Ray92es

My left side emergency brake cable has frozen for the second time. The Dealer replaced it a few years ago and broke off some mounts and used tyraps tied to the fuel lines to support it.

Anyways, in the process of replacing fuel lines, I saw the cable stuck and the brake shoes worn.

No one has the part in stock.

Has anyone ever had sucess in freeing up the cable and it lasting?

Does anyone have any spare brake shoes?

I gave up on repairing the cable and tried removing it. It is stuck at the front. Has anyone ever replaced their cable or know of instructions. It looks like the cable gets turned 90 degees and pos out but mine is not turning. I doesn't help the exhaust is in the way.

Well after days of wire brushing and PB Blaster, I got the old cable off. In trying to reinstall, I had to chisel off the mount nut by the axle stabilizer bar. New bolt and nut and next to the mount that goes next to the tank strap. Nothing left but half a bolt. Made a new clamp out of plumbers strapping. Will try tomorrow if the weather holds up.

Next is draining the gas tank. Anybody done this?

Found out reason turn signals are not working right. Like I said JDM headlights purchased off e-bay. Just thought i could install and plug in the harnesses. Found out theses headlights need and adapter harness just for the turn signals. JDM headlights use 168 bulbs in orange strip at the bottom of light for parking lights and the 1156 bulb just for turn signal. US headlights intergrate parking and turnsignal with a 1157 bulb. So now I have to locate an adapter wiring harness to make my turn signals work properly. Anyone with clue to where I could get these or had the same problem ? comments appreciated thanks

I've heard about the wiring difference. since you cannot get the harness, you'll have to modify yours. Can you swap the sockets to use a dual filiment bulb?

Maybe you can posts pictures of the 2 units

My left side emergency brake cable has frozen for the second time. The Dealer replaced it a few years ago and broke off some mounts and used tyraps tied to the fuel lines to support it.

Anyways, in the process of replacing fuel lines, I saw the cable stuck and the brake shoes worn.

No one has the part in stock.

Has anyone ever had suscess in freeing up the cable and it lasting?

Does anyone have any spare brake shoes?

I gave up on repairing the cable and tried removing it. It is stuck at the front. Has anyone ever replaced their cable or know of instructions. It lloks like the cable gets turned 90 degees and pos out but mine is not turning. I doesn't help the exhausrt is in the way.

Spend $20 replacing all the tail lights ;)

I had the problem and it was not the taillights. In fact i have all the original taillights.

It's far easier to look at the lights instead of switching them out

This is gonna sound stupid comming from me, but what's MC?? And where is it located?

Sorry, MC = Master Cylinder which is where you put the fluid in under the hood.

Which means? How can I solve this?

An easy way to tell if its MC or Emer. brake is to disconnect plug on MC. If it goes out its not the emer brake. Mine stuck for months, I had to tap the thing to get it loose. But then I found I had a leak in the brake line

Which means? How can I solve this?

An easy way to tell if its MC or Emer. brake is to disconnect plug on MC. If it goes out its not the emer brake. Mine stuck for months, I had to tap the thing to get it loose. But then I found I had a leak in the brake line

My left side emergency brake cable has frozen for the second time. The Dealer replaced it a few years ago and broke off some mounts and used tyraps tied to the fuel lines to support it.

Anyways, in the process of replacing fuel lines, I saw the cable stuck and the brake shoes worn.

No one has the part in stock.

Has anyone ever had suscess in freeing up the cable and it lasting?

Does anyone have any spare brake shoes?

The first problem is the brake light. Approximately two weeks ago it came on and has stayed on ever since. This was interesting because I had recently been using the emergency break while parking, so my immediate reaction was I did not fully dis-engage the emergency brake. I checked this, but not the problem. I then checked the reservoir under the hood and it was definately low. I bought Dot 3 and filled it up. However, the brake light never went off. Today, I checked it again, and it was low again (assuming I filled it all the way the first time). I filled it all the way up (this time I know I did), but again the brake light has not gone off. If I in fact filled it up the first time, this seems to indicate a leak. However, I can no signs under the car. In any case, I can't figure out why the brake light is not going out. Any ideas what is going on?

The second problem seems to have started about the same time as the first. On the highway I went to use the cruise control. The green light on the dashboard goes on "cruise" when I press the button, however, I cannot get the cruise control to work. I press down on the lever, but the cruise control does not engage. Any thoughts?

I had thought that the two problems might be connected because they happened about the same time and possibly the cause is the emergency brake needs adjusting to fully dis-engage. But, this would not answer why i needed to add brake fluid two times.

Did you fix it yet?

The low, dimmer, side of an 1157 draws about 0.8 amps. The high, brighter side, draws about 1.3 amps. 15 ohms and 10 ohms respectively. Due to low duty cycle you can probably get by with 5 watt resistor. And the load resistors MUST be in parallel with the lower wattage bulb. Resistor sets are available at autolumination.com

Why "MUST" they be hooked up in parallel? I just put a resistor in line(series), and it always worked fine.

Lets say the old bulb drew 1.3 amps at 12 volts and the new 168 draws only 0.3 amps (I'm guessing). In order for the turn signal flasher relay to work properly the resistor must draw an additional 1.0 amps and you can't increase current draw by adding resistance in series, only in parallel with the 168 bulb.

I think that there are more than 2 168 bulbs if the blinker is fast. Fast means more current draw. Means bigger or more bulbs. Adding resistance in series would then restore resistance and slow it down.

why is yellow top wrong? Worked great for me and most people who have gotten it for these vehicles.

The yellow top is more of a deep cycle battery than a starting battery

Thanks for all the responses. I guess I am SOL.....but I do have another related question.

On this model, when you unlock my doors and do stuff like load stuff in the car, it locks itself back up after about 30 seconds.......Unless you put the keys in the ignition. Is there a way to turn this feature OFF ?

My wife accidently locked our baby in the car the other day..... :o

No way I know to shut it off. I dislike that myself. If you put the key in the ignition, it won't lock. Tell your wife to keep her purse with the key outside it or leave the door open

Can't a higher amp alt. burn your dash lights out quicker???

A larger alt. will be able to provide more power, the lights will only use what they need. You will need larger power wire to a much higher capacity alt. to handle the extra power

Hey everybody,

Wanted to bring this thread up because i was am in need of a new alternator.

Been having with starting, (click click click click) jumps ok, then after it turns off it needs to be jumped again. Battery maintains enough juice to power interior lights and dash display, ect but not to start the car.

Now, Autozone diagnostic equipment displayed that my alternator has a bid diode. In addition, it also displayed that the battery was bad. The battery is a sulfuric acid, deep cycle, optima yellow top... and i felt as though the battery tester wouldnt be able to accurately diagnose a failure.

If the alternator has a bad diode, would it still be able to maintain a partial charge on the battery? enough to not be able to start the car but to power lights etc...?

Should i rely on these results?

the other question is about this highlander alternator. for people that have tried this, or know about it; how has the placement worked out, and how complicated does the rewiring become? my impression from scoping out the alternator was that its a plug n play unit with that branch connector.

Not so much fun, trying to get to classes and work, and also jumping the car everytime..... hope my luck doesnt run out.

Alt. have more than 1 diode, so it may be putting out a little bit of power. But the bottom line is to replace it. The yellow top is the wrong battery for most car applications. The red top or a standard battery is the way to go

You first two are completely lost.

Shayan your engine was designed not only to run no higher than 87octane, but it is so ungodly de-tuned you could most likely run 80 octane & still not trigger the knock feedback on the OEM engine.

Runniong any higher than 87 will do nothing but grossly increase emsssions, reduce power output, and reduce economy.

I second that. I have close to 200k and mine runs great. I only use 87. The manual states that you only need 87. Unless you're knocking, which the computer usually adjusts for, you need not going higher.

New to forum , need to know what going rate is for new brake lines. Is this a job I could do myself or mechanic? Was told they need replaced, are they connected to the gas lines in anyway? Heard gas tank needs to be dropped or moved to replace brake lines, is this true?

Thank you, looking for some advice.

Did you replace your lines yet?

ok here's the deal i have a 94 ES300 and i would like to put an optima yellow top but the standard one as it will come out cheaper for me. Although as the issue is their too short to reach all the way to be in the right place :chairshot: . So what would help would be

1. What gauge cable should i use and where can i get it done

2. Should i replace the whole wiring to the battery to (relay?) and alt

3. Other alternatives to extending te cables

i plan to get the ground cable replaced anyway

The yellow top is a deep cycle battery, not a car starter battery. The yellow is a good choise for a second trunk battery if you run a amp with the car shut off for extended periods

Had a rear-end accident last year and got pushed into the front. New front bumper and a re-conditioned bumper for the rear. The shop initially painted the bumpers, but the gold color didn't match to the fenders and quarter panels. Plus a paint crack was noticed at the rear bumper adjoining the quarter panel.

The shop took the car in and painted the bumpers the second time. The rear color is matching better, but the front color is still several shades off. I am aware the slight color disrepency between plastic and metal, but several shades off is not acceptable in my opinion. I also notice the paint is cracking on the rear bumper again.

1. Anyone run into this kind of issues after body work?

2. The paint crack is probably due to thick paint or too many layers. What's the standard practice for painting the bumpers?

3. Some shops don't sand the old paint off the bumpers before painting a new layer on. How many layers of paint on the bumper is still consider acceptable? I-Car standards??

Thank you for reading!!!

Is the shop trained for Lexus? Lexus paint is different than other cars as is Mercedes

I REALLY wouldn't tow anything with this car. I would be extremely concerned about premature transmision failure.

It not the same but I have a 92 that i use to pull my several small trailers. The heaviest one is used to move sand from a friends house to mine. I'm hauling a ton at a time. I've made the 30 mile trip dozens of times. No problems. Mostly it's used to move a box that won't or I don't want to put in the car.

I mounted an isolation controller in the trunk by the left taillight. I ran a tap off the fuseblock and ran a wire under the carpet into the trunk. Did not have to drill any holes that way.

Next time mention what year the car is .

It is normal for a ES 300 92-93 seem to rust the brake and fuel lines if it is not regularly cleaned and rustproofed.

It is usually much cheaper to bend your own lines to replace damaged ones and is rather simple to fabricate with a tool kit.

I did the rear brake line by hand as you have to remove the rear axle assembly to put in a preformed pipe. It would not be cheaper to do the fuel line if you add the cost of frostbite working on a car in the snow.

I bug people too about stating pertinent info about their car all the time but I though my moniker, Ray92es, gave it away.

I just found out that one of my fuel lines running under the driver seat has rusted through. Has anyone ever replaced these? Does anyone know what size the tubing is? That protective plastic cover seems to be a moisture trap causing leaks. I had to replace a brake line last year.

Purchased new tube from dealer, They run over $40 ea but I don't want to go through manualy bending the tubing in the winter.

Are youlooking to upgrade your lights or is the plastic housing fading away on you? If it is that, you can sand and buff that out saving a ton of money. yell at me if you want more details on how to do it...but it looks like you don't mind spending a few bucks to upgrade.

Have your headlights been polshed lately? This will do a world of difference. There are ton of threads on sanding and polishing headlights. I do mine every year

I just found out that one of my fuel lines running under the driver seat has rusted through. Has anyone ever replaced these? Does anyone know what size the tubing is? That protective plastic cover seems to be a moisture trap causing leaks. I had to replace a brake line last year.

Why do you want to go to a smaller tire? It's a lot shorter

Also read the FAQ

I read the FAQ's and know all about plus and minus sizing. My wheels are 16 X 7 with 205's. I could have gone to a larger diameter but the profile must go down. I drove some Es's with 17 and 18 but the tires were hard to find that were proper diameter so they ended up with a crappy ride. I have maybe 10mm adding both sides in the rear so any wider tire would rub. I tried some 225's but to clear the fender they were up against the strut. I also have seen a few cars that blistered their paint.

I would never use a sledge or any type of hammer.

Just using the bolt holes with a proper sized bolt should work fine.

if stripped then re tap then and you should be fine.

I thought of retapping but a tap needs to go past the end of the rotor to work due to the taper and there is the hub behind it. I don't think I can take off the hub assy with the rotor attached.

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I have a 1992 ES300 with 17x7 new style Avalon / Solara ( same fitment as 2007 ES ) 235/45-17, Factory wheels don't vibrate, but they look great and handles way better than the 15" Stocks

How do your wheels and tires fit. I changed mine to Borbet type T 16 X 7 with 205/60-16. I have no room for bigger tires without modifying wheel wells or suspension and keeping clearence.