Ray92es

Thanks for replying. I didn't mention the car is in another state or I would have just test fitted.

Going to smaller wheels does not change the speedometer at all. It is all in the tires. While the 330 has 17" wheels and 215 tires, by going to a 205/65 or 70 15 tire will keep the speedo pretty close  or exact depending on the brand.

I had a fist gen probe and it got t boned so I was going to give my alloys to a family member with a second gen but the change in rotor design made it impossible. I know the 300 and 330 use different rotors.

As far as your Outback, I know that if you have the 3.6R then the 16" won't fit due to the rotor size.

I have the original alloys from my 92 Es300. They are 15". My brother just got an 05 ES330 and really needs snow tires.  It has 17" wheels now. Will my 15" wheels fit? I know the bolt pattern is the same but that is not all to the equation. Has anyone put 15" wheels on their 330? And what size tires did you go with? I am thinking  205/65 or 70 15's.

My 93 ES 300 started overheating yesterday while driving in traffic. It gets hot while idling or driving slow and cools back down almost to normal while cruising at speed.

I checked coolant level. It is OK. And no leaks.

I checked fan. It is spinning at idle.

Could a bad thermostat cause this? I wold think if it was bad, it would also overheat at any speed?

Water pump bad? but not leaking at drainhole? Would this cause it to overheat only at slow speeds?

Thanks for any suggestions.

could be a bad water pump. Mine went at 175k. so it was pump and belt time. And yes, the pump does go bad without leaking. I don't know how long mine was going bad until that day I got stuck in traffic due to major accident. Depending on how early a 93 you have, it may be a hydraulic fan. In that case, check to see if your power steering fluid is low. The fan may spin at idle but not have enough fluid to spin at higher speeds.

My 92 has developed a vibration that comes on strong a 62mph. Going straight or going left it is there, change lanes to the right and it all goes away. Tires have been balanced and moved and problem persist. Nothing feels loose. Thinking it might be a cv joint as turning right would force left cv to assume power.

Anyone seen this or got ideas?

The rotors that come on the Lexus have a coating of some sort on the hub that many after market rotors do not. My OEM rotors still have a gray look with no rust. I have a backup set of Bendix that I used for a short time and the hub rusted immediately. My OEM rotors came with the car in 2000. You can get after market rotors with either a gray or black anodized coating if you look. They are a little more expensive. Most shops just put on what is cheapest.

This is the best solution for someone who have their brakes done. An anodized surface will outlast a painted surface. You could try spraying a rust converter on the hub protecting the wear surface from overspray.

Try swapping your tires to the front and see what happens. Could be tires or hubs

Do you have a check engine light? I assume not or you should have said it. So you should start looking at the air intake system, the hose could be cracked or you may have a vacuum leak

Friends,

My '94 ES still runs great, though it's getting more and more sluggish with acceleration, and the fuel consumption is increasing. I'm getting roughly 13mpg now city...that just MUST indicate a problem. Toysrme has suggested that an injector is stuck open, however checking those costs a pretty penny unfortunately.

I was thinking to have the plugs changed tomorrow for a meager $150 (NGK plugs) which I can indeed afford. They have not been changed for years and years to my knowledge. I had one O2 sensor replaced nine months ago (fuel consumption then was terrible too, but now worse), and the CEL is not illuminated. No hesitation, no stalling, but takes long to warm up and virtually no pedal-to-the-metal acceleration for the first five to ten minutes of driving in the morning.

So, is having the plugs changed the best next step to take to figure out why it's sucking so much gas...would I know if an injector was open by having them examine the plugs as they're taken out?

Your opinions are valued, thanks much. :)

Plugs are a few bucks apiece but a pita to change the back one. I don't think its your problem. You said it's worse cold so is you car warming up quickly enough.

If you are willing to throw $150 bucks at it, why not pay Lexus to hook it up and tell you whats wrong?

SKperformance Posted Yesterday, 11:01 PM

Keep the same model tire on all 4 corners it will keep it consitant in low traction applications.

So, with that said, one would think a person would want a better gripping tire on the front, and having them be the same all around isn't necessarily the best option. Is there validity to this line of thinking?

The current wisdom with different tires is that you put the best tires on the back o a fwd vehicle as the back tire cannot be controlled as the front one can. If you oversteer a fwd car, there isn't much you can do. Newer tires actually have less stopping ability in non precipitation situations.

If the car is AWD. Get 4 new tires and rotate them. The cost of repair if the drivetrain breaks would have paid for several sets of tires

I have a 92 also. Remember the 92 have less clearance than the later models so take anyone recommendation in mind. I run 205/60-16 on 16 X 7.5 wheels with a +40 offset. They fit with a few mm to spare. I need full suspension travel so I wont go to 215's. some narrower 215's might work fine but make sure the section width isn't too big. The handling improved dramatically so replacing your wheels is a good idea. Tirerack warns against anything wider than 205. This might have changed as I've had my wheels forever

Problem is fixed. Thanks for everyone's help. I found a message from aamir that tried a procedure for a 96. It was not working for him. It did not work for me either. but through a couple of variations, I tried opening my door and the alarm went off. Put in the key and turned on. Shut off, alarm off and key remote now works.

My oil light is coming on is this because the oil pump needs to be replaced??

Any other suggestions??

My car is also sluggish when shifting gear I do not know if this has something to do with the oil light.......

You did not say what year ES you have, but there are several things that can cause low oil pressure besides the pump. It also depends on when the light comes on. Is it right away or after a while. Is your car running hot? An OBDII engine throwing a code could cause a trans to behave differently

you mean batteries for the remote or car battery?

Batteries in both keys are good. Car battery is good also. Also will not work when car is running.

Whit smoke is normal with cold engines or if you have water in your fuel. A car that has a coolant leak emit white smoke often and you are always loosing coolant. If you coolant is not going down, you are not having a coolant leak and there isn't anything to worry about. If it is, get it fixed.

Change your plugs because they were due at 100,000. If you have a leak in a cyl. that plug will be different from the rest

Yeah, Engines don't slip. Trans and tires do. Have you changed your trans fluid in the last year? It should be done every 30k miles. Since it is on turns, if you are doing it on a slippery surface such as dirt or smooth concrete, it could be your tires

My emergency brake has siezed up on my 1992 es 300. It seems to only be locked up on the rear passenger side wheel only. How do you replace the E brake cable and how difficult is it?

If you saw my recent thread, you will see it is difficult if your car has been in the rust belt. I had a hard time loosening the eyelet over the exhaust. Funny thing was after the brake line and fuel lines were done, the exhaust leaked at the coverer output. I got a replacement gasket fron NAPA for $7 but the corrosion made too big a gap. Instead of buying 3 or 4, I asked the parts person for 1 that was a lot thicker and it was only $3 and 2 new bolts and nuts and that was done.

Back to your original question. If the Lexus Dealer hasn't done this for you before and screw it up, it may not be to bad.

Remove wheel and rotor. Remove brake "shoes" not pads. Remove bolt on backing plate. Remove the 2 clamps that hold the hose in place. Note that the clamps go over the metal part of the cable. Over the Exhaust pipe, turn the cable towards the side of the car that it is on so it is facinf the door. Pust the eyelet up and remove. Reverse procedutre to install. After rotor is on ,adjust star wheel until the rotor doesn't turn, reverse 8 clicks until it is loose. Make sure the brake is tight and then loose before you put the car down. Note that the brake shoes are only 2mm thick new. Unless you have worn them out to metal, you should be ok. I got the from the dealer for $58 because it was the second one. They said they did not warrenty the job more than 30 days but gave me a discouted price.

It took days of using the cable before it would really hold the car well. Getting out the stretching

My keys no longer lock and unlock the doors. The batteries are good. I do not have a volume knob. The remote switch is on. The doors locks work from the door keyhole and the interior switches.

The cars battery has been disconnected for awhile while I was replacing the fuel lines.

I did searches and found nothing for the early door locks with the 1 button on the side of them. I did try tuning to 94.9 and pressing the button but I did not hear anything but music but that is a working radio station in my area.

Dome light works. Any ideas

I am new to the Lexus forum, new to Lexus Ownership. All of my previous vehicles with remote entry had lights flash and horn / siren chirp.

I just picked up a 92 ES300, and the factory key opens the door locks, but does not seem to chirp the horn or the lights. Is this normal? or is this something I need to program?

If not, what are my options?

This is normal

Hi,

Lexus dealer charge me 100 USD/hr for the dianostic fee. I will have the result tomorrow. My question is if they charge us that much for the dianostic fee, do they sure that they have the right answers? What can we do if the problem still there after they fix the car? I often got my car fixed at a local mechanic so I don't have experience with this.

I have to see them tomorrow, your experience is very apreciate!

By the way, the problem with my car is "jerk when put the tranny in D with the cold engine." Post the problem here for a while, tried a couple things but did not help.

Thanks,

That is what they charge to put it on the machine. If something different than the usual suspect for that code is the cause and you bring it elsewhere for the service, I don't think they would feel obligated to troubleshoot further for free. I know someone who's car set off the code that usually means a loose gascap. but the problem was a leaky tank. After buying 2 new caps, he then learned from me that he had a leak in the tank. Funny thing was that he knew that but did not realize that the same code would show up.

I believe the problem is that the seats are coated so conditioning products don't work due to the inability of the leather to soak up the product.

ive checked all the brake pads, and my rotors feel pretty smooth. Im not sure what pads are installed, ive only had this car for about 4 months.

Check behind the pads for a metal plate between the pad backing and the piston. You can also get some stuff to put on the pistons where they meet the backing plates

My 92 has had the rear deck speaker grill fading for many years. They are starting to look off white. The interior is black so it has faded a lot. Has anyone recolored or replaced their grills? I guess I have to remove the rear parcel shelf to get them out to work on.

I have a 2000 es300. I am in the market for new tires and I am trying to decide between the Bridgestone Turanza LS-H and the Yokohama yk520. My criterea for this choice is noise, handling, treadware and price (in that order). Any thoughts? As far as price, I can get both sets for about the same price. Thanks.

I put Goodyear Eagle LS on my 92 size 205/60-16. I have them on t here 3 years now summer and winter driving. The are all around better than the Bridgestone Potenza Re 92 that I had on previously. More miles, better in snow and quiet. Being the LS, i thought that they would not handle well but they hold the road very well.

well my brakes on my 94 es300 have been squealing lately, but only for the first few brakings, so i decided to take off the tires and take a look. The pads look in pretty good condition and i just cannot find where the squeak is coming from, also it has a kind of grinding feel to them sometimes. what could be the problem?

How are your rotors? do they fee rough? Do you have the anti squeal pads installed? Di you also check the rear brakes?

Next is draining the gas tank. Anybody done this?

Yes. I have.

Thank goodness my cell phone was charged and my husband was in a good mood.

rosie

Emptied the tank. Daughter happy for the free gas in her car, Replaced fuel line.

Finally got parking brake cable replaced, and parking shoes installed and adjusted.

Did not help that it rained or snowed and I have the car out side.