It is yours if you want it for shipping costs only.

I have had the same problem. Today, I decided to price a new "weatherstrip". It is $97 at Park place for a 97 LS. My leak has been occurring in just one corner near the back glass. So I took off the entire gasket and noticed that along that section (which I then marked), the gasket seal was significantly more pliable (flattened out) than the other remaining sections. The entire gasket is very much the same across the entire run but has many contour bends to fit the trunk. Upon closer scrutiny, the gasket did not appear to be molded in that shape. So, I stuck the gasket in very hot soapy water and cleaned it. I next cleaned the trunk gutter and the trunk lip the gasket was attached to. All were very dirty. After cleaning the gasket, I left it out in the sun to heat up a bit. All the contours were easily straightened out and the gasket became uniform throughout. There is some metal striping that runs inside the gasket for reinforcement and allows it to "clasp" to the trunk lip. In some places the gasket gap was a bit wider than normal so I cinched or clamped by hand back in to standard shape. Lastly, I re-installed the gasket but this time I put the marked (leaky section) on the bottom of the trunk lip near the tail-lights instead of back by the back glass. Several minutes of H20 hose testing ensued with successful results.

I noticed there is some sort of sticky glue-like stuff between the trunk lip where the weatherstrip attached to. I am wondering whether the glue-like stuff needs to be re-applied in order to enforce the tighter seal after cleaning up the lip ...

I found one of my leaks is at the passenger side taillight area where the weatherstip and the edge of the taillight case is overlapped a bit, the weatherstrip is supposed to be behind the taillight case. But mine is not which creates a gap and thus the leak. I think I made this mistake from changing the brake light bulb couple months ago.

On the other hand, I still see some water inside the trunk on the driver side. I didn't pull out all the weatherstrip since I want to figure out what's that glue-like stuff.

Thanks

-->Henry

I did not replace any of it nor did I try to remove any of it while cleaning debris and dirt from the lip areas. Be sure to rotate the gasket so it sits on a different area. (Top side was near the glass, now near the bumper) I was careful in the tail light area as well. I used a very small and blunt flat head screw driver to reseat the gasket in that area. I should have put both of these details in my prior post. My apologies. To date, I am still leak free after many rainy days and car washes.

I have had the same problem. Today, I decided to price a new "weatherstrip". It is $97 at Park place for a 97 LS. My leak has been occurring in just one corner near the back glass. So I took off the entire gasket and noticed that along that section (which I then marked), the gasket seal was significantly more pliable (flattened out) than the other remaining sections. The entire gasket is very much the same across the entire run but has many contour bends to fit the trunk. Upon closer scrutiny, the gasket did not appear to be molded in that shape. So, I stuck the gasket in very hot soapy water and cleaned it. I next cleaned the trunk gutter and the trunk lip the gasket was attached to. All were very dirty. After cleaning the gasket, I left it out in the sun to heat up a bit. All the contours were easily straightened out and the gasket became uniform throughout. There is some metal striping that runs inside the gasket for reinforcement and allows it to "clasp" to the trunk lip. In some places the gasket gap was a bit wider than normal so I cinched or clamped by hand back in to standard shape. Lastly, I re-installed the gasket but this time I put the marked (leaky section) on the bottom of the trunk lip near the tail-lights instead of back by the back glass. Several minutes of H20 hose testing ensued with successful results.

I replaced the theft deterring nuts with a regular nuts due to rounding issues, by looks alone , my stock rims are a theft deterent. : )

Here is the pdf for a 97.

The first is on-vehicle-repair.

The second is a full diagnostic algorithm.

ovr.pdf

preche.pdf

uh...i missed something....

The rotors are held on in a tempory manner with the small brass screws for safety. Otherwise they would fall off on full wheel removal. Upon tire installation, the lug nuts put restraining torque on both the wheel and rotors.

If your lugs are tight, then your rotors are tight. You can verify this while the car is on a lift with wheels on.

The question is how or whether you have checked to verify the rotors wobble with the wheels on.

Rotating?

I always thought if you gave steering and handling significance then you did NOT rotate your tires. (Esp given the longer last characteristics of modern tires)

If you wanted to emphasize tire longevity, then you rotate at recommended intervals.

This relies on the assumption that the car has no alignment or suspension issues of course.

You could also try Davenport. http://www.davenportmotorco.com/

I think your wheels are at fault as well. That repaired wheel, I would scrutinize the trueness of the repair. Have you try swapping it out with the spare to check for any difference? or moving it to another location to detect any change in vibration source?

I have replace the very same item for the very same problem. It was broken for at least a year until I replaced it. I noticed no drivability change once it was repaired. I think I spent over a c-note for it. Bosch part or something. They must be very proud.

I dont see anything on the diagram that sugguests that a bearing exists in the differential. If there is, it may be a non-replacable part. On that note of non-replacable parts, if one if the snap rings should fail, it may produce some play and / or damage the oil seals and cause a sound. Also, If you left the propeller shaft on it may be possible that the noise or play could be from the flexible coupling. It has a bushing that is located just before the differential.

Oh...as to your question...no there was not any other pages of information. Sorry.

ok

differen.pdf

preparat.pdf

removala.pdf

Try and get your code. Do a search for 'paperclip'.

On page AC-21 it shows the sight glass in the front of the radiator/condensor. It may be dirty and requiring cleaning to get a good visual if the R12/134a. Compressor removal and seal replacement is also documented. Have fun.

coolings.pdf

This too.

cip0420p.pdf

This may help.

insp.pdf

comp.pdf

I think your car needs an alignment.

insp.pdf

Well. I know they are a lot of salvage yards in Grand Prairie. My 91 LS was totaled recently (search my prior posts). It was put up for auction to the salvage yards & anybody else interested after the insurance acquired it. I supposed it and others like would likely stay local. I would start calling around.

I am 35. I am currently a Student, House Husband, and Dad. Last year or so, I quit my job at Motorola in Austin ( Now Freescale) to go back to school. I never completed my undergraduate studies. Transfered from UTAustin to UTDallas ( got married and had a kid ) and completed Business Administatrion study. I am going for Grad school to study accounting / MBA.

Rats rah rig rog!

Scooby Doo speak for 'thats a big dog'!

Nice work. You have some serious tenacity Blake.